JournalTOCs

Textile Research Journal
Journal Prestige (SJR): 0.551

Citation Impact (citeScore): 2
Number of Followers: 11

Hybrid journal (It can contain Open Access articles)
ISSN (Print) 0040-5175 - ISSN (Online) 1746-7748
Published by Sage Publications

[1176 journals]

CORRIGENDUM to Interconnecting embroidered hybrid conductive yarns by
ultrasonic plastic welding for e-textiles
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  Pages: NP1 - NP1
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Volume 93, Issue 11-12, Page NP1-NP1, June 2023.
  
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-05-23T11:27:18Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231174275
  Issue No: Vol. 93, No. 11-12 (2023)
An assessment of Africa’s second-hand clothing value chain: a systematic
review and research opportunities
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  Authors: Peter Davis Sumo, Ishmael Arhin, Richard Danquah, Samuel Kortu Nelson, Lydia Osarfo Achaa, Chiamaka Nneoma Nweze, Liling Cai, Xiaofen Ji
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  A rapid change in fast fashion has significantly accelerated the expansion of the volume of discarded clothing across the globe. Africa is the world’s largest destination for second-hand clothes (SHC, sometimes known as ‘Mitumba’). However, fewer studies have been conducted on Africa’s SHC, making it challenging to evaluate the impact of the market and its value chain. This study examines the economic contribution and assessment of the SHC value chain and the resulting environmental challenges, identifies the trends of scholarly discourse on the topic in Africa, examines their methodologies and develops future research opportunities. The study shows that the SHC trade is an essential supply chain connecting developed and developing countries and a valuable clothing consumption alternative for people experiencing economic decline, poverty and low purchasing power. SHC is crucial in delivering fashion products to customers in underdeveloped African countries. It also creates job opportunities for hundreds of thousands of people in the trade, distribution, repairs, laundry services and upcycling. Results further show that Africans are being enriched with new skills and knowledge of the SHC trade, which is expected to help grow and promote small- to medium-sized enterprises. However, poorly made Mitumba become unmarketable, creating environmental challenges in cities across the continent. The study found fewer empirical studies, due largely to limited data on Africa’s SHC trade. This calls for more empirical studies to scale the SHC trade in the region, expand the boundaries of entrepreneurial opportunities for Africa to interact with the global market, and alleviate the widespread problem of extreme poverty while also addressing the environmental challenges posed by SHC.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-05-26T06:41:36Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231175057
Warp control devices and tension for triaxial woven fabric with carbon
fiber
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  Authors: Yunfei Rao, Zhe Li, Feichao Zhu, Bin Yu, Wei Li
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  In the weaving process of triaxial woven fabric (TWF), warp yarns need to be moved in different directions at each weaving step, which makes it difficult to control the warp tension. Furthermore, the friction of carbon fiber will lead to fuzzing and fracture of yarns in the manufacturing process, which brings challenges to the weaving of TWF with carbon fiber. Here, we have designed a warp control system for weaving TWF with carbon fiber. It includes a let-off mechanism and fabric winding device, which have been demonstrated to realize the continuous weaving of TWF with different specifications of carbon fiber (1k, 3k, 6k, 12k, 24k). The let-off mechanism meets the needs of moving the warp at each weaving step and keeping the carbon fiber in its the original shape. The compensation length ([math]) and warp tension during interweaving could be adjusted by the polyester filament and the number of weights ([math]), respectively. The fabric winding device can take up the formed fabric by controlling the stepping motor. Moreover, the relationships between the control parameters of the stepping motor ([math]) and the width of carbon fiber ([math]) have been established.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-05-26T06:41:36Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231176493
Relationship between the specific work of rupture and the blended ratio
for two-component blended yarn
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  Authors: Yuyang Zhou, Xubin Wang, Qiaoli Cao, Hao Li, Jiawei Li, Lili Qian, Chongwen Yu
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The yarn specific work of rupture is a comprehensive index to characterize the resistance of yarn to mechanical destruction. For blended yarn, it is closely related to the blended ratio of the components. This paper established a model to express the quantitative relationship between the specific work of rupture and the blended ratio in blended yarn. This model was obtained by analyzing the breaking process of blended yarn and summarizing the empirical data. Then, the experimental data were used to verify the established model and a good agreement between the calculated and experimental results was found. According to this model, the curve of the specific work of rupture against the blended ratio can be obtained by simple plotting. Consequently, this work can be used to predict the specific work of rupture for blended yarn with various blended ratios.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-05-23T05:18:32Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231176853
Evaluation of structural parameters to predict particle filtration and air
permeability performance of woven textiles
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  Authors: Orlane Douguet, Karine Buet-Gautier, Gontrand Leyssens, Marie-Ange Bueno, Daniel Mathieu, Jean-Francois Brilhac, Valérie Tschamber
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The COVID-19 pandemic has highlighted environmental and supply issues related to single-use protective masks for both the general public and some healthcare workers. Reusable fabrics are an interesting alternative to disposable nonwovens and offer a prospect of protection in other fields such as against fine particles in urban areas. In this paper, the behavior of 22 woven fabrics regarding air permeability, simulating breathability through the material, and filtration against 3 µm diameter particles is investigated. First, basic laws are verified between the performance of a single layer of fabrics and that of a stack. A relationship is established between air permeability and filtration efficiency, allowing one to be calculated when the other is known. Second, the influence of parameters defined at various scales of the structure (fibers, yarns and fabrics) is analyzed. The most sensitive structural parameters that can be considered as predictors are then identified and used in a model allowing the calculation of air permeability. In this model two levels of porosity are taken into account: a macroscopic porosity at the scale of the woven structure and a microscopic porosity at the scale of the thread. The model proposed in this study offers a convenient method to design an effective filter from data easily measurable during manufacturing.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-05-23T05:18:31Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231173601
Study on reactive dyeing in a sustainable nonaqueous medium dyeing system
by X-ray electron spectroscopy
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  Authors: Liujun Pei, He Zhu, Jingru Chen, Wenhua Shi, Jiping Wang, Omer Kamal Alebeid
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  In the nonaqueous medium dyeing system (decamethylcyclopenta siloxane; D5), the bonding between cotton fiber and reactive dye may be influenced by the dyeing medium. To evaluate the dyeing performance of reactive dye in the D5 dyeing system, the fixing of reactive dyes with different structures was studied. Before and after dyeing, the chemical environment of cotton fiber was investigated by X-ray electron spectroscopy, and compared with the spectroscopic method. Compared with traditional reactive dyeing, the color depth of the dyed cotton fabrics and the final fixation of dyes are much higher in the D5 dyeing system. The elements of the cellulose fiber surface are changed after dyeing. Especially for N element, its content is increased after dyeing. After 30 minutes, the final fixation of reactive dye is about 80% by analyzing the account of N. Compared with the undyed cellulose fiber, the peak area of C–C or C–H is gradually increased after dyeing, but the proportion of C–O is decreased with the fixing time. The proportion of O–C–O is not changed much with the fixation time. Therefore, the C–C or C–H chemical environment on the cellulose fiber surface will be changed after dyeing. Therefore, the bonding of dyes and fibers can be analyzed through the change of the C1s chemical environment or the amount of N element before and after dyeing. This investigation successfully developed a method which could evaluate the fixation process in the D5 dyeing system.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-05-23T05:18:30Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231175691
Enhanced water permeability of hollow fiber composite reverse osmosis
membrane using porous α-cellulose/polysulfone hollow fiber membrane as
the substrate
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  Authors: Hongbin Li, Mengjie Fan, Linmao Li, Sisi Ma, Wenying Shi, Jie Liu
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The hollow fiber composite (HFC) reverse osmosis (RO) membrane with a special self-supporting structure has attracted a great deal of attention in the fields of separation and purification. However, low permeability is an urgent problem restricting its wide application. A porous polysulfone (PSF) hollow fiber support membrane was fabricated through the dry–wet spinning technique and hydrophilic α-cellulose © powder was incorporated in the PSF membrane matrix to improve the membrane’s water permeability. The HFC RO membrane was prepared via the interfacial polymerization process on the inner surface of the C/PSF support membrane. The membrane morphology and surface hydrophilicity were evaluated through scanning electron microscopy observation and dynamic water contact angle (WCA) measurement. The effects of α-cellulose incorporation on the separation performance of PSF hollow fiber membranes and HFC RO membranes were investigated. The results showed that the surface hydrophilicity and water permeability of the PSF membrane were significantly improved after the introduction of α-cellulose. The WCA of the modified PSF support membrane decreased from 84.6° for the neat PSF membrane to 70.25°, and the pure water flux can reach a maximum value of 102.1 L/(m2 · h) (0.1 Mpa), which was 1.3 times that of the pristine membrane. The HFC RO membrane using the hydrophilic modified PSF membrane as the substrate exhibited an enhanced water flux of 15.6 L/(m2 · h) and, meanwhile, the membrane salt rejection remained above 97.6% (1.0 wt% NaCl aqueous solution, 0.7 Mpa). The HFC RO membrane showed extremely high rejection rates (99%) for different dyes (congo red and methylene blue). No obvious performance deterioration was observed for the HFC RO membrane during continuous vacuum membrane distillation (VMD) experiments for 60 h.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-05-23T05:18:30Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231176860
