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Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
Journal Prestige (SJR): 0.1  Number of Followers: 4  Subscription journalISSN (Print) 1560-6074 - ISSN (Online) 2515-8090 Published by Emerald  [362 journals]
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- Human factor analysis of error detection and correction in hand-knotted
carpet production process-
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Authors: Gagan Deep Kaur
Abstract: The paper aims to discuss error detection and correction in Kashmiri carpet weaving (KCW), mediated by cryptographic code, Talim which is held to guarantee accurate information transference from designing to weaving, even after hundred years. Yet, carpets often show errors on completion. Human factors analysis revealed error emergence, detection and correction in this practice whose task domains are distributed over large geographies (from in-premises to several kilometers) and timescales (from days to decades). Using prospective observation method, production process of two research carpets from their design, coding and weaving was observed while noting the errors made, identified and corrected by actors in each phase. The errors were found to emerge, identified and corrected during different phases of designing, coding and weaving while giving rise to fresh errors in each phase, due to actors’ normal work routines. In view of this, usual branding of “weaver-error” behind flawed carpet turns out to be misplaced value judgment passed in hindsight.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-06-05
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-10-2022-0124
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- The mediating role of self-efficacy in the relationship between job
satisfaction and commitment of employees working in the textile industry-
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Authors: T.S. Nanjundeswaraswamy, Nagesh P., Sindu Bharath, Vignesh K.M.
Abstract: This study aims to explore the mediating role of self-efficacy and the relationship between job satisfaction and employee commitment. The study is designed based on social cognitive theory. To collect the data, survey method is used in the present study. Questionnaires were distributed to the 75 randomly selected textile industry registered and located in Bengaluru city, India. Employees of 71 organizations participated in the survey. Out of 700 employees who received the email survey, 452 valid responses were considered for the data analysis. To examine the defined research hypothesis, a structural equation model is used. The mediating analysis explored that the direct effect is 0.700, the indirect effect is 0.1730 and the total effect is 0.8731; it indicated that self-efficacy mediates the relationship between job satisfaction and employee commitment. Research also reveals that there is a positive relationship between self-efficacy, employee commitment and job satisfaction of employees working in the textile industry. The proposed measurement model statistics are as follows: CMIN = 2.322; df = 49; GFI = 0.958; AGFI = 0.934; NFI = 0.943; RFI = 0.923; IFI = 0.967; TLI = 0.955; CFI = 0.966. All these indices were nearer to unity. The research findings provide insights to the management, practitioners and employers about the status of job satisfaction, self-efficacy and commitment of employees in textile organizations which will help make the strategies to increase the overall performance of the organization by enhancing the levels of job satisfaction, self-efficacy and commitment of textile industry employees. To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this is the first study that tests the relationship among self-efficacy, job satisfaction and the mediating effect of self-efficacy of employees in Indian textile industries.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-06-02
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-01-2023-0002
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- Eco-friendly materials knitting by different yarn ply for high-performance
garments-
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Authors: Heba Tolla El Sayed Abo El Naga, Manar Yahia Ismail Abd El-Aziz
Abstract: Synthetic materials have many drawbacks in high-performance garments because they absorb less moisture and cause allergies to sensitive individuals. Cotton materials cannot satisfy all the requirements and cannot provide the required high performance. This study aims to use eco-friendly materials with a common structure to analyse their suitability for high-performance garment application. This study used two eco-friendly yarns (bamboo, modal and bamboo: modal 50:50) and yarns per needle (two- and four-ply yarns). with a single jersey knit construction and gauge of 7. The physical, mechanical, appearance, comfort, thermal and ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) protection characteristics were evaluated using 15 tests. The produced knitted fabrics showed high performance for use as garments with physical, mechanical, appearance, comfort, thermal and UPF protection characteristics that were achieved, tested and analysed. The highest-achieved samples with a good UPF (
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-06-02
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-03-2023-0038
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- Investigation of the effect of preparation processes on CO laser-faded
denim fabric quality-
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Authors: Tuna Uysaler, Pelin Altay, Gülay Özcan
Abstract: In the denim industry, enzyme washing and its combination with stone washing are generally used to get the desired worn-out look. However, these conventional methods include high water, energy and time consumption. Nowadays, laser fading, which is a computer-controlled, dry, ecological finishing method, is preferred in the denim fading process. The purpose of this study is to observe the effects of chemical pretreatment applications on laser-faded denim fabric in terms of color and mechanical properties. To eliminate the enzyme washing process in denim fading and to minimize the disadvantages of laser fading, such as decreased mechanical properties and increased fabric yellowness, various chemical pretreatment applications were applied to the denim fabric before laser fading, followed by simple rinsing instead of enzyme washing. Two different indigo-dyed, organic cotton denim fabrics with different unit weights were exposed to pretreatment processes and then laser treatment, followed by simple rinsing. Polysilicic acid, boric acid, borax and bicarbonate were used for pretreatment processes, and laser treatment was carried out under optimized laser parameters (40 dpi resolution and 300 µs pixel time). Tensile strength was tested, and color values (CIE L*, a*, b*, ΔE*, C* and h), color yield (K/S), yellowness and whiteness indexes were measured to identify the color differences. Before laser fading, 30 g/L and 40 g/L polysilicic acid pretreatments for sulfur-indigo-dyed fabric and a mixture of 10 g/L boric acid and 10 g/L borax pretreatments for the fabric only indigo-dyed were recommended for the laser fading with sufficient mechanical properties and good color values. With the chemical pretreatments defined in this study, it was possible to reduce yellowness and maintain the mechanical properties after laser fading, thus minimizing the disadvantages of laser treatment and also eliminating enzyme washing.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-05-24
