Subjects -> TEXTILE INDUSTRIES AND FABRICS (Total: 41 journals)
    - CLOTHING TECHNOLOGY AND TRADE (6 journals)
    - TEXTILE INDUSTRIES AND FABRICS (35 journals)

CLOTHING TECHNOLOGY AND TRADE (6 journals)

Showing 1 - 4 of 4 Journals sorted alphabetically
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 13)
Costume     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 8)
Critical Studies in Men's Fashion     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 3)
Dress     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 9)
Fashion Theory : The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture     Full-text available via subscription   (Followers: 25)
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 3)
Textile : The Journal of Cloth and Culture     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 18)
Similar Journals
Journal Cover
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
Journal Prestige (SJR): 0.318
Citation Impact (citeScore): 1
Number of Followers: 3  
 
  Hybrid Journal Hybrid journal (It can contain Open Access articles)
ISSN (Print) 0955-6222 - ISSN (Online) 1758-5953
Published by Emerald Homepage  [360 journals]
  • A novel method of identifying sewing damage in single jersey fabrics

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      Authors: Esra Zeynep Yıldız , Oktay Pamuk
      Abstract: This paper suggests a new method for determining the sewing damage that occurs in single jersey fabrics based on the calculation of the needle hole area. This paper also aims to investigate the effects of material type, sewing parameters, and repeated washing cycles on sewing damage by using this method. Six knitted fabrics, differing in structure and raw material, were produced. Samples were sewn using different sewing parameters, and they were subjected to ten washing cycles. Values of average needle hole area, an objective indicator of sewing damage, were calculated before and after repeated washing cycles using image analysis software and were evaluated statistically. The results showed that the average needle hole area calculated via the image analysis software effectively estimates sewing damage as the results obtained were compatible with those stated in the literature. Furthermore, fabric type, sewing direction, sewing thread type, and needle size significantly affected the sewing damage. However, stitch density did not affect the sewing damage. When the effect of washing cycles was compared, it was seen that washing leads to an increase in sewing damage. A review of the existing literature shows that no previous study has evaluated sewing damage using image analysis software. This study proposes a novel objective method to determine the sewing damage that occurs in knitted fabrics.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-05-20
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-02-2021-0026
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Establishment and application of Whole Garment Knitted Skirt Template
           Library combining design and technology

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      Authors: Jianping Wang , Deyao Shen , Xiaofeng Yao , Wenqin Lu
      Abstract: Whole garment knitwear is one of the knitwear development trends in the foreseeable future for its advantages of environmental friendliness and wearing comfort. However, the development of new styles of the whole garment knitwear requires both fashion design and computer programming, which makes it time-consuming and difficult. In this paper, a whole garment knitted skirt template Library is introduced to solve this problem. The template library composes of silhouette module, design element module and parts shaping technology module. It was built based on a comprehensive investigation of design and technology. By adhering to the principle of similarity and reusability, the template library of whole garment knitted skirts was established through the innovative design and hierarchical classification of compressed patterns and package patterns. With the template library, more than 7.7 × 1025 package pattern templates can be generated through the permutation and combination of the package pattern templates of design elements and parts shaping technology. The results indicated that it can accelerate the design process and improve the design efficiency of new styles with the template library. This approach can also provide inspiration for the designers and realize rapid response and personalized customization of knitted garment production. In addition, the whole garment templates can be applied into constructing other types of clothing template libraries, such as jackets, pants, etc.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-05-03
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-02-2021-0014
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Development of wearable device designs for respiratory infection
           prevention

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      Authors: Bowei Hu , Sumin Koo
      Abstract: The aim of this study was to develop a smart wearable mask designed for the prevention of respiratory infectious diseases by understanding consumer's preferences in designs and functions of the smart wearable masks. To develop a smart mask design, a survey was conducted on Chinese consumers in their 20–40s and analyzed their mask wearing behaviors, preferences and caring aspects of masks. The collected data were analyzed to identify the demographic characteristics of the subjects surveyed by using the SPSS program, and technical statistical analysis was conducted. To identify differences in demographic characteristics, an independent samples t-test, one-way analysis of variance and Scheffe's ad hoc test were conducted. Based on the research results, design guidelines for wearable masks were defined, and four wearable mask designs were developed and presented in 2D and 3D images based on the design guidelines. There were significant differences among people with different backgrounds. It is significant that this research presents smart wearable mask design guidelines and designs through supplementation and improvement of existing mask. It is expected that this research provides basic empirical data for mask designs through the planning of smart wearable mask designs and surveys assessing consumer perceptions, attitudes and satisfaction.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-04-29
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-07-2021-0094
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Development of fashion recommendation system using collaborative deep
           learning

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      Authors: Gwang Han Lee , Sungmin Kim , Chang Kyu Park
      Abstract: The purpose of this study is to solve the cold start problem caused by the lack of evaluation information about the products. A recommendation system has been developed by using the image data of the clothing products, assuming that the user considers the visual characteristics importantly when purchasing fashion products. In order to evaluate the performance of the model developed in this study, it was compared with Random, Itempop, Matrix Factorization and Generalized Matrix Factorization models. The newly developed model was able to cope with the cold start problem better than other models. A hybrid recommendation system has been developed that combines the existing recommendation system with deep learning to effectively recommend fashion products considering the user's taste. This is the first research to improve the performance of fashion recommendation system using the deep learning model trained by the images of fashion products.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-04-27
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-11-2021-0172
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Chemical reaction intumescent flame retardant cotton fabric with flame
           retardancy and UV resistance prepared from phytic acid, tannic acid and
           diethylenetriamine

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      Authors: Xiang Zhou , Yankun Yin , Zhiyu Huang , Lu Fu , Luoxin Wang , Shaohua Chen , Hua Wang
      Abstract: In this study, an eco-friendly cotton fabric (CF) treatment method was proposed to induce anti-ultraviolet and flame retardant properties, and a new application of tannic acid (TA) and phytic acid (PA) in ultraviolet protection and flame retardant fabric was put forward. By combining diethylenetriamine, PA and TA on CF, a chemical reaction intumescent flame retardant CF with anti-ultraviolet and anti-flame retardance was developed. The flame retardant and ultraviolet resistance of CF were characterized by LOI, vertical combustion, cone calorimetry and ultraviolet resistance testing. SEM, XPS, FTIR and other tests were used to analyze the chemical composition, surface morphology and residual carbon after combustion of the CF, and it was confirmed that the modified CF has good ultraviolet resistance and flame retardant performance. In this study, an eco-friendly CF treatment method was proposed to induce anti-ultraviolet and flame retardant properties, and a new application of TA and PA in ultraviolet protection and flame retardant fabric was put forward.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-04-20
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-09-2021-0134
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • The selection of face mask as a personal protective equipment under the
           