Hot pad–batch dyeing of cotton fabrics using reactive blue-vinyl
sulfone dye
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  Authors: Canyan Yang, Bihong Lv, Guohua Jing, Zuoming Zhou, Xiaomin Wu
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Cold pad–batch dyeing of reactive dyes is low energy consumption and a clean dyeing technique. However, the room dyeing temperature requires strongly active base reactive dyes for dye fixation, bringing about the limitation of dye adaptability. Here, we propose a new technology of hot pad–batch dyeing that has the advantages of higher dye fixation and excellent color fastness. Three blue reactive dyers (C.I. Reactive Blue 19, C.I. Reactive Blue 21, C.I. Reactive Blue 203) that contain β-sulfate ethyl sulfone were used to increase the dye fixation of reactive dyes with cotton fibers. The effects of alkali concentration, dyeing temperature, batching time, and salt concentration on the dyeing performance of cotton fabrics were studied. The effects of post-treatment (soaping and fixation) on the K/S values and color fastness were also investigated. The study showed that the dye fixation rate of the three reactive blue dyes was higher than 87%, and the rubbing and washing color fastness was more than grade 3–4 in the process of hot pad–batch dyeing of cotton fabrics. Furthermore, the dyed cotton fiber was fixed with a fixing agent (polyurethane (PU) and a mixture of PU and an aziridine crosslinker), and the color fastness reached not less than grade 4. Compared with cold pad–batch dyeing, hot pad–batch dyeing has the advantages of higher dye fixation and excellent color fastness for the three reactive blue dyes. Therefore, the dyeing performance of β-sulfate ethyl sulfone types of blue reactive dyes using hot pad–batch dyeing can effectively reduce the burden of post-treatment and the discharge of dyeing wastewater, and has a good application prospect in the dyeing of cotton fabrics.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-05-23T05:18:29Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231176082
Soft, strong, and breathable polylactic acid/polyethylene glycol
microfibrous membranes with a fluffy alignment structure for skin
contactor
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  Authors: Heng Zhang, Qi Zhen, Yang Cao, Yi Gan, Ziqiang Yang, Xiaoming Qian
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Polylactic acid (PLA) microfibrous membranes, having high comfort and wearability features, have attracted considerable research interest for applications involving skin contactors. However, the poor softness and low strength of these membranes are the major challenges that prevent their large-scale fabrication and application. Herein, an advanced strategy for preparing a soft, strong, and breathable polylactic acid/polyethylene glycol (PLA/PEG) microfibrous membrane using an in situ drafting-assisted melt-blowing process has been developed. The introduction of PEG significantly improved the crystallization and plasticization of the PLA chain molecules, thus promoting the perfect crystallinity of the PLA phase. Benefiting from the synergy of the PEG and the drafting process, the prepared PLA/PEG microfibrous membranes exhibited a fluffy structure wherein the air permeability increased to 142.5 mm/s with the increase in DCD to 37 cm. Meanwhile, the PLA/PEG microfibrous membranes exhibit optimized anisotropic softness performance: a smaller maximum resistance of 0.13 N in the machine direction and a larger maximum resistance of 1.8 N in the cross direction were obtained in comparison with conventional membranes. This suggests the tremendous potential for using the fabricated membranes in flexible, breathable, and wearable skin contactors.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-05-16T06:27:15Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231173156
Efficiency marker evaluation based on optimized deep learning supported by
Bayesian optimization technique
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  Authors: Wessam M. Salama, Moustafa H Aly, Ahmed M. Abed, Amira M. Weadly
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  In this article the efficiency of marker patterns is calculated based on a new optimized automated computer-aided design system interested in nesting the irregular objects using deep learning techniques to reduce the unused area of garment layout. The automatic hyper-parameter is adjusted based on Bayesian optimization technique. Our proposed work is based on four phases: segmentation using the Grab-Cut technique which is utilized to increase our framework performance and decrease the cost. Moreover, different optimization algorithms, including k-nearest neighbor, naive Bayes, decision trees, and support vector machine are performed for classifying the pattern size from the fabric layer. Furthermore, the data augmentation technique is applied to overcome the lack of datasets and improve our framework performance by increasing the number of datasets. The optimized framework achieves 98.99% area under the receiver-operating characteristic curve, an accuracy of 98.97%, a sensitivity ([math]) of 98.98%, a precision ([math]) of 98.89%, an [math]-score of 98.99%, a mean square error of 0.03% to 4.91%, an efficiency of 99.66%, a p-value of 0.0207, a t-statistics of 1.336, and a computational time of 3.21 s.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-05-07T09:12:08Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231171720
High flame-retardant polyether sulfone/carbon fiber/polyethylene
terephthalate fiber hybrid composites with low density
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  Authors: Qian Yang, Chihan Chen, Zhimin Li, Changjie Chen, Xinhou Wang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Polyether sulfone (PES) in filter material has been reported extensively. However, PES fibers have not yet been used in flame-retardant composites. This study systematically investigates the effect of PES/carbon fiber (CF)/polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fiber content, hot-pressing temperature, pressure, and duration on the flame-retardant property. The flame-retardant properties, tensile properties, morphology, and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) have been studied. The results show that the optimum parameter is PES/CF/PET fiber content of 65/30/5 wt%, hot-pressing temperature of 270°C, hot-pressing pressure of 35 MPa, and hot-pressing duration of 50 min. The fiber hybrid composite has a 50% lower density compared to conventional CF composites. The sample successfully passes the vertical burning test (UL-94) V-0 flammability rating, and it can be immediately extinguished and no droplets are produced during the testing process. Further, the cone calorimeter results demonstrated that the composite also has a low heat release rate (the peak of the heat release rate is 47.226 kW/m2) and a low smoke density (the peak of the smoke production rate is 0.0107 m2/s). The carbon residue rate of the PES/CF/PET fiber hybrid composite reached 44.45% at 900°C. The carbonization of the benzene ring on the PES fiber backbone is the main mechanism of flame retardancy of the PES/CF/PET fiber hybrid composite.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-05-07T08:10:18Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231173155
Creation of new textile utilizing Nishijin’s hikibaku technique and
exploring new applications in other industries
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  Authors: Masashi Kano, Noriaki Kuwahara
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Nishijin is famous for its traditional technique of cutting Japanese paper to a thickness of 0.2 to 0.3 mm and weaving it with warp and weft threads. This technique is called ‘hikibaku’. In the previous paper, we reported on the creation of a new textile with a new tactile feeling by using natural cowhide instead of Japanese paper used in hikibaku. In this paper, we describe the details of the automation of the hikibaku technique that created the new textile, and conduct a durability test of the newly produced textile using artificial leather, which is of stable quality, instead of natural cowhide, and discuss its new applications.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-05-07T08:05:47Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231170324
Research status and development of infrared camouflage textile materials
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  Authors: Ying Su, Bin Yu, Xiaoming Zhao
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  With the rapid development of infrared detection and tracking technology, the combat concealment and viability of various military targets are seriously threatened, and the demand for military infrared camouflage is increasingly urgent. Individual combatants, as small moving targets, have the characteristics of small size, strong mobility, complex and changeable background, etc. Their infrared camouflage is more flexible and accurate than the equipment and engineering camouflage. The infrared camouflage textile material is soft and portable, which is the main embodiment of the infrared camouflage technology for individual soldiers. It can be used for infrared camouflage clothing, military tents, sleeping bags, and other equipment. Its research and development have been highly valued by many countries. In this article, details of the working principle, preparation methods, and recent research progress of flexible infrared camouflage textile materials are summarized. First of all, from the military application of infrared technology and the principle of infrared camouflage, the development status of infrared camouflage textile materials is summarized, and the research results of near-infrared and thermal infrared camouflage textile materials are introduced. Secondly, the camouflage conditions and research directions of new multi-band recombination and adaptive infrared camouflage textile materials are discussed. Finally, the challenges and opportunities of the future development of infrared camouflage textile materials, especially adaptive infrared camouflage textile materials, are considered.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-05-07T07:57:48Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231170323