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-01-2023-0014
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- Manufacturing of window shutters from cotton waste fabrics for sustainable
textiles-
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Authors: Soliyana Gebeyaw, Kura Alemayehu Beyene, Eradu Seid, Zemzem Mustofa, Gideon K. Rotich
Abstract: This study aims to manufacture alternative window shutters using waste cotton fabrics by stiffening using polyvinyl acetate (PVA) with vinyl acrylic binder solutions. The manufactured fabrics were evaluated for their tensile strength, drapeability, bending length by weight and color fastness to light. And finally, an analysis of variance was done for each parameter. As the percent of PVA with a vinyl acrylic solution and the number of layers increased, the tensile strength, drape coefficient (percent), bending length (cm), and color fastness to light increased in both directions. The percent of PVA with a vinyl acrylic solution and the number of layers are statistically significant for each response such as tensile strength, drape coefficient (percent), bending length (cm), color fastness to light and water repellency at a 95% confidence interval. Tensile strength, drape coefficient (%) and bending length (cm) are always greater in the warp direction than in the weft direction. The tensile strength, drape coefficient (percent), bending length (cm) and color fastness to light of treated fabrics samples are greater than those of the untreated fabrics. The factory waste fabrics can be recycled into window shutters which will provide the cheaper raw material for window shutter manufacturers.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-05-19
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-09-2022-0117
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- Developing a holistic sensory evaluation three-part method for textiles
and apparel: a practical application for novel materials and products-
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Authors: Armine Ghalachyan, Elena Karpova, Anastasia Frattali
Abstract: This study aims to propose and demonstrate a practical application of a new three-part holistic sensory evaluation (HSE) method for textiles and apparel based on the senses of sight, touch, hearing and smell. HSE method development was carefully documented, described and successfully applied to evaluate sensory characteristics and consumer perceptions and acceptance of bacterial cellulose (BC), a novel sustainable material for apparel. In Part One of the HSE method, research participants described the material in their own words based on the senses of sight, touch, hearing and smell. In Part Two, they rated the intensities and their linking for 25 predetermined attributes describing BC. Part Three measured participants’ overall liking of BC and its perceived suitability for apparel and accessories. Application of the HSE method resulted in an in-depth understanding of BC material. Areas for material improvements and positive characteristics were identified, providing direction for further development. Consumers found BC suitable for accessories and outer-layer garments but not for apparel. Sensory evaluation of textiles and apparel has traditionally focused on the senses of touch and sight. The new HSE method allows evaluating the full range of sensory characteristics of materials/products and holistically assessing consumer perceptions. The method is especially useful for novel materials and wearable technology. BC has gained increased interests as a novel sustainable material, yet consumer studies have been lacking. This study reports a comprehensive evaluation of BC material from consumer perspective.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-05-09
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-11-2022-0138
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- What drives the profitability of Indian handloom enterprises' An insight
based on the seemingly unrelated regression model-
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Authors: Bijoy Kumar Dey, Ujjwal Kanti Paul
Abstract: This study aims to extend the discussion on firm profitability to include handloom enterprises in India. This study uses a random sample of 427 handloom microentrepreneurs from the Indian state of Assam. The seemingly unrelated regression model is used to determine the profitability drivers in India’s handloom enterprises. The empirical results revealed that human, financial and social capital, along with their control variables such as information and communication technology, firm size and sales distribution, are the main drivers of profitability of Indian handloom enterprises. To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this study is the first to offer an in-depth insight into what makes profitability in the handloom enterprises in India, the world’s second-largest reservoir of the handloom industry.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-05-05
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-07-2022-0085
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- Are handloom micro-enterprises in India efficient' Estimation based on DEA
and bootstrap truncated regression approach-
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Authors: Bijoy Kumar Dey, Ujjwal Kanti Paul, Gurudas Das
