Subjects -> TEXTILE INDUSTRIES AND FABRICS (Total: 41 journals)
    - CLOTHING TECHNOLOGY AND TRADE (6 journals)
    - TEXTILE INDUSTRIES AND FABRICS (35 journals)

CLOTHING TECHNOLOGY AND TRADE (6 journals)

Showing 1 - 4 of 4 Journals sorted by number of followers
Fashion Theory : The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture     Full-text available via subscription   (Followers: 27)
Textile : The Journal of Cloth and Culture     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 18)
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 13)
Dress     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 9)
Costume     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 8)
Critical Studies in Men's Fashion     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 4)
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 3)
Similar Journals
Journal Cover
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
Journal Prestige (SJR): 0.318
Citation Impact (citeScore): 1
Number of Followers: 3  
 
  Hybrid Journal Hybrid journal (It can contain Open Access articles)
ISSN (Print) 0955-6222 - ISSN (Online) 1758-5953
Published by Emerald Homepage  [360 journals]
  • Effects of air-suction guide structures on the condensing zone of
           pneumatic compact spinning with perforated drum

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: Murat Demir
      Abstract: The purpose of this study is to investigate the effects of air-suction slots geometry on the condensing zone of pneumatic compact spinning. This paper investigated the condensing zone of pneumatic compact spinning with perforated drum for different structures of air-inlet slot geometry with computational fluid dynamics. For this purpose, three air-suction guides with different air-slots were designed. To create the condensing zone for the numerical simulation, a suction insert and the perforated drum were also designed. Flow velocity components on the X, Y, and Z axes, static pressure distribution and the streamline diagram were used for comparative analysis. Designed air-suction guides were produced with a 3D printer and used for yarn production. Numerical simulation results showed that condensing effects were provided for all three types of air-suction guides and approaching air-slots on the suction guides resulted in greater flow components but may cause fluctuations. Experimental results also showed that actual flow velocity components (Z-axis) are effective on hairiness (H) properties of the yarn while assisting flow-velocity components are more effective on the evenness and tenacity properties of the yarn. This paper presents the numerical flow field simulation of compact spinning for different structures of air-suction guides with detailed measurements. To know the effects of air-suction guides on the condensing zone may be helpful to improve yarn properties. In addition, a 3D printer was used for the production of designed parts.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-06-17
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-08-2021-0113
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Production of CS-g-PNIPAM copolymer and stimuli responsive and
           antibacterial cotton fabric

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: Sena Demirbağ Genç , Sennur Alay-Aksoy
      Abstract: In this study, fabrication of polymer and cotton fabric exhibiting stimuli-responsive wetting and water vapor permeability features together with antibacterial activity was aimed. Temperature and pH-responsive poly(N-isopropyl acrylamide-graft-chitosan) (PNIPAM-g-CS) copolymer were produced via the free radical addition polymerization method and fixed to the cotton fabric using butane tetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) cross-linker by double-bath impregnation method. The chemical structure of the graft copolymer was characterized by Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) spectroscopy and H-Nuclear magnetic resonance (1H NMR) analyses. Thermo-responsive behavior of the fabric was investigated by wetting time and water uptake tests, contact angle measurement and surface energy calculation. Additionally, antibacterial activity of the fabric treated with copolymer was studied against S. aureus bacterium. PNIPAM-g-CS graft copolymer was synthesized successfully, which had lower critical solution temperature (LCST) value of 32 °C and exhibited thermo-responsive property. The treated fabrics exhibited hydrophilic character at temperatures below the LCST and hydrophobic character at temperatures above the LCST. It was found that polymer-coated fabric could have regulated the water vapor permeability by the change in its pore size and hydrophilicity depending on the temperature. Additionally, treated fabric displayed a pH-responsive water absorption behavior and strong antibacterial activity against S.aureus bacterium. In the study, it has been shown that the cotton fabrics can be fabricated which have antibacterial activity and capable of pH and temperature responsive smart moisture/water management by application of copolymer. It is thought that the fabric structures developed in the study will be promising in the production of medical textile structures where antibacterial activity and thermophysiological comfort are important.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-06-14
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-08-2021-0105
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Finite element modeling and simulating pilling of polyester
           fabric

