Subjects -> TEXTILE INDUSTRIES AND FABRICS (Total: 41 journals)
    - CLOTHING TECHNOLOGY AND TRADE (6 journals)
    - TEXTILE INDUSTRIES AND FABRICS (35 journals)

TEXTILE INDUSTRIES AND FABRICS (35 journals)

Showing 1 - 16 of 16 Journals sorted by number of followers
Composites Science and Technology     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 177)
Textile History     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 16)
International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 16)
Fashion Practice : The Journal of Design, Creative Process & the Fashion     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 14)
Fashion and Textiles     Open Access   (Followers: 14)
Third Text     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 13)
Textile Research Journal     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 11)
International Journal of Textile Science     Open Access   (Followers: 8)
Journal of the Textile Institute     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 7)
Asian Journal of Textile     Open Access   (Followers: 7)
Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice     Full-text available via subscription   (Followers: 7)
Journal of Natural Fibers     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 6)
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research (IJFTR)     Open Access   (Followers: 6)
Journal of Fashion Technology & Textile Engineering     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 6)
Geotextiles and Geomembranes     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 5)
Text and Performance Quarterly     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 5)
Geosynthetics International     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 4)
Journal of Industrial Textiles     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 4)
Fibers     Open Access   (Followers: 4)
Research Journal of Textile and Apparel     Full-text available via subscription   (Followers: 4)
Journal of Textiles and Fibrous Materials     Full-text available via subscription   (Followers: 4)
Focus on Pigments     Full-text available via subscription   (Followers: 3)
Textile Progress     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 3)
Journal of Textile Science & Engineering     Open Access   (Followers: 3)
Fibre Chemistry     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 2)
Journal of The Institution of Engineers (India) : Series E     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 2)
Wearables     Open Access   (Followers: 2)
Autex Research Journal     Open Access   (Followers: 1)
Achiote.com - Revista Eletrônica de Moda     Open Access   (Followers: 1)
Journal of Leather Science and Engineering     Open Access  
Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics     Open Access  
Similar Journals
Journal Cover
Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
Journal Prestige (SJR): 0.1
Number of Followers: 4  
 
  Full-text available via subscription Subscription journal
ISSN (Print) 1560-6074 - ISSN (Online) 2515-8090
Published by Emerald Homepage  [362 journals]
  • Implementation of design approach in traditional attire Bodo Dokhona for
           the sustainability of apparel culture

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      Authors: Chaitali Brahma, Bhaskar Saha, Anirban Chowdhury
      Abstract: The purpose of this study is to empower a tradition Bodo attire Dokhona skilled artisan for their livelihoods and preserve cultural and historical legacy by using new themes influenced by Bodo items. To revive the traditional Bodo artefacts by adapting a varied form of motifs inspired from Bodo artefacts which showcases Bodo identity. Motifs implemented in apparel (e.g. Dokhona) inspired from Bodo traditional tools and musical instruments, signifying Bodo identity. Such apparels could be purchased by Bodo consumers as they are very keen to sustain their culture and heritage through motifs weaved in their traditional apparel. This study also proves that Dokhona designed with novel motifs developed from traditional artefacts are better than currently available designs of Dokhona as these were more aesthetic and contemporary in look. The motif adapted from traditional artefacts would motivate the weavers to weave innovative motif designs in their apparel bringing some newness in the Bodo traditional attire Dokhona, leads to business and women empowerment. This study showed the way to create innovative ideas for designing apparel (e.g. Dokhona) from cultural artefacts and helps prospective textile and apparel designers to design sustainable Dokhona.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2024-05-21
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-09-2023-0104
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2024)
       
  • Investigation of the French Terry structure characteristics on
           sport-veiling using sustainable eco-materials

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      Authors: Sarah Yahia, Marwa Atif Ali, Khaled Mohamed Seddik
      Abstract: This paper aims to produce sustainable sport-hijab or veiling using cotton and bamboo as renewable and eco-material blending with polyester. Due to the unique characteristics of the knitting fabrics, the research focused on constructing the proposed samples using a circular knitting technique with a French terry structure, to achieve comfort, ease of care, good appearance and sustainability in different climatic conditions. The researchers formed three different knitted samples using yarn count 30/1Ne for cotton and bamboo and 70 dens for polyester yarn, using the same blending ratio of 50:50% (cotton/polyester, bamboo/ polyester and cotton/ bamboo). They tested several mechanical and physical properties (weight, thickness, air permeability, water permeability, electrostatic charges, ultraviolet protection factor, stiffness, pilling resistance and bursting strength). Using different tools, the researchers statistically analyzed the influence of variables on sample properties, including a Chart line, ANOVA test at p-value = 0.05 and the least significant differences values to identify the effect significantly as well as demonstrate the interaction among the samples at each tested property. Finally, radar chart areas to clarify the preferable sample performance. The findings declared that blending materials used significantly affected most properties of the produced samples, except for the water permeability and an electrostatic charge. Furthermore, the findings pointed out that blending (cotton or bamboo/polyester) is more efficient and desirable than blending (cotton/ bamboo). Additionally, based on radar charts analysis, the cotton/polyester knitted outperforms other blended materials samples in producing sport-hijab or veiling fabric.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2024-05-21
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-12-2023-0144
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2024)
       
  • Analysis of garment fit problems and body measurements of Ethiopian young
           female consumers

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      Authors: Berihun Bizuneh, Abrham Destaw, Fasika Hailu
      Abstract: This paper aims to investigate fit problems with some ready-to-wear garments, analyse the body measurements of Ethiopian young female consumers and draw implications for the improvement of ready-to-wear garment fit. A random sample of 970 university students aged 18–35 years were interviewed, and their 35 body dimensions were measured manually according to the procedures in ISO 8559: 2017. The fit problems and body measurements were examined with the body mass index (BMI) and ethnicity of the subjects. Moreover, 15 body dimensions were compared with that of Chinese and US females of similar age. The results showed that fit problems are frequent in lower garments for underweight consumers. Nearly consistent and smaller differences in body measurements were observed with BMIs and ethnicity of the subjects, while inconsistent and larger differences were found among the subjects from the three countries. The Ethiopian subjects were smaller than the Chinese in height and weight, between the Chinese and US females in most body measurements, and larger than the US subjects in across shoulder and arm and shoulder lengths. The results alarm the need for the development of Ethiopian national garment size standards. The paper relates ready-to-wear garment fit issues to demographic factors and demographic factors to body measurements. Moreover, it considers young female consumers in Ethiopia, an African country with less explored consumer needs for clothing.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2024-05-20
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-10-2023-0110
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2024)
       
  • Bioremediation of reactive black 5 textile dye wastewater using bacterial
           exopolysaccharides

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      Authors: Ann Wairimu Mburu, David Githinji Njuguna, Fredrick Musieba, Charles Nzila, Virginia Kimani, Alice Wangai
      Abstract: The purpose of this paper is to investigate the efficacy of bacterial exopolysaccharides (Eps) in reactive black 5 (RB5) textile dye wastewater bioremediation. The Eps were produced by bacteria isolated from cotton gin trash soils collected from different cotton-growing regions in Kenya for comparison purposes. A broth medium reconstituted using molasses was assessed for its capacity to produce the Eps. RB5 textile dye wastewater was optimized for dye removal under different temperatures, times and molasses concentrations. Dye removal was studied by Lovibond-Day Light Comparator, UV–Vis spectrophotometer and FTIR. It was found that cotton gin trash soils contained Eps-producing bacteria. Three of the Eps studied were found to have the capacity to remove at least 80% of the dye from the wastewater. This research did not assess the efficacy of the RB5 dye removal from the wastewater by mixtures of the Eps. Bioremediation of textile dye wastewater with Eps produced by bacteria cultured from cotton gin trash soil is significant because it will offer an effective and cleaner alternative to the chemical coagulants. Alternative treatment of textile wastewater with the Eps would result in safer water being released into the water bodies as opposed to the chemically treated wastewater that contains remnant chemicals. Research on the use of Eps produced by bacteria isolated from cotton gin trash soils for removal of RB5 dye from textile wastewater has not been done before.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2024-04-15
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-08-2023-0089
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2024)
       
  • A systematic review of the socio-cultural and economic value of Ghanaian
           weaving art tradition

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      Authors: George Kwame Fobiri, Ebenezer Kofi Howard, Solomon Marfo Ayesu, Ama Kour Timpabi, Diana Oppong
      Abstract: The purpose of this study is to investigate the value of Ghanaian weaving art tradition to humanity from socio-cultural and economic points of view. This study sought to answer questions such as “What is the interest of researchers regarding Ghanaian textile weaving art tradition'”, “To what extent has weaving art tradition projected the Ghanaian culture'” and “What is the socio-economic value of Ghanaian weaving art tradition'” The systematic literature review approach was used to analyse data obtained from the Scopus online database. The PRISMA framework was adopted to select 22 relevant studies for analysis and conclusions. Also, the VOSviewer software was used to analyse and understand the co-occurrence of keywords. It was revealed that Ghanaian weaving art tradition stands as a major craft that projects Ghana globally. Researchers around the world keep adding knowledge on Ghanaian traditional weaving and its value to humanity, resulting in a significant rise recently in the publication trend. Also, the rich cloth from the art is celebrated annually to invite people around the globe to learn the Ghanaian culture for social development. This study again found that traditional weaving serves as a major source of income for weavers and marketers of indigenous Ghanaian woven fabrics. The findings of this study serve as a wake-up call to the Government of Ghana, institutional actors and national leaders to practically engage in the projection of the local art by playing individual roles such as financially supporting the craftsmen, initiating and implementing appropriate policies and displaying the local cloth on international occasions. This will make the local art more attractive for effective marketing and cultural preservation. With reliable information extracted from the Scopus online database, this study presents original results and makes appropriate suggestions worth adopting for the improvement of the Ghanaian weaving art tradition.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2024-04-09
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-06-2023-0066
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2024)
       
  • Woven fabric selection and grading for ladies’ winter shawls using
           multicriteria decision-making approach

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      Authors: Faryal Yousaf, Shabana Sajjad, Faiza Tauqeer, Tanveer Hussain, Shahnaz Khattak, Fatima Iftikhar
      Abstract: Quality assessment of textile products is of prime concern to intimately meet consumer demands. The dilemma faced by textile producers is to figure out the stability among quality criteria and efficiently deal with target specifications. Hence, the basic devotion is to attain the optimum value product which entirely satisfies the views and perceptions of consumers. Selection of best fabric among several alternatives in the presence of contradictory measures is a disputing problem in multicriteria decision-making. In the current study, the analytic hierarchy process (AHP) and preference ranking organization method for enrichment evaluation (PROMETHEE) are proficiently used to solve the problem in selection of branded woven shawls. AHP method verifies comparative weights of the criteria selection, while the ranking of fabric alternatives grounded on specific net-outranking flows is executed through PROMETHEE II method. The collective AHP and PROMETHEE approaches are applied for the useful accomplishment of grading of branded shawls based on multicriteria weights, used for effective selection of fabric materials in the textile market. In the apparel industry, fabric and garment manufacturers often rely on hit-and-trial methods, leading to significant wastage of valuable resources and time, in achieving the desirable fabric qualities. The implementation of the findings can assist apparel manufacturers in streamlining their fabric selection processes based on multiple criteria. By adopting this method, industry players can make informed decisions, ensuring a balance between quality standards and consumer expectations, thereby enhancing both product value and market competitiveness. The methods of Visual PROMETHEE and AHP are assimilated to offer a complete method for the selection and grading of fabrics with reference to multiple selection criteria.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2024-04-08
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-07-2023-0076
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2024)
       
  • Introduction of new combination of bio-mordant from agriculture waste for
           eco-dyeing of wool yarns

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      Authors: Mozhgan Hosseinnezhad, Kamaladin Gharanjig, Shahid Adeel, Alireza Mahmoudi Nahavandi
      Abstract: Agricultural waste and food sources are some of the pollutants of the environment. One of these wastes is the peel of fruits that cannot be consumed as food. In this regard, walnut husk (WH) and oleaster peel (PO) are known as two important sources of tannin and are bulky wastes. Because of the high percentage of tannin, these materials can be used as a natural source for the preparation of bio-mordant in the dyeing process. In this study, Reseda and Madder were used as natural dyes in the presence of a mixture of two bio-mordants. WH and PO were selected as bio-mordant. All natural resources are extracted to obtain the juice. The phenolic percentage of tannin-containing extracts was evaluated and then it was used for wool yarns by premordanting method. The results of evaluating the fastness properties using the ISO method. The most important achievement of this research is the use of agricultural waste in the dyeing process to reduce environmental pollution and create added value. All compounds rich in tannin have some phenolic components, therefore the amount of phenolic content of these extracts was evaluated. The effect of mixing the mordant on the color characteristics of the yarns was investigated and the results showed that changing the ratio of the combination of two mordant is effective on the K/S values. The results of evaluating the fastness properties using the ISO method showed that the washing, rubbing and light fastness in the presence of mordant is good, good and moderate, respectively. In this paper, to the best of the authors’ knowledge, for the first time, the combination of two natural extracts obtained from agricultural waste has been used to create a new bio-mordant on fibers and improve stability.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2024-03-28
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-07-2023-0074
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2024)
       