Abstract: Although handloom is a significant source of livelihood for millions of people in India, it performs poorly compared to other sectors of the economy, which may be the root of technical inefficiency. Until now, to measure technical efficiency, no studies have been carried out; therefore, the purpose of this study is to estimate the technical efficiency in the handloom micro-enterprises in India. This study includes 427 handloom micro-entrepreneurs from the Indian state of Assam. Using bootstrap truncated regression, the data envelopment analysis (DEA) was used to calculate the technical efficiency and identify the factors responsible for inefficiency. The findings of this study reveal that handloom enterprises are 75% pure technically efficient, suggesting room for input reduction. The bootstrap truncated regression results show that education, prior experience, modern technology, ICT, bank loan, training, gender and location significantly influence the technical efficiency of handloom enterprises. Despite recent advances in the DEA method, this study used a traditional form of DEA. This study used only one output and a limited set of inputs. Better results could have been obtained by expanding the number of inputs and output. Finally, the data for this study has been obtained from a very narrow geographic area. The production practices of the handloom enterprises in other parts of the region and other states might vary considerably. Technical efficiency measurement has management implications for businesses because it allows entrepreneurs to determine how much less input is required to produce the same output. A meticulous analysis can pinpoint the causes of inefficiency. This paper aims to make two significant contributions to the extant literature. First, to the best of the authors’ knowledge, no published document has analyzed the technical efficiency of handloom micro-enterprises anywhere in the world. The authors fill this void by systematically analyzing the technical efficiency of the handloom industry in Assam.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-05-05
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-09-2022-0105
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- A conceptual appraisal towards the contextualization of product and
process innovation in clothing manufacturing-
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Authors: Duncan Kariuki Ndwiga, Lucy Wanjiru Ciera, Geoffrey Ngugi Mokabi
Abstract: This study aims to address the aspects of product and process innovation strategies and their determining factors to understand their characteristics in clothing manufacturing and contribution for a successful and competitive clothing industry. This general review is based on literature data of previous studies on innovation that transcend and cover the aspects of innovation applicable in the clothing industry. Although the scope of discussion is theoretically broad, it focusses on the context of innovation strategies in clothing manufacturing and the determinant factors indicating the acquisition and implementation of product and process-related innovation activities, simultaneously exploring and linking their implications for adopting, managing and integrating enterprise activities to the values of desired innovation novel models. Based on theoretical background and pragmatic generalizations, product and process innovation strategies in clothing manufacturing firms tend to incline more towards computer-integrated technologies and concepts meant to promote product development, process optimization and organizational integration. Industry, technological and R&D factors tend to significantly determine innovation capability of a clothing firm. This review generates integrated conceptual frameworks for product and process innovation strategies applicable in clothing firms and their determinant factors as prelude to empirical validation.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-04-21
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-07-2022-0080
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- Understanding the perceived business obstacles and determinants of credit
adoption by textile firms: evidences from World Bank’s enterprises
survey-
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Authors: Sanjeet Singh, Mitra Amini, Mohammed Jamshed, Hari Prapan Sharma, Waseem Khan
Abstract: The purpose of the study is to examine the obstacle in doing business and determinants of credit adoption by the textile enterprises in India. The study is based on World Bank’s Enterprises Survey, there are 571 enterprises involved in textile business. The enterprises survey has response on wide range of business obstacles which are categorized under three broad categories, namely, access to resource, business regulations and market externalities. Chi-square test and analysis of variance (ANOVA) have been used to examine the significant difference among firm’s profile and perceived business obstacles across the firm size. Furthermore, binary logistic regression model has been applied to explore the determinants of credit adoption by textile enterprises. A statistically significant difference has been found in size of firms and legal status nature of establishment, gender of top manager, main product market and credit adoption from financial institutions. Majority of small- and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) are sole proprietorship firm while large enterprises are limited partnership firms. Similarly, large enterprises have relatively more female as a top manager and international market for their product. ANOVA reveals equal degree of obstacles in doing textile business across the firm size. The logistic regression coefficient and marginal effects reveal that firm size, main market,gender of owner, number of establishment in the firms positive and significantly affects the credit adoption by 3 textile enterprises. The study has some policy implications for various stakeholders such as textile business managers and promoters, government, investors and bankers for entrepreneurship development in textile sector. The study suggests that the government should incentivize small- and medium-sized businesses to increase their exports. The results show that despite government efforts to finance SMEs, fewer SMEs are receiving both short- and long-term credit. To help SMEs in the textile industry overcome financial difficulties and expand their main product market to both domestic and international levels, a soft loan should be provided based on the characteristics of textile enterprises. The present study suggests the evidence-based understanding of textile business environment. The value and uniqueness of this study is to explore an ease of business textile sector using comprehensive enterprises survey data of World Bank.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-04-18
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-12-2022-0155
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- Enablers of quality of work life of employees in garment industry: an
integrated hybrid approach of Pareto, SEM and ISM-
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Authors: Vanishree Beloor, T.S. Nanjundeswaraswamy