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: Qi Xiao
      Abstract: The paper aims to build a finite element simulation model for pilling of polyester hairiness on the fabric to study the effects of hairiness performance on pilling and reveal pilling mechanisms. The finite element simulation model of pilling of polyester hairiness was established by ABAQUS. Polyester hairiness was treated as elastic thin rod, which was divided by two-node linear three-dimensional truss element. The effects of hairiness elastic modulus, hairiness friction coefficient and hairiness diameter on frictional dissipation energy, strain energy and kinetic energy produced by pilling have been studied. The analysis solution values were compared with the finite element simulation results, which was used to verify finite element simulation. The paper provides new insights about how to reveal pilling mechanisms of polyester hairiness with different performance. Comparing finite element simulation results with analysis solutions shows that the fitness is greater than 0.96, which verifies finite element simulation. Larger hairiness elastic modulus gives rise to higher friction dissipation energy and strain energy of hairiness but lower kinetic energy. Increasing friction coefficient enhances friction dissipation and strain energy of hairiness. However, kinetic energy decreases with the increase of friction coefficient. Hairiness diameter also has an important effect on hairiness entanglement and pilling. Increasing hairiness diameter can decrease friction dissipation energy but enhance strain energy and kinetic energy. Finite element simulation was verified by analysis solutions. The solutions include friction dissipation energy, strain energy and kinetic energy, which cannot measured b experiment. Therefore, researchers are encouraged to simulate pilling to obtain pilling grades, which be compared with experiment results. Pilling of polyester hairiness was simulated by ABAQUS. This method makes pilling process visualization, and pilling mechanisms was revealed from non-linear dynamics.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-06-14
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-10-2021-0148
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Effect of anisotropic abrasive damage on mass loss and ultimate tensile
           properties of the stretch denim fabric

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: Arunangshu Mukhopadhyay , Vivek Prasad Shaw
      Abstract: In recent times, stretch denim garments have become very popular amongst consumers as the garment is able to provide body fit and body comfort at the same time. The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of abrasion on the change in surface appearance, mass loss and ultimate tensile properties of the stretch denim fabric in different directions (warp, weft and biased). After abrading the fabrics in three different directions (warp, weft and biased), the loss in ultimate tensile properties, mass loss and surface appearance has been investigated in the respective directions of abrasion (warp, weft and biased). The study also encompasses the effect of different types of stretch yarn with varying levels of elastane content on such unidirectional abrasive damage. It is seen that with the same level of abrasion cycles, the fabric's response in terms of mass loss and loss in ultimate tensile properties are different in different directions. The mass loss due to abrasion in biased direction is found to be minimum. The loss in ultimate tensile properties due to abrasion was highest in the weft direction. It is also found that the higher mass loss due to abrasion does not always result in a greater loss in ultimate tensile properties. The composition and the structure of the weft yarn significantly affected the extent of the mass loss and the loss in ultimate tensile properties during abrasive damage. The impact of abrasive damage in terms of mass loss and loss in tensile strength along the different directions of denim fabric has not been explored till date. Abrasion of fabric can be done both in multi-direction (Lissajous motion) as well as in uni-direction (linear motion). The multidirectional abrasion provides a holistic or comprehensive idea of the fabric's response to the abrasive damage but does not take into consideration the fabric's anisotropic response to the abrasive damage. Most of the earlier investigation related to abrasive damage of denim fabric has been done in instruments where the motion of the abrader is multidirectional (Lissajous) in nature. For greater depth of understanding about the fabric performance under abrasive damage along the various direction (warp, weft and biased), unidirectional abrasion is conducted in this study.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-05-31
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-01-2022-0015
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • The influence of structure on the thermal properties of sleeping bags

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: Yu-Ying An , Guangbiao Xu , Hua Shen
      Abstract: To understand the thermal insulation of four common structures of sleeping bags and factors influencing the thermal insulation as well as the thermal comfort of people who use four kinds of sleeping bag structures. Four samples corresponding to four common sleeping bag structures were made and their thermal properties were investigated through a combination of objective instrument measurement and subjective human subject tests. The porosity of the samples and the length of the interlining had a main impact on the thermal resistances of the four sleeping bag structures. The thermal sensation ratings and the thermal resistances had good consistency. There was a strong correlation between human physiological parameters and thermal sensation evaluation. The male and female have significant differences in thermal sensation of different structures of sleeping bags. Instrument measurement and human subject tests were combined to study the thermal properties of sleeping bag structures, which had little attention in the past in research fields.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-05-31
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-11-2021-0161
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • A novel method of identifying sewing damage in single jersey fabrics

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: Esra Zeynep Yıldız , Oktay Pamuk
      Abstract: This paper suggests a new method for determining the sewing damage that occurs in single jersey fabrics based on the calculation of the needle hole area. This paper also aims to investigate the effects of material type, sewing parameters, and repeated washing cycles on sewing damage by using this method. Six knitted fabrics, differing in structure and raw material, were produced. Samples were sewn using different sewing parameters, and they were subjected to ten washing cycles. Values of average needle hole area, an objective indicator of sewing damage, were calculated before and after repeated washing cycles using image analysis software and were evaluated statistically. The results showed that the average needle hole area calculated via the image analysis software effectively estimates sewing damage as the results obtained were compatible with those stated in the literature. Furthermore, fabric type, sewing direction, sewing thread type, and needle size significantly affected the sewing damage. However, stitch density did not affect the sewing damage. When the effect of washing cycles was compared, it was seen that washing leads to an increase in sewing damage. A review of the existing literature shows that no previous study has evaluated sewing damage using image analysis software. This study proposes a novel objective method to determine the sewing damage that occurs in knitted fabrics.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-05-20
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-02-2021-0026
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Establishment and application of Whole Garment Knitted Skirt Template
           Library combining design and technology