  • Modern developments in burn wound dressing

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      Authors: Monica Puri Sikka, Jameer Aslam Bargir, Samridhi Garg
      Abstract: Intense interest has been shown in creating new and effective biocide agents as a result of changes in bacterial isolates, bacterial susceptibility to antibiotics, an increase in patients with burns and wounds and the difficulty of treating infections and antimicrobial resistance. Woven, nonwoven and knitted materials are used to make dressings; however, nonwoven dressings are becoming more popular because of their softness and high absorption capacity. Additionally, textiles have excellent geometrical, physical and mechanical features including three-dimensional structure availability, air, vapor and liquid permeability, strength, extensibility, flexibility and diversity of fiber length, fineness and cross-sectional shapes. It is necessary to treat every burn according to international protocol and along with it has to focus on particular problems of patients and the best possible results. The objective of this paper is to conduct a thorough examination of research pertaining to the utilization of textiles, as well as alternative materials and innovative techniques, in the context of burn wound dressings. Through a critical analysis of the findings, this study intends to provide valuable insights that can inform and guide future research endeavors in this field. In the past years, there have been several dressings such as xeroform petrolatum gauze, silver-impregnated dressings, biological dressings, hydrocolloid dressings, polyurethane film dressings, silicon-coated nylon dressings, dressings for biosynthetic skin substitutes, hydrogel dressings, newly developed dressings, scaffold bandages, Sorbalgon wound dressing, negative pressure therapy, enzymatic debridement and high-pressure water irrigation developed for the fast healing of burn wounds. This research conducts a thorough analysis of the role of textiles in modern burn wound dressings.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2024-03-28
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-08-2023-0084
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2024)
       
  • The challenges to circular economy in the Indian apparel industry: a
           qualitative study

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      Authors: Ahmed Ashraf Zaidi, Rahul Chandra
      Abstract: In recent years, researchers and practitioners have paid a great deal of attention to the circular economy (CE) due to its potential social and environmental benefits. However, limited attention has been devoted in the literature to studying the barriers to CE implementation in the apparel retail industry in emerging and developing nations besides China. Consequently, the purpose of this paper is to analyse the barriers to implementing CE in the Indian garment retail market. This exploratory study uses a comprehensive literature analysis to identify the micro-level impediments to CE adoption in India's garment retail industry. The study aims to identify these barriers using a Delphi process, consisting of three stages. The first stage involves literature reviews and expert opinions, while the second and third stages involve survey methods with 14 industry professionals and academics. The use of the two primary data sources allows for triangulation of the data, which improves the validity of the findings and enables broader conclusions to be drawn from the results. This study indicates that the top three challenges to implementing CE principles in the Indian apparel retail industry are “standards and regulation barriers” (84%), “strategic barriers” (82%) and “supply chain management and technology barriers” (79%). Strategies for overcoming these obstacles include gaining top management support, coordinating supply chain components, training and employee motivation. This study considers only Indian apparel retail industry, and the practical implications could potentially limit the study to emerging Asian economies. To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this is the first research of its type to explore CE obstacles at the organizational level in the Indian garment retail business. Thus, it contributes to a greater understanding of the topic and enables practitioners to develop effective policies and business strategies for CE and sustainability.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2024-02-14
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-09-2023-0105
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2024)
       
  • Employing ultrasonic waves to extract flax seed for textile printing and
           applying creative fashion designs

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      Authors: Nagla Elshemy, Mona Ali, Reem Nofal
      Abstract: The purpose of this study is to successfully apply ultrasonic waves for the quick extraction of flax seed gum from flaxseed hull or whole seed and compare it to the standard technique of extraction. The effect of the heating source, extracted time, temperature and pH of extracted solution on the extraction was studied. The obtained gum is subsequently used for silk screen printing on cotton, linen and viscous fabrics. Rheological properties and viscosity of the printing paste were scrutinized in the current study to get a better insight into this important polysaccharide. The output of this effort aimed to specify the parameters of the processes for printing textiles to serve in women’s fashion clothes by applying innovated handmade combinations of Islamic art motives using a quick and affordable method. Seven designs are executed, and inspiring from them, seven fashion designs of ladies’ clothes were designed virtually by Clo 3D software. The result recorded that the new gum has excellent printing properties. In addition, they have better rheological properties, viscosity, chromatic strength and fastness qualities, all of which could help them in commercial production. Flaxseed and three different fabric types (Cotton, Linen and Viscous) were used. Synthesis of a new biodegradable thickener from a natural resource, namely, flaxseed, by applying new technology to save time, water and energy. Synthesis of eco-friendly biodegradable thickener and used in textile printing alternative to the synthetic thickener.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2024-02-13
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-12-2022-0148
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2024)
       
  • The influence of garment quality evaluation on fashion innovation of
           dressmakers in Ghana

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      Authors: Eunice Benyah, Richard Acquaye, Raphael Kanyire Seidu
      Abstract: The innovativeness of dressmakers is a concern to respondents to satisfy their clothing needs. The purpose of this study is to determine the criteria that respondents use to judge the quality of clothing and its influences on the innovative ability of dressmakers in the clothing manufacturing industries. Three hundred and ninety-seven (397) respondents in the Takoradi Metropolis of Ghana filled out a questionnaire, and the results were used to compile data for the study. The sample size was calculated using Miller and Brewer formula. The data was analysed using structural equational modelling with the SmartPLS v.4 software. The results showed that respondents are very interested in the calibre of clothing produced by their dressmakers. However, the study revealed that when evaluating the quality of a garment, respondents do not simply accept what has been sewn for them but also consider the performance, appearance, fit and shape of the garment. Findings revealed that there was a significant relationship between garment appearance quality (t = 2.605; p < 0.05), garment performance quality (t = 3.915; p < 0.05), garment shape quality (t = 6.248; p  0.05). The continuous evaluation of custom-made clothing from customers will go a long way towards highlighting the relative criteria they use to evaluate the innovation of dressmakers. This will help improve the creativity of the dressmakers since such feedback will help them understand and innovate their production skills to meet the preferences of customers. The present study provides an in-depth understanding of how garment quality evaluation by customers influences the innovation of dressmakers in Takoradi, Ghana. The constructs were developed for the study to capture the appropriate data from customers for the study. This presents an evaluation criterion on four garment quality variables imperative for use or modification by other studies.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2024-02-02
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-09-2023-0101
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2024)
       
  • Characterization of decorticated fibres from agricultural waste of the
           plant and their non-woven fabric properties

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      Authors: Wiah Wardiningsih, Farhan Aqil Syauqi Pradanta, Ryan Rudy, Resty Mayseptheny Hernawati, Doni Sugiyana
      Abstract: The purpose of this study is to analyse the characteristics of cellulose fibres derived from the pseudo-stems of Curcuma longa and to evaluate the properties of non-woven fabric produced using these fibres. The fibres were extracted via a decortication method. The acquired intrinsic qualities of the fibres were used to assess the feasibility of using them in textile applications. The thermal bonding approach was used for the development of the non-woven fabric, using a hot press machine with low-melt polyester fibre as a binder. The mean length of Curcuma longa fibres was determined to be 52.73 cm, with a fineness value of 4.00 tex. The fibres exhibited an uneven cross-sectional morphology, characterized by a diverse range of oval-shaped lumens. The fibre exhibited a tenacity of 1.45 g/denier and an elongation value of 4.30%. The fibres possessed a moisture regain value of 11.30%. The experimental non-woven fabrics had consistent weight and thickness, while exhibiting different properties in terms of tensile strength and air permeability, with Fabric C having the highest tensile strength and the lowest air permeability value. The features of Curcuma longa fibre, obtained with the decortication process, exhibited suitability for textile applications. Three experimental non-woven fabrics comprising different compositions of Curcuma longa fibre and low-melt polyester fibre were produced. The tensile strength and air permeability properties of these fabrics were influenced by the composition of the fibres.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2024-01-31
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-09-2023-0090
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2024)
       
  • A new technique for determination of the optimum cut height according to
           the fabric type in garment production

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      Authors: Mehmet Küçük
      Abstract: Fabrics, which are one of the raw materials of the clothing industry, constitute approximately 40–45% of the total cost of an apparel product. Due to the labor-intensive nature of this industry and failure to apply scientific methods along with the manufacturing processes, the wastes in the raw materials, including fabrics, become higher. Besides, quality deficiencies are encountered due to the same reasons. This study aims to determine the optimum total fabric layer height based on the fabric type during the cutting process with a straight knife cutting machine, which provided a decrease in the cutting errors. Frequently used fabric types in an enterprise operating in organic cotton knitwear were listed. During the cutting tests, the straight knife cutting machine was used as the cutting device. The weight and thickness values of the fabrics were obtained to provide a comparison basis. Two different algorithms were created to evaluate the defective pieces according to fabric type, cutting height and error placement. Cutting resistances of these fabrics were also determined to evaluate the defect reasons. In the end, optimum total fabric layer count and total cutting height suggestions were proposed for each fabric type for a minimum cutting error. At the end of this study, the error-free layers were identified per fabric type. At the same time, the optimum cutting height was suggested for each fabric basis. For 40/1 single jersey fabrics, the cutting height should be between 2.10 cm and 10.40 cm; for 30/1 single jersey fabrics, between 1.65 cm and 5.70 cm; for 20/1 single jersey fabrics, between 1.83 cm and 6.70 cm; for two-thread fleece fabrics, between 2.13 cm and 4.70 cm; and for three-thread fleece fabrics, between 0 cm and 4.90 cm. Within the scope of the study, since the products made of knitted fabric were produced more frequently and in large quantities, the study was carried out with 15 different types of knitted fabrics at 10 different layers. The same methods should be applied for woven, denim and nonwoven fabric types, which would shed light on the following studies. Due to scarce research carried out on the cutting procedure of the clothing industry in regards to sustainability, this study aims to contribute to this area. The main difference between this study and the studies that mostly make mathematical predictions about the cutting procedure is that it is practice-oriented.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2024-01-25
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-07-2023-0069
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2024)
       
  • Experimental investigation of mechanical and comfort properties of
           banana/cotton blended woven fabrics

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      Authors: Amanpreet Kaur Kharbanda, Kamal Raj Dasarathan, S.K. Sinha, T. Senthil Kumar, B. Senthil Kumar
      Abstract: Through this study, four different types of woven fabric structures were created by using cotton/banana blends with a 70:30 ratio by varying the weaving specifications. This study aims to investigate the comfort and mechanical properties of these woven materials. Taguchi L16 experimental design (5 factors and 4 levels) with response surface methodology tool was used to optimize mechanical and comfort characteristics. The yarn samples used in this study are cotton/banana with a blend ratio of 70:30. Fabric type (A), grams per square metre (GSM; B), yarn count (C), fabric thickness (D) and cloth cover factor (E) are the chosen process characteristics. The highest tensile strength and tearing strength of the cotton/banana blended fabric samples were obtained as 326.3 N and 90.3 k.gf/cm, respectively. Similarly, the highest thermal conductivity and overall moisture management capacity values were found to be 0.6628 and 3.06 W/mK X10−4, respectively. The optimized process parameters for obtaining maximum mechanical properties were using canvas fabric structure, 182 GSM, 36s Ne yarn count, 0.48 mm fabric thickness and 23.5 cloth cover factor. Similarly, the optimized process parameters for obtaining maximum comfort properties were achieved using a twill fabric structure, 182 GSM, 32s Ne yarn count, 0.4 mm fabric thickness and 23 cloth cover factor. In contrast to synthetic fabrics, banana fibre and its blended materials are significant ecological solutions for apparel and functional clothing. Products made from banana fibre are a sustainable and green alternative to conventional fabrics. Banana fibre obtained from the pseudostem of the plant has an appearance similar to ramie and bamboo fibres. Numerous studies showed that banana fibre could absorb significant moisture and be spun into yarn through ring and rotor spinning technology. On the other hand, this fibre can be easily combined with cotton, jute, wool and synthetic fibre. The present utilization of pseudostem of banana plant fibre is very minimal. This type of research improves the usability of bananas their blended fabrics as apparel and functional wear.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2024-01-12
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-08-2023-0085
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2024)
       