Warp-knitted spacer fabric flexible composites with high stability and
low-velocity impact resistance infused by flock-reinforced shear
thickening gel
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  Authors: Yuhao Tan, Yanxue Ma, Yuling Li
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Flexible protective materials with suitable properties are necessary for personal low-velocity impact (LVI) protection. Flock-reinforced shear thickening gel (FRSTG) can absorb energy through its state transition, thereby showing great potential in applications for LVI protection. However, the unstable state of FRSTG with a slight flow behavior challenges its LVI-resistant evaluation and in-depth development in use. Herein, three-dimensional (3D) warp-knitted spacer fabric (WKSF) composites were obtained by infusing FRSTG in high proportions (≥75%). FRSTG was observed to be stably and randomly distributed in the spacer layer of the WKSF, and the desirable flexibility of the composites was confirmed. The LVI protection effect of FRSTG was better than that of shear thickening gel at the same composite ratio, and the composite with an 83% FRSTG proportion absorbed more than 80% of the impact energy. Besides, FRSTG dominated the composites, showing enhanced responsiveness to the impact with increased velocity. Accordingly, this study constructed stable and LVI-resistant 3D flexible composites with FRSTG as the main functional component, which provided new ideas for the development of wearable protective equipment.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-05-04T05:14:13Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231171744
Evaporation coefficient determination during the capillary rise
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  Authors: Ayman Alfaleh, Sofien Benltoufa, Faten Fayala
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Thermo-physiological comfort refers to the heat and moisture transport properties of clothing and how the clothing helps maintain the body's heat balance during various activities. To maintain the thermoregulation of the body, the resulting sweating should be absorbed by wicking fabrics close to the skin and evaporated to the ambient air. In this study, a mathematical model was developed considering evaporation during the capillary rise, based on the geometric configuration of a jersey-knitted fabric and taking evaporation into account. This model was used to calculate the evaporation coefficient. Based on the activities of the worker, sweat diffusion is controlled by capillary diffusion and moisture evaporation. The effect of air velocities of 0 m/s, 1 m/s, and 2 m/s, representing non-walking, walking, and running activities of a worker, respectively, was studied during capillary diffusion. The experiments were conducted at different relative humidities. The results show that the evaporation coefficient depends on the worker’s activities and the relative humidity ratio.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-05-03T11:14:06Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231168425
Construction of color solid by gridded color mixing of nine primary
colored fibers and spinning of full color gamut yarn
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  Authors: Xianqiang Sun, Yuan Xue, Jingli Xue, Guang Jin
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Aiming at the demand of spinning full color gamut yarn, this paper builds a gridded color mixing mode for nine primary colored fibers containing 213 grid points and a cylindrical color solid according to the gridded cylindrical color model, and gives the equal lightness, equal hue and equal saturation chromatography matrix of the cylindrical color solid. On the basis of the three-channel computer numerical control (CNC) spinning platform, the three-element spinning mechanism of “digital color mixing spinning process – mixing ratios of colored fibers – colors of forming yarns” has been established, and the processing approach of full color gamut yarns has been provided. According to the 213 grid points of color matching surface of high, medium and low lightness of cylindrical color solid, colored yarn was prepared, and indexes of unevenness, surface hairiness and tensile strength of colored yarns were measured as well, which proved the feasibility of spinning full color gamut yarn.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-05-03T07:07:13Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231171735
Design and characterization of multi-functional ternary composites with a
hierarchically porous and filled-microperforated plate structure
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  Authors: Jingjing Nan, Qiang Zhou, Qingwen Song, Jiaguang Meng, Zijing Dong, Lingjie Yu, Chao Zhi
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  To effectively overcome the shortcomings of common polyurethane (PU) insulation materials in terms of flame retardancy, mechanical properties, and sound absorption, a new multi-functional insulation material needs to be developed. Here, simple materials such as PU and silica aerogel (SA) combined with a special three-dimensional spacer fabric were used to design an innovative SA/PU/spacer fabric (SPS) ternary composite. It integrates a “hierarchically porous” and “filled-microperforated plate” structure. The superior structure design endows the new type of composite with a remarkable performance while maintaining low density (0.198 g/cm3). Specifically, the SPS composite was difficult to ignite by alcohol lamps compared with PU and SA/PU, and its thermal conductivity and compression modulus can reach 0.0392 W/(m·k) and 1.5 MPa, respectively. Moreover, the average absorption coefficient of the SPS composite (7.5 mm thickness) is 0.62, and its noise reduction coefficient per unit thickness (0.37) exceeds most reported sound absorption materials. From these results, the SPS composite provides a convenient and low-cost method to improve the overall performance of traditional thermal insulation material, which is of great significance in the fields of construction and transportation.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-05-03T07:02:52Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231171721
A novel modeling and simulation for the electro-thermal conversion
analysis of graphene-coated knitted fabric
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  Authors: Qianqian Song, Yiqin Shao, Xiaohan Wang, Weilai Chen
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Electrical heating fabrics that possess the excellent characteristics of lightweight, soft, and rapid heating were exploited to address the warmth problem in the cold winter. In this study, a stretchable and effective graphene-decorated weft-knitted fabric heater was developed by spray-drying approach. The graphene-decorated weft-knitted fabric has good stretchability with the strain of 124%, and a high thermal response that reached 206°C with voltage of 10 V. The heating performance of the graphene-decorated weft-knitted fabric remained unchanged at 20 cycles. Furthermore, a three-dimensional geometric model of graphene-decorated weft-knitted fabric was constructed. Mathematical modeling and visual simulation analysis were carried out to explore the electro-thermal coupling behavior. The electro-thermal conversion simulation results are basically consistent with the experimental data. The results offer an approach to design flexible and wearable electrical heating fabrics for thermal management.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-05-03T06:56:52Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231171161
Knitting region segmentation and knitting parameter generation for
three-dimensional model of socks
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  Authors: Xin Ru, Caijie Yan, Laihu Peng, Xudong Hu, Weimin Shi
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  To achieve accuracy when customizing knitted products, the size parameters of various parts of the user's body, such as arm length and waist circumference, are obtained via manual measurement or three-dimensional scanning. However, for customized products such as medical socks, which have high-precision design requirements, the existing customization design methods can only ensure the accuracy of key data, such as foot length and foot height, but cannot meet the requirements for all-round customization based on users' foot data. To improve design accuracy, this study proposes a method to generate automatically a continuous set of fine size parameters that are required for knitting from a three-dimensional model of socks based on the idea of simulated knitting. Specifically, a region segmentation method based on the shape diameter function and model skeleton is developed. The sock model is divided into regions such as heel, foot, and toe, which correspond to the knitting process. In addition, a method to simulate the knitting process of a sock machine is developed, which enables loop-by-loop knitting using a sock machine via layer-by-layer iterative sampling on the surface of the model. The sampling axis is generated based on the model skeleton as the direction of sock knitting for the simulation. In the process of simulating knitting, the knitting method is switched between the divided area. Then, the knitting path of the yarn and the parameters required for the simulated sock machine that meet the sock-making process conditions are obtained. Finally, actual socks are knitted using the machine with the obtained knitting parameters, and the proportion of each area of the socks is compared with that of the model. The error is less than 6%. The proposed method can improve the production accuracy of customized socks, which is of great significance for improving the three-dimensional molding technology of socks.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-05-03T06:54:12Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231168030
Interrelationships between cotton fiber quality traits and fluid handling
and moisture management properties of nonwoven textiles
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  Authors: Rebecca J Hron, Doug J Hinchliffe, Gregory N Thyssen, Brian D Condon, Linghe Zeng, Michael Santiago Cintron, Johnie N Jenkins, Jack C McCarty, Ruixiu Sui