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: Jianping Wang , Deyao Shen , Xiaofeng Yao , Wenqin Lu
      Abstract: Whole garment knitwear is one of the knitwear development trends in the foreseeable future for its advantages of environmental friendliness and wearing comfort. However, the development of new styles of the whole garment knitwear requires both fashion design and computer programming, which makes it time-consuming and difficult. In this paper, a whole garment knitted skirt template Library is introduced to solve this problem. The template library composes of silhouette module, design element module and parts shaping technology module. It was built based on a comprehensive investigation of design and technology. By adhering to the principle of similarity and reusability, the template library of whole garment knitted skirts was established through the innovative design and hierarchical classification of compressed patterns and package patterns. With the template library, more than 7.7 × 1025 package pattern templates can be generated through the permutation and combination of the package pattern templates of design elements and parts shaping technology. The results indicated that it can accelerate the design process and improve the design efficiency of new styles with the template library. This approach can also provide inspiration for the designers and realize rapid response and personalized customization of knitted garment production. In addition, the whole garment templates can be applied into constructing other types of clothing template libraries, such as jackets, pants, etc.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-05-03
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-02-2021-0014
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Development of wearable device designs for respiratory infection
           prevention

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: Bowei Hu , Sumin Koo
      Abstract: The aim of this study was to develop a smart wearable mask designed for the prevention of respiratory infectious diseases by understanding consumer's preferences in designs and functions of the smart wearable masks. To develop a smart mask design, a survey was conducted on Chinese consumers in their 20–40s and analyzed their mask wearing behaviors, preferences and caring aspects of masks. The collected data were analyzed to identify the demographic characteristics of the subjects surveyed by using the SPSS program, and technical statistical analysis was conducted. To identify differences in demographic characteristics, an independent samples t-test, one-way analysis of variance and Scheffe's ad hoc test were conducted. Based on the research results, design guidelines for wearable masks were defined, and four wearable mask designs were developed and presented in 2D and 3D images based on the design guidelines. There were significant differences among people with different backgrounds. It is significant that this research presents smart wearable mask design guidelines and designs through supplementation and improvement of existing mask. It is expected that this research provides basic empirical data for mask designs through the planning of smart wearable mask designs and surveys assessing consumer perceptions, attitudes and satisfaction.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-04-29
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-07-2021-0094
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Development of fashion recommendation system using collaborative deep
           learning

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: Gwang Han Lee , Sungmin Kim , Chang Kyu Park
      Abstract: The purpose of this study is to solve the cold start problem caused by the lack of evaluation information about the products. A recommendation system has been developed by using the image data of the clothing products, assuming that the user considers the visual characteristics importantly when purchasing fashion products. In order to evaluate the performance of the model developed in this study, it was compared with Random, Itempop, Matrix Factorization and Generalized Matrix Factorization models. The newly developed model was able to cope with the cold start problem better than other models. A hybrid recommendation system has been developed that combines the existing recommendation system with deep learning to effectively recommend fashion products considering the user's taste. This is the first research to improve the performance of fashion recommendation system using the deep learning model trained by the images of fashion products.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-04-27
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-11-2021-0172
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Chemical reaction intumescent flame retardant cotton fabric with flame
           retardancy and UV resistance prepared from phytic acid, tannic acid and
           diethylenetriamine

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: Xiang Zhou , Yankun Yin , Zhiyu Huang , Lu Fu , Luoxin Wang , Shaohua Chen , Hua Wang
      Abstract: In this study, an eco-friendly cotton fabric (CF) treatment method was proposed to induce anti-ultraviolet and flame retardant properties, and a new application of tannic acid (TA) and phytic acid (PA) in ultraviolet protection and flame retardant fabric was put forward. By combining diethylenetriamine, PA and TA on CF, a chemical reaction intumescent flame retardant CF with anti-ultraviolet and anti-flame retardance was developed. The flame retardant and ultraviolet resistance of CF were characterized by LOI, vertical combustion, cone calorimetry and ultraviolet resistance testing. SEM, XPS, FTIR and other tests were used to analyze the chemical composition, surface morphology and residual carbon after combustion of the CF, and it was confirmed that the modified CF has good ultraviolet resistance and flame retardant performance. In this study, an eco-friendly CF treatment method was proposed to induce anti-ultraviolet and flame retardant properties, and a new application of TA and PA in ultraviolet protection and flame retardant fabric was put forward.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-04-20
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-09-2021-0134
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • The selection of face mask as a personal protective equipment under the
           