  • Modification of dehydrated bacterial cellulose with glycerol and succinic
           acid by using padding method for textile applications

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      Authors: Hung Ngoc Phan, Satoko Okubayashi
      Abstract: Dehydrated bacterial cellulose’s (BC) intrinsic rigidity constrains applicability across textiles, leather, health care and other sectors. This study aims to yield a novel BC modification method using glycerol and succinic acid with catalyst and heat, applied via an industrially scalable padding method to tackle BC’s stiffness drawbacks and enhance BC properties. Fabric-like BC is generated via mechanical dehydration and then finished by using padding method with glycerol, succinic acid, catalyst and heat. Comprehensive material characterizations, including international testing standards for stiffness, bending properties (cantilever method), tensile properties, moisture vapor transmission rate, moisture content and regain, washing, thermal gravimetric analysis, derivative thermogravimetry, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy and colorimetric measurement, are used. The combination of BC/glycerol/succinic acid dramatically enhanced porous structure, elongation (27.40 ± 6.39%), flexibility (flexural rigidity of 21.46 ± 4.01 µN m; bending modulus of 97.45 ± 18.20 MPa) and moisture management (moisture vapor transmission rate of 961.07 ± 86.16 g/m2/24 h; moisture content of 27.43 ± 2.50%; and moisture regain of 37.94 ± 4.73%). This softening process modified the thermal stability of BC. Besides, this study alleviated the drawbacks for washing (five cycles) of BC and glycerol caused by the ineffective affinity between glycerol and cellulose by adding succinic acid with catalyst and heat. The study yields an effective padding process for BC softening and a unique modified BC to contribute added value to textile and leather industries as a sustainable alternative to existing materials and a premise for future research on BC functionalization by using doable technologies in mass production as padding.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2024-01-05
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-10-2023-0111
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2024)
       
  • Key terms and topics of muscle-supportive and posture-corrective wearable
           robots for older adults using text mining and semantic network analyses

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      Authors: Wujun Tang, Jiwon Chung, Sumin Koo
      Abstract: This study aims to conduct text mining and semantic network analysis of muscle-supportive and posture-corrective wearable robots for the elderly to understand key terms related to the topic and to identify considerations for developing these types of clothing. The authors searched and identified the key terms wearable robot, muscle-supportive, posture correction and elderly using the text-mining software Textom to extract terms as well as the network analysis software UCINET 6 to process and visualize the relationships among the terms. The authors compared and analyzed the term frequency (TF), the TF-inverse document frequency and the degree centrality of the terms, and the authors visualized and summarized the terms using NetDraw. The key terms and their relationships in 3–4 groups were identified: wearable robot, muscle-supportive, posture correction and elderly. The authors identified the aspects of designing muscle-supportive and posture-corrective wearable robots for the elderly. This study contributes to the field of muscle-supportive clothing and wearable robotics by deriving insights into what people are discussing and interested in, and by offering recommendations when developing these types of clothing for the elderly.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2024-01-02
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-08-2023-0087
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2024)
       
  • Physical, thermal and mechanical properties of horse tail and mane hairs

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      Authors: Sümeyye Üstüntağ, Nazim Paşayev
      Abstract: This study aims to comparatively reveal the physical, thermal and mechanical properties of horse tail and mane hairs, which have the potential to be used in many areas. Physical properties of horsehairs such as diameter, density, moisture and water absorption were measured. Fourier transform infrared, field emission scanning electron microscopy and amino acid analyzes were applied to the hairs. Thermal stability of horsehair was investigated by thermogravimetric analysis and differential scanning calorimetry analysis. In addition, breaking strength and elongation values of mane and tail hairs were measured. As a result of morphological analysis of horsehair, it was observed that there are usually gaps in the internal structure of horsehair, but the size and continuity of these gaps vary. It has been determined that there is a significant difference between the tenacity values of tail and mane hairs as well as geometric characteristics. In addition, amino acid analysis has shown that the amino acid contents of horse tail and mane hairs are similar and not much different from sheep’s wool. Horsehair has been used for various purposes such as clothing, accessories, brushes, upholstery and reinforcement material. To use horsehair in accordance with its application area and performance characteristics, it is necessary to know its physical, thermal and mechanical properties. It is considerable to reveal the similar and different aspects of tail and mane hairs to determine whether they are alternatives to each other. Therefore, revealing the characteristics of tail and mane hairs comparatively constitutes the originality of this study.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-12-26
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-08-2023-0080
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Enzymatic easing of adhesion in honeydew-contaminated cotton for textile
           applications

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      Authors: Prapti Behera, Kannan N., Priyodip Paul, Sanjukta Aravind, Balaji S.
      Abstract: The textile sector struggles with cotton stickiness from honeydew contamination. It hurts agriculture and marketability. This study aims to examine how bacterial enzymes could reduce honeydew-contaminated cotton adherence in textile businesses sustainably. Enzyme was extracted from bacteria isolated from the fermented bamboo shoots “Lung siej”. The enzyme was tested for α-glucosidase using p-nitrophenyl-α-D-glucopyranoside as a substrate. Design of experiments determined enzyme activity temperature and reaction time. Laboratory-prepared artificial honeydew was added to ginning mill cotton to show honeydew contamination. After enzyme treatment, sticky cotton was tested for microscopic examination, ultraviolet (UV), Benedict’s, Elsner colorimetric, high volume instrument (HVI) and viscosity tests. The bacterial isolate is characterized as Lysinibacillus sp. as confirmed by 16S rRNA gene sequencing. The enzyme extracted was identified as α-glucosidase. The ideal temperature and reaction time for enzymatic activity were 32 °C and 35 min, respectively, using central composite design. The microscopic examination, UV test, Benedict’s test, Elsner colorimetric test, HVI test and viscosity test showed that bacterial enzyme treatment reduced cotton fiber adherence. Although few patents have examined the effect of yeast enzymes, to the best of the authors’ knowledge, a bacterial enzyme is investigated for the first time to reduce the adhesion of honeydew-contaminated cotton.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-12-20
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-06-2023-0064
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Identification of bioactive compounds from onion () bulb using Raman, and
           FTIR spectroscopy

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      Authors: Karen Desta Agulei, John T. Githaiga, Benson Dulo, Eric Oyondi Nganyi
      Abstract: This study aims to identify the bioactive compounds in the Onion (Allium burdickii [A.B]) bulb using Raman and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) spectroscopy. It assessed the extraction conditions of bioactive compounds from A.B. while evaluating the best extraction conditions. The research opted for an experimental qualitative approach. It examined the extraction conditions of A.B., namely, temperature (°C), time (min) and mass-to-liquor ratio (M:R) using ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometry. Identification of bioactive compounds present in the dye was performed using Raman spectroscopy and the validation of the results was done by FTIR spectroscopy. The study determined the best extraction conditions (time, temperature, M:R) for A.B bulb. The study confirmed the presence of bioactive compounds. The limitation was quantification of bioactive compounds in A.B bulb. The findings prove that the A.B. bulb can provide a sustainable source of bioactive compounds (functionalized compounds). The study provides suitable extraction conditions for A.B. and further elaborates on the techniques for identifying bioactive compounds in A.B. bulb extracts. The study provides A.B. as a source of bioactive compounds and a clean dye for textile coloration. To the best of the authors’ knowledge, there is no documented study on the qualitative analysis of bioactive compounds in A.B using Raman and FTIR. Therefore, the study fulfils the identified need to ascertain alternative procedures for the analysis of bioactive compounds.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-12-11
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-07-2023-0070
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Dyeing of some Egyptian cotton varieties using agricultural wastes (peanut
           outer skin)

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      Authors: Shereen Omar Bahlool, Zeinab M. Kenawy
      Abstract: Peanut skins are an agro-waste product with no commercial value. The purpose of this paper is to evaluate peanut skin as a natural dyestuff and to determine if this natural dye could be used in the dyeing of some Egyptian cotton cultivars. The methodology consists of several steps; dye extraction procedure from peanut skin through aqueous extraction, then dyeing optimized using simultaneous mordanting using alum. Finally, dyed cotton has been subjected to different textile laboratory tests, for example, color measurements and mechanical properties. Color-fastness was determined on Egyptian cotton fabric. The peanut skin as a source of natural dye and the dyed cotton sample were characterized by fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) analysis. It was found that the natural dye extracted from peanut skin has an affinity for cotton samples and showed high dyeability with a unique color shade, good color strength and very good fastness. The novelty of this paper is the extraction of color from the peanut's outer skin which is discarded as waste such as agro-waste of the agricultural process which can be used as a natural dye in the textile industry and applied to dyeing some Egyptian cotton fibers from different genotypes.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-12-11
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-07-2023-0079
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Characterization of cotton woven compression bandages with different
           structures

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      Authors: Khaled Mohamed Seddik, Marwa Atif Ali
      Abstract: Nowadays, textiles play a striking role in various medical applications. Compression bandages are the most essential medical fabrics that help treat venous flow and edema. This study aims to investigate the characteristics of different woven compressive bandage structures produced using compact cotton and cotton/lycra. Four samples were weaved by matt-plain2/2, twill2/2, stripe-stain4 and mock-leno structures. Several properties were tested that related to structural performance. Tensile strength, elastic and sub-bandage pressure are considered the main functional properties. Three different analysis tools were performed: chart-diagram, one-factor ANOVA and radar chart area. The woven structures critically affected the performance of woven compression bandage samples as well as their classifications. The woven structures critically affected the performance of woven compression bandage samples as well as their classifications.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-12-01
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-07-2023-0077
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Apparel professionals’ perception of sustainability-related technology:
           a structural equation modeling approach

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      Authors: Md Arif Iqbal, Jin Su
      Abstract: This study aims to examine the effects of the characteristics of apparel professionals on their attitude toward sustainability-related technology in the context of a developing country, Bangladesh. A quantitative approach was used to investigate the apparel professionals’ perception of sustainability-related technology. A survey was conducted, and 204 valid responses were used in data analysis. The structural equation modeling technique was used to analyze the data. The findings demonstrate that apparel professionals’ personal innovativeness positively impacts their knowledge of apparel technology. Knowledge of apparel technology and environmental issues in apparel manufacturing both significantly and positively impact their level of awareness of sustainability-related technology in apparel manufacturing. The findings also suggest that managers’ level of awareness of sustainability-related technology has a significant positive impact on their attitude toward sustainability-related technology. Fishbein’s attitude theory was applied to examine how the various characteristics of apparel professionals (i.e. personal innovativeness in technology, knowledge of apparel technology, knowledge of environmental issues of apparel manufacturing) affect their awareness of and attitude toward sustainability-related technology. This study expands our understanding of the causal flow among cognitive variables of apparel professionals, including their innovativeness, knowledge, awareness and attitudes. The findings of the study can be helpful to the apparel industry to improve apparel professionals’ adoption of sustainable technology.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-11-24
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-04-2023-0040
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Effect of technological parameters on the process of copper deposition on
           chemically and chemical-galvanically nickel-plated fibers

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      Authors: Aizhan Doshibekova, Indira Jurinskaya, Salikh Tashpulatov, Raushan Zhilisbayeva, Lazzat Sarttarova, Rustam Akbarov, Marzhan Kalmakhanova
      Abstract: This paper aims to study the possibility of electroplating copper coatings on chemically and chemical-galvanically nickel-plated acrylic fibers, to be further processed into yarn, fabrics, knitwear and nonwoven materials. Electrically conductive fibers with different copper contents have been obtained, and the effect of electrolyte pH, its composition, current strength at the first and second cathodes, as well as the metallization time on the electrophysical, physical and mechanical properties of copper-containing fibers, has been studied. The studies have shown that with an increase in the copper content, the electrical conductivity, the uniformity of the coating and the uniformity of the electrophysical properties (for chemical-galvanically nickel-plated fiber) increase. In the case of copper plating of chemically nickel-plated fiber, the coefficient of variation in electrical resistance increases with increasing plating time, even though the copper content increases, and the coefficient of variation in copper content and electrical resistance decreases. The physical and mechanical properties of copper-containing fibers differ slightly from the original (subjected to copper plating) and industrial Nitron fibers. With copper plating, the strength of the fiber practically does not decrease, and the elongation decreases somewhat, compared with the mass-produced Nitron fiber. The physical and mechanical properties of copper-containing fibers are quite high, which makes it possible to be successfully further processed into yarn, fabrics, knitwear and nonwoven materials.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-10-30
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-03-2023-0037
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Sustainable traditional natural dyeing practice in Daboya and Ntonso
           communities of Ghana