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      Authors: Sait Gül , Çağlar Sivri , Ozan Rıdvan Aksu
      Abstract: The purpose of this paper is to determine which criteria should be taken into account while choosing face masks for pandemic times and to what extent their effects are. Nine face mask alternatives were evaluated based on the assessments of their performance with respect to twelve attributes. Seven experts were asked to evaluate the mask alternatives and the influences among attributes. In gathering expert judgments, spherical fuzzy number-based linguistic terms were utilized in the study to provide a more comprehensive representation domain to them. According to the results, the most important attributes are found as material type, cost and bacteria–virus protection level. The best face mask is N95, which is followed by respirators and surgical masks. The implication of the research is to evaluate face masks in terms of criteria such as physical, performance, protection and cost to decide on what basis they were selected as a personal protective equipment (PPE) based on expert assessments. This is useful in selection of the right face mask with optimum performance and provides guidance to the general public and profession specific groups for this purpose. The face mask companies might be also benefitted from the implications of the present study in their design and research and development (R&D) operations. The preference ranking of the face mask alternatives has not been studied in detail yet in the literature. Focusing on this issue, the present study provides a comprehensive assessment of the selection criteria of face masks in the pandemic era.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-04-19
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-07-2021-0095
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Development a novel hydro-vibration technology for the formation of hats
           from fabrics

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      Authors: Nikolay Kushevskiy , Nina Merezhko , Viktor Osyka , Volodimir Pavlenko , Alla Didyk , Olena Dombrovska , Eugen Kalinsky , Myroslav Kryvoruchko , Roman Chepok , Olena Shkvorets
      Abstract: The purpose of the work is development a novel of hydro-vibration technology for the formation of hats from fabrics, which will expand the functionalities of application of various fabrics. The work is based on a novel technology of forming hats from different fabrics with the use of liquid-active working environment (LAWE). This hydro-vibration technology is characterized by high efficiency, productivity, manufacturability and potential opportunities when compared to existing technologies. This allows expanding its range of applications and increase functionality. In the article, hydro-vibration technology is developed for the formation of hats from fabrics. As a result of the experiment, regression dependences of the shape stability coefficient on the formation factors having a close correlation were obtained. The performed optimization allowed determining the optimal values of technological parameters of the vibroforming process from fabrics: LAWE pressure 0.26 MPa, vibration frequency LAWE 4.3 Hz, forming time 74 s. The use of developed hydro-vibration technology has great practical significance in the textile industry. This technology increases labor productivity and reduces the cost of production of hats due to its high efficiency. Increased efficiency is provided by the use of special equipment, methods and optimal parameters of the hats formation. With sufficient refinement, the developed technology can be applied to other technological processes. Originality of the work is using liquid-actin working environment at vibroforming of heads of headdresses from fabrics. It is determined that the use of LAWE is effective in the formation of hats. To ensure maximum plasticization of textile fibers in the fabric of the part and increase the force field, it is developed a novel hydro-vibration technology of forming the heads of hats from fabrics.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-04-18
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-09-2021-0127
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Mapping the research status and dynamic frontiers of functional clothing:
           a review via bibliometric and knowledge visualization

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      Authors: Shuyang Li , Shu Jiang , Miao Tian , Yun Su , Jun Li
      Abstract: The purpose of this paper is to gain an in-depth understanding of the research progress, hotspots and future trends in the field of functional clothing. The records of 4,153 pieces of literature related to functional clothing were retrieved from Web of Science by using a comprehensive retrieval strategy. A piece of software, CiteSpace was used as a tool to visualize the results of specific terms, such as author, institution and keyword. By analyzing the knowledge maps with several indicators, the intellectual basis and research fronts for the functional clothing domain could then be demonstrated. The result indicated that functional clothing was a popular research field, with approximately 500 papers published worldwide in 2020. Its main research area was material science and involved public environmental and occupational health, engineering, etc. showing the characteristic of multi-interdisciplinary. Textile Research Journal and International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology were the top two journals in this field. The USA, China, Australia, England and Germany have been active and frequently cooperating with each other. Donghua University, the Hong Kong Polytechnic University and NASA, with the largest number of publications, were identified as the main research drivers. According to the co-citation analysis, thermal stress, nanogenerator and electrospinning were the topics of most cited articles during the past 20 years. The findings identified smart clothing and protective clothing to be the research frontiers in the field of functional clothing, which deserved further study in the future. The outcomes offered an overview of the research status and future trends of the functional clothing field. It could not only provide scholars with convenience in identifying research hotspots and building potential cooperation in the follow-up research, but also assist beginners in searching core scholars and literature of great significance.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-04-18
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-10-2021-0151
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Inorganic additive-incorporated composites with infrared radiation
           performance for thermal management