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: Sait Gül , Çağlar Sivri , Ozan Rıdvan Aksu
      Abstract: The purpose of this paper is to determine which criteria should be taken into account while choosing face masks for pandemic times and to what extent their effects are. Nine face mask alternatives were evaluated based on the assessments of their performance with respect to twelve attributes. Seven experts were asked to evaluate the mask alternatives and the influences among attributes. In gathering expert judgments, spherical fuzzy number-based linguistic terms were utilized in the study to provide a more comprehensive representation domain to them. According to the results, the most important attributes are found as material type, cost and bacteria–virus protection level. The best face mask is N95, which is followed by respirators and surgical masks. The implication of the research is to evaluate face masks in terms of criteria such as physical, performance, protection and cost to decide on what basis they were selected as a personal protective equipment (PPE) based on expert assessments. This is useful in selection of the right face mask with optimum performance and provides guidance to the general public and profession specific groups for this purpose. The face mask companies might be also benefitted from the implications of the present study in their design and research and development (R&D) operations. The preference ranking of the face mask alternatives has not been studied in detail yet in the literature. Focusing on this issue, the present study provides a comprehensive assessment of the selection criteria of face masks in the pandemic era.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-04-19
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-07-2021-0095
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Mapping the research status and dynamic frontiers of functional clothing:
           a review via bibliometric and knowledge visualization

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: Shuyang Li , Shu Jiang , Miao Tian , Yun Su , Jun Li
      Abstract: The purpose of this paper is to gain an in-depth understanding of the research progress, hotspots and future trends in the field of functional clothing. The records of 4,153 pieces of literature related to functional clothing were retrieved from Web of Science by using a comprehensive retrieval strategy. A piece of software, CiteSpace was used as a tool to visualize the results of specific terms, such as author, institution and keyword. By analyzing the knowledge maps with several indicators, the intellectual basis and research fronts for the functional clothing domain could then be demonstrated. The result indicated that functional clothing was a popular research field, with approximately 500 papers published worldwide in 2020. Its main research area was material science and involved public environmental and occupational health, engineering, etc. showing the characteristic of multi-interdisciplinary. Textile Research Journal and International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology were the top two journals in this field. The USA, China, Australia, England and Germany have been active and frequently cooperating with each other. Donghua University, the Hong Kong Polytechnic University and NASA, with the largest number of publications, were identified as the main research drivers. According to the co-citation analysis, thermal stress, nanogenerator and electrospinning were the topics of most cited articles during the past 20 years. The findings identified smart clothing and protective clothing to be the research frontiers in the field of functional clothing, which deserved further study in the future. The outcomes offered an overview of the research status and future trends of the functional clothing field. It could not only provide scholars with convenience in identifying research hotspots and building potential cooperation in the follow-up research, but also assist beginners in searching core scholars and literature of great significance.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-04-18
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-10-2021-0151
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Analyzing the effect of the structural parameters of the fabric substrate
           layer on the textile FSS shielding properties

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: Mir Saeid Hesarian
      Abstract: In this article, the authors intended to analyze the shielding properties of a fabric frequency selective surface (FSS) structure to the basis of substrate fabric properties. For this purpose, the effect of the properties and structural parameters of the substrate fabric layer were analyzed on the shielding properties of the developed FSS. The experimental and theoretical evaluations were done at the frequency band of 1,805–1,880 MHz and computer simulation technology (CST) was used in modeling. In experiments were developed the FSS structures by different fabrics as the substrate layers and the copper as the patch cells. The shielding properties of these samples were measured experimentally by the developed setup. Confirming resonant frequencies, transmission coefficients, and the bandwidths results obtained from modeling and experiments show that the thickness, weight and interweaving structure parameters were affect the porosity of the substrate fabric. Porosity of the fabric moves the resonant frequency due to the changing of the dielectric properties of the fabric. Therefore, shielding properties of the FSS structure were affected by these parameters as the important characteristics of the substrate fabric. In addition, shielding properties of the samples (resonant frequencies and transmission coefficients) in different incident angles are not same in two modes of transverse electric and transfer magnetic. The experimental results suggest that the introduced flexible FSS structures are suitable for shielding applications in the proposed frequency band.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-03-30
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-12-2020-0197
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Development a novel hydro-vibration technology for the formation of hats
           from fabrics