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Cotton fibers represent a sustainable and environmentally responsible raw material for the production of nonwoven textiles which are currently dominated by synthetic fibers derived from petrochemicals. Natural variation in quality parameters such as fineness, length, and strength present a challenge for cotton fiber conversion to yarns and in weaving and knitting for conventional textiles. The grading process for cotton fibers addresses this issue by allowing converters to select fibers suitable for specific woven textile applications. However, there has been little attempt to correlate cotton fiber quality traits with nonwoven textiles performance. This study examined the relationship of cotton fiber quality and fluid handling and moisture management performance properties of nonwoven textiles for personal hygiene and disposable applications. This includes potential end-use in diapers and incontinence products as well as disposable textiles for use in clinical settings. Ten recombinant inbred lines of cotton with a broad distribution of fiber quality traits were selected from a multiparent advanced generation intercross population. Fibers were harvested, converted into nonwoven textiles, and subjected to a series of standardized testing protocols. The results indicated that inferior quality coarse cotton fibers subjected to discount market pricing can be selectively utilized for nonwoven applications that benefit from improved moisture management and fluid handling performance.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-05-03T06:50:53Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221132011
Sustainable castor oil-based semi-aromatic copolyesters with high strength
and low hydrolysis
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  Authors: Yu-Lin Wang, Hsu-I Mao, Chin-Wen Chen, Jia-Wei Shiu, Syang-Peng Rwei
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Hot-melt adhesives are solid adhesives that are converted to a melting state for application to substrates and on cooling efficiently sets up the bond. Due to low or no volatile organic compound emissions, hot-melt adhesives are extensively used in various applications. Poly(trimethylene terephthalate-co-adipate) copolymers containing dimethyl terephthalate, adipic acid, and 1,3-propanediol along with varying amounts of castor oil were synthesized by one-step melt polymerization as hot-melt adhesives. The structure, composition, and thermal properties of these samples were analyzed, and all samples showed excellent thermal stability with Td-5% values above 300°C. Differential scanning calorimetry measurements showed tunable melting temperatures of the copolymers in the range of 80–180°C, which increased with the content of dimethyl terephthalate and decreased with increasing amounts of castor oil. The incorporation of castor oil as soft segments enhanced the flexibility of the molecular chain, indicating an increment in the elongation rate while decreasing the stress at the break and glass transition temperatures. Rheological examinations showed significant increments in the viscosity at lower angular frequencies with the introduction of castor oil; this was attributed to the entanglement caused by the multifunctional groups of castor oil with dangling chains in the segments. As the angular frequency increased, the viscosities of the samples decreased almost linearly, revealing good applicability in the melting process of the copolymers, which presented controllable melting viscosities under different process conditions. The T-peel test was used to investigate the adhesion properties of the copolymers, and the copolymer with 50/50 molar ratio of dimethyl terephthalate/adipic acid with 3 mol% castor oil PT(T50A50)-C3 exhibited excellent binding capacity between the copolymer and poly(ethylene terephthalate) fabric with a peel strength of 2624.5 N m−1. Moreover, PT(T50A50)-C3 shows low moisture absorption, good hydrolysis resistance, and relatively low hardness, which indicates its high potential for application in hot-melt adhesives on polyester fabrics with high strength, good tactile quality, and long service life.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-05-03T06:31:12Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231171722
Electroneurophysiological responses to fabric-skin dynamic contact with
different fabrics among different types of people
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  Authors: Ting Ye, Lina Cui, Chuyang Zhang, Yiping Qiu
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Electroneurophysiology has been more and more widely used to evaluate the tactile comfort of fabrics. In our previous study, it was found that three different types of subjects exist, namely extraordinary, ordinary, and non-sensitive people, corresponding to their electroneurophysiological responses to fabric-skin contact. In the current study, 19 subjects were recruited, including one extraordinary sensitive, eight ordinary sensitive and 10 non-sensitive subjects who were tested with a smooth cotton fabric and a rough polyester fabric in a fabric-skin dynamic contact experiment. Electromyography, electroencephalography, and electrocardiography signals of the human body, paired with subjective evaluation were carried out. The results show that the rough polyester fabric, compared with the smooth cotton fabric, tended to cause higher mean amplitude and larger waveform area of the myoelectric potential, reduced energy percentage of α wave, improved pneumogastric nerve activity and heart rate variability of the ordinary sensitive subjects, indicating more discomfort in fabric-skin dynamic contact. However, for the non-sensitive subjects, no consistent pattern could be observed in all of the above indicators. Therefore, the ordinary sensitive subjects are more suitable in clothing tactile comfort evaluation using electroneurophysiological measurements. In addition, it was found that ordinary sensitive subjects are predominantly females while non-sensitive subjects are most likely males.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-28T06:14:40Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231171946
Effect of fabric properties and glove structure on thermal protective
performance of fire gloves under flash fire exposure
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  Authors: Tingyu Wang, Lijun Wang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The purpose of this study was to analyze the influence of fabric properties and glove structure on the thermal protective performance of fire glove when exposed to a flash fire. Ten types of firefighting glove fabrics were selected, and nine types of gloves with four-layer fabrics were obtained for an orthogonal experiment. Different structures and sizes of gloves were also designed. The burn area and absorbed energy were tested using a flame hand system. Pearson correlations were established to analyze the relationships of fabric properties and absorbed energy, and of shrinkage rate and absorbed energy. The statistical analysis from these obtained data indicated that the thickness of fabric systems had no significant correlation for total absorbed energy (p > 0.05), while the flame retardancy, air permeability, and shrinkage rate of the outer shell fabric exhibited a strong relation (p = 0.033, 0.012, and 0.013, respectively). With the increase in glove looseness, the absorbed energy and burn area first decreased and then increased. The thermal protective performance was best at a looseness of 10 mm (by the largest absorbed energy reduction of 24%). It has been found that long gloves provide better thermal protection than short gloves. For short gloves, adding an elastic belt to the wrist can reduce the absorbed energy, while adding an elastic belt to the cuff for long gloves has a negative effect on the thermal protective performance.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-28T06:11:19Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231171734
Multi-response mixture design applied for the formulation of a textile
green camouflage ink with reproduction of a leaf green
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  Authors: Feifei Xiao, Weidong Xu, Jun Liu, Heng Liu, Liyan Zhu, Qi Jia, Xin Yang, Zhou Yu, Youbin Hao
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  This study establishes a proportioning model of green camouflage ink for textile screen printing to reproduce a leaf green using four high-performance inorganic pigment pastes: cobalt blue, chrome oxide green, chrome yellow, and iron red. In order to study the influence of four-color paste formulations on the camouflage performance of ink, a multi-response quadratic Scheffe mathematical model was established, and a total of 20 runs of color paste formulations were designed. Blending mixed color paste with water-based pure acrylic lotion, drying retarder, and thickener, the ink was then printed to the surface of the khaki camouflage decorative textile through screen printing. The spectral reflectance of the ink film was measured at 380∼1100 nm, and the response values were calculated. The regression model of each response was fitted using the least squares method. The model and verification experiments show that when the color paste formulation is 45.08% cobalt blue, 10.00% chrome green, 40.53% chrome yellow, and 4.39% iron red, the green camouflage ink match the leaf green well. The color difference between the green camouflage ink and the leaf green is less than 3, the reflectance ratio in the near-infrared and infrared bands is not less than 5, and the near-infrared brightness contrast with the leaf green is not more than 0.2. In addition, the green camouflage ink’s reflectivity is located in the leaf green hyperspectral channel.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-28T06:08:19Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231171717
Research and modelling of fiber deformation mechanism of 3D four-direction
preform under compression loading
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  Authors: Baolong Mei, Jiuzhi Dong, Hongqing Ren, Jian Geng, Xiuming Jiang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  In order to investigate further the compaction characteristics of the three-dimensional four-direction preform of carbon/carbon composite, a model of three-dimensional four-direction numerical preform at the micro-scale was established using the programming language in Python based on the ABAQUS simulation platform more realistically to reflect the micro-structure of the preform. A model of three-dimensional fiber numerical growth was built to describe the changes of fiber bundle cross-section under compressive load considering the random distribution, deflection, bending and the physical characteristics of fibers not penetrating each other in three-dimensional space. In addition to exploring the characteristics of the fiber bundle compaction process in the inter-laminar dimension, the interaction between laminated fibers of the preform was analyzed; the method of finite element was employed to construct a compaction model of the three-dimensional four-direction preform; the deformation of inter-laminar fibers under compressive load was studied by the numerical simulation method; the nonlinear mapping relationship between compressive load and compaction height consistent with the preform compaction experiment was obtained. The results demonstrated that the deflection coefficient of the numerical model was 0.32, which was most consistent with the actual result.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-28T06:03:59Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231170315