Abstract: The purpose of this study is to determine the enablers of the quality of work life (QWL) of employees working in the Garment industries. The study was carried out in a fivefold step. In the first step, the enablers of QWL were identified through an exhaustive literature survey, in the second step identified vital few components through Pareto analysis. Then the third step was followed by exploratory factor analysis (EFA) to further, to identify the precise components and validate the same using confirmatory factor analysis in fourth step. The final step included interpretive structural modeling and Cross-Impact Matrix Multiplication Applied to Classification analysis to model the validated components and determine the interrelationships and linkages. Predominant QWL enablers of employees working in the garment industries are training and development, satisfaction in job, compensation and rewards, relation and co-operation, grievance handling, work environment, job nature, job security and facilities. In this study, the interpretive structural model is designed based on the opinion of the experts who are working in the garment industry considering the responses from employees in garment sectors. The framework can be extended further to the other sectors. In future, the researchers in QWL may develop a model to quantify the level of employees’ QWL who are working in different sectors. Enablers of QWL are essential, and based on this further statistical analysis can be carried out. This study will provide limelight to the researchers in choosing the valid and reliable set of enablers for the empirical studies. Organizations can get benefit by implementing the outcome of this research for the enhancement of the QWL of employees. The study was carried out in 133 garment industries where 851 workers constituted the final valid responses that were considered for analysis. The outcomes from the study help administrators, policy and decision-takers in taking decisions to enhance QWL.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-04-17
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-05-2022-0050
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- Appraisal of hand value of denim fabrics
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Authors: Meenakshi Ahirwar, Bijoya Kumar Behera
Abstract: Denim fabric has become a wardrobe staple due to its versatility to be worn in a variety of fashions. This paper aims to study denim fabrics to understand their unique hand by developing a hand evaluation system using computational method. Also, the effect of various washes was studied on the hand and surface morphology of denim fabrics. Five different denim samples were manufactured with various washing treatments. The Kawabata Evaluation System was used to measure the low stress mechanical properties. Computation method was used to develop hand equations using multiple regression technique in the MS Excel software. The correlation coefficient analysis was done to determine the authenticity of the developed equations. Five primary hand attributes such as softness, smoothness, fullness, flexibility and stretchability were shortlisted by a panel of judges that influence the fabric handle. The correlation coefficient between subjective and computational total hand values with thermal properties and without thermal properties was 0.88 and 0.85, respectively. The enzymatic wash fabric has the highest total hand value followed by the acid, bleach and stone-washed fabrics. Although the hand evaluation system is available for conventional textiles like suiting and shirting fabrics, the method to predict fabric hand of non-conventional textiles such as denim fabrics remains an unexplored topic. The stresses acting on denim fabrics are completely different. Therefore, to the best of the author’s knowledge, a novel attempt has been made in this research work to develop a computational model to predict the total hand value of denim fabrics.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-04-13
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-11-2022-0136
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- A review of plant-mediated synthesis of zinc oxide nanoparticles for
self-cleaning textiles-
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Authors: Bekinew Kitaw Dejene, Tsige Mamo Geletaw
Abstract: The textile industry is evolving toward nanotechnology, which provides materials with self-cleaning properties. This paper aims to provide a thorough explanation of the green synthesis and mechanism of ZnO nanoparticles, with prospective applications of zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) in self-cleaning textiles. This review introduces a green mechanism for the synthesis of ZnO NPs using plant extracts, their self-cleaning properties and the mechanisms of physical, chemical and biological self-cleaning actions for textile applications. ZnO NPs are among the several nanoparticles that are beneficial for self-cleaning textiles because of their exceptional physical and chemical properties, although review publications addressing the use of ZnO NPs in textiles for self-cleaning are uncommon. These results indicate that the plant-synthesized ZnO NPs display excellent biological, physical and chemical self-cleaning properties, the mechanism of which involves photocatalysis, surface roughness and interactions between ZnO NPs and bacterial surfaces. Nanoformulations of plant-synthesized ZnO have been reviewed to achieve promising self-cleaning textile properties and have not been reviewed earlier.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-04-11
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-12-2022-0154
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- Modeling of barrier in the adoption of omnichannel marketing: a case of
Indian handloom industry-
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Authors: M.K.P. Naik, Prabhas Bhardwaj, Vinaytosh Mishra
Abstract: This study aims to explore the essence of the omnichannel in the handloom industry’s development and to identify, analyse and estimate the barriers obstructing the implementation of the omnichannel in the handloom industry of India. A descriptive literature review and expert opinion are used to identify the barriers obstructing the successful realisation of the omnichannel in the handloom industry of India. Moreover, interpretive structural modeling and the matrix of cross-impact multiplications applied to classification are used to analyse and estimate the impact of these barriers. This research suggests the implementation of the omnichannel is subjected to several barriers, specifically lack of government support and policies, uncertainty in business contract partners, poor reverse logistics system, etc. This research explores the contribution of the handloom industry to the socioeconomic development of the rural and semi-urban Indian population. It also explores the need for government support for the survival and growth of the handloom industry. It also explains how omnichannel can support this industry for its survival and its overall development. Furthermore, factors inhibiting the implementation of the omnichannel in the handloom industry are identified and evaluated based on their over impact.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-04-04
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-11-2022-0139
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- Studies on thermal and moisture properties of novel Eri silk knitted
structures-
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Authors: Gopalakrishnan Palaniappan, Anita Rachel D., Sentilkumar C.B., Selvaraj Senthil Kumar, Senthil Kumar B., Devaki E.