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: Nikolay Kushevskiy , Nina Merezhko , Viktor Osyka , Volodimir Pavlenko , Alla Didyk , Olena Dombrovska , Eugen Kalinsky , Myroslav Kryvoruchko , Roman Chepok , Olena Shkvorets
      Abstract: The purpose of the work is development a novel of hydro-vibration technology for the formation of hats from fabrics, which will expand the functionalities of application of various fabrics. The work is based on a novel technology of forming hats from different fabrics with the use of liquid-active working environment (LAWE). This hydro-vibration technology is characterized by high efficiency, productivity, manufacturability and potential opportunities when compared to existing technologies. This allows expanding its range of applications and increase functionality. In the article, hydro-vibration technology is developed for the formation of hats from fabrics. As a result of the experiment, regression dependences of the shape stability coefficient on the formation factors having a close correlation were obtained. The performed optimization allowed determining the optimal values of technological parameters of the vibroforming process from fabrics: LAWE pressure 0.26 MPa, vibration frequency LAWE 4.3 Hz, forming time 74 s. The use of developed hydro-vibration technology has great practical significance in the textile industry. This technology increases labor productivity and reduces the cost of production of hats due to its high efficiency. Increased efficiency is provided by the use of special equipment, methods and optimal parameters of the hats formation. With sufficient refinement, the developed technology can be applied to other technological processes. Originality of the work is using liquid-actin working environment at vibroforming of heads of headdresses from fabrics. It is determined that the use of LAWE is effective in the formation of hats. To ensure maximum plasticization of textile fibers in the fabric of the part and increase the force field, it is developed a novel hydro-vibration technology of forming the heads of hats from fabrics.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-04-18
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-09-2021-0127
      Issue No: Vol. 34 , No. 4 (2022)
       
  • Research on the functional pattern-making of men's windbreaker

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: Chun Zhu , Kaixuan Liu , Kai Lin , Jianping Wang
      Abstract: The purpose of this paper is to achieve one garment with multiple uses, reduce waste and increase the fun of clothing design. Through the comparison of the structural design of windbreaker with the structural design of suit and other coats, find out the similarities and differences between them in the structure then provide a reliable theoretical basis for the combination and transformation of the two; and then start with the structural theory of men's windbreaker, from the detail structure and the structure. The optimization design of the overall structure, the application of mathematical theory to establish a regular structure design method, so that it can be split through the zipper combination into men's suits or other coats. Finally, from the perspective of technology, the functional transformation from men's windbreaker to men's casual suit and other coats is completed in terms of style, structure and technology. Through reasonable clothing structure design and invisible zipper layout, one type of clothing can be used as multiple types of clothing. A new fashion design method is proposed to minimize the waste of fashion design process.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-04-12
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-05-2021-0070
      Issue No: Vol. 34 , No. 4 (2022)
       
  • Inorganic additive-incorporated composites with infrared radiation
           performance for thermal management

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: Yingsi Wu , Kai Yang Thum , Hui Ting Yong , Aleksander Gora , Alfred Iing Yoong Tok , Vitali Lipik
      Abstract: Personal thermal management in functional textiles is in increasing demand for health care, outdoor activity and energy saving. Thus, developing new strategies is highly desired for radiative cooling and/or heating by manipulation of the transmissivity, reflectivity and absorptivity of the textiles within solar energy and human body heat radiation ranges. Inorganic additives including TiO2, Fe2O3, carbon black (CB), graphene and mica were incorporated into polymer films. The inorganic additives' full spectrum properties and thermal responses were comprehensively investigated. The CB composite film showed the highest absorptivity over the full solar to human body radiation spectrum. The mica-white (mica-w) (mica coated with TiO2) and mica-red (mica-r) (mica coated with Fe2O3) composites showed the lowest solar energy absorptivity and a strong body heat radiation reflectivity. Furthermore, according to composites' thermal responses to the simulated solar and human body radiations, CB and mica are promising for both cooling and heating when applied in dual-functional thermal management textiles. Research has limitation related the amount of additives which can be added to textile. When powder is added to polyester yarn, the amount is limited by 2–3%. When powder is added to the composite which is used for printing, the amount of powder is limited by 5%. A lot of apparel, especially sport apparel, contains prints. Decoration is one part of print application. Now, a lot of companies work under development of different additives, which provide additional properties to apparel. The closest targets for powder added to prints are cooling and heat retention. Quite often, inorganic additives possess dual properties: the inorganic additives may be heat reflective which his needed for heat retention, but may have high-thermal conductivity, which works well for cooling. Human body has complicated mechanism of heat exchange: convection, radiation and moisture evaporations play main role. The same additive may be cooling if there is a contact with skin but may be heating (IR reflective) if placed in the second or third layer. Thus, effect is needed to be studied first before real application. This work could provide a comprehensive guideline for the rational design and application of thermal management composite textile materials by revealing the full solar to human body radiation performance of a series of inorganic materials.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-04-12
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-02-2021-0024
      Issue No: Vol. 34 , No. 4 (2022)
       