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      Authors: Yingsi Wu , Kai Yang Thum , Hui Ting Yong , Aleksander Gora , Alfred Iing Yoong Tok , Vitali Lipik
      Abstract: Personal thermal management in functional textiles is in increasing demand for health care, outdoor activity and energy saving. Thus, developing new strategies is highly desired for radiative cooling and/or heating by manipulation of the transmissivity, reflectivity and absorptivity of the textiles within solar energy and human body heat radiation ranges. Inorganic additives including TiO2, Fe2O3, carbon black (CB), graphene and mica were incorporated into polymer films. The inorganic additives' full spectrum properties and thermal responses were comprehensively investigated. The CB composite film showed the highest absorptivity over the full solar to human body radiation spectrum. The mica-white (mica-w) (mica coated with TiO2) and mica-red (mica-r) (mica coated with Fe2O3) composites showed the lowest solar energy absorptivity and a strong body heat radiation reflectivity. Furthermore, according to composites' thermal responses to the simulated solar and human body radiations, CB and mica are promising for both cooling and heating when applied in dual-functional thermal management textiles. Research has limitation related the amount of additives which can be added to textile. When powder is added to polyester yarn, the amount is limited by 2–3%. When powder is added to the composite which is used for printing, the amount of powder is limited by 5%. A lot of apparel, especially sport apparel, contains prints. Decoration is one part of print application. Now, a lot of companies work under development of different additives, which provide additional properties to apparel. The closest targets for powder added to prints are cooling and heat retention. Quite often, inorganic additives possess dual properties: the inorganic additives may be heat reflective which his needed for heat retention, but may have high-thermal conductivity, which works well for cooling. Human body has complicated mechanism of heat exchange: convection, radiation and moisture evaporations play main role. The same additive may be cooling if there is a contact with skin but may be heating (IR reflective) if placed in the second or third layer. Thus, effect is needed to be studied first before real application. This work could provide a comprehensive guideline for the rational design and application of thermal management composite textile materials by revealing the full solar to human body radiation performance of a series of inorganic materials.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-04-12
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-02-2021-0024
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Research on the functional pattern-making of men's windbreaker

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      Authors: Chun Zhu , Kaixuan Liu , Kai Lin , Jianping Wang
      Abstract: The purpose of this paper is to achieve one garment with multiple uses, reduce waste and increase the fun of clothing design. Through the comparison of the structural design of windbreaker with the structural design of suit and other coats, find out the similarities and differences between them in the structure then provide a reliable theoretical basis for the combination and transformation of the two; and then start with the structural theory of men's windbreaker, from the detail structure and the structure. The optimization design of the overall structure, the application of mathematical theory to establish a regular structure design method, so that it can be split through the zipper combination into men's suits or other coats. Finally, from the perspective of technology, the functional transformation from men's windbreaker to men's casual suit and other coats is completed in terms of style, structure and technology. Through reasonable clothing structure design and invisible zipper layout, one type of clothing can be used as multiple types of clothing. A new fashion design method is proposed to minimize the waste of fashion design process.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-04-12
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-05-2021-0070
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Analyzing the effect of the structural parameters of the fabric substrate
           layer on the textile FSS shielding properties

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      Authors: Mir Saeid Hesarian
      Abstract: In this article, the authors intended to analyze the shielding properties of a fabric frequency selective surface (FSS) structure to the basis of substrate fabric properties. For this purpose, the effect of the properties and structural parameters of the substrate fabric layer were analyzed on the shielding properties of the developed FSS. The experimental and theoretical evaluations were done at the frequency band of 1,805–1,880 MHz and computer simulation technology (CST) was used in modeling. In experiments were developed the FSS structures by different fabrics as the substrate layers and the copper as the patch cells. The shielding properties of these samples were measured experimentally by the developed setup. Confirming resonant frequencies, transmission coefficients, and the bandwidths results obtained from modeling and experiments show that the thickness, weight and interweaving structure parameters were affect the porosity of the substrate fabric. Porosity of the fabric moves the resonant frequency due to the changing of the dielectric properties of the fabric. Therefore, shielding properties of the FSS structure were affected by these parameters as the important characteristics of the substrate fabric. In addition, shielding properties of the samples (resonant frequencies and transmission coefficients) in different incident angles are not same in two modes of transverse electric and transfer magnetic. The experimental results suggest that the introduced flexible FSS structures are suitable for shielding applications in the proposed frequency band.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-03-30
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-12-2020-0197
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Study on fibre reinforced composites developed by using recycled fibres
           from garment cut waste

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      Authors: C. Rajesh kumar , T. Vidya , J. Kanimozhi , D. Raja , J. Balaji , M. Jayakumari , C. Prakash
      Abstract: Recycled fibres used as reinforcements are obtained from garment cut wastes of cotton, polyester and cotton/polyester fabrics to develop these composites. These composites are developed by using Epoxy resin, Kaolinite, Polypropylene sheet as matrices. Reinforcements and matrices have been used in different compositions and combinations to develop these composites. The main advantages of this type of composites are to combine the different properties of different materials to obtain unique and high-performance material. Garment cut wastes from apparel industries are used for various applications in various industries. Normally, garment cut wastes and recycled fibres from garment cut wastes are used in textile, furniture, carpet, paper, automobile, construction and agricultural industries in low mechanical performance applications. In this research, composites are developed by using recycled fibres obtained from garment cut wastes as reinforcement and with different types of matrices. Technical properties like thickness, mass per unit area, Tensile strength, Flexural strength, Impact strength, Water absorbency and Scanning Electron Microscope of developed composites were tested and analyzed. The outcome of the results demonstrates that many of the composite proportions with different blend, reinforcement and matrcies show superior mechanical performances when compared with each other, and it can be recommended for many potential applications. The properties of composites are dependent on the different blend proportions of recycled fibres with reinforcement and matrices. Based on the result of tensile strength, polyester/cotton fibre reinforced composites show superior strength compared to other recycled fibre reinforced samples and it can be suitably tailored further by appropriate design of different lay-up angle and orientation with the number of different preformed layers of reinforcements to suit the intended applications.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-03-29
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-02-2022-0029
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Fashionable sportswear working as a body measurement collecting tool

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      Authors: Jiayin Li , Sibei Xia , Andre J. West , Cynthia L. Istook
      Abstract: A two-dimensional (2D) body measurement system was implemented to study the application of sportswear design in measurement garment development. A total of 50 participants were recruited. The basic demographic information and sportswear preference data were collected through a survey to understand consumer preferences and acceptance of the new designs. The body measurements were collected through both the selected 2D measurement system and a commercial three-dimensional scanning booth to evaluate measurement accuracy. Finding the right size has been a long-existing problem for clothing consumers. Size problem is the most common reason for e-commerce returns and adds a high cost for retailers. One possible solution is to offer consumers an easy-to-use method that extracts accurate body measurements to be used for clothing size selection. The purpose of this research is to apply sportswear design elements on measurement garments to see if consumers’ interest in using the 2D measurement system can be increased without influencing the measurement accuracy. The results showed that the added design features increased consumers’ interest in using 2D body measuring technology without significantly influencing measurement accuracy. This research applied sportswear elements to convert a 2D measurement bodysuit to a fashionable clothing product. The solution resolved users’ privacy concerns and increased their acceptance and use of the technology. Other studies have not focused on using aesthetic features to improve the 2D measurement technology.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-03-14
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-07-2021-0090
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Enhancing mechanical and antibacterial performances of organic cotton
           materials with greenly synthesized colored silver nanoparticles