Abstract: Eri is a short-stapled fibre that possesses an excellent soft feel and warmness to the wearer. Investigation of thermal comfort and moisture properties of Eri silk fabric provides the enhanced commercial scope for Eri silk-based clothing. To examine the impact of process factors on thermal and moisture properties, three different single knit Eri silk structures were made, each with a different loop length and yarn count. Three different linear densities of Eri silk spun yarn (15, 20 and 25 tex) were selected. Three distinct knitted constructions, including plain jersey, popcorn and cellular blister, were created, along with two different loop lengths. The novel cellular blister structure has shown appreciable thermal comfort properties than the other two structures. Yarn fineness and loop length were significant with most of the thermal comfort properties. In recent times the Eri silk production is completely domesticated, so the new demand can easily be met by the producers. This research will create a new scope for Eri silk fibres in sportswear and leisure wear. This study was conducted to explore the influence of knit structure, loop length and yarn count on the thermal comfort properties of the clothing.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-03-28
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-11-2022-0131
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- Sustainable supply chain of Indonesia’s textile & apparel industry:
opportunities and challenges-
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Authors: Vita Sarasi, Ina Primiana, Budi Harsanto, Yayan Satyakti
Abstract: As a leading sector that has entered the international market, the Indonesian Textile and Apparel (T&A) industry has begun to focus on sustainability issues; however, this study is still limited. This paper aims to conduct a systematic review and explore future research opportunities in developing sustainable supply chain management (SSCM) in the T&A industry in Indonesia, particularly in the small- and medium-sized enterprise (SME) sector. A systematic literature review (SLR) through five academic databases, including Science Direct, IEEE Explore, Scopus, Google Scholar and Web of Science, was conducted and followed by a content analysis of the selected papers. Directions for future research include designing a standardized and sustainable measurement of SSCM performance; analyzing SSCM practices in T&A SMEs through the concept of sustainable entrepreneurs; and exploring the application of a circular economy in the T&A industry, known as circular fashion, which is preferred by the community, affordable and environmentally friendly. This research only used secondary data. In-depth interviews with relevant experts should also be conducted to get a more comprehensive picture of this issue. To the best of the author’s knowledge, this is the first SLR analyzing the implementation of SSCM in the T&A industry in Indonesia.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-03-27
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-08-2022-0091
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- Influence of tuck stitches on the physical and mechanical properties of
knitted fabrics-
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Authors: Elvira Sarybayeva, Meruert Kuramysova, Mirabzal Mukimov, Mukhamejan Shardarbek, Zhansaule Rakhmanova, Kamshat Makhanbetaliyeva, Farkhad Tashmukhamedov, Indira Jurinskaya, Marzhan Kalmakhanova
Abstract: This study aims to investigate the effects of the number of miss stitches and tuck stitches in the knit structure on the technological parameters and physical and mechanical properties of knitted fabrics. The number of miss stitches and tuck stitches was increased from 3.6% to 8.3%, and the influence of this increase on knitwear properties was analyzed. It was found that an increase from 3.6% to 8.3% leads to a decrease in the stretchability of knitwear in width from 330% to 290% and in length from 112% to 95%. With an increase from 5% to 6.3%, the surface density of knitwear decreases by 11.6 g. And with an increase from 6.3% to 8.3%, the surface density of knitwear decreases by 11.8 g. It was also found that the presence of miss stitches and tuck stitches in the knit structure reduces the material consumption, and the presence of miss stitches increases the shape stability of the knitted fabric. It was concluded that the number of miss stitches and tuck stitches has the strongest influence on surface density, followed by volume density.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-03-22
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-07-2022-0083
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- A new era: 3D printing as an aesthetic language and creative tool in
fashion and textile design-
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Authors: Nazmiye Tufan Tolmaç, Özlenen Erdem İşmal
Abstract: This study aims to produce textile-like surfaces using fused deposition modelling (FDM) 3D printers and create a garment collection. Experiments were conducted using different types of materials in FDM 3D printers until the sufficient flexibility was achieved to create textile-like structures. During the research, properties of polylactic acid (PLA), acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) and thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) were observed. Geometrical patterns were printed and each of them gave a different result depending on the pattern. Based on the information obtained from the experiments, a garment collection with four total looks was designed inspired by Vivaldi’s “Four Seasons”. Among the materials used, TPU, a flexible filament, yielded the best results. Because of the rigid properties of PLA and ABS, chain-like structures were printed to create relatively flexible surfaces, but the results were still not successful enough to create a clothing material. Therefore, TPU was preferred for the garment material selection. In this study, combinations of 3D printed flexible structures and different types of fabrics were used to create a garment collection. It was concluded that, with the right material selection, 3D printing can be used as an alternative method to create a new aesthetic language in fashion design.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-03-07
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-05-2022-0058
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- Improving some functional utility properties of garment using cross-linked
acrylic fabrics-
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Authors: Khaled Mohamed Seddik, Lamiaa Khamal El-Gabry, Marwa Atif Ali
Abstract: This study aims to use hexanediol, pentaerythritol and keratin as crosslinking agents on the acrylic fabric used as garments. Plain 1/1 acrylic fabric was produced with 14 and 11 weft yarn/cm using yarn count 28/2 Ne, then it was modified with different agents, and the effect of crosslinking on some of the inherent properties was determined. The color strength as well as washing fastness was evaluated. The Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy determined the changes that acted in the structure of the treated acrylic fabrics. Several physical and functional utility characteristics were studied such as stiffness, crease recovery, tensile strength and elongation, pilling, air permeability, absorbency and static electricity. Polyacrylonitrile is one of the man-made materials used in the textile field; despite novel characteristics, it has some negative properties, especially in absorbency and pilling, which are improved after treatment. The results presented that the different conditions that were used with cross-linkers enhanced the acrylic fabrics properties. Where analysis of variance test at P-value 0.05 and radar chart area offered that the treated acrylic fabric with 5% (w/v) keratin accomplished the highest preferable properties for end use.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-03-01