  • Study on fibre reinforced composites developed by using recycled fibres
           from garment cut waste

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: C. Rajesh kumar , T. Vidya , J. Kanimozhi , D. Raja , J. Balaji , M. Jayakumari , C. Prakash
      Abstract: Recycled fibres used as reinforcements are obtained from garment cut wastes of cotton, polyester and cotton/polyester fabrics to develop these composites. These composites are developed by using Epoxy resin, Kaolinite, Polypropylene sheet as matrices. Reinforcements and matrices have been used in different compositions and combinations to develop these composites. The main advantages of this type of composites are to combine the different properties of different materials to obtain unique and high-performance material. Garment cut wastes from apparel industries are used for various applications in various industries. Normally, garment cut wastes and recycled fibres from garment cut wastes are used in textile, furniture, carpet, paper, automobile, construction and agricultural industries in low mechanical performance applications. In this research, composites are developed by using recycled fibres obtained from garment cut wastes as reinforcement and with different types of matrices. Technical properties like thickness, mass per unit area, Tensile strength, Flexural strength, Impact strength, Water absorbency and Scanning Electron Microscope of developed composites were tested and analyzed. The outcome of the results demonstrates that many of the composite proportions with different blend, reinforcement and matrcies show superior mechanical performances when compared with each other, and it can be recommended for many potential applications. The properties of composites are dependent on the different blend proportions of recycled fibres with reinforcement and matrices. Based on the result of tensile strength, polyester/cotton fibre reinforced composites show superior strength compared to other recycled fibre reinforced samples and it can be suitably tailored further by appropriate design of different lay-up angle and orientation with the number of different preformed layers of reinforcements to suit the intended applications.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-03-29
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-02-2022-0029
      Issue No: Vol. 34 , No. 4 (2022)
       
  • Fashionable sportswear working as a body measurement collecting tool

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: Jiayin Li , Sibei Xia , Andre J. West , Cynthia L. Istook
      Abstract: A two-dimensional (2D) body measurement system was implemented to study the application of sportswear design in measurement garment development. A total of 50 participants were recruited. The basic demographic information and sportswear preference data were collected through a survey to understand consumer preferences and acceptance of the new designs. The body measurements were collected through both the selected 2D measurement system and a commercial three-dimensional scanning booth to evaluate measurement accuracy. Finding the right size has been a long-existing problem for clothing consumers. Size problem is the most common reason for e-commerce returns and adds a high cost for retailers. One possible solution is to offer consumers an easy-to-use method that extracts accurate body measurements to be used for clothing size selection. The purpose of this research is to apply sportswear design elements on measurement garments to see if consumers’ interest in using the 2D measurement system can be increased without influencing the measurement accuracy. The results showed that the added design features increased consumers’ interest in using 2D body measuring technology without significantly influencing measurement accuracy. This research applied sportswear elements to convert a 2D measurement bodysuit to a fashionable clothing product. The solution resolved users’ privacy concerns and increased their acceptance and use of the technology. Other studies have not focused on using aesthetic features to improve the 2D measurement technology.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-03-14
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-07-2021-0090
      Issue No: Vol. 34 , No. 4 (2022)
       
  • A mixed faster R-CNN and positioning coordinates method for recognition of
           suit button arrangement with small sample sizes

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: Yanwen Yang , Yuping Jiang , Qingqi Zhang , Fengyuan Zou , Lei Du
      Abstract: It is an important style classification way to sort out suits according to the button arrangement. However, since the different dressing ways of suit cause the buttons to be easily occluded, the traditional identification methods are difficult to identify the details of suits, and the recognition accuracy is not ideal. The purpose of this paper is to solve the problem of fine-grained classification of suit by button arrangement. Taking men's suits as an example, a method of coordinate position discrimination algorithm combined faster region-based convolutional neural network (R-CNN) algorithm is proposed to achieve accurate batch classification of suit styles under different dressing modes. The detection algorithm of suit buttons proposed in this paper includes faster R-CNN algorithm and coordinate position discrimination algorithm. Firstly, a small sample base was established, which includes six suit styles in different dressing states. Secondly, buttons and buttonholes in the image were marked, and the image features were extracted by the residual network to identify the object. The anchors regression coordinates in the sample were obtained through convolution, pooling and other operations. Finally, the position coordinate relation of buttons and buttonholes was used to accurately judge and distinguish suit styles under different dressing ways, so as to eliminate the wrong results of direct classification by the network and achieve accurate classification. The experimental results show that this method could be used to accurately classify suits based on small samples. The recognition accuracy rate reaches 95.42%. It can effectively solve the problem of machine misjudgment of suit style due to the cover of buttons, which provides an effective method for the fine-grained classification of suit style. A method combining coordinate position discrimination algorithm with convolutional neural network was proposed for the first time to realize the fine-grained classification of suit style. It solves the problem of machine misreading, which is easily caused by buttons occluded in different suits.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-03-01
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-10-2020-0165
      Issue No: Vol. 34 , No. 4 (2022)
       