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      Authors: K. M. Faridul Hasan , Haona Wang , Sakil Mahmud , Ashraful Islam , Md. Ahsan Habib , Cao Genyang
      Abstract: Functionalization of organic cotton fabrics (OCFs) by in situ deposition of chitosan reduced-stabilized silver nanoparticles (AgNPs). No other toxic chemicals used to warrant an ecofriendly synthesis protocol. Human toxicity of silver systematically avoided to use as textile clothing. Primary colors (nearly-red, yellow and blue) were imparted on OCFs via localized surface plasmon resonance (LSPR) of AgNPs. Decent mechanical properties and laundering durability in terms of antibacterial/fastness test improved mechanical properties. Silver nanoparticles can be synthesized by using silver nitrate along with commercially available chitosan. Due to the surface LSPR property of silver nanoparticles, it exhibits versatile colors depending on the synthesizing procedures. The coloration occurs due to the electrostatic interaction between the AgNPs and chitosan-treated OCF. The nanotreated fabrics provide excellent mechanical properties with improved antibacterial effects. X-ray fluorescence (XRF) analysis quantifies the developed materials in the substrates. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) characterization indicates the appearance and morphologies of silver nanoparticles into the fabric surface after the coloration process. It proves that the treated cotton knit fabric exhibits the LSPR optical features of AgNPs. The antibacterial and mechanical properties confirm the improved functionality of products. Improved mechanical properties, antibacterial performances and coloration effects on organic cotton substrates in terms of chitosan-mediated nanosilver are not yet studied.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-03-01
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-05-2021-0071
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • A mixed faster R-CNN and positioning coordinates method for recognition of
           suit button arrangement with small sample sizes

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      Authors: Yanwen Yang , Yuping Jiang , Qingqi Zhang , Fengyuan Zou , Lei Du
      Abstract: It is an important style classification way to sort out suits according to the button arrangement. However, since the different dressing ways of suit cause the buttons to be easily occluded, the traditional identification methods are difficult to identify the details of suits, and the recognition accuracy is not ideal. The purpose of this paper is to solve the problem of fine-grained classification of suit by button arrangement. Taking men's suits as an example, a method of coordinate position discrimination algorithm combined faster region-based convolutional neural network (R-CNN) algorithm is proposed to achieve accurate batch classification of suit styles under different dressing modes. The detection algorithm of suit buttons proposed in this paper includes faster R-CNN algorithm and coordinate position discrimination algorithm. Firstly, a small sample base was established, which includes six suit styles in different dressing states. Secondly, buttons and buttonholes in the image were marked, and the image features were extracted by the residual network to identify the object. The anchors regression coordinates in the sample were obtained through convolution, pooling and other operations. Finally, the position coordinate relation of buttons and buttonholes was used to accurately judge and distinguish suit styles under different dressing ways, so as to eliminate the wrong results of direct classification by the network and achieve accurate classification. The experimental results show that this method could be used to accurately classify suits based on small samples. The recognition accuracy rate reaches 95.42%. It can effectively solve the problem of machine misjudgment of suit style due to the cover of buttons, which provides an effective method for the fine-grained classification of suit style. A method combining coordinate position discrimination algorithm with convolutional neural network was proposed for the first time to realize the fine-grained classification of suit style. It solves the problem of machine misreading, which is easily caused by buttons occluded in different suits.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-03-01
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-10-2020-0165
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Production of antimicrobial, natural, and reusable material for stitching
           eco-friendly, extra-protective face masks

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      Authors: Shama Sadaf , Komal Hassan , Ayesha Saeed , Zeeshan Ahmad , Hodaa Usama Abdus Samad
      Abstract: The COVID-19 pandemic has popularized wearing face masks for personal protection. However, the protection afforded by a mask is decreased if an individual accidently touches the outer surface of the mask and then touches other parts of their face. To overcome this problem, antimicrobial masks have become commercially available. However, many are disposable and/or made from synthetic antimicrobial agents which have a negative impact on the environment. The purpose of this study was to create material for stitching antimicrobial masks that are reusable and natural. The authors developed natural antimicrobial finishes from Azadirachata indica, Butea monosperma and Litchi chinensis leaves. The authors used biodegradable polyurethane binder and pad-dry-cure method to apply them on 100% cotton fabric. The authors used Fourier-transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) and Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) to confirm the application and ASTM E2149 to assess the efficacy and wash-resistance of the finish. Fabric treated with leaves of A. indica, B. monosperma and L. chinensis showed 80%, 100 and 100% antimicrobial activity, respectively. All fabrics were washed 25 times in home laundry cycles and maintained 100% of their antimicrobial effect. These findings highlight that B. monosperma and L. chinensis finishes on cotton fabric can be a used as a material for stitching antimicrobial, natural and reusable masks that provide more protection than traditional masks but do not pose the environmental concerns of disposable masks or synthetic finishes. This study can be furthered by performing more laundry cycles to determine if the finishes remain 100% effective beyond 25 cycles.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-02-28
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-05-2021-0075
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Toward improved performance of reactive dyeing on cotton fabric using
           process sensitivity analysis

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      Authors: Ping Zhang , Wenju Zhu , Md. Yousuf Hossain , Shamima Sarker , Md. Nahid Pervez , Md. Ibrahim H. Mondal , Chao Yan , Yingjie Cai , Vincenzo Naddeo
      Abstract: The conventional textile dyeing process requires various operational characteristics, and determining the most reliable factor in dyeing performance has always been a challenge for the textile industry. Thus, the present paper aimed to evaluate the process sensitivity of C. I. Reactive Blue 194 dyeing of cotton fabric using a statistical technique. An L27 orthogonal array-based Taguchi's methodology was used with six parameters and three levels of each parameter. The signal-to-noise (S/N) ratio and analysis of variance were studied using total fixation efficiency (T%) as the response of the process sensitivity. Results showed that dyebath pH was the most influential factor on the process and total fixation efficiency (p-value = 0.00 and contribution percentage 45.03%), followed by dye-fixing temperature, dye mass, electrolyte concentration, dye-fixing time and material to liquor ratio. Overall this study provides a foundation for the determination of dyeing process sensitivity that will be useful in textile industries toward further development.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-02-02
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-03-2021-0035
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Developing a basic pattern for a design based on the comparison of four
           basic pattern approaches