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      Authors: Raphael Kanyire Seidu, Benjamin Eghan, Emmanuel Abankwah Ofori, George Kwame Fobiri, Alex Osei Afriyie, Richard Acquaye
      Abstract: The purpose of this study is to investigate the physical, ultraviolet (UV), colour appearance and colour fastness properties of selected fabrics dyed with natural dyes from Daboya and Ntonso communities of Ghana. The study further highlights the rich cultural heritage of traditional dyeing from these two communities. Craftsmen in West Africa especially Ghana, have sustained the traditional dyeing methods to produce textile products for consumers. In this study, two sample fabrics were purchased from craftsmen at Ntonso and Daboya communities in Ghana. These fabrics were analysed at the laboratory under standard test methods for their physical, UV, colour appearance and colour fastness properties. Results showed that all the sample fabrics have good UV shielding performance (ratings above 50+). Daboya sample fabrics (dyed with indigo dyes) produced more colour stains than the sample fabrics from Ntonso (dyed with black “kuntunkuni” dyes). The K/Ssum value or colour yield reduced after washing but that alternatively increased the calculated ultraviolet protection factor. Findings from this study exposed the unique UV performance of dyed traditional fabrics (using natural dyes) from Ntonso and Daboya communities in Ghana. This inspires and enforces the need for craftsmen to improve their production cycle to produce these fabrics in different sizes which provides the necessary UV shielding abilities for consumers in the wake of climate changes. This study demonstrated that the natural dyeing process at the two communities produced relatively good UV and colour fastness properties of the sample fabrics. These eco-friendly dyeing practices have survived over time to maintain and promote the concept of sustainability within the textile and fashion industry in Ghana.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-10-24
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-07-2023-0071
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Evaluation of solanum tuberosum potato peel waste for use as an
           eco-friendly antibacterial finish for cotton fabrics

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      Authors: Nonsikelelo Sheron Mpofu, Josphat Igadwa Mwasiagi, Cleophas Achisa Mecha, Eric Oyondi Nganyi
      Abstract: This study aims to investigate the potential use of potato peel extracts as antibacterial finishes for cotton fabrics against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli. Potato peels are abundant as waste and provide a natural, cheaper and sustainable alternative means of preventing the spread of bacterial infections on cotton fabric. This research included the characterization of potato peel extracts, application of the extract onto cotton fabric and efficacy testing of the treated cotton fabric against bacteria. Phytochemical screening, agar well diffusion antibacterial test, minimum inhibitory concentration and Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) tests were used to characterize the extract. Antibacterial efficacy of the treated fabric was determined qualitatively using the disc diffusion assay and quantitatively using the bacteria reduction test. Phytochemical screening confirmed the presence of several secondary metabolites including phenols and flavonoids. Antibacterial tests revealed a positive response in Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus with a zone of inhibition of 6.50 mm and 5.60 mm, respectively. Additional peaks on the FTIR spectroscopy confirmed the presence of potato peel extract on the treated cotton fabric. The treated cotton fabrics showed efficacy against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli up to 20 washes. This study introduced the application of potato peel extracts onto cotton fabrics and assessment of the antibacterial properties before and after washing. Results of this study suggest that potato peel extracts can be used as an organic eco-friendly antibacterial finish for cotton fabrics.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-10-16
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-05-2023-0052
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Development of a textile multilayered device with piezoelectric property
           using different knitted fabric structures

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      Authors: Gabriela Maestri, Claudia Merlini, Leonardo Mejia, Fernanda Steffens
      Abstract: This study aims to develop two piezoelectric textile devices formed from different weft knitted fabric rapports (Jersey and Pique) to be applied in the renewable energy’s (RE) area. Two different weft knitted rapports were produced with polyester (PES). The device developed has five layers: a central of poly(vinylidene fluoride) (PVDF) nonwoven, involved by two insulating layers of PES knitted fabric; and two conductive external layers, made of polypyrrole-coated PES knitted fabric. The piezoelectric textile devices were joined by sewing the five layers of the device. The FTIR technique confirmed the β-phase in the PVDF nonwoven. This study produced and tested two different textiles devices with piezoelectric behavior, confirmed by the correlated pattern of voltage and tensile stress difference curves, showing the potential application in RE’s and sustainable energies field as smart textiles, such as devices incorporated in garments in the areas of high movement (elbow, knee, foot, fingers and hands, among others), and as an energy generator device Textile materials with piezoelectric properties promise to advance RE’s developments due to their high material flexibility and sensitivity to the electrical response. The knitted fabric technology presents flexibility due to its construction process. Comparative studies analyzing the electrical response between knitted and woven fabrics have already been realized. However, there is a gap in terms of research scientific research regarding the comparison of the piezoelectric effect in a material that presents different knitted fabric rapports.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-10-13
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-04-2023-0047
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • An analysis of the wool characteristics that determine wool price in South
           Africa

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      Authors: Mashford Zenda, Paul Malan, Antonie Geyer
      Abstract: South Africa’s wool industry plays an important role in the agricultural sector. The wool industry provides a valuable source of income for farmers who practice sustainable farming practices. However, wool farmers face numerous challenges, such as wool contamination, dirty wool and producing good-quality wool. Good-quality wool is determined by fibre diameter, clean yield, vegetable matter and staple length. This study aims to address these challenges. A multiple regression analysis of price (R/kg) of White wool and Merino wool was applied to four variables fibre diameter: vegetable matter, clean yield and staple length. The analysis was based on the data for the 2009–2019 data from Cape Wools auctions. Fibre diameter, clean yield and staple length, with exception of vegetable matter, made a statistically significant contribution to the determination of wool price after all other independent variables were controlled for (p < 0.05). A one-unit (micron) increase in fibre diameter resulted in a 0.404-unit decrease in wool price (R/kg). A one-unit (mm) increase in staple length resulted in a 0.022-unit increase in wool price (R/kg). There was no statistically significant association between vegetable matter and wool price. A one-unit increase in clean yield was associated with a 0.111-unit increase in wool price (R/kg). Since wool fleeces consist of the largest portion of wool shorn from sheep, it is important for wool farmers to focus on wool with low fibre diameter, high clean yield percentage, low percentage of vegetable matter content and good length of the wool. Since wool fleeces consist of the largest portion of wool shorn from sheep, it is important for wool farmers to focus on wool with low fibre diameter, high clean yield percentage, low percentage of vegetable matter content and good length of the wool. In a developing country such as South Africa, this study is important for the following reason. It is understanding the wool characteristics that have the most significance influence on the determination of wool price for Merino wool and White wool might effectively help the wool farmers to adapt their production systems to improve the wool characteristics that determine wool price. This study identified a need for a study to be conducted on all wool classes.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-10-12
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-06-2023-0061
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Perceptions of the textile industry stakeholders on a multi-slab goods and
           services tax system in India

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      Authors: Ashutosh Pandey, Nitin Saxena, Udai Paliwal
      Abstract: The purpose of this paper is to present the perception of the textile industry stakeholders (manufacturers, wholesalers, retailers, consumers and tax professionals) on India’s new goods and services tax (GST) system and find whether the introduction of GST has made doing business easier or not. The researchers used interviews and surveys to capture the perceptions of the textile industry stakeholders at Surat, a major textile hub in India. To econometrically verify the perceptions, the researchers used a logit regression model. The researchers found that the provision of monthly tax filing has increased textile businesses’ dependency on tax professionals, which increased business costs. Also, the GST system has made tax compliance easier and is user-friendly. However, tax refund-related issues are a significant factor that negatively impacts the ease of doing business post-GST. The findings of the research shall be helpful for the GST Council of India and policymakers to understand the problems faced by the textile businesses and cater to their problems. To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this study is original as none of the available studies captures the perception of all the textile industry stakeholders, namely, manufacturers, wholesalers, retailers, consumers and tax professionals, on the GST system applying econometric techniques to validate the perceptions.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-10-03
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-04-2023-0046
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • The potentials of plant-based colorants for sustainable textile dyeing
           industry

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      Authors: Lutamyo Nambela
      Abstract: The purpose of this study was to review the information on the scientific efforts and achievements in sustainable industrial textile applications of natural colourants. Then the paper suggests the ways of improving the industrial textile applications of plant-based colourants. The literature on the chemistry, sources and extraction of plant-based natural colourants was reviewed. The reviewed information was analysed and synthesised to provide techniques for selecting sustainable extraction methods, possible sustainable textile applications of natural colourants and the challenges which hinder industrial textile applications of plant-based natural colourants. The ways of overcoming the challenges of the industrial textile applications of plant natural colourants were suggested. Lastly, the current situation of industrial application of natural dyes in textiles is presented. Despite the scientific achievement to overcome the challenges of natural colourants for textiles, the global industrial application of natural colourants is still low. Inadequate knowledge of the dyers results into poor performance of the natural dyed textile. The natural dyed textiles are expensive due to the scarcity of raw materials for manufacturing of natural colourants. The selection of suitable extraction, application methods and type of substrate should consider the chemistry of the particular colourant. The society should be educated about the benefits of natural dyed textiles. Cultivation of colourant-bearing plants should be promoted to meet the industrial material demand. The paper provides a synthesized collection of information about the source, chemistry, extraction, textile application and challenges of plant-based natural colourants. The reviewed information was analysed and synthesised to provide techniques for selecting sustainable extraction methods, possible sustainable textile applications of natural colourants and the challenges which hinder industrial textile applications of plant-based natural colourants. The ways of overcoming the challenges of the industrial textile applications of plant natural colourants were suggested.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-09-29
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-04-2023-0043
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • The behaviour of quasi-static puncture resistance property for textile
           body armor soft panels

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      Authors: A.I.H. Fayed, Y.A. Abo El Amaim, Ossama R. Abdelsalam, Doaa H. Elgohary
      Abstract: This paper aims to estimate the performance of protective clothing used to resist puncture (anti-stab property). Seven single-layer (one layer) samples were investigated in this research. The first three samples were already used for the purpose of (anti-stab property), manufactured from Du-Pont product (commercial samples). The rest of the samples were locally designed and manufactured for the same purpose. These seven samples have then been examined after been added in conjunction with WL Kevlar XP (S 104) witness multilayers (eight layers) panel to create which are called multilayer samples. The results of the statistical analysis for one-way ANOVA illustrated significant effect for single layer samples for all properties. While for multi-layer samples, the results showed a significant difference for all variables except displacement. The Tukey post hoc test observed a significant effect for some samples; also, other samples show a non-significant effect between samples. It was observed that the locally manufactured samples serve the purpose as (anti-stab samples) compared with the commercial samples. The radar chart shows that for single-layer sample, the fifth sample fulfill the highest radar chart area, whereas for multi-layer samples, the sixth sample achieved the highest radar chart area.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-09-13
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-04-2023-0048
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Host-guest complexes application in textile industry

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      Authors: Farish Armani Hamidon, Faridah Lisa Supian, Mazlina Mat Darus, Yeong Yi Wong, Nur Farah Nadia Abd Karim
      Abstract: The host–guest molecules are often used in various fields and applications. This paper aims to discuss the role of host–guest complexes in the textile industry, focusing on calixarenes as a potential adsorbent for hazardous dyes. The paper begins with an introduction to nanotechnology and its many uses, including textiles. The risks associated with the utilisation of dyes and its adverse effects on the environment are then also highlighted. This paper also discusses the structure and characteristics of calixarenes and their potential use as an adsorbent to extract toxic metals from aqueous solutions. The paper also explains the molecular structure of calixarenes, especially the ability of its upper and lower rims, which can be altered to yield derivatives with various selectivities for diverse guest ions and small molecules. In addition, the application of various host–guest molecules in the textiles industry to extract dyes also had been discussed. In conclusion, the paper highlights the essential in establishing a systematic review on the significance of selective adsorbents, such as calixarenes, to isolate particular targets from diverse matrices in the textile industry. Only discussing several applications for several host–guest molecules. The paper concisely describes various host–guest molecule applications in the textile industry, with each molecule being elaborated upon in detail.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-09-05
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-04-2023-0044
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • The effects of product-brand fit and brand type on wearable smart masks

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      Authors: Zhenghao Tong, Soyeong Lee, Hongjoo Woo
      Abstract: This study aims to examine the effects of perceived product–brand fit and brand type on consumer evaluations of wearable smart masks’ technological, aesthetic and social attributes and how these affect consumers’ attitudes and intentions to use. Through an experimental approach, a total of 240 US consumers’ evaluations of smart masks are compared according to perceived product–brand fit (high vs low) and brand type (electronics vs fashion). The results showed that high perceived product–brand fit increases consumers’ evaluations, while brand type did not significantly affect consumers’ evaluations. Among various attributes, social acceptability had the greatest influence on consumers’ attitude and intention to use. Perceived ease of use, however, positively influenced attitude but negatively influenced intention to use. As consumers’ interest in smart health-care wearables increases and air pollution is a serious issue across countries, research on wearable smart masks is being facilitated. Smart masks refer to the digitalized, reusable wearable masks that provide protection and health-care functions. However, their market penetration is still limited. To close this gap between smart mask technology and the market, this study examines how perceived fit and brand type can be used to enhance consumer evaluations.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-09-05
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-05-2023-0054
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Garment sizing system development for Amhara policemen uniforms using data
           mining techniques