Research on a novel sheath core-wrap staple yarn based on the ring
spinning frame with special-shaped roller
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  Authors: Wenjie Jiang, Mingrui Guo, Weidong Gao
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  This work explored a novel method for producing sheath core-wrap staple yarn on a modified ring spinning machine. The sheath core-wrap staple yarn is a new composite yarn whose core layer and sheath layer are both composed of staple fibers. In this paper, the conventional front roller on the ring spinning machine was replaced by a special-shaped roller, named a coaxial front roller of different diameters. In the spinning process, two colored cotton rovings were fed into the back roller. Then they are conveyed to the coaxial front roller of different diameters and output at different speeds. Finally, they were spun in a sheath core-wrap staple yarn under the twist effect. The covering effect and properties of sheath core-wrap staple yarn are the critical concerns in this article. Mathematical equations have been derived to calculate the ideal twist multiplier. It is most favorable for the core fiber to be covered at the ideal twist multiplier 408. The effects of the twist multiplier and core proportion on core exposure ratio and yarn properties (tensile properties, abrasion resistance, evenness, and hairiness) were investigated. The results showed that the core exposure ratio of all sheath core-wrap staple yarns were less than 2%, and the minimum core exposure ratio was obtained at the twist multiplier 400. The results also demonstrated that the tensile property, abrasion resistance, evenness, and hairiness improved with the increase of the twist multiplier and the core proportion. The proposed method provides new insight for researchers to fully understand the production process of sheath core-warp staple yarn and improve the yarn quality.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-28T06:00:53Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231169291
In situ synthesis of silver nanoparticles on bamboo viscose fibers
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  Authors: Chang Xu, Zhe Li, Zhiqing Tao, Weihua Sun, Li Cui, Yongbo Yao, Zhiyong Yan
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  In this study, a facile method for preparation of bamboo viscose fibers composite silver nanoparticles by in-situ synthesis was investigated. The bamboo viscose fiber was used as both reducing and protecting agents, and it was reacted with different concentrations of AgNO3 solutions under high temperature and high pressure. The structure and properties of the composites were analyzed by ultraviolet visible spectroscopy analysis, X-ray diffraction analysis, and scanning electron microscopy. The results show that the reaction products are spherical or near-spherical silver nanoparticles with the face-centered cubic geometry. The silver nanoparticles are dispersed uniformly on the surface of the bamboo viscose fibers with the size range of 10–60 nm. A mechanism was proposed where the silver nanoparticles are uniformly loaded onto the bamboo viscose fibers by bonding with the hydroxyl groups containing in the cellulose macromolecules. The antibacterial properties of the bamboo viscose fiber/silver nanoparticles against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus were tested by inhibition zone and dynamic shake flask methods. The results show that when the concentration of AgNO3 solution participating in the reaction was 0.001 M, the antibacterial rate of the composite material on the two kinds of bacteria could reach more than 99%. According to these results, the bamboo viscose fiber/silver nanoparticles nanocomposites with the excellent antibacterial properties offer a potential opportunity to be used as functional antimicrobial fabrics and medical devices.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-28T05:56:40Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231171164
Modeling the temperatures of traveler and ring in ring spinning
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  Authors: Xi Wu, Wenbin Li, Christopher Hurren, Xungai Wang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Ring spinning is the dominant system of manufacturing high-quality yarns in the textile industry. Spinning parameters affect the spinning tension distribution and consequently the temperatures of the ring/traveler system. Excessive traveler heat will limit the spindle speed and the efficiency of yarn production. This study modeled the effect of the traveler weight, yarn count, twist level and spindle speed on the temperatures of the traveler and ring during ring spinning. The finite element method was used to model the temperatures of the ring and the traveler for different spinning parameters. The experimental ring temperature and maximum traveler temperature from the validated model were recorded based on the experimental design. The results show that spindle speed, traveler weight and yarn count had a statistically significant effect on the temperatures of the traveler and the ring, with the spindle speed having the strongest effect. The twist level of yarn, within the range examined, had no statistically significant influence on the traveler and ring temperatures. For a given spindle speed, the traveler weight and yarn count have a significant effect on the maximum temperature of the traveler, and the temperature change is more pronounced at a higher spindle speed.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-26T08:32:13Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231170312
The model of ring-spun slub yarn based on random fiber arrangement and its
application: Part 1. Study on the relationship between fiber distribution
and the length of the transitional segment of slub yarn
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  Authors: Shifeng Wu, Hengshu Zhou, Yuyang Zhou, Haiying Xiong, Chongwen Yu
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  In this paper, the research on the transitional segment of slub yarn mainly focuses on the length of the transitional segment. Slub yarn was simulated by randomly determining the fiber position with the Monte Carlo method according to the draft principle of ring spinning for slub yarn. The length of the transitional segment was obtained by determining its starting and ending position according to the mass curves of the simulated and real-spun slub yarns. According to the data analysis, the fiber length, acceleration and deceleration time on draft rollers’ velocity, and slub multiple affect the length of the transitional segment. Both the lengths of the left and right transitional segments are all equal. The maximum error rate of the simulated value to the measured value of the length of the transitional segment is approximately 12%. The empirical formula has been established to estimate the length of the transitional segment. Compared with those of the simulated and real spun slub yarns, the error rate of the length of the transitional segment calculated by the empirical formula is less than 10%. The research content of this paper provides a basis for studying the appearance and properties of slub yarn.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-26T08:29:42Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231170296
Antibacterial activity and sustained release properties of curcumin-loaded
chitosan microspheres/nanofiber composites membranes for wound healing
applications
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  Authors: Jianhua Lu, Jing Zhang, Chengshu Xu, Shangqi Tang, Shaofeng Lu, Yan Ren, Yudong Shang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The application of bioactive curcumin is limited due to its poor stability, lower absorption, and fast metabolism in the human body. In the present study, chitosan/curcumin microspheres were prepared by reverse emulsion polymerization and electrospun with polyvinyl alcohol to fabricate chitosan/curcumin microspheres with polyvinyl alcohol composite nanofibrous membranes. The fiber morphology of chitosan/curcumin microspheres/polyvinyl alcohol composite nanofibrous membranes was observed by scanning electron microscopy, indicating that there are more continuous and uniform fibers of chitosan/curcumin microspheres/polyvinyl alcohol than those without chitosan/curcumin microspheres. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy was applied to test the chemical structural changes of nanofibrous membranes, which showed that chitosan/curcumin microspheres were physically mixed with polyvinyl alcohol. The mechanical properties of the samples were tested by an electronic fabric strength machine and the tensile strength of the composite nanofibrous membranes can reach 7.e Mpa. The introduced drug release profiles indicated that after 60 h of culturing, the release rate of composite nanofibrous membranes was 69.8%. The bacterial inhibition rate of the composite nanofibrous membranes was assessed through the oscillation method. The results obtained revealed that the bacterial inhibition rate of chitosan/curcumin microspheres/polyvinyl alcohol composite nanofibers was detected up to 99.9% in the 48 h antimicrobial test.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-26T08:27:22Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231170291
Siro false twist spun yarn structure and the knitted fabric performance
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  Authors: Yue Zhang, Fei Zheng, Xia Liu, Liang Zhang, Yuanming Liu, Yanping Liu, Xiaohong Qin
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  False twisting has been used to reduce yarn twists while keeping yarn tenacity, which is vital to improve fabric softness. In this paper, a false twisting device was integrated into a siro spinning system to develop a novel yarn structure with enhanced softness, in which the fibers were uniformly arranged. Siro false twist spun yarn was compared with a conventional siro spun yarn with the same count and twist in terms of yarn diameter, tenacity, hairiness, evenness, and packing density. The cross-sectional packing density of the yarns was analyzed based on micro X-ray computed tomography. The results showed that the siro false twist spun yarn has advantages in hairiness and evenness. The siro false twist spun yarn has an increased diameter by 10.4–19.0% and a more uniform cross-sectional packing density than the siro spun yarn. The two yarns were knitted into fabrics, and test results showed that the fabric produced with the siro false twist spun yarns had better compressibility, air permeability and light transmission. The findings from this study demonstrated that the siro false twist spun yarn improved fullness and its fabric has superior softness.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-26T08:25:22Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231171167