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      Authors: Ayumi Isaji , KyoungOk Kim , Masayuki Takatera
      Abstract: The authors investigate the effects of four basic bodice pattern shapes and developing methods on the appearances of ladies' fitted bodice design. The authors also clarify the preferred appearance among the four ladies' fitted bodice design as reported by Japanese university students and propose a pattern developing method of the preferred bodice design using the four basic bodices. Targeting a ladies' fitted bodice design with designated dimensions, four ladies' fitted bodices were manufactured using four types of basic bodice pattern and their development methods: BUNKA from Japan, ESMOD from France, ARMSTRONG from the United States, and ALDRICH from the United Kingdom. The appearances of the four fitted bodices were observed and explained in terms of ease and darts. The authors also conducted a sensory test regarding the preferred shirt appearance adopting a semantical difference method, for 15 female Japanese university students in their twenties. The authors propose a pattern developing method to design the preferred fitted bodice shape using different basic bodices considering the amount and allocation of ease and size and allocation of darts to front and back of the bodice. The appearances of the bodices were different even for the same fitted bodice design depending on the type of basic bodice pattern and its developing method. BUNKA had a slightly constricted silhouette at the waist and ESMOD had a straight silhouette and less constriction. ARMSTRONG had the most constricted silhouette and rounded hips and ALDRICH had a slightly constricted curve from the bust to the hips. The shape differences were strongly related to the amount of ease and the difference in waist darts between front and back of the bodice. The Japanese participants preferred fitted bodices that have a constricted silhouette from front and back views. From the side view, a straight line at the front and a constricted shape and emphasized hip at the back silhouette were preferred. By adjusting the allocations of ease and waist darts to front and back of the bodice, it was possible to design the preferred fitted bodice shape even with different basic pattern. It was found that the basic bodice pattern and developing method affect the final clothing. It is necessary to adjust the allocation of ease and darts to front and back of the bodice to construct clothing using different patternmaking methods. It was shown that it is more important to consider the patternmaking method than to select a suitable basic bodice pattern. It is necessary to understand the characteristics of allocation and amount of ease and the allocation and size of waist darts in both the basic patternmaking method and developing method. This approach is also useful in making an article of clothing with a shape required in other countries.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-02-01
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-03-2021-0038
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Quadri-directional optical bending sensor using side-emitting POF
           integrated with wearable device technology in smart glove

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      Authors: Miao-Tzu Lin
      Abstract: It is important to monitor wrist four direction movements (flexion, extension, adduction and abduction) for hand healthcare, wrist rehabilitation and upper limb exercise, and so on. The purpose of this study is to develop a quadri-directional optical bending sensor that integrated wearable device technology in a smart glove to detect wrist four direction movements. The quadri-directional optical bending sensor was designed with a microcontroller board, a Bluetooth wireless module, a side-emitting polymeric optical fibre (POF), an infrared light emitting diode and four phototransistors. A linear equation was deduced to calculate bending angle from detecting sensor value of Arduino microcontroller. The bending angle values could be seen by the smartphone screen, so the system has a good human–machine interface function. The light emission by macro-bending of the side-emitting POFs that the transmittance of the outer side is greater than the inner. The bending POFs lateral emission phenomenon integrated with phototransistors on the edge is suitable for the development of bending sensors. This study is to develop a novel quadri-directional optical bending sensor to replace two bi-direction sensors or four uni-direction sensors for wrist four direction movements monitoring.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-02-01
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-06-2021-0080
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print , No. ahead-of-print (2022)
       
  • Development and application of numerical model of thermal sensors for
           thermal protective clothing evaluation based on CFD simulation

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      Authors: Yuqi Tang , Zhantong Mao , Anni Li , Lina Zhai
      Abstract: The purpose of this paper is to study the heat transfer effect of copper sensor and skin simulant on skin. For the sensor, the physical and mathematical models of the thermal sensors were used to obtain the definite conditions in the heat transfer process of the sensor, and the heat transfer models of the two sensors were developed and solved respectively by using ANSYS WORKBENCH 19.0 software. The simulation results were compared with the experimental test results. For the skin, the numerical model of the skin model was developed and calculated. Finally, the heat transfer simulation performance of the two sensors was analyzed. It is concluded that the copper sensor is more stable than the skin simulant, but the material and structure of the skin simulant is more suitable for skin simulation. The skin simulant better simulates the skin heat transfer. For all the factors in the model, the thermal properties of the material and the heat flux level are the key factors. The convective heat transfer coefficient, radiation heat transfer rate and the initial temperature have little influence on the results, which can be ignored. The results show that there are still some differences between the experimental and numerical simulation values of the skin simulant. In the future, the thermal parameters of skin simulant and the influence of the thermocouple adhesion should be further examined during the calibration process. The results suggest that the skin simulant needs to be further calibrated, especially for the thermal properties. The copper sensor on the flame manikin can be replaced by the skin simulant with higher accuracy, which will be helpful to improve the accuracy of performance evaluation of thermal protective clothing. The application of computational fluid dynamics (CFD) technology can help to analyze the heat transfer simulation mechanism of thermal sensor, explore the influence of thermal performance of thermal sensor on skin simulation, provide basis for the development of thermal sensor and improve the application system of thermal sensor. Based on the current research status, this paper studies the internal heat transfer of the sensor through the numerical modeling of the copper sensor and skin simulant, so as to analyze the effect of the sensor simulating skin and the reasons for the difference. In this paper, the sensor itself is numerically modeled and the heat transfer inside the sensor is studied.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2022-01-14
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-10-2020-0151
      Issue No: Vol. 34 , No. 3 (2022)
       