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      Authors: Berihun Bizuneh, Abrham Destaw, Fasika Hailu, Solomon Tsegaye, Bizuayehu Mamo
      Abstract: Sizing system is a fundamental topic in garment fitting. The purpose of this study was to assess the fit of existing police uniforms (shirt, jacket, overcoat and trousers) and develop a sizing system for upper and lower body uniforms of Amhara policemen in Ethiopia. In total, 35 body dimensions of 889 policemen were taken through a manual anthropometric survey following the procedures in ISO 8559:1989 after each subject was interviewed on issues related to garment fit. The anthropometric data were pre-processed, key body dimensions were identified by principal components analysis and body types were clustered by the agglomerative hierarchical clustering algorithm and verified by the XGBoost classifier in a Python programming environment. The developed size charts were validated statistically using aggregate loss and accommodation rate. About 44% of the subjects encountered fit problems every time they own new readymade uniforms. Lengths and side seams of shirts, and lengths and waist girths of trousers are the most frequently altered garment sites. Analysis of the anthropometric measurements resulted in 13 and 15 sizes for the upper and lower bodies, respectively. Moreover, the comparison of the developed upper garment size chart with the existing size chart for a shirt showed a considerable difference. This indicates that inappropriate size charts create fit problems. The study considers the analysis of fit problems and sizing system development in a less researched country. Moreover, the proposed data mining procedure and its application for size chart development is unique and workable.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-08-08
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-02-2023-0023
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Post-COVID assessment of small business weavers in an Indian handloom
           industry: identifying and prioritizing key challenges

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      Authors: M.K.P. Naik, Prabhas Bhardwaj, Vinaytosh Mishra
      Abstract: This paper aims to identify and analyze the challenges for the Varanasi handloom industry after the COVID pandemic by considering their impact on different sections of the weavers and subsequently suggest the best possible solution for the same. A combined approach of expert opinion and in-depth literature reviews are used to identify the challenges, and a multicriteria decision-making tool is used to rank the challenges for the type of weaver. This research provides an elaborated view of the problems faced by the handloom industry after the COVID pandemic and suggests that the success of the handloom business is subjected to the eradication of a wide number of challenges according to the type of weaver. The findings of this research will help the policymakers to make and align their policies and strategies for the upliftment of the Varanasi handloom industry efficiently and effectively. To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this is the first kind of study that focuses on identifying and prioritizing the barriers affecting the success of the Varanasi handloom industry after the COVID pandemic. Furthermore, the uniqueness of this research lies in its ability to study all three independent sections of the handloom industry, having different capabilities and limitations.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-07-25
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-03-2023-0028
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • The effect of eWOM on consumer purchase intention and mediating role of
           brand equity: a study of apparel brands

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      Authors: Zebran Khan, Ariba Khan, Mohammed Kamalun Nabi, Zeba Khanam, Mohd Arwab
      Abstract: The purpose of this study is to investigate how electronic word of mouth (eWOM) affects purchase intention and brand equity, and to further examine the mediating role of brand equity between eWOM and purchase intention among Indian consumers of branded apparel. The data was collected from 303 consumers of branded apparel using an online questionnaire, and data were analyzed through structural equation modeling with the help of SPSS v24 and AMOS v23. The findings of this study demonstrated that eWOM has a positive and significant influence on brand equity and purchase intention. Simultaneously, brand equity partially mediates between the eWOM and purchase intention of consumers of apparel brands. The study's data set is limited in its generalizability as it is based on specific responses from Indian consumers of branded apparel via an online survey. The results of this study would help marketing practitioners and apparel manufacturers to augment their sales and design their promotional strategy in accordance with consumers' traits. To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this study is one of the first to propose an integrative model that studies relationships between eWOM, brand equity and purchase intention by incorporating the Elaboration Likelihood Model among Indian consumers of branded apparel. Furthermore, this novel piece of research explores the relationship between eWOM and purchase intention with brand equity as a mediator, particularly for branded apparel selected by Indian consumers.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-07-13
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-11-2022-0133
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Evaluating fabrics produced by blending hollow fibres and bamboo with
           cotton/polyester wastes using the Kawabata system

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      Authors: Amal Mohamed El-Moursy, Zeinab Mohmed Abdel Mageid, Manar Yahia Ismail Abd El-Aziz, Nour Asser, Osama Hakeim
      Abstract: Wearing clothes requires specifications for feeling comfortable, derived from the fibres, fabrics and finishing properties. This study aims to deal with the effect of economic blends containing hollow fibres, bamboo and cotton/polyester waste on the mechanical properties of the produced fabrics and the appropriate end use. This research included two blends: one consisted of cotton/polyester wastes blended with bamboo and the other to which Chorisia fibres were added. Two weft counts 10,6/1 Ne were made from each blend, which were used to produce four fabric samples (S1 Chorisia-free and S2 with Chorisia); additionally, another two samples were dyed that contain Chorisia (S3) from each count. The six samples were tested by Kawabata Evaluation System (KES). The samples gave a good total hand value (THV) for use as men's winter suits, where the thicker count 6/1, with and without Chorisia had better properties, also both counts 6, 10/1 with dye. The hollow fibres affected the fabrics’ properties, including thickness, shear, bending, thermal conductivity and weight. Both blends had a positive effect on THV. Cotton/polyester waste, Chorisia and bamboo fibres were tested, and 2% Remazol Yellow GNL dye was used. The ratio of blending, weft counts and dye affected the fabric’s properties, with consequences for the use of the Kawabata system and its applications. The fabrics used in this research may be considered to be economical and have good THV. The study proved the usefulness of fabrics made of two blends. The Chorisia component may be seen as a good alternative to cotton fibres to reduce the cost of producing high-consumption winter suit fabrics.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-07-11
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-01-2023-0005
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Assessing the effectiveness of traditional wool scouring for small-scale
           farmers in South Africa: a study on detergents and scouring time

         This is an Open Access Article Open Access Article

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      Authors: Ketshepileone Shiela Matlhoko, Jana Franie Vermaas, Natasha Cronjé, Sean van der Merwe
      Abstract: The South African wool industry is integral to the country's agricultural sector, particularly sheep farming and wool production. Small-scale farmers play a vital role in this industry and contribute to employment and food security in rural communities. However, these farmers face numerous challenges, including a lack of funding, poor farming practices and difficulty selling their wool at fair prices. This study aims to address these challenges, the University of Free State launched a wool value chain project for small-scale farmers. In this project, one of the studies conducted assessed the effectiveness of different detergents suitable for traditional wool scouring methods for small-scale farmers who lack access to sophisticated machinery. The investigation was conducted by scouring 160 wool samples using three different detergents and filtered water as a control. The wool samples were then evaluated for their cleanliness, brightness and fibre properties through a combination of scanning electron microscopy, spectrophotometry and statistical analysis at different scouring times (3, 10, 15 and 20 min, respectively). The results showed that the combination of scouring time and the type of scouring solution used could significantly impact wool quality. It was found that using a combination of standard detergent or Woolwash as a scouring solution with a scouring time of 10–15 min resulted in the best outcome in terms of fibre property, wool colour and scouring loss. This study demonstrated that traditional wool scouring methods could be an option for small-scale farmers and anyone who want to learn how to scour wool without expensive machinery to make wool products.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-06-27
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-02-2023-0017
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Pre-loved or hatred' Consumers’ perception of value towards second-hand
           fashion consumption in Sri Lanka

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      Authors: Thamoda Geegamage, Achini Ranaweera, Rangika Halwatura
      Abstract: The fashion industry has been accused of being the second largest environmental polluter in the world. Millions of tons of post-consumer waste are dumped in landfills and garbage disposal sites each year. However, environmental concerns are emerging as a mainstream issue among modern-day consumers. This critical problem has prompted fashion retailers and brands to embrace sustainable practices to address consumers’ environmental concerns by reducing pollution. Given this background, this research aims to understand consumer’s perceptions of value towards second-hand fashion consumption in the context of Sri Lanka. This exploratory study uses a qualitative approach to understand consumers’ perceptions of value towards second-hand fashion consumption. This research uses the theoretical model of the means-end chain model and shows five consumer’s values of second-hand consumers: price-consciousness, consciousness on emotional bonds, comfortability consciousness, quality and brand consciousness and social and environmental consciousness. Furthermore, the authors show non-second-hand fashion consumers’ values as social status consciousness, hygienic consciousness, comfortability consciousness, quality and brand consciousness and self-expressive consciousness. This research sheds some light on the emerging knowledge of second-hand consumption. This research further points out certain practical implications by drawing attention to a few opportunities and challenges associated with the second-hand fashion business within the Sri Lankan fashion retail sector, in particular when launching new fashion brands catering to second-hand fashion consumers.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-06-14
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-02-2023-0022
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Role of top management green commitment, adaptability culture and green
           product innovation in boosting organizational green performance in
           Pakistan

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      Authors: Maryam Gull, Mohsin Rashid, Sobia Hassan, Saqib Rehman
      Abstract: Top management and managers must highlight environmental issues and adopt green product innovation (GPI) to implement eco-friendly management in their businesses. This research aims to examine the impact of top management’s green commitment and adaptability culture (AC) on organizational green performance (OGP) mediated by GPI. The study was conducted in the context of the textile industry of Pakistan, where a sample of 232 employees was collected for the data analysis. The study adopted a quantitative approach, and the data collected were analyzed using relevant statistical tools (SPSS 24 and Smart PLS 3.0) to address the research questions. The present study supported positive relationships of top management green commitment (TMGC) and AC with the OGP, whereas GPI mediated the relationships. Integrating the AC, TMGC, GPI and the organization’s green performance is a milestone as it serves as an effort to present a model promoting green management research. The study’s findings could be used in the textile sector to foster a green culture by strengthening green AC and GPI by raising environmental concerns within the workforce.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-06-13
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-12-2022-0159
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Human factor analysis of error detection and correction in hand-knotted
           carpet production process

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      Authors: Gagan Deep Kaur
      Abstract: The paper aims to discuss error detection and correction in Kashmiri carpet weaving (KCW), mediated by cryptographic code, Talim which is held to guarantee accurate information transference from designing to weaving, even after hundred years. Yet, carpets often show errors on completion. Human factors analysis revealed error emergence, detection and correction in this practice whose task domains are distributed over large geographies (from in-premises to several kilometers) and timescales (from days to decades). Using prospective observation method, production process of two research carpets from their design, coding and weaving was observed while noting the errors made, identified and corrected by actors in each phase. The errors were found to emerge, identified and corrected during different phases of designing, coding and weaving while giving rise to fresh errors in each phase, due to actors’ normal work routines. In view of this, usual branding of “weaver-error” behind flawed carpet turns out to be misplaced value judgment passed in hindsight.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-06-05
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-10-2022-0124
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • The mediating role of self-efficacy in the relationship between job
           satisfaction and commitment of employees working in the textile industry

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      Authors: T.S. Nanjundeswaraswamy, Nagesh P., Sindu Bharath, Vignesh K.M.
      Abstract: This study aims to explore the mediating role of self-efficacy and the relationship between job satisfaction and employee commitment. The study is designed based on social cognitive theory. To collect the data, survey method is used in the present study. Questionnaires were distributed to the 75 randomly selected textile industry registered and located in Bengaluru city, India. Employees of 71 organizations participated in the survey. Out of 700 employees who received the email survey, 452 valid responses were considered for the data analysis. To examine the defined research hypothesis, a structural equation model is used. The mediating analysis explored that the direct effect is 0.700, the indirect effect is 0.1730 and the total effect is 0.8731; it indicated that self-efficacy mediates the relationship between job satisfaction and employee commitment. Research also reveals that there is a positive relationship between self-efficacy, employee commitment and job satisfaction of employees working in the textile industry. The proposed measurement model statistics are as follows: CMIN = 2.322; df = 49; GFI = 0.958; AGFI = 0.934; NFI = 0.943; RFI = 0.923; IFI = 0.967; TLI = 0.955; CFI = 0.966. All these indices were nearer to unity. The research findings provide insights to the management, practitioners and employers about the status of job satisfaction, self-efficacy and commitment of employees in textile organizations which will help make the strategies to increase the overall performance of the organization by enhancing the levels of job satisfaction, self-efficacy and commitment of textile industry employees. To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this is the first study that tests the relationship among self-efficacy, job satisfaction and the mediating effect of self-efficacy of employees in Indian textile industries.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-06-02
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-01-2023-0002
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Eco-friendly materials knitting by different yarn ply for high-performance
           garments