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-09-2022-0115
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- Creation of smart compression garment using magnetic nanotextiles
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Authors: Mykola Riabchykov, Liudmyla Nazarchuk, Oksana Tkachuk, Victoria Stytsyuk
Abstract: This paper aims to prove the expediency and effectiveness of magnetic textiles use obtained by adding nanopowder synthesized on the basis of oxides of divalent and trivalent iron oxides, taking into account bacteriostatic, magnetotherapeutic and compressive properties. The research includes methods of synthesis of nanoelements of bivalent and trivalent iron, methods of the theory of elasticity for determining the pressure between compression clothing and a limb, methods of creating an annular magnetic field with determination of its voltage, methods of determining the growth dynamics of mold bacteria and methods of approximation of experimental data. On the base of the determination of the forces arising from the interaction of magnetic nanotextiles with a magnetic field, the expediency of using these materials in the creation of compression clothing has been proven. An additional medical value of magnetic textiles is the bacteriostatic effect. The content of magnetic nanoelements in the textile composition of 0.2% almost completely suppresses mold infections Cotton samples with the addition of nanocomponents based on ferric and ferric oxides were studied. Magnetotextile materials can be used in magnetotherapy, compression clothing, in textile products that provide bacteriostatic properties. The use of magnetic textile materials is a perspective direction for the creation of medical textile products with complex properties.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-02-08
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-08-2022-0095
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- Using an optimization model to support small sewing companies: a case
study in a Brazilian textile cluster-
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Authors: José Leão, Leydiana de Sousa Pereira, Maria Luiza Xavier De Holanda Cavalcanti
Abstract: Textile manufacturers worldwide are reformulating their networks, often outsourcing them to maintain a competitive advantage and increase market share. From this perspective, the purpose of this study is support the partnership selection process to develop a sustainable chain that effectively meets customer needs. Brazil has the largest textile and apparel chain in the West and is distinguished by its completeness, from fiber production, spinning, weaving, knitting, finishing and sewing to fashion shows. However, a firm’s relationship, especially in the production stage, is based on informal contracts, which result in a negative operational impact. A methodological framework was developed based on a stable matching process to determine the optimal supplier network structure. This study presents a model application for the denim apparel chain in northeast Brazil. In these environments, providing choices and recommending suppliers can be beneficial for effectively attending to demand requests, reducing production costs and improving quality through collaboration with sense relationships in a network. Thus, this study presents a better match from the negotiators’ perspective. The findings of this research are of primary interest for guiding collaborative network composition in the textile and apparel chain. In particular, apparel domain companies can improve their effectiveness in decision-making by measuring the characteristics and potential of all companies involved in networks.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-02-01
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-08-2022-0102
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- Behavior of parachute under varying in-flight condition – a review
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Authors: Sudev Dutta, Payal Bansal
Abstract: The purpose of this review paper is to outline the parachute materials and its behavior. To enhance parachute life, it is highly desirable to consider the commercial angle for any parachute manufacturing industry and its components under varying operational conditions. Hence, the knowledge of various textile materials and operational conditions which contributes the parachute strength and durability will be helpful for industries/researchers. This section is not applicable for a review paper. Parachute is a material used in numerous real-time applications such as man-drop, cargo delivery, aircraft recovery and aircraft decelerator which drastically reduces human efforts and time. However, each application requires a unique design and fabric selection to achieve the area of drag needed and the terminal velocity of the parachute material while in flight. For designing a man-drop parachute, the most critical parameters are weight and strength which must be considered during manufacturing. The army person uses the man-drop parachute, which must be as light as possible. This paper is an original review work and will be helpful for parachute manufacturers/researchers to enhance the life of parachutes with improved functionality.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-01-25
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-06-2022-0063
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- Review of effects of COVID-19 pandemic on the textile industry:
challenges, material innovation and performance-
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Authors: Raphael Kanyire Seidu, Shou-xiang Jiang, Benjamin Tawiah, Richard Acquaye, Ebenezer Kofi Howard
Abstract: The purpose of this study is to present a systematic review of the effects of COVID-19 on the conventional textile production subsector. The emergence of the COVID-19 virus in 2019 has subsequently caused many problems, such as unemployment, business closures, economic instability and high volatility in the global capital markets amongst others within the wider manufacturing industry including textile production. Relevant secondary data are obtained from the Scopus database and Statista. Based on the data analysis of 21 seed articles, three research themes are identified: challenges in the textile industry, new material innovations or solutions and the textile industry performance. The results reveal that the COVID-19 pandemic has affected the textile industry, disrupted the supply chains of this industry, affected profit margins, stopped employment and impacted the retail of products to customers. Aside from the negative repercussions, there are also good sides to the pandemic which, for instance, range from advanced material innovations to textiles with anti-microbial, self-cleaning and anti-bacterial properties that would limit the transfer of the virus. Findings reinforced the need for effective strategies and investments in the research and development departments of the various firms in the textile industry to innovate operations and novel materials for the next global pandemic. Many companies have adopted novel strategies and practices that are helping them to survive the pandemic. This study, therefore, recommends further investigation into material innovations and reimagining strategies by companies and the supply chain within the textile industry so that it is protected against future crises.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-01-24
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-08-2022-0098
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- A compressive review on different surface finishing of cotton fabrics
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Authors: Haymanot Enawgaw