  • Assessment of jeans sewing thread consumption by applying metaheuristic
           optimization methods

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      Authors: Boubaker Jaouachi , Faouzi Khedher
      Abstract: This work highlights the optimization of the consumed amount of sewing thread required to make up a pair of jeans using three different metaheuristic methods; particular swarm optimization (PSO), ant colony optimization (ACO) and genetic algorithm (GA) techniques. Indeed, using metaheuristic optimization techniques enable industrialists to reach the lowest sewing thread quantities in terms of bobbins per garments. Besides, the compared results of this research can obviously prove the impact of each input parameter on the optimization of the sewing thread consumption per pair of jeans. To assess objectively the sewing thread consumption, the optimized sewing conditions such as thread composition, needle size and fabric composition are investigated and discussed. Hence, a Taguchi design was elaborated to evaluate and optimize objectively the linear model consumption. Thanks to its principal characteristics and popularity, denim fabric is selected to analyze objectively the effects of studied input parameters. In addition, having workers with same skills and qualifications to repeat each time the same sewing process will involve having the same sewing thread consumption values. This can occur in some levels such as end of sewing, the number of machine failures, the kind of failure and its complexity, the competency of the mechanic and his way to repair failure, the loss of thread caused by threading and its frequency. Seam repetition due to operator lack of skill will obviously affect clothing appearance and hence quality decision. Interesting findings and significant relationship between input parameters and the amount of sewing thread consumption are established. According to the comparative results obtained using metaheuristic methods, the PSO and ACO technique gives the lowest values of the consumption within the best combination of input parameters. The results show the accuracy of the applied metaheuristic methods to optimize the consumed amount needed to sew a pair of jeans with a notable superiority of both PSO and ACO methods compared to experimental ones. However, compared to GA method, ACO and PSO algorithms remained the most accurate techniques allowing industrials to minimize the consumed thread used to sew jeans. They can also widely optimize and predict the consumed thread in the investigated experimental design of interest. Consequently, compared to experimental results and regarding the low error values obtained, it may be concluded that the metaheuristic methods can optimize and evaluate both studied input and output parameters accurately. This study is most useful for denim industrial applications, which makes it possible to anticipate, calculate and minimize the high consumption of sewing threads. This paper has not only practical implications for clothing appearance and quality but also for reduction in thread wastage occurring during shop floor conditions like machine running, thread breakage, repairs, etc. (Kawabata and Niwa, 1991). Unless the used sewing machine is equipped within a thread trimmer improvement in garment seam appearance cannot be achieved. By comparing and analyzing the operating activities of the regular lock stitch 301 machine with and without a thread trimmer, a difference in time processing can be grasped (Magazine JUKI Corporation, 2008). Time consumed in trimming by a lockstitch machine without a thread trimmer equals 3.1 s compared to 2.6 s by a thread trimming one. Hence, the reduction rate in the time processing equals 16.30%. This paper aimed to implement the optimal consumption (thread waste outstanding number of trials). Unless highly skilled workers are selected and well-motivated, the previous recommended changes will not be applied. The saved cost of the sewing thread reduction can be used to buy a better quality of fabric and/or thread. However, these factors are not always the same as they can vary according to customer's requirements because thread consumption is never a standard for sewn product categories such as trousers, shirts and footwear (Khedher and Jaouachi, 2015). Until now, there is no work dealing with the investigation of the metaheuristic optimization of the consumed thread per pair of jeans to minimize accurately the amount of sewing thread as well as the sewing thread wastage. Even though these techniques of optimization are currently in full development due to some advantages such as generality and possible application to a large class of combinatorial and constrained assignment problems, efficiency for many problems in providing good quality approximate solutions for a large number of classical optimization problems and large-scale real applications, etc., are not applied yet to decrease sewing thread consumption. Some recent published works used statistical techniques (Taguchi, factorial, etc.), to evaluate approximate consumptions; conversely, other geometrical and mathematical approaches, considering some assumptions, used stitch geometry and remained insufficient to give the industrialists an implemented application generating the exact value of the consumed amount of sewing thread. Generally, in the clothing field 10–15% of sewing thread wastage should be added to the experimental approximate consumption value. Moreover, all investigations are focused on the approximative evaluations and theoretical modeling of sewing thread consumption as function of some input parameters. Practically, the obtained results are successfully applied and the ACO method gives the most accurate results. On the other hand, in the point of view of industrialists the applied metaheuristic methods (based on algorithms) used to decrease the amount of consumed thread remained an easy and fruitful solution that can allow them to control the number of sewing thread bobbin per garments.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2021-12-30
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-01-2021-0005
      Issue No: Vol. 34 , No. 3 (2021)
       
  • Research on optimization design of men's suit considering users'
           perception

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      Authors: Xiaoxi Zhou , Yue Xu , Tui Chen
      Abstract: This paper aims to identify the relationship between users' perception image, clothing design features and users' preference and propose a clothing design scheme based on users perception image and users' preference. In this paper, men's suit is composed into multiple design features under the design elements. Using the orthogonal experiment method, 16 schemes of the representative suit are designed. Through perception evaluation experiment, users' perception images and preference degree of the samples are obtained. By partial least squares (PLS) analysis method, the models between users' perception image, suit design features and users' preference are built. The interrelationship between the three is identified by establishing PLS models between users' perception image, suit design features and users' preference. According to the coefficients of the models, the optimization schemes of men's suits considering users' perception image and preference are proposed. Verification results show that the optimization schemes are significantly better than other schemes. The results of this paper can be used for consumer demand-oriented clothing design and provide references and methods for converting consumer's perceived needs into clothing design features.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2021-12-24
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-10-2020-0153
      Issue No: Vol. 34 , No. 3 (2021)
       
  • 3D virtual fit assessment and modeling: liquid cooling and ventilation
           garment