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      Authors: Heba Tolla El Sayed Abo El Naga, Manar Yahia Ismail Abd El-Aziz
      Abstract: Synthetic materials have many drawbacks in high-performance garments because they absorb less moisture and cause allergies to sensitive individuals. Cotton materials cannot satisfy all the requirements and cannot provide the required high performance. This study aims to use eco-friendly materials with a common structure to analyse their suitability for high-performance garment application. This study used two eco-friendly yarns (bamboo, modal and bamboo: modal 50:50) and yarns per needle (two- and four-ply yarns). with a single jersey knit construction and gauge of 7. The physical, mechanical, appearance, comfort, thermal and ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) protection characteristics were evaluated using 15 tests. The produced knitted fabrics showed high performance for use as garments with physical, mechanical, appearance, comfort, thermal and UPF protection characteristics that were achieved, tested and analysed. The highest-achieved samples with a good UPF (
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-06-02
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-03-2023-0038
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Investigation of the effect of preparation processes on CO laser-faded
           denim fabric quality

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      Authors: Tuna Uysaler, Pelin Altay, Gülay Özcan
      Abstract: In the denim industry, enzyme washing and its combination with stone washing are generally used to get the desired worn-out look. However, these conventional methods include high water, energy and time consumption. Nowadays, laser fading, which is a computer-controlled, dry, ecological finishing method, is preferred in the denim fading process. The purpose of this study is to observe the effects of chemical pretreatment applications on laser-faded denim fabric in terms of color and mechanical properties. To eliminate the enzyme washing process in denim fading and to minimize the disadvantages of laser fading, such as decreased mechanical properties and increased fabric yellowness, various chemical pretreatment applications were applied to the denim fabric before laser fading, followed by simple rinsing instead of enzyme washing. Two different indigo-dyed, organic cotton denim fabrics with different unit weights were exposed to pretreatment processes and then laser treatment, followed by simple rinsing. Polysilicic acid, boric acid, borax and bicarbonate were used for pretreatment processes, and laser treatment was carried out under optimized laser parameters (40 dpi resolution and 300 µs pixel time). Tensile strength was tested, and color values (CIE L*, a*, b*, ΔE*, C* and h), color yield (K/S), yellowness and whiteness indexes were measured to identify the color differences. Before laser fading, 30 g/L and 40 g/L polysilicic acid pretreatments for sulfur-indigo-dyed fabric and a mixture of 10 g/L boric acid and 10 g/L borax pretreatments for the fabric only indigo-dyed were recommended for the laser fading with sufficient mechanical properties and good color values. With the chemical pretreatments defined in this study, it was possible to reduce yellowness and maintain the mechanical properties after laser fading, thus minimizing the disadvantages of laser treatment and also eliminating enzyme washing.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-05-24
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-01-2023-0014
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Manufacturing of window shutters from cotton waste fabrics for sustainable
           textiles

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      Authors: Soliyana Gebeyaw, Kura Alemayehu Beyene, Eradu Seid, Zemzem Mustofa, Gideon K. Rotich
      Abstract: This study aims to manufacture alternative window shutters using waste cotton fabrics by stiffening using polyvinyl acetate (PVA) with vinyl acrylic binder solutions. The manufactured fabrics were evaluated for their tensile strength, drapeability, bending length by weight and color fastness to light. And finally, an analysis of variance was done for each parameter. As the percent of PVA with a vinyl acrylic solution and the number of layers increased, the tensile strength, drape coefficient (percent), bending length (cm), and color fastness to light increased in both directions. The percent of PVA with a vinyl acrylic solution and the number of layers are statistically significant for each response such as tensile strength, drape coefficient (percent), bending length (cm), color fastness to light and water repellency at a 95% confidence interval. Tensile strength, drape coefficient (%) and bending length (cm) are always greater in the warp direction than in the weft direction. The tensile strength, drape coefficient (percent), bending length (cm) and color fastness to light of treated fabrics samples are greater than those of the untreated fabrics. The factory waste fabrics can be recycled into window shutters which will provide the cheaper raw material for window shutter manufacturers.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-05-19
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-09-2022-0117
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Developing a holistic sensory evaluation three-part method for textiles
           and apparel: a practical application for novel materials and products

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      Authors: Armine Ghalachyan, Elena Karpova, Anastasia Frattali
      Abstract: This study aims to propose and demonstrate a practical application of a new three-part holistic sensory evaluation (HSE) method for textiles and apparel based on the senses of sight, touch, hearing and smell. HSE method development was carefully documented, described and successfully applied to evaluate sensory characteristics and consumer perceptions and acceptance of bacterial cellulose (BC), a novel sustainable material for apparel. In Part One of the HSE method, research participants described the material in their own words based on the senses of sight, touch, hearing and smell. In Part Two, they rated the intensities and their linking for 25 predetermined attributes describing BC. Part Three measured participants’ overall liking of BC and its perceived suitability for apparel and accessories. Application of the HSE method resulted in an in-depth understanding of BC material. Areas for material improvements and positive characteristics were identified, providing direction for further development. Consumers found BC suitable for accessories and outer-layer garments but not for apparel. Sensory evaluation of textiles and apparel has traditionally focused on the senses of touch and sight. The new HSE method allows evaluating the full range of sensory characteristics of materials/products and holistically assessing consumer perceptions. The method is especially useful for novel materials and wearable technology. BC has gained increased interests as a novel sustainable material, yet consumer studies have been lacking. This study reports a comprehensive evaluation of BC material from consumer perspective.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-05-09
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-11-2022-0138
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • A conceptual appraisal towards the contextualization of product and
           process innovation in clothing manufacturing

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      Authors: Duncan Kariuki Ndwiga, Lucy Wanjiru Ciera, Geoffrey Ngugi Mokabi
      Abstract: This study aims to address the aspects of product and process innovation strategies and their determining factors to understand their characteristics in clothing manufacturing and contribution for a successful and competitive clothing industry. This general review is based on literature data of previous studies on innovation that transcend and cover the aspects of innovation applicable in the clothing industry. Although the scope of discussion is theoretically broad, it focusses on the context of innovation strategies in clothing manufacturing and the determinant factors indicating the acquisition and implementation of product and process-related innovation activities, simultaneously exploring and linking their implications for adopting, managing and integrating enterprise activities to the values of desired innovation novel models. Based on theoretical background and pragmatic generalizations, product and process innovation strategies in clothing manufacturing firms tend to incline more towards computer-integrated technologies and concepts meant to promote product development, process optimization and organizational integration. Industry, technological and R&D factors tend to significantly determine innovation capability of a clothing firm. This review generates integrated conceptual frameworks for product and process innovation strategies applicable in clothing firms and their determinant factors as prelude to empirical validation.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-04-21
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-07-2022-0080
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Understanding the perceived business obstacles and determinants of credit
           adoption by textile firms: evidences from World Bank’s enterprises
           survey

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      Authors: Sanjeet Singh, Mitra Amini, Mohammed Jamshed, Hari Prapan Sharma, Waseem Khan
      Abstract: The purpose of the study is to examine the obstacle in doing business and determinants of credit adoption by the textile enterprises in India. The study is based on World Bank’s Enterprises Survey, there are 571 enterprises involved in textile business. The enterprises survey has response on wide range of business obstacles which are categorized under three broad categories, namely, access to resource, business regulations and market externalities. Chi-square test and analysis of variance (ANOVA) have been used to examine the significant difference among firm’s profile and perceived business obstacles across the firm size. Furthermore, binary logistic regression model has been applied to explore the determinants of credit adoption by textile enterprises. A statistically significant difference has been found in size of firms and legal status nature of establishment, gender of top manager, main product market and credit adoption from financial institutions. Majority of small- and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) are sole proprietorship firm while large enterprises are limited partnership firms. Similarly, large enterprises have relatively more female as a top manager and international market for their product. ANOVA reveals equal degree of obstacles in doing textile business across the firm size. The logistic regression coefficient and marginal effects reveal that firm size, main market,gender of owner, number of establishment in the firms positive and significantly affects the credit adoption by 3 textile enterprises. The study has some policy implications for various stakeholders such as textile business managers and promoters, government, investors and bankers for entrepreneurship development in textile sector. The study suggests that the government should incentivize small- and medium-sized businesses to increase their exports. The results show that despite government efforts to finance SMEs, fewer SMEs are receiving both short- and long-term credit. To help SMEs in the textile industry overcome financial difficulties and expand their main product market to both domestic and international levels, a soft loan should be provided based on the characteristics of textile enterprises. The present study suggests the evidence-based understanding of textile business environment. The value and uniqueness of this study is to explore an ease of business textile sector using comprehensive enterprises survey data of World Bank.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-04-18
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-12-2022-0155
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Enablers of quality of work life of employees in garment industry: an
           integrated hybrid approach of Pareto, SEM and ISM

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      Authors: Vanishree Beloor, T.S. Nanjundeswaraswamy
      Abstract: The purpose of this study is to determine the enablers of the quality of work life (QWL) of employees working in the Garment industries. The study was carried out in a fivefold step. In the first step, the enablers of QWL were identified through an exhaustive literature survey, in the second step identified vital few components through Pareto analysis. Then the third step was followed by exploratory factor analysis (EFA) to further, to identify the precise components and validate the same using confirmatory factor analysis in fourth step. The final step included interpretive structural modeling and Cross-Impact Matrix Multiplication Applied to Classification analysis to model the validated components and determine the interrelationships and linkages. Predominant QWL enablers of employees working in the garment industries are training and development, satisfaction in job, compensation and rewards, relation and co-operation, grievance handling, work environment, job nature, job security and facilities. In this study, the interpretive structural model is designed based on the opinion of the experts who are working in the garment industry considering the responses from employees in garment sectors. The framework can be extended further to the other sectors. In future, the researchers in QWL may develop a model to quantify the level of employees’ QWL who are working in different sectors. Enablers of QWL are essential, and based on this further statistical analysis can be carried out. This study will provide limelight to the researchers in choosing the valid and reliable set of enablers for the empirical studies. Organizations can get benefit by implementing the outcome of this research for the enhancement of the QWL of employees. The study was carried out in 133 garment industries where 851 workers constituted the final valid responses that were considered for analysis. The outcomes from the study help administrators, policy and decision-takers in taking decisions to enhance QWL.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-04-17
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-05-2022-0050
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Appraisal of hand value of denim fabrics

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      Authors: Meenakshi Ahirwar, Bijoya Kumar Behera
      Abstract: Denim fabric has become a wardrobe staple due to its versatility to be worn in a variety of fashions. This paper aims to study denim fabrics to understand their unique hand by developing a hand evaluation system using computational method. Also, the effect of various washes was studied on the hand and surface morphology of denim fabrics. Five different denim samples were manufactured with various washing treatments. The Kawabata Evaluation System was used to measure the low stress mechanical properties. Computation method was used to develop hand equations using multiple regression technique in the MS Excel software. The correlation coefficient analysis was done to determine the authenticity of the developed equations. Five primary hand attributes such as softness, smoothness, fullness, flexibility and stretchability were shortlisted by a panel of judges that influence the fabric handle. The correlation coefficient between subjective and computational total hand values with thermal properties and without thermal properties was 0.88 and 0.85, respectively. The enzymatic wash fabric has the highest total hand value followed by the acid, bleach and stone-washed fabrics. Although the hand evaluation system is available for conventional textiles like suiting and shirting fabrics, the method to predict fabric hand of non-conventional textiles such as denim fabrics remains an unexplored topic. The stresses acting on denim fabrics are completely different. Therefore, to the best of the author’s knowledge, a novel attempt has been made in this research work to develop a computational model to predict the total hand value of denim fabrics.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-04-13
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-11-2022-0136
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • A review of plant-mediated synthesis of zinc oxide nanoparticles for
           self-cleaning textiles