Abstract: The purpose of this paper is to give compiled information on previously applied cotton fabric surface modifications. The paper covered most of the modifications done on cotton fabric to improve its properties or to add some functional properties. The paper presented mostly studied research works that brought a significant surface improvement on cotton fabric. Different previous works on surface modifications of cotton fabrics such as pilling, wrinkle and microbial resistance, hydrophobicity, cationization, flame retardancy and UV-protection characteristics were studied and their methods of modification including the main findings are well reported in this paper. Several modification treatments on surface modification of cotton fabrics indicated an improvement in the desired properties in which the modification is needed. For instance, the pilling tendency, wrinkling, microbial degradation and UV degradation drawbacks of cotton fabric can be overcome through different modification techniques. To the best of the author’s knowledge, there are no compressive documents that covered all the portions presented in this review. The author tried to cover the surface modifications done to improve the main properties of cotton fabric.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-01-19
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-06-2022-0068
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- Sericin eco-friendly biomaterial as a spin finish in drawn textured PET
yarn production-
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Authors: Abolfazl Zare
Abstract: This paper aims to extracted sericin from the cocoons of Bombyx mori silkworms, and sericin powder was applied onto drawn textured polyethylene terephthalate (PET) yarns as a spin finish. The reactivity on the surface of PET yarns was analyzed through Fourier transform infrared spectrophotometry–attenuated total reflectance (FTIR-ATR) and dyeing with methylene blue as a reactive dye. Also, investigations were conducted on the effects of sericin, citrc acid (CA) (as a crosslinking agent), and sodium hypophosphite (as a catalyst) concentrations on some properties of false-twist textured PET yarns. A false-twist texturing machine (Scragg-Shirley minibulk, England) was used with the draw ratio of 1.05, heating temperature of 120°C, texturing speed of 100 m min−1 and applied twist of 3,000 TPM. The aqueous extraction of sericin was carried out by the boiling of the raw silk in distilled water with L:R: 40:1 for 120 min. The aqueous solution was filtered with a filter paper to remove the impurities and insoluble fibroin. Finally, the sericin solution was freeze-dried to obtain the sericin powder. The sericin solution was applied on the drawn textured PET yarns using the “pad-dry-cure” method. Sericin fixation onto the PET yarns was confirmed by FTIR-ATR. The results showed that there were no significant changes in the tensile strength, linear density, crimp contraction and crimp modulus, elongation at break and shrinkage. In contrast, a substantial increase was observed in moisture regain, vertical wicking, dye uptake and ultraviolet protection. There was also a reduction just in the electrical resistivity, in the presence of sericin. Although sericin has been known to have numerous beneficial properties, its application in textile industry as a spin finish has not been reported yet.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-01-19
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-07-2022-0086
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- An exploratory study of Swedish and Romanian organisations to investigate
upcycling practice in the clothing industry-
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Authors: Manoj Kumar Paras, Rudrajeet Pal, Daniel Ekwall
Abstract: The process of redesigning is one of the essential steps in upcycling, which comprises ideation, reconstruction and fitting. This paper aims to study the best practice of upcycling in the clothing industry. This study is an attempt to standardise upcycling/redesign process. An exploratory approach was adopted to perform the research. This study draws on the multiple organisations involved in the upcycling of clothes. The organisations chosen for this study are located in Sweden and Romania using the snowball technique. Semi-structured interviews, direct and participatory observation approaches were used to collect information. The collected data are systematically analysed using NVivo 10 software. This paper provides empirical insights into the diverse practices of upcycling. Process, product and demand-based were three fundamental approaches to performing the redesigning process. The fabric quality and durability, variations in size, colour and pattern, skills and efforts required in the extraction of parts and environmental consciousness and awareness were the main factors influencing upcycling process. The use of the European case may miss best practices from the other region. This study may help scholars to understand the method of upcycling. A practitioner of upcycling can use the findings to improve and standardise the existing process. This research is beneficial for society, as this leads to the reduction of textile wastage. This paper conceptualises some of the best practices of clothes redesign. This provides a good insight for the organisation for the improvement in the redesign business.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-01-12
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-04-2022-0048
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- Development of a risk model for different innovator types in textile and
apparel industries-
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Authors: Udeni Kumarapeli, Vijitha Ratnayake, Sanath Siroshana Jayawardana
Abstract: Technological innovation is one of the strongest driving forces in the survival and growth of any organization, including textile and apparel industries. However, technological innovation inherits a wide array of risks due to the uncertainty involved in it. In-depth research reveals the existence of a significant relationship between innovation failures and the approach used to innovate, that is, the organization’s innovator type. However, quantitative evidence supporting this concern is still lacking. Hence, the purpose of this paper is to bridge the existing gap in the literature on effective management of technological innovation risk factors and the innovator type of textile and apparel industries. The risk factors related to technological innovations are identified under different innovator types. Analytic network process (ANP) has been used to evaluate the contribution of risk factors according to the innovator type of the organization. Data was gathered through the literature review and structured and semi structured interviews with textile and apparel industry experts. The contribution of risk factors was determined through priorities, derived according to the ANP using Super Decision software. Contribution of risk factors takes different values according to innovator type. This provides comprehensive knowledge on developing a risk management strategy according to the innovator type of the organization. Furthermore, this provides insight into the fact that a generalized risk management strategy will not be effective and sensible for all innovator types. The findings provide a thorough understanding of developing a customized risk management strategy by determining the “most to least” criticality of risks based on the innovator type of the organization. Furthermore, findings can be used to adopt the most appropriate innovator type based on the organization’s key competencies. Moreover, this guides the organization in making the best use of internal resources during risk management. Furthermore, this provides insight into the risk factors that must be addressed prior to embarking on new innovative approaches.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-01-12