Color mixture model of seven primary color fiber grid blending and rotor
spinning of full-color gamut mixed color yarn
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  Authors: Wenshuo Zhu, Yuan Xue, Yourong Chen
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Based on the three-channel numerical control rotor spinning machine, this paper aims to develop a spinning technology that can control the yarn color in the full-color gamut. A seven primary color fiber grid blending mode and full-color gamut grid color mixture model containing 601 grid points were constructed. The mechanism of three-channel rotor spinning with coordinated regulation of three-channel feeding speed ratio, primary color fibers blending ratio and yarn color was constructed. The process theory of spinning the full-color gamut mixed color yarn based on the full-color gamut grid color mixture model formed by the grid blending of seven primary color fibers was developed. On this basis, 55 trial samples were selected from the full-color gamut grid color mixture model for spinning and knitting into fabric, and the evenness, strength, hairiness and other indicators of the yarn were tested.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-26T08:23:22Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231171163
Connecting surface-mounted electronic elements with amber strand
metal-clad conductive fibers by reflow soldering
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  Authors: Abdella Ahmmed Simegnaw, Benny Malengier, Melkie Getnet, Lieva Van Langenhove
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Electronic yarns contain electronic components which are fully embedded into the conductive yarn’s structure before manufacturing smart textile garments or fabrics. To accept comprehensively the electronic textiles, it is essential to integrate the electronic components into/onto the conductive textile yarn without compromising the quality of the textile substrate. Therefore, one of the solutions is to create flexible and stretchable conductive yarn that contains a small surface-mounted electronic component embedded in the fibers of the conductive yarn. The purpose of this research work is to manufacture and subsequently evaluate the physical and electromechanical properties of amber strand (Toyobo’s p-phenylene benzobisoxazole fiber zylon) yarns with embedded surface-mounted device components. Using a benchtop reflow-soldering machine, the surface-mounted device component was successfully inserted into the amber strand conductive yarn. Then the developed electronic yarn was coated using thermoplastic polyurethane for encapsulation purposes. Furthermore, reliability tests of the electrical and mechanical properties of the electronic yarn (tensile strain and washing) were carried out. From the results it can be seen that the developed thermoplastic polyurethane encapsulated electronic yarn had a tensile strength of 37.38 N with a 4.1 mm extension. Furthermore, the relationship between the strain and washing action on the electrical resistance of the developed electronic yarn was experimentally investigated. The analytical finding shows that mechanical stress and laundry washing had a significant influence on the electrical resistance of the electronic yarn.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-26T08:20:23Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231167864
Texture mapping-based virtual simulation of striped jacquard fabrics
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  Authors: Peixiao Zheng, Gaoming Jiang, Honglian Cong
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Fabric computer-aided design has become a hot research topic in recent years. The main objective of this research is to innovate a method of design, simulation and virtual display for weft-knitted striped jacquard fabrics. Preferentially, the fabric design and simulation models were established and the virtual yarns are intermeshed by connecting each control point of the loops to generate the structural simulation. The simulated image was captured as the texture image. The virtual display method of the garment based on texture mapping was mainly studied and innovated. Texture matching was realized based on the two-dimensional garment piece models and the vertices texture coordinates of the three-dimensional garment models were reset, then the three-dimensional garment virtual display was realized according to the mapping relationship between the triangles. During this process, the position of the texture can be dynamically designed and adjusted to achieve the desired effect. This research introduced the design of four kinds of striped fabrics and illustrated the corresponding simulation and virtual display effect to verify the feasibility of the method. The analysis of simulation efficiency reveals that the method responds quickly and has favorable adaptability to diverse patterns and models. The research provides a new idea for the computer-aided design of knitted fabrics and promotes the development of personalized garment customization.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-21T08:15:47Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231169046
A yarn hanging model for estimating the applied initial warp tension in
the multi-layer weaving process
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  Authors: Yonghao Xu, Wensuo Ma, Chenhui Jia, Xianqing Lei, Zhuangya Zhang, Ma Zhenyu, Man Ruidong, Ma Zhenhao, Yang Liguang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Carbon fiber warp yarns tend to hang due to the gravity in the multi-layer weaving process, which leads to chaotic shedding and impairs fabric quality. The hanging shape of carbon fiber warp yarns is mainly determined by the applied initial warp tension in the weaving process, and excessive warp tension increases the friction between the yarn and the heald frame, resulting in yarn wear. A yarn hanging model based on catenary theory was established to estimate the applied minimum initial warp tension that could ensure clear shedding in the multi-layer weaving process. The relationship between the warp hanging shape and various weaving process parameters (warp tension, yarn specifications and the size of shedding) was obtained. According to the weaving conditions, the applied initial yarn tension could be estimated using the model before manufacturing. Multi-layer yarn hanging experiments were conducted using different specification carbon fibers and yarn tension, and the theoretical predictions and experimental results were compared. The results showed that the yarn hanging model could well simulate the actual hanging characteristics of carbon fiber warp yarn under different tension. The research results provide a tool for estimating the applied initial warp tension in the multi-layer weaving process.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-21T08:12:28Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231169293
Discrete path planning of carbon fiber patch placement with complex
surface
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  Authors: Xiaowei Zhang, Xinfu Chi, Chengchang Ji
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  At present, carbon fiber automatic placement technology is mainly applicable to the preform of large and complex components, while the preform of small size and large curvature carbon fiber components mainly relies on manual placement, which has the problems of high labor cost, slow speed, and low repeatability. In order to realize the automatic placement of carbon fiber components with large curvature and small size, this article adopts the carbon fiber patch placement method to make the preforms. By combining the surface subdivision method and the finite element optimization method of carbon fiber patch placement angle, a discrete path planning method of robotic carbon fiber patch is proposed. This method divides the complex surface into surface fragments with similar curvature and normal angle, which can effectively reduce the wrinkles in the process of carbon fiber patch placement and improve the utilization of carbon fiber patch. At the same time, the stiffness optimization design of carbon fiber patch composite preforming is realized by combining the finite element optimization method of placement angle. The helmet surface was selected as the research object of carbon fiber placement path planning, and the path planning of helmet surface placement was carried out, and the simulation tests of helmet placement in different regions and overall placement were compared. It was found that the stiffness of carbon fiber patches placed in different regions of the helmet surface was better than that of the overall placement.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-17T08:56:15Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231169045
Mode I fracture mechanisms and crack evolution behavior of
three-dimensional braided composites
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  Authors: Juan Fang, Junjie Zhang, Baozhong Sun, Bohong Gu
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Three-dimensional braided composites possess higher inter-laminar fracture toughness than two-dimensional laminates, while the mode I fracture toughness behavior of three-dimensional braided composites is still unknown. Here we report mode I fracture behavior of three-dimensional braided carbon fiber/epoxy composites tested with the double-cantilever beam method. The samples with a pre-crack were tested using the MTS device, and the fracture process was recorded to calculate the fracture toughness. The effects of different loading rates on fracture behavior were compared. The strain field at the crack tip was obtained by the digital image correlation technique. The damage morphologies were scanned by X-ray microcomputer tomography. It was found that the bridging effect of braiding yarns prevents cracks from initiation and propagation, while the intertwining points of the braiding structure cause crack bifurcation. The braided architecture provides an effective way to hinder crack propagation. The stiffness of composites tends to decrease as the loading rate rises. The higher loading rate results in a lower critical load level for crack propagation and reduces fracture toughness. The results show that the three-dimensional braided structure is an effective method for increasing the fracture toughness. We hope the results can be used for the design of higher fracture toughness composite structures.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-17T08:45:05Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231169043