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      Authors: Bekinew Kitaw Dejene, Tsige Mamo Geletaw
      Abstract: The textile industry is evolving toward nanotechnology, which provides materials with self-cleaning properties. This paper aims to provide a thorough explanation of the green synthesis and mechanism of ZnO nanoparticles, with prospective applications of zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) in self-cleaning textiles. This review introduces a green mechanism for the synthesis of ZnO NPs using plant extracts, their self-cleaning properties and the mechanisms of physical, chemical and biological self-cleaning actions for textile applications. ZnO NPs are among the several nanoparticles that are beneficial for self-cleaning textiles because of their exceptional physical and chemical properties, although review publications addressing the use of ZnO NPs in textiles for self-cleaning are uncommon. These results indicate that the plant-synthesized ZnO NPs display excellent biological, physical and chemical self-cleaning properties, the mechanism of which involves photocatalysis, surface roughness and interactions between ZnO NPs and bacterial surfaces. Nanoformulations of plant-synthesized ZnO have been reviewed to achieve promising self-cleaning textile properties and have not been reviewed earlier.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-04-11
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-12-2022-0154
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Modeling of barrier in the adoption of omnichannel marketing: a case of
           Indian handloom industry

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      Authors: M.K.P. Naik, Prabhas Bhardwaj, Vinaytosh Mishra
      Abstract: This study aims to explore the essence of the omnichannel in the handloom industry’s development and to identify, analyse and estimate the barriers obstructing the implementation of the omnichannel in the handloom industry of India. A descriptive literature review and expert opinion are used to identify the barriers obstructing the successful realisation of the omnichannel in the handloom industry of India. Moreover, interpretive structural modeling and the matrix of cross-impact multiplications applied to classification are used to analyse and estimate the impact of these barriers. This research suggests the implementation of the omnichannel is subjected to several barriers, specifically lack of government support and policies, uncertainty in business contract partners, poor reverse logistics system, etc. This research explores the contribution of the handloom industry to the socioeconomic development of the rural and semi-urban Indian population. It also explores the need for government support for the survival and growth of the handloom industry. It also explains how omnichannel can support this industry for its survival and its overall development. Furthermore, factors inhibiting the implementation of the omnichannel in the handloom industry are identified and evaluated based on their over impact.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-04-04
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-11-2022-0139
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Studies on thermal and moisture properties of novel Eri silk knitted
           structures

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      Authors: Gopalakrishnan Palaniappan, Anita Rachel D., Sentilkumar C.B., Selvaraj Senthil Kumar, Senthil Kumar B., Devaki E.
      Abstract: Eri is a short-stapled fibre that possesses an excellent soft feel and warmness to the wearer. Investigation of thermal comfort and moisture properties of Eri silk fabric provides the enhanced commercial scope for Eri silk-based clothing. To examine the impact of process factors on thermal and moisture properties, three different single knit Eri silk structures were made, each with a different loop length and yarn count. Three different linear densities of Eri silk spun yarn (15, 20 and 25 tex) were selected. Three distinct knitted constructions, including plain jersey, popcorn and cellular blister, were created, along with two different loop lengths. The novel cellular blister structure has shown appreciable thermal comfort properties than the other two structures. Yarn fineness and loop length were significant with most of the thermal comfort properties. In recent times the Eri silk production is completely domesticated, so the new demand can easily be met by the producers. This research will create a new scope for Eri silk fibres in sportswear and leisure wear. This study was conducted to explore the influence of knit structure, loop length and yarn count on the thermal comfort properties of the clothing.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-03-28
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-11-2022-0131
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Sustainable supply chain of Indonesia’s textile & apparel industry:
           opportunities and challenges

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      Authors: Vita Sarasi, Ina Primiana, Budi Harsanto, Yayan Satyakti
      Abstract: As a leading sector that has entered the international market, the Indonesian Textile and Apparel (T&A) industry has begun to focus on sustainability issues; however, this study is still limited. This paper aims to conduct a systematic review and explore future research opportunities in developing sustainable supply chain management (SSCM) in the T&A industry in Indonesia, particularly in the small- and medium-sized enterprise (SME) sector. A systematic literature review (SLR) through five academic databases, including Science Direct, IEEE Explore, Scopus, Google Scholar and Web of Science, was conducted and followed by a content analysis of the selected papers. Directions for future research include designing a standardized and sustainable measurement of SSCM performance; analyzing SSCM practices in T&A SMEs through the concept of sustainable entrepreneurs; and exploring the application of a circular economy in the T&A industry, known as circular fashion, which is preferred by the community, affordable and environmentally friendly. This research only used secondary data. In-depth interviews with relevant experts should also be conducted to get a more comprehensive picture of this issue. To the best of the author’s knowledge, this is the first SLR analyzing the implementation of SSCM in the T&A industry in Indonesia.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-03-27
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-08-2022-0091
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Influence of tuck stitches on the physical and mechanical properties of
           knitted fabrics

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      Authors: Elvira Sarybayeva, Meruert Kuramysova, Mirabzal Mukimov, Mukhamejan Shardarbek, Zhansaule Rakhmanova, Kamshat Makhanbetaliyeva, Farkhad Tashmukhamedov, Indira Jurinskaya, Marzhan Kalmakhanova
      Abstract: This study aims to investigate the effects of the number of miss stitches and tuck stitches in the knit structure on the technological parameters and physical and mechanical properties of knitted fabrics. The number of miss stitches and tuck stitches was increased from 3.6% to 8.3%, and the influence of this increase on knitwear properties was analyzed. It was found that an increase from 3.6% to 8.3% leads to a decrease in the stretchability of knitwear in width from 330% to 290% and in length from 112% to 95%. With an increase from 5% to 6.3%, the surface density of knitwear decreases by 11.6 g. And with an increase from 6.3% to 8.3%, the surface density of knitwear decreases by 11.8 g. It was also found that the presence of miss stitches and tuck stitches in the knit structure reduces the material consumption, and the presence of miss stitches increases the shape stability of the knitted fabric. It was concluded that the number of miss stitches and tuck stitches has the strongest influence on surface density, followed by volume density.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-03-22
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-07-2022-0083
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • A new era: 3D printing as an aesthetic language and creative tool in
           fashion and textile design

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      Authors: Nazmiye Tufan Tolmaç, Özlenen Erdem İşmal
      Abstract: This study aims to produce textile-like surfaces using fused deposition modelling (FDM) 3D printers and create a garment collection. Experiments were conducted using different types of materials in FDM 3D printers until the sufficient flexibility was achieved to create textile-like structures. During the research, properties of polylactic acid (PLA), acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) and thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) were observed. Geometrical patterns were printed and each of them gave a different result depending on the pattern. Based on the information obtained from the experiments, a garment collection with four total looks was designed inspired by Vivaldi’s “Four Seasons”. Among the materials used, TPU, a flexible filament, yielded the best results. Because of the rigid properties of PLA and ABS, chain-like structures were printed to create relatively flexible surfaces, but the results were still not successful enough to create a clothing material. Therefore, TPU was preferred for the garment material selection. In this study, combinations of 3D printed flexible structures and different types of fabrics were used to create a garment collection. It was concluded that, with the right material selection, 3D printing can be used as an alternative method to create a new aesthetic language in fashion design.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-03-07
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-05-2022-0058
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Improving some functional utility properties of garment using cross-linked
           acrylic fabrics

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      Authors: Khaled Mohamed Seddik, Lamiaa Khamal El-Gabry, Marwa Atif Ali
      Abstract: This study aims to use hexanediol, pentaerythritol and keratin as crosslinking agents on the acrylic fabric used as garments. Plain 1/1 acrylic fabric was produced with 14 and 11 weft yarn/cm using yarn count 28/2 Ne, then it was modified with different agents, and the effect of crosslinking on some of the inherent properties was determined. The color strength as well as washing fastness was evaluated. The Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy determined the changes that acted in the structure of the treated acrylic fabrics. Several physical and functional utility characteristics were studied such as stiffness, crease recovery, tensile strength and elongation, pilling, air permeability, absorbency and static electricity. Polyacrylonitrile is one of the man-made materials used in the textile field; despite novel characteristics, it has some negative properties, especially in absorbency and pilling, which are improved after treatment. The results presented that the different conditions that were used with cross-linkers enhanced the acrylic fabrics properties. Where analysis of variance test at P-value 0.05 and radar chart area offered that the treated acrylic fabric with 5% (w/v) keratin accomplished the highest preferable properties for end use.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-03-01
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-09-2022-0115
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Creation of smart compression garment using magnetic nanotextiles

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      Authors: Mykola Riabchykov, Liudmyla Nazarchuk, Oksana Tkachuk, Victoria Stytsyuk
      Abstract: This paper aims to prove the expediency and effectiveness of magnetic textiles use obtained by adding nanopowder synthesized on the basis of oxides of divalent and trivalent iron oxides, taking into account bacteriostatic, magnetotherapeutic and compressive properties. The research includes methods of synthesis of nanoelements of bivalent and trivalent iron, methods of the theory of elasticity for determining the pressure between compression clothing and a limb, methods of creating an annular magnetic field with determination of its voltage, methods of determining the growth dynamics of mold bacteria and methods of approximation of experimental data. On the base of the determination of the forces arising from the interaction of magnetic nanotextiles with a magnetic field, the expediency of using these materials in the creation of compression clothing has been proven. An additional medical value of magnetic textiles is the bacteriostatic effect. The content of magnetic nanoelements in the textile composition of 0.2% almost completely suppresses mold infections Cotton samples with the addition of nanocomponents based on ferric and ferric oxides were studied. Magnetotextile materials can be used in magnetotherapy, compression clothing, in textile products that provide bacteriostatic properties. The use of magnetic textile materials is a perspective direction for the creation of medical textile products with complex properties.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-02-08
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-08-2022-0095
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Behavior of parachute under varying in-flight condition – a review

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      Authors: Sudev Dutta, Payal Bansal
      Abstract: The purpose of this review paper is to outline the parachute materials and its behavior. To enhance parachute life, it is highly desirable to consider the commercial angle for any parachute manufacturing industry and its components under varying operational conditions. Hence, the knowledge of various textile materials and operational conditions which contributes the parachute strength and durability will be helpful for industries/researchers. This section is not applicable for a review paper. Parachute is a material used in numerous real-time applications such as man-drop, cargo delivery, aircraft recovery and aircraft decelerator which drastically reduces human efforts and time. However, each application requires a unique design and fabric selection to achieve the area of drag needed and the terminal velocity of the parachute material while in flight. For designing a man-drop parachute, the most critical parameters are weight and strength which must be considered during manufacturing. The army person uses the man-drop parachute, which must be as light as possible. This paper is an original review work and will be helpful for parachute manufacturers/researchers to enhance the life of parachutes with improved functionality.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-01-25
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-06-2022-0063
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Review of effects of COVID-19 pandemic on the textile industry:
           challenges, material innovation and performance

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      Authors: Raphael Kanyire Seidu, Shou-xiang Jiang, Benjamin Tawiah, Richard Acquaye, Ebenezer Kofi Howard
      Abstract: The purpose of this study is to present a systematic review of the effects of COVID-19 on the conventional textile production subsector. The emergence of the COVID-19 virus in 2019 has subsequently caused many problems, such as unemployment, business closures, economic instability and high volatility in the global capital markets amongst others within the wider manufacturing industry including textile production. Relevant secondary data are obtained from the Scopus database and Statista. Based on the data analysis of 21 seed articles, three research themes are identified: challenges in the textile industry, new material innovations or solutions and the textile industry performance. The results reveal that the COVID-19 pandemic has affected the textile industry, disrupted the supply chains of this industry, affected profit margins, stopped employment and impacted the retail of products to customers. Aside from the negative repercussions, there are also good sides to the pandemic which, for instance, range from advanced material innovations to textiles with anti-microbial, self-cleaning and anti-bacterial properties that would limit the transfer of the virus. Findings reinforced the need for effective strategies and investments in the research and development departments of the various firms in the textile industry to innovate operations and novel materials for the next global pandemic. Many companies have adopted novel strategies and practices that are helping them to survive the pandemic. This study, therefore, recommends further investigation into material innovations and reimagining strategies by companies and the supply chain within the textile industry so that it is protected against future crises.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-01-24
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-08-2022-0098
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • A compressive review on different surface finishing of cotton fabrics

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      Authors: Haymanot Enawgaw
      Abstract: The purpose of this paper is to give compiled information on previously applied cotton fabric surface modifications. The paper covered most of the modifications done on cotton fabric to improve its properties or to add some functional properties. The paper presented mostly studied research works that brought a significant surface improvement on cotton fabric. Different previous works on surface modifications of cotton fabrics such as pilling, wrinkle and microbial resistance, hydrophobicity, cationization, flame retardancy and UV-protection characteristics were studied and their methods of modification including the main findings are well reported in this paper. Several modification treatments on surface modification of cotton fabrics indicated an improvement in the desired properties in which the modification is needed. For instance, the pilling tendency, wrinkling, microbial degradation and UV degradation drawbacks of cotton fabric can be overcome through different modification techniques. To the best of the author’s knowledge, there are no compressive documents that covered all the portions presented in this review. The author tried to cover the surface modifications done to improve the main properties of cotton fabric.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-01-19
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-06-2022-0068
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Sericin eco-friendly biomaterial as a spin finish in drawn textured PET
           yarn production