  • Enhancing mechanical and antibacterial performances of organic cotton
           materials with greenly synthesized colored silver nanoparticles

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: K. M. Faridul Hasan , Haona Wang , Sakil Mahmud , Ashraful Islam , Md. Ahsan Habib , Cao Genyang
      Abstract: Functionalization of organic cotton fabrics (OCFs) by in situ deposition of chitosan reduced-stabilized silver nanoparticles (AgNPs). No other toxic chemicals used to warrant an ecofriendly synthesis protocol. Human toxicity of silver systematically avoided to use as textile clothing. Primary colors (nearly-red, yellow and blue) were imparted on OCFs via localized surface plasmon resonance (LSPR) of AgNPs. Decent mechanical properties and laundering durability in terms of antibacterial/fastness test improved mechanical properties. Silver nanoparticles can be synthesized by using silver nitrate along with commercially available chitosan. Due to the surface LSPR property of silver nanoparticles, it exhibits versatile colors depending on the synthesizing procedures. The coloration occurs due to the electrostatic interaction between the AgNPs and chitosan-treated OCF. The nanotreated fabrics provide excellent mechanical properties with improved antibacterial effects. X-ray fluorescence (XRF) analysis quantifies the developed materials in the substrates. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) characterization indicates the appearance and morphologies of silver nanoparticles into the fabric surface after the coloration process. It proves that the treated cotton knit fabric exhibits the LSPR optical features of AgNPs. The antibacterial and mechanical properties confirm the improved functionality of products. Improved mechanical properties, antibacterial performances and coloration effects on organic cotton substrates in terms of chitosan-mediated nanosilver are not yet studied.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-03-01
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-05-2021-0071
      Issue No: Vol. 34 , No. 4 (2022)
       
  • Production of antimicrobial, natural, and reusable material for stitching
           eco-friendly, extra-protective face masks

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: Shama Sadaf , Komal Hassan , Ayesha Saeed , Zeeshan Ahmad , Hodaa Usama Abdus Samad
      Abstract: The COVID-19 pandemic has popularized wearing face masks for personal protection. However, the protection afforded by a mask is decreased if an individual accidently touches the outer surface of the mask and then touches other parts of their face. To overcome this problem, antimicrobial masks have become commercially available. However, many are disposable and/or made from synthetic antimicrobial agents which have a negative impact on the environment. The purpose of this study was to create material for stitching antimicrobial masks that are reusable and natural. The authors developed natural antimicrobial finishes from Azadirachata indica, Butea monosperma and Litchi chinensis leaves. The authors used biodegradable polyurethane binder and pad-dry-cure method to apply them on 100% cotton fabric. The authors used Fourier-transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) and Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) to confirm the application and ASTM E2149 to assess the efficacy and wash-resistance of the finish. Fabric treated with leaves of A. indica, B. monosperma and L. chinensis showed 80%, 100 and 100% antimicrobial activity, respectively. All fabrics were washed 25 times in home laundry cycles and maintained 100% of their antimicrobial effect. These findings highlight that B. monosperma and L. chinensis finishes on cotton fabric can be a used as a material for stitching antimicrobial, natural and reusable masks that provide more protection than traditional masks but do not pose the environmental concerns of disposable masks or synthetic finishes. This study can be furthered by performing more laundry cycles to determine if the finishes remain 100% effective beyond 25 cycles.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-02-28
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-05-2021-0075
      Issue No: Vol. 34 , No. 4 (2022)
       
  • Toward improved performance of reactive dyeing on cotton fabric using
           process sensitivity analysis

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: Ping Zhang , Wenju Zhu , Md. Yousuf Hossain , Shamima Sarker , Md. Nahid Pervez , Md. Ibrahim H. Mondal , Chao Yan , Yingjie Cai , Vincenzo Naddeo
      Abstract: The conventional textile dyeing process requires various operational characteristics, and determining the most reliable factor in dyeing performance has always been a challenge for the textile industry. Thus, the present paper aimed to evaluate the process sensitivity of C. I. Reactive Blue 194 dyeing of cotton fabric using a statistical technique. An L27 orthogonal array-based Taguchi's methodology was used with six parameters and three levels of each parameter. The signal-to-noise (S/N) ratio and analysis of variance were studied using total fixation efficiency (T%) as the response of the process sensitivity. Results showed that dyebath pH was the most influential factor on the process and total fixation efficiency (p-value = 0.00 and contribution percentage 45.03%), followed by dye-fixing temperature, dye mass, electrolyte concentration, dye-fixing time and material to liquor ratio. Overall this study provides a foundation for the determination of dyeing process sensitivity that will be useful in textile industries toward further development.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-02-02
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-03-2021-0035
      Issue No: Vol. 34 , No. 4 (2022)
       