Design and performance research on the automatic sweat-treating fabrics
used for ski suits
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  Authors: Lun Han, Zhiqi Zhao, Huifen Yuan, Ying Cao, Feng Liu, Bin Yu
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Skiers sweat a lot during training, and the sweat will create a wet-cold type environment between the ski suit and the athlete, reducing the wearer’s comfort. In this study, high hygroscopic materials and hydrophobic functional particles were integrated onto the inner fabric of the ski suit by dipping, scraping, spraying and other methods. A kind of fabric with automatic sweat-treating function used for ski suits was developed and the sweat-guiding, sweat-absorbing, sweat-holding, breathing and thermal insulation properties of the samples were tested by using a liquid guiding performance tester, a water content tester, an infrared thermal imager, a thermal plate, an air permeability tester, a moisture permeability tester and other equipment. The results show that the method of changing the hydrophobic properties of different areas of fabric surface and combining and distributing fabrics with different absorbing properties can be used actively to guide the flow direction of sweat on the fabric surface. The samples designed in this study can effectively delay the time for the ski suits to enter the wet-cold type state. Treated samples can effectively protect the insulation layer from being affected by sweat and steam. Before and after sweat absorption, the temperature of the insulation layer of treated samples changes relatively slowly compared with the control group. After finishing, the breathability of the sample decreased, while it still had a good breathability. In conclusion, the automatic sweat-treating fabric developed in this study has good sweat-treating performance.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-17T08:37:14Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231169292
Washable and breathable ultrathin copper-coated nonwoven polyethylene
terephthalate (PET) fabric with chlorinated poly-para-xylylene
(parylene-C) encapsulation for electromagnetic interference shielding
application
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  Authors: Shi Hu, Dan Wang, Dana Křemanáková, Jiří Militký
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Electromagnetic interference shielding clothing has been developed for people who is sensitive to electromagnetic radiation or workers working under extremely high electromagnetic radiation circumstances. The challenge was developing the fabric with good washability, durability, and air permeability. After three machine washing cycles, the electromagnetic interference shielding effectiveness can drop more than 99% for untreated copper-coated fabric. In this research, the chlorinated poly-para-xylylene (parylene C) encapsulating technology was used to protect the fiber's copper particles. The result shows that the treated sample's washing ability will significantly improve after processing 15 g parylene-C on the copper-coated fabrics. The electromagnetic interference shielding effectiveness can remain at 39.93 dB and 25 dB on average from 30 MHz to 3 GHz after 10 hand washing cycles and 10 machine washing cycles, respectively. The air permeability remains around 1043.6 mm/s for a 15 g parylene-C encapsulated sample. The chemical resistance property was also improved significantly after encapsulation of 15 g parylene-C. For the 15 g parylene-C encapsulated samples, there is less than 3% loss of electromagnetic interference shielding effectiveness after 8 h of immersing into pH = 2 and pH = 12 solution. The overall structure of the 15 g parylene-C encapsulated fabric remains intact after 6000 abrasion cycles. The study presents an effective method for fabricating highly durable, comfortable electromagnetic interference shielding fabric, guaranteeing reliability for technical clothing applications and showing great potential for further development.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-13T06:14:12Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231168418
Laboratory evaluation of the filtration behavior of three filters wrapped
around drain pipes in fine tailings based on a radial flow test
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  Authors: Xuan Cui, Dongdong Li, Jingqi Huang, Yabing Han
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Installing drain pipes is an effective way to control the height of the saturation line to improve the stability of tailings dams in mine projects. The filtration and clogging behaviors of filters wrapped around drain pipes have a great impact on their drainage capacity. This article presents results from radial filtration tests with drain pipes wrapped by filtration materials in fine-grained tailings. In the tests, three fibrous filters with different production technologies were used under different hydraulic conditions. The test results were interpreted based on the drainage characteristics of the system, the clogging characteristics and mechanism of each filter after testing, and the particle gradation passing through each filter. The results showed that the needle-punched nonwoven geotextiles had good soil retention properties and poor drainage properties, and one denser cake layer was formed upstream as the experiment progressed. For the heat-bonded nonwoven geotextiles with larger apertures and thinner thicknesses, there was a slight degree of clogging and acceptable drainage capacity. Steel wire mesh with a thinner thickness and homogeneous mesh structure seemed to offer the best anti-clogging and drainage performance by retaining coarse particles and washing out fine particles. Thus, it is inferred that drain pipes wrapped with steel wire mesh are a good choice for alleviating the physical clogging problem.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-13T06:10:14Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231167861
Substrate effect and structure optimization of fabric-based circularly
polarized dipole antenna for radio frequency energy harvesting
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  Authors: Cong Zheng, Jiyong Hu, Jinhua Jiang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Radio frequency energy harvesting on textiles is seen as a method of enabling sustainable battery-free operation for wearable devices, while few works have clarified the influence of fabric properties on antenna performance. To prepare successfully a fabric-based circularly polarized antenna for radio frequency energy harvesting, this paper will clarify the effect of key fabric characteristics (such as dielectric properties and fabric thickness) on antenna performance by a finite element simulation. The simulated results showed the antenna resonant frequency is inversely proportional to the half square of the fabric’s dielectric constant, and the antenna radiation efficiency and gain are inversely proportional to the square of its dielectric loss tangent and thickness. Then, for the typical fabric substrates, the structure parameters of the existing circularly polarized antenna are optimized to work in the expected working frequency band, and the dominating structure parameter of the antenna in performance was identified. The optimized antenna prototype has excellent performance. The antenna has a bandwidth of 350 MHz and a maximum transmission distance of 190 cm. The received signal strength indication per unit area is 2.35 mW/cm2 and the output voltage is 1.19 mV/cm2 at a distance of 100 cm. It is concluded that the flexible size-minimized wide bandwidth circularly polarized radio frequency energy harvesting antenna screen-printed on fabric was derived from a commercial circularly polarized antenna with fiber-reinforced epoxy plate (FR4) substrate, and the critical geometrical and material parameters of the fabric substrate for this antenna performance as well as the affecting mechanism were identified.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-12T08:14:33Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231168424
Application of image processing technology on testing blending ratio and
blending irregularity of blended yarns
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  Authors: Qiaoli Cao, Yuyang Zhou, Chongwen Yu
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The blending ratio and blending irregularity of the blended yarn determine its property and quality. In this article, the image processing method was introduced to accurately and conveniently measure the blending ratio and blending irregularity of blended yarn by using images of the blended yarn cross sections. The Euclidean distance peeling method was applied to segment the adhered fibers to make them individual. Then, the fibers were classified according to characteristic parameters of fiber cross section such as color, shape, and area. The experiments were implemented to verify the accuracy and applicability of the image processing method to test the irregularity of blended bundles, slivers, and yarns by different fibers including polyester, viscose, and wool. The results show that the fiber identification error rate of the image processing method for blended bundles, compared with the designed, is less than 2%; the blending irregularity difference rate between image processing method and the manual counting method is less than 5% for blended sliver by sliver blending; the difference rate of the blending ratio of polyester/viscose blended yarn between designed and measured by image processing method is less than 5%, while manual counting method is less than 10%. The findings mean that the image processing method proposed in this article can greatly save labor and time on identifying and counting fibers, and it is a more accurate, convenient, and reliable method to test blending irregularity.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-12T08:08:25Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231168420
Systematic review of selecting comfortable sportswear: Predicting wearing
comfort based on physiological responses and materials properties
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  Authors: He T Wei, Wing S Chan, Daniel HK Chow