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-10-2022-0122
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- Fabrication of fabric-like bacterial cellulose/activated carbon membrane
for filtering layer applications of face masks by using textile padding
method-
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Authors: Hung Ngoc Phan, Huong Mai Bui, Nguyen Khanh Vu
Abstract: Bacterial cellulose (BC) is an ideal alternative filtering material. However, current functionalization approaches for BC have not been fully discovered industrially as well as academically applying textile processing. This study aims to create a sustainable fabric-like membrane made of BC/activated carbon (AC) for applications in filtration using textile padding method, to protect people from respiratory pandemics. Fabric-like BC is first mechanically dehydrated then AC is loaded via a textile padding step. The finishing efficacy, properties of fabric-like BC/AC and NaOH pretreatment are analyzed and characterized by scanning electron microscope (SEM), field emission scanning electron microscope (FE SEM), X-ray diffraction (XRD), CIELab color space, color strength (K/S), nitrogen adsorption-desorption isotherm including Brunauer–Emmett–Teller (BET) specific surface area and Barrett–Joyner–Halenda (BJH) pore size and volume. This research results in a fabric-like BC/AC with pore diameters of 3.407 ± 0.310 nm, specific surface area of 115.28 m2/g and an efficient scalable padding process, which uses 8 times less amount of chemical and nearly 30 times shorter treating duration than conventional methods. Our globe is now consuming an alarming amount of non-degradable disposable masks resulting in massive trash buildup as a future environmental problem. Besides, current disposable masks requiring a significant upfront technological investment have posed challenges in human protection from respiratory diseases, especially for countries with limited conditions. By combining a sustainable material (BC) with popular padding method of textile industry, the fabric-like BC/AC will offer sustainable and practical values for both humankind and nature. This research has offered an effective padding process to functionalize BC, and a unique fabric-like BC/AC membrane for filtration applications.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-01-05
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-06-2022-0071
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- Can garment production survive in a developed economy in the 21st century'
A study of “Made in Ireland”-
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Authors: Miriam Keegan, Sheng Lu
Abstract: Given the heated academic and policy debate regarding the fate of garment manufacturing in a high-wage developed economy in the 21st century, this study aims to explore the production and export strategies of apparel “Made in Ireland.” A logistic regression analysis of 4,000 apparel items at the stock keeping unit (SKU) level sold in the market from January 2018 to December 2021 was conducted to evaluate the production and export strategy of apparel “Made in Ireland” versus foreign-made imported items sold in Ireland. The statistical results showed that Ireland’s apparel manufacturing sector survived the market competition by leveraging non-price competing factors, such as distinct product assortment, cultural heritage, history and traditional craftsmanship. The findings challenged the conclusions of the classic trade and economic development theories regarding the trajectory of the garment manufacturing sector and called for a rethink about the strategies for expanding garment manufacturing in a high-wage developed country in today’s global economy.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-01-05
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-09-2022-0113
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- Study of lawsone and its modified disperse dyes derived by triple cascade
reaction: dyeing performance on nylon and polyester fabrics-
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Authors: Nilam C. Patel, Dipen H. Desai, Paresh N. Patel
Abstract: This paper aims to develop a novel protocol for the synthesis of disperse dyes derived by a triple cascade reaction with lawsone in presence of Zn acetate as a catalyst. The developed novel scaffolds have efficient dyeing properties on nylon and polyester fibers. This report demonstrates an effectual triple cascade protocol for the synthesis of novel disperse dyes derived from various polynuclear carbaldehyde, urea and lawsone. The Zn acetate was found to be an effective catalyst for this reaction. Their dyeing performance has been studied on nylon and polyester fabrics. The wash fastness, sublimation fastness, color assessment, determination of percentage exhaustion and fixation properties were applied to both the dyed fabrics. The obtained results indicate that the Zn acetate is an efficient catalyst for the developed triple cascade protocol. The prepared novel disperse dye greatly impacted their dyeing properties on nylon and polyester fibers. They have shown brilliant shades, higher affinity, adsorption capacity, superior tinctorial strength than the lawsone. The percentage exhaustion value, fixation value, color strength (K/s) value, washing and sublimation fastness properties have been found very well in all dyed nylon samples compared to polyester samples. These results discloses that these disperses dyes are very useful to the growing importance of nylon and polyester fibers. The present protocol synthesizes the racemic mixture of the prepared molecules. Developed protocol can be used for various other triple cascade processes. Also these molecules can be used for dyeing of other fabrics. With the help of commercialization of prepared molecules, it may provide the better alternative of the current disperse dyes. This may affect the various segments of society. This report represents a novel protocol for the synthesis of modified novel disperse dyes with an efficient dyeing properties on nylon and polyester fibers.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-01-03
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-08-2022-0093
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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- The use of textile materials for respiratory protection in times of
pandemics: a systematic review and analysis-
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Authors: Ana Aline Mendes Paim, Morgana Carneiro de Andrade, Fernanda Steffens
Abstract: Given the COVID-19 Pandemic outbreak and the role of medical textiles for protection, this study aims to identify the leading research foci on using textile materials for personal protection in pandemic situations. A systematic review and systemic analysis of the literature on the subject were performed using the process knowledge development – constructivist (ProKnow-C) methodology. A bibliographic portfolio with 16 relevant studies was obtained. This portfolio represents the main focus of this research field, including the main filtration mechanisms, ways of disinfecting N95 respirators and proposed methods to evaluate the filtration efficiency of different materials with potential for mask development. To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this is the first time the ProKnow-C methodology was used in the textile field. Thus, future studies can benefit from using the Proknow-C for selecting and analyzing relevant textile studies following a systematic approach.
Citation: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
PubDate: 2023-01-02
DOI: 10.1108/RJTA-04-2022-0041
Issue No: Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print (2023)
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