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      Authors: Abolfazl Zare
      Abstract: This paper aims to extracted sericin from the cocoons of Bombyx mori silkworms, and sericin powder was applied onto drawn textured polyethylene terephthalate (PET) yarns as a spin finish. The reactivity on the surface of PET yarns was analyzed through Fourier transform infrared spectrophotometry–attenuated total reflectance (FTIR-ATR) and dyeing with methylene blue as a reactive dye. Also, investigations were conducted on the effects of sericin, citrc acid (CA) (as a crosslinking agent), and sodium hypophosphite (as a catalyst) concentrations on some properties of false-twist textured PET yarns. A false-twist texturing machine (Scragg-Shirley minibulk, England) was used with the draw ratio of 1.05, heating temperature of 120°C, texturing speed of 100 m min−1 and applied twist of 3,000 TPM. The aqueous extraction of sericin was carried out by the boiling of the raw silk in distilled water with L:R: 40:1 for 120 min. The aqueous solution was filtered with a filter paper to remove the impurities and insoluble fibroin. Finally, the sericin solution was freeze-dried to obtain the sericin powder. The sericin solution was applied on the drawn textured PET yarns using the “pad-dry-cure” method. Sericin fixation onto the PET yarns was confirmed by FTIR-ATR. The results showed that there were no significant changes in the tensile strength, linear density, crimp contraction and crimp modulus, elongation at break and shrinkage. In contrast, a substantial increase was observed in moisture regain, vertical wicking, dye uptake and ultraviolet protection. There was also a reduction just in the electrical resistivity, in the presence of sericin. Although sericin has been known to have numerous beneficial properties, its application in textile industry as a spin finish has not been reported yet.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-01-19
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-07-2022-0086
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • An exploratory study of Swedish and Romanian organisations to investigate
           upcycling practice in the clothing industry

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      Authors: Manoj Kumar Paras, Rudrajeet Pal, Daniel Ekwall
      Abstract: The process of redesigning is one of the essential steps in upcycling, which comprises ideation, reconstruction and fitting. This paper aims to study the best practice of upcycling in the clothing industry. This study is an attempt to standardise upcycling/redesign process. An exploratory approach was adopted to perform the research. This study draws on the multiple organisations involved in the upcycling of clothes. The organisations chosen for this study are located in Sweden and Romania using the snowball technique. Semi-structured interviews, direct and participatory observation approaches were used to collect information. The collected data are systematically analysed using NVivo 10 software. This paper provides empirical insights into the diverse practices of upcycling. Process, product and demand-based were three fundamental approaches to performing the redesigning process. The fabric quality and durability, variations in size, colour and pattern, skills and efforts required in the extraction of parts and environmental consciousness and awareness were the main factors influencing upcycling process. The use of the European case may miss best practices from the other region. This study may help scholars to understand the method of upcycling. A practitioner of upcycling can use the findings to improve and standardise the existing process. This research is beneficial for society, as this leads to the reduction of textile wastage. This paper conceptualises some of the best practices of clothes redesign. This provides a good insight for the organisation for the improvement in the redesign business.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-01-12
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-04-2022-0048
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Development of a risk model for different innovator types in textile and
           apparel industries

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      Authors: Udeni Kumarapeli, Vijitha Ratnayake, Sanath Siroshana Jayawardana
      Abstract: Technological innovation is one of the strongest driving forces in the survival and growth of any organization, including textile and apparel industries. However, technological innovation inherits a wide array of risks due to the uncertainty involved in it. In-depth research reveals the existence of a significant relationship between innovation failures and the approach used to innovate, that is, the organization’s innovator type. However, quantitative evidence supporting this concern is still lacking. Hence, the purpose of this paper is to bridge the existing gap in the literature on effective management of technological innovation risk factors and the innovator type of textile and apparel industries. The risk factors related to technological innovations are identified under different innovator types. Analytic network process (ANP) has been used to evaluate the contribution of risk factors according to the innovator type of the organization. Data was gathered through the literature review and structured and semi structured interviews with textile and apparel industry experts. The contribution of risk factors was determined through priorities, derived according to the ANP using Super Decision software. Contribution of risk factors takes different values according to innovator type. This provides comprehensive knowledge on developing a risk management strategy according to the innovator type of the organization. Furthermore, this provides insight into the fact that a generalized risk management strategy will not be effective and sensible for all innovator types. The findings provide a thorough understanding of developing a customized risk management strategy by determining the “most to least” criticality of risks based on the innovator type of the organization. Furthermore, findings can be used to adopt the most appropriate innovator type based on the organization’s key competencies. Moreover, this guides the organization in making the best use of internal resources during risk management. Furthermore, this provides insight into the risk factors that must be addressed prior to embarking on new innovative approaches.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-01-12
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-10-2022-0122
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Fabrication of fabric-like bacterial cellulose/activated carbon membrane
           for filtering layer applications of face masks by using textile padding
           method

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      Authors: Hung Ngoc Phan, Huong Mai Bui, Nguyen Khanh Vu
      Abstract: Bacterial cellulose (BC) is an ideal alternative filtering material. However, current functionalization approaches for BC have not been fully discovered industrially as well as academically applying textile processing. This study aims to create a sustainable fabric-like membrane made of BC/activated carbon (AC) for applications in filtration using textile padding method, to protect people from respiratory pandemics. Fabric-like BC is first mechanically dehydrated then AC is loaded via a textile padding step. The finishing efficacy, properties of fabric-like BC/AC and NaOH pretreatment are analyzed and characterized by scanning electron microscope (SEM), field emission scanning electron microscope (FE SEM), X-ray diffraction (XRD), CIELab color space, color strength (K/S), nitrogen adsorption-desorption isotherm including Brunauer–Emmett–Teller (BET) specific surface area and Barrett–Joyner–Halenda (BJH) pore size and volume. This research results in a fabric-like BC/AC with pore diameters of 3.407 ± 0.310 nm, specific surface area of 115.28 m2/g and an efficient scalable padding process, which uses 8 times less amount of chemical and nearly 30 times shorter treating duration than conventional methods. Our globe is now consuming an alarming amount of non-degradable disposable masks resulting in massive trash buildup as a future environmental problem. Besides, current disposable masks requiring a significant upfront technological investment have posed challenges in human protection from respiratory diseases, especially for countries with limited conditions. By combining a sustainable material (BC) with popular padding method of textile industry, the fabric-like BC/AC will offer sustainable and practical values for both humankind and nature. This research has offered an effective padding process to functionalize BC, and a unique fabric-like BC/AC membrane for filtration applications.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-01-05
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-06-2022-0071
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Can garment production survive in a developed economy in the 21st century'
           A study of “Made in Ireland”

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      Authors: Miriam Keegan, Sheng Lu
      Abstract: Given the heated academic and policy debate regarding the fate of garment manufacturing in a high-wage developed economy in the 21st century, this study aims to explore the production and export strategies of apparel “Made in Ireland.” A logistic regression analysis of 4,000 apparel items at the stock keeping unit (SKU) level sold in the market from January 2018 to December 2021 was conducted to evaluate the production and export strategy of apparel “Made in Ireland” versus foreign-made imported items sold in Ireland. The statistical results showed that Ireland’s apparel manufacturing sector survived the market competition by leveraging non-price competing factors, such as distinct product assortment, cultural heritage, history and traditional craftsmanship. The findings challenged the conclusions of the classic trade and economic development theories regarding the trajectory of the garment manufacturing sector and called for a rethink about the strategies for expanding garment manufacturing in a high-wage developed country in today’s global economy.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-01-05
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-09-2022-0113
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • Study of lawsone and its modified disperse dyes derived by triple cascade
           reaction: dyeing performance on nylon and polyester fabrics

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      Authors: Nilam C. Patel, Dipen H. Desai, Paresh N. Patel
      Abstract: This paper aims to develop a novel protocol for the synthesis of disperse dyes derived by a triple cascade reaction with lawsone in presence of Zn acetate as a catalyst. The developed novel scaffolds have efficient dyeing properties on nylon and polyester fibers. This report demonstrates an effectual triple cascade protocol for the synthesis of novel disperse dyes derived from various polynuclear carbaldehyde, urea and lawsone. The Zn acetate was found to be an effective catalyst for this reaction. Their dyeing performance has been studied on nylon and polyester fabrics. The wash fastness, sublimation fastness, color assessment, determination of percentage exhaustion and fixation properties were applied to both the dyed fabrics. The obtained results indicate that the Zn acetate is an efficient catalyst for the developed triple cascade protocol. The prepared novel disperse dye greatly impacted their dyeing properties on nylon and polyester fibers. They have shown brilliant shades, higher affinity, adsorption capacity, superior tinctorial strength than the lawsone. The percentage exhaustion value, fixation value, color strength (K/s) value, washing and sublimation fastness properties have been found very well in all dyed nylon samples compared to polyester samples. These results discloses that these disperses dyes are very useful to the growing importance of nylon and polyester fibers. The present protocol synthesizes the racemic mixture of the prepared molecules. Developed protocol can be used for various other triple cascade processes. Also these molecules can be used for dyeing of other fabrics. With the help of commercialization of prepared molecules, it may provide the better alternative of the current disperse dyes. This may affect the various segments of society. This report represents a novel protocol for the synthesis of modified novel disperse dyes with an efficient dyeing properties on nylon and polyester fibers.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-01-03
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-08-2022-0093
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
  • The use of textile materials for respiratory protection in times of
           pandemics: a systematic review and analysis

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      Authors: Ana Aline Mendes Paim, Morgana Carneiro de Andrade, Fernanda Steffens
      Abstract: Given the COVID-19 Pandemic outbreak and the role of medical textiles for protection, this study aims to identify the leading research foci on using textile materials for personal protection in pandemic situations. A systematic review and systemic analysis of the literature on the subject were performed using the process knowledge development – constructivist (ProKnow-C) methodology. A bibliographic portfolio with 16 relevant studies was obtained. This portfolio represents the main focus of this research field, including the main filtration mechanisms, ways of disinfecting N95 respirators and proposed methods to evaluate the filtration efficiency of different materials with potential for mask development. To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this is the first time the ProKnow-C methodology was used in the textile field. Thus, future studies can benefit from using the Proknow-C for selecting and analyzing relevant textile studies following a systematic approach.
      Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
      PubDate: 2023-01-02
      DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-04-2022-0041
      Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
       
 
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  Subjects -> TEXTILE INDUSTRIES AND FABRICS (Total: 41 journals)
    - CLOTHING TECHNOLOGY AND TRADE (6 journals)
    - TEXTILE INDUSTRIES AND FABRICS (35 journals)

TEXTILE INDUSTRIES AND FABRICS (35 journals)

Showing 1 - 16 of 16 Journals sorted by number of followers
Composites Science and Technology     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 177)
Textile History     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 16)
International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 16)
Fashion Practice : The Journal of Design, Creative Process & the Fashion     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 14)
Fashion and Textiles     Open Access   (Followers: 14)
Third Text     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 13)
Textile Research Journal     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 11)
International Journal of Textile Science     Open Access   (Followers: 8)
Journal of the Textile Institute     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 7)
Asian Journal of Textile     Open Access   (Followers: 7)
Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice     Full-text available via subscription   (Followers: 7)
Journal of Natural Fibers     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 6)
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research (IJFTR)     Open Access   (Followers: 6)
Journal of Fashion Technology & Textile Engineering     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 6)
Geotextiles and Geomembranes     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 5)
Text and Performance Quarterly     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 5)
Geosynthetics International     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 4)
Journal of Industrial Textiles     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 4)
Fibers     Open Access   (Followers: 4)
Research Journal of Textile and Apparel     Full-text available via subscription   (Followers: 4)
Journal of Textiles and Fibrous Materials     Full-text available via subscription   (Followers: 4)
Focus on Pigments     Full-text available via subscription   (Followers: 3)
Textile Progress     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 3)
Journal of Textile Science & Engineering     Open Access   (Followers: 3)
Fibre Chemistry     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 2)
Journal of The Institution of Engineers (India) : Series E     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 2)
Wearables     Open Access   (Followers: 2)
Autex Research Journal     Open Access   (Followers: 1)
Achiote.com - Revista Eletrônica de Moda     Open Access   (Followers: 1)
Journal of Leather Science and Engineering     Open Access  
Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics     Open Access  
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JournalTOCs
School of Mathematical and Computer Sciences
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