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      Authors: Hannah Weiss , Yaritza Hernandez , K. Han Kim , Sudhakar L. Rajulu
      Abstract: The suboptimal fit of a spacesuit can interfere with a crewmember's performance and is regarded as a potential risk factor for injury. To quantify suit fit, a virtual fit assessment model was previously developed to identify suit-to-body contact and interference using 3D human body scans and suit CAD models. However, ancillary suit components and garments worn inside of the suit have not been incorporated. This study was conducted to predict a 3D model of the liquid cooling and ventilation garment (LCVG) from an arbitrary person's body scan. A total of 14 subjects were scanned in a scan wear and LCVG condition. A statistical model was generated using principal component analysis and random forest regression technique. The model was able to predict the geometry of the LCVG layer at the accuracy of 5.3 cm maximum error and 1.7 cm root mean square error. The errors were more pronounced for the arms and lower torso, while the thighs and upper torso regions, which are critical for suit fit assessments, show more accurate predictions. A case study of suit fit with and without the LCVG model demonstrated that the new model can enhance the scope and accuracy of future spacesuit assessments. The capabilities resulting from these modeling techniques would greatly expand the assessments of fit of the garment on various anthropometries. The results from this study can significantly improve the design process modeling and initial suit sizing efforts to optimize crew performance during extravehicular activity training and missions.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2021-12-20
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-09-2020-0143
      Issue No: Vol. 34 , No. 3 (2021)
       
  • Analysis of visual impression based on Bra's basic components

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      Authors: Xingyu Wen , Jing Zhang , Mincheol Whang , Kaixuan Liu
      Abstract: The purpose of this paper is to discuss the relationship between bra's visual impression and bra parts, and then to explore the application of visual impression in bra design. Firstly, 82 female undergraduates are asked to answered this questionnaire online, which is about the importance of parts in bra design. In the part of data analysis, the method of principal part analysis (PCA) are used to get the relationship between bra's parts, and reduce dimension of factors that influence bra design. After that, those group of features are further discussed from the perspective of visual design. Finally, design an application based on conclusion. To get the influence features of bra appearance and improve the visual design effect, this paper matches the bra parts with visual features (color, texture, shape and space) and presents four main features of bra design: “color,” “visual texture,” “design shape” and “spatial expression” together with corresponding bra parts and technique of expression. Moreover, user interface in bra cloud customization is designed. The conclusion, which shows the corresponding relationship between bra visual effect and its basic parts, has an important role in bra visual design. First, it can be useful for design idea with different technique of expression, which may supply a theoretical basis for design. Secondly, the combination of bra parts and visual features can be used to evaluate the appearance. Discussing the bra visual impression based on bra's basic parts and visual features provides a theoretical method for bra design and its appearance evaluation.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2021-12-20
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-01-2021-0002
      Issue No: Vol. 34 , No. 3 (2021)
       
  • Development of a wearable orthotic device pattern to prevent hip
           dislocation in children with cerebral palsy

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      Authors: Hyunjung Han , Jeong Ha Kim
      Abstract: This study suggest the development of a wearable orthotic device pattern that can reduce pain and deformation, and help in the normal development of children with cerebral palsy. Such a pattern enables daily wear before hip subluxation occurs, to prevent hip dislocation and subluxation. This study set the design line by carrying out cell work on the actual model, then proceeded with the first pattern design. The final version of the second orthotic device was designed by conducting discussions with experts and the patient's guardian, with the device fitted to the child patient. The evaluation of the second orthotic device used the virtual model to check the pressure area and level through virtual fitting. An evaluation was then conducted with the device fitted to the child patient, to verify the functionality and suitability of the final pattern. Following the initial fitting evaluation, the second pattern was presented after modifying and supplementing issues such as movement suitability with posture change, position change of the great trochanter when wearing a diaper, pressure control of the X-shaped band on the genital area and thigh abduction. The master pattern of the final version of the second orthotic device was proposed after confirming that the femoral head of the hip joint was stably fixed, and the compression was applied through a verification based on the virtual fitting using the virtual model, and with the device fitted to the child patient. With this study, it is expected that the process and design plan for the development of wearable orthotic device patterns for the persons with disabilities impaired mobility can be used as a basic resource to create devices that merge the clothing and medical fields.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2021-12-14
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-09-2020-0142
      Issue No: Vol. 34 , No. 3 (2021)
       
  • A dual-branch balance saliency model based on discriminative feature for
           fabric defect detection

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      Authors: Zhoufeng Liu , Menghan Wang , Chunlei Li , Shumin Ding , Bicao Li
      Abstract: The purpose of this paper is to focus on the design of a dual-branch balance saliency model based on fully convolutional network (FCN) for automatic fabric defect detection, and improve quality control in textile manufacturing. This paper proposed a dual-branch balance saliency model based on discriminative feature for fabric defect detection. A saliency branch is firstly designed to address the problems of scale variation and contextual information integration, which is realized through the cooperation of a multi-scale discriminative feature extraction module (MDFEM) and a bidirectional stage-wise integration module (BSIM). These modules are respectively adopted to extract multi-scale discriminative context information and enrich the contextual information of features at each stage. In addition, another branch is proposed to balance the network, in which a bootstrap refinement module (BRM) is trained to guide the restoration of feature details. To evaluate the performance of the proposed network, we conduct extensive experiments, and the experimental results demonstrate that the proposed method outperforms state-of-the-art (SOTA) approaches on seven evaluation metrics. We also conduct adequate ablation analyses that provide a full understanding of the design principles of the proposed method. The dual-branch balance saliency model was proposed and applied into the fabric defect detection. The qualitative and quantitative experimental results show the effectiveness of the detection method. Therefore, the proposed method can be used for accurate fabric defect detection and even surface defect detection of other industrial products.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2021-12-14
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-02-2021-0017
      Issue No: Vol. 34 , No. 3 (2021)
       
  • Automatic interpolation algorithm for NURBS trajectory of shoe sole
           spraying based on 7-DOF robot