  • Developing a basic pattern for a design based on the comparison of four
           basic pattern approaches

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: Ayumi Isaji , KyoungOk Kim , Masayuki Takatera
      Abstract: The authors investigate the effects of four basic bodice pattern shapes and developing methods on the appearances of ladies' fitted bodice design. The authors also clarify the preferred appearance among the four ladies' fitted bodice design as reported by Japanese university students and propose a pattern developing method of the preferred bodice design using the four basic bodices. Targeting a ladies' fitted bodice design with designated dimensions, four ladies' fitted bodices were manufactured using four types of basic bodice pattern and their development methods: BUNKA from Japan, ESMOD from France, ARMSTRONG from the United States, and ALDRICH from the United Kingdom. The appearances of the four fitted bodices were observed and explained in terms of ease and darts. The authors also conducted a sensory test regarding the preferred shirt appearance adopting a semantical difference method, for 15 female Japanese university students in their twenties. The authors propose a pattern developing method to design the preferred fitted bodice shape using different basic bodices considering the amount and allocation of ease and size and allocation of darts to front and back of the bodice. The appearances of the bodices were different even for the same fitted bodice design depending on the type of basic bodice pattern and its developing method. BUNKA had a slightly constricted silhouette at the waist and ESMOD had a straight silhouette and less constriction. ARMSTRONG had the most constricted silhouette and rounded hips and ALDRICH had a slightly constricted curve from the bust to the hips. The shape differences were strongly related to the amount of ease and the difference in waist darts between front and back of the bodice. The Japanese participants preferred fitted bodices that have a constricted silhouette from front and back views. From the side view, a straight line at the front and a constricted shape and emphasized hip at the back silhouette were preferred. By adjusting the allocations of ease and waist darts to front and back of the bodice, it was possible to design the preferred fitted bodice shape even with different basic pattern. It was found that the basic bodice pattern and developing method affect the final clothing. It is necessary to adjust the allocation of ease and darts to front and back of the bodice to construct clothing using different patternmaking methods. It was shown that it is more important to consider the patternmaking method than to select a suitable basic bodice pattern. It is necessary to understand the characteristics of allocation and amount of ease and the allocation and size of waist darts in both the basic patternmaking method and developing method. This approach is also useful in making an article of clothing with a shape required in other countries.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-02-01
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-03-2021-0038
      Issue No: Vol. 34 , No. 4 (2022)
       
  • Quadri-directional optical bending sensor using side-emitting POF
           integrated with wearable device technology in smart glove

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

      Authors: Miao-Tzu Lin
      Abstract: It is important to monitor wrist four direction movements (flexion, extension, adduction and abduction) for hand healthcare, wrist rehabilitation and upper limb exercise, and so on. The purpose of this study is to develop a quadri-directional optical bending sensor that integrated wearable device technology in a smart glove to detect wrist four direction movements. The quadri-directional optical bending sensor was designed with a microcontroller board, a Bluetooth wireless module, a side-emitting polymeric optical fibre (POF), an infrared light emitting diode and four phototransistors. A linear equation was deduced to calculate bending angle from detecting sensor value of Arduino microcontroller. The bending angle values could be seen by the smartphone screen, so the system has a good human–machine interface function. The light emission by macro-bending of the side-emitting POFs that the transmittance of the outer side is greater than the inner. The bending POFs lateral emission phenomenon integrated with phototransistors on the edge is suitable for the development of bending sensors. This study is to develop a novel quadri-directional optical bending sensor to replace two bi-direction sensors or four uni-direction sensors for wrist four direction movements monitoring.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-02-01
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-06-2021-0080
      Issue No: Vol. 34 , No. 4 (2022)
       
  • International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

       
 
JournalTOCs
School of Mathematical and Computer Sciences
Heriot-Watt University
Edinburgh, EH14 4AS, UK
Email: journaltocs@hw.ac.uk
Tel: +00 44 (0)131 4513762
 


Your IP address: 44.200.40.195
 
Home (Search)
API
About JournalTOCs
News (blog, publications)
JournalTOCs on Twitter   JournalTOCs on Facebook

JournalTOCs © 2009-