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      Authors: Gaoping Xu , Hao Zhang , Zhuo Meng , Yize Sun
      Abstract: The purpose of this paper is to propose an automatic interpolation algorithm for robot spraying trajectories based on cubic Non-Uniform Rational B-Splines (NURBS) curves, to solve the problem of sparse and incomplete trajectory points of the head and heel of the shoe sole when extracting robot motion trajectories using structured-light 3D cameras and to ensure the robot joints move smoothly, so as to achieve a good effect of automatic spraying of the shoe sole with a 7-degree-of-freedom (DOF) robot. Firstly, the original shoe sole edge trajectory position points acquired by the 3D camera are fitted with NURBS curves. Then, the velocity constraint at the local maximum of the trajectory curvature is used as the reference for curve segmentation and S-shaped acceleration and deceleration planning. Immediately, real-time interpolation is performed in the time domain to obtain the position and orientation of each point of the robot motion trajectory. Finally, the inverse kinematics of the anthropomorphic motion of the 7-DOF robot arm is used to obtain the joint motion trajectory. The simulation and experiment prove that the shoe sole spraying trajectory is complete, the spraying effect is good and the robot joint movement is smooth, which show that the algorithm is feasible. This study is of good practical value for improving the quality of automated shoe sole spraying, and it has wide applicability for different shoe sole shapes.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2021-12-13
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-05-2021-0058
      Issue No: Vol. 34 , No. 3 (2021)
       
  • Influence of the length of the spacer group on the performance of the
           sulfate-based Gemini surfactants

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      Authors: Wang Yu , Gang Chen , Haiyan Yang , Sisi Li
      Abstract: A series of sulfate-based Gemini anionic surfactants were synthesized via etherification, ring opening and sulfation reactions using epichlorohydrin, fatty alcohol, ethylene glycol and chlorosulfonic acid as the main raw materials. Orthogonal experiments for 1,8-bisalkoxymethylene-3,6-dioxin-1,8-octane disulfate were performed on the sulfation reaction to determine the optimal reaction conditions. A series of sulfate-based Gemini anionic surfactants were synthesized via etherification, ring opening and sulfation reactions using epichlorohydrin, fatty alcohol, ethylene glycol and chlorosulfonic acid as the main raw materials. Orthogonal experiments for 1,8-bisalkoxymethylene-3,6-dioxin-1,8-octane disulfate were performed on the sulfation reaction to determine the optimal reaction conditions. The structures of the intermediate and final products were characterized by FT-IR (Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy analysis), 1H-NMR (proton nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy) methods. The thermal performance of surfactants was analyzed using thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). The thermogravimetric results showed that the sulfate-based Gemini surfactants had good heat resistance (the thermal decomposition temperature of which was in the range of 140∼170'). The Krafft point, surface tension, foaming, Hydrophile–Lipophile Balance Number (HLB), emulsifying, wetting, and lime-soap dispersing performance were measured by visual observation, hanging drop method, aqueous surfactant solution method and Borghetti–Bergman method, respectively. The results have shown that all the sulfate-based Gemini surfactants had good water solubility and lime-soap dispersing ability. When spacer group was -(CH2)2-, with the increase of the carbon chain length from C12 to C14, the micellar concentration critical micelle concentration and surface tension (CMC) gradually increased from 8.25 × 10–4 mol/L to 8.75 × 10–4 mol/L and 27.5 mN/m to 30.9 mN/m, respectively. Also, the sulfate-based Gemini surfactants with the different length of the spacer group had a different effect on their performance on foaming properties and foam properties, HLB and emulsifying ability and wetting ability. In view of the important role of the spacer group and the general use of anionic surfactants in oil fields, this article considers the preparation of a series of sulfate-based Gemini surfactants by changing the spacer group and the chain length of the hydrophobic group and evaluating their surface activity, and finally its Kraffi, on the foam properties, HLB value, emulsifying performance, lime soap dispersing ability etc. Sulfate-based Gemini surfactants have broad application prospects in the fields of oil and gas exploitation, environmental protection, chemistry and daily chemical industry and so on.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2021-12-10
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-05-2021-0065
      Issue No: Vol. 34 , No. 3 (2021)
       
  • Design and implementation of fake two-piece fully formed process for
           blouse

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      Authors: Biqin Zhan , Xian Huang , Chenyuan Cai , Honglian Cong
      Abstract: Fully formed knitting technology is a cutting-edge technology in the design and production of knitted apparel. Using this technology and its supporting design system, a new development mode of fully formed knitted apparel with double-layer structure and fake two-piece knitwear is proposed. Based on the upper body structure feature points of human body characteristics and single-layer knitted garment prototype, a double-layer structure knitted garment pattern was established by pattern expansion method. The model was introduced into SDS-APPEX3 design system for process design, including three aspects consists: the inner vest, the outer blouse and double-layer joint part, analysis of the process and forming principle. Weaving on four-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine of MACH-2XS, through the setting of the machine parameters. Finally, a full-shaped fake two-piece knitted blouse was formed. On the basis of single-layer knitted garment pattern, a double-layer garment pattern is constructed, and the design and weaving are completed on the four-needle bed computerized knitting machine of MACH-2XS and its supporting SDS-APPEX3 design system through the fake two-piece double-layer garment style design. The double-layer joint model is an effective reference for the construction of this kind of fake two-piece fully formed knitted clothing. In this paper, a design and knitting method of fully formed double-layer structure fake two-piece knitted garment is proposed. The integrated knitting of fully formed double-layer structure sweater is realized for the first time, which provides ideas for the development of fully formed double-layer structure knitted clothing style and enriches the fully formed clothing style.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2021-11-09
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-08-2020-0133
      Issue No: Vol. 34 , No. 3 (2021)
       
  • Development of design system for product pattern design based on Kansei
           engineering and BP neural network

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      Authors: Daoling Chen , Pengpeng Cheng
      Abstract: In order to help companies better grasp the perceptual needs of consumers for patterns, so as to carry out more accurate product pattern development and recommendation, this research develops a product pattern design system based on computer-aided design. First, use the Kansei engineering theory and method to obtain the user's perceptual image, and deconstruct and encode the pattern based on the morphological analysis method, then through the BP neural network to construct the mapping relationship between the user's perceptual image and the pattern design elements, and finally calculate and find the corresponding design code combination according to the design goal to guide the pattern design. Taking costume paper-cut patterns as an example, the feasibility of this system is verified, the design system can well reflect the user's perceptual image in the pattern design and improve the efficiency of pattern customization service. Compared with the traditional method that relies on the designer's personal experience to propose a design plan, this research provides scientific and intelligent design methods for product pattern design.
      Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
      PubDate: 2021-10-29
      DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-04-2021-0044
      Issue No: Vol. 34 , No. 3 (2021)
       
  • International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

    • Free pre-print version: Loading...

       
 
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