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  PurposeThere is insufficient research to confirm whether wearing comfort can be accurately predicted by physiological responses during exercise when wearing sportswear with functionality. This review investigated the possibility of predicting subjective comfort based on material properties when selecting sportswear.Design/methodology/approach: A systematic review was performed in accordance with PRISMA. Two independent reviewers searched six electronic databases, including Web of Science, PubMed, Medline, CINAHL, Scopus, and EMBASE, for experimental studies published between 1 January 2000 and 31 January 2022. The included studies were analyzed for their study characteristics and evaluated for their risk of bias level.FindingsTwenty-five studies were selected from 5906 papers resulting from the initial searches. The results of the analysis suggested that considering factors beyond moisture management function in sportswear selection, such as type of activity, environment, individual habits, and prior experience, can help wearers better predict their comfort during exercise.Research limitations/implications: All included studies have a small sample size; the participants’ fitness level has not been properly defined and standardized; the dependent variables measured in these studies vary, and there is a lack of standard approach to measure comfort.Originality: The understanding and the correlation between wearing comfort and fabric characteristics is necessary because such relationships can be very complex. This review provides information to further advance our knowledge in understanding the dynamic interactions of the factors that may affect perceived comfort in selecting sportswear. A three-step conceptual framework consisting of material properties, physiological response, and comfort sensation is suggested to determine sportswear comfort.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-12T07:58:05Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231167863
Recent research progress of conductive polymer-based supercapacitor
electrode materials
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  Authors: Haojie Duan, Yuanjun Liu, Xiaoming Zhao
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  With the serious impact of fossil fuels on the environment and the rapid development of the global economy, the development of clean and usable energy storage devices has become one of the most important themes of sustainable development in the world today. Supercapacitors, known as ultracapacitors, have been supposed to be one of the most promising candidates to meet the requirements of human sustainable development, due to their advantages such as high capacity, high power density, high charging/discharging speed, long cycle life, and low processing cost. However, the low energy density of supercapacitors limits their large-scale application. Therefore, it is of great significance to develop high energy density supercapacitors and use them as power sources for practical devices. Conductive polymer-based electrode materials have unique advantages such as high theoretical capacitance, good conductivity, and good flexibility, and have high potential in supercapacitors. The research on conductive polymer-based electrode materials has promoted the rapid development of the field of supercapacitors. This review summarizes recent research progress on conductive polymers (including polypyrrole, polyaniline, and polythiophene), conductive polymer-based binary composites, and conductive polymer-based ternary and quaternary composites for supercapacitor electrodes. Furthermore, a summary of the use of conductive polymer-based textiles and fibers for flexible supercapacitors is also presented, along with the current challenges and future perspectives for conductive polymer-based supercapacitors.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-10T07:26:27Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231167602
Optimizing process parameters for the production of intercalated
melt-blown nonwoven materials for face masks based on machine learning
algorithms
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  Authors: Zeyan Li, Xiaoping Wang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Currently a new type of coronavirus is raging around the world, and many countries have relaxed the control of the epidemic. Wearing a mask has become the best self-protection measure for people to travel. Intercalated melt-blown nonwoven materials are in short supply as filter layers for daily-worn masks. This paper studies the relationship between the process parameters and structural variables of intercalated melt-blown nonwoven materials, and creatively uses machine learning-related algorithms to solve its nonlinear relationship. The optimized back propagation neural network model is the most suitable in this field, and the goodness of fit can reach more than 99.99%. Based on various limitations of actual industrial production, this model is used to traverse the process parameters, and the intercalated melt-blown nonwoven material is obtained. The best process parameters, in which the receiving distance is 27 cm, and the hot air velocity is 890 r/min, in this case, the thickness and porosity of the material produced are very low, while the compression resilience is very high, considering the filtration efficiency of the mask and comfort.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-06T09:30:50Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231167862
Characterizing fabric shape retention by sequential image analysis
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  Authors: Pengfei Zhang, Zining Huang, Qiantong Zhou, Lei Wang, Ruru Pan, Yanna Fei, Weidong Gao
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Fabric shape retention is one of the most important attributes of fabrics that can influence the quality of the end use product. In this paper, we present a computer vision-based method to analyze the sequential images, which records the dynamic change of a deformed fabric, to model the recovery process, and extract the features of the recovery curve to characterize the shape retention after the deformation. Image processing and the perceptual hash algorithm were used to convert the measurements of a fabric shape variable at different times into Hamming distance points. The recovery function of the fabric shape was formed by fitting the Hamming distance points with exponential function, and three new shape retention indexes, that is, the average slope, the abscissa of the inflation point, and the radius of curvature at the inflation point, were defined based on the recovery function. The experiment showed that the shape retention of 12 fabric samples after deformation could be effectively distinguished by the new indexes. This paper also discussed the relationships between the new indexes and the transitional measurements indicating the fabric shape retention.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-06T09:26:09Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231167605
A dynamic drafting model with the frictional force between fibers
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  Authors: Jule Fan, Yuze Zhang, Jun Wang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Roller drafting is one of the most critical processes in spinning. This study established a dynamic drafting model and simulated the drafting process affected by the frictional force between fibers. In the simulation, the dynamic drafting process of fibers was simulated by calculating the movement time of fibers in the drafting zone. Moreover, the dynamic accelerating process of fibers was simulated by calculating the frictional force between fibers during the dynamic drafting process. Therefore, this model could simulate the dynamic drafting process affected by the frictional force between fibers. The proposed model was validated by the comparison with the experimental data of accelerated point distribution and output sliver irregularity. In addition, the distribution of accelerated points and fibers with various drafting ratios was simulated. The simulated results indicated that the greater the draft ratio, the more the slow fibers and the fewer the fast fibers in the drafting zone. Furthermore, the accelerated point distribution was more concentrated and closer to the front roller nip line. Thus, this model can offer a valuable reference to investigate the principle of influence of drafting conditions on the drafting process.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-06T09:21:30Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231166395
Functionalization of silk with chitosan and Rubia cordifolia L. dye
extract for enhanced antimicrobial and ultraviolet protective properties
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  Authors: Khai Ly Do, Miao Su, Asim Mushtaq, Taswar Ahsan, Feng Zhao
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Natural dyes have attained the interest of scientists over the last decade due to their functional activities in addition to their primary role of color impartation on textile materials. This study is the first report on the functionalization of silk with antimicrobial and ultraviolet protective properties using a dye extract from the roots of Rubia cordifolia L. in conjunction with chitosan as a bio-mordant. Alum mordant was also used in the dyeing process alongside chitosan for comparison purposes. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and ultraviolet-visible spectroscopy were utilized to determine the anthraquinone-based components of the dye extract. Furthermore, the structure and surface morphology of silk fibers before and after dyeing were investigated. The dyed silk samples exhibited good fastness against washing, rubbing, and lighting. The chitosan mordanted-dyed silk presented remarkable antimicrobial properties with maximum inhibitions of 96.71% and 99.08% against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus, respectively, and only 2.3% spore germination of white mold (Aspergillus spp.). Likewise, an excellent ultraviolet protection factor was achieved in the chitosan modified-dyed silk. The findings of this study demonstrated the potential of the Rubia cordifolia L. extract as a functional dye, as well as the advanced properties of chitosan in increasing the fastness and functional performance for the dyed silk compared to alum mordant.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-05T12:52:29Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231167603
Contribution of zeolite to remove malachite green in aqueous solution by
adsorption processes: Kinetics, isotherms and thermodynamic studies
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  Authors: Moussa Abbas, Mohamed Trari
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The textile industry produces huge amounts of wastewaters containing synthetic dyes. In the textile industry, acid, basic, reactive, dispersed chemicals are widely used for dyeing. The aim of this study was to evaluate the adsorption of malachite green onto zeolite from aqueous solutions was realized in batch system. The adsorbent was characterized by the Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, X-ray analysis, and zero point charge (pHzpc = 10.42). However, some examined factors were found to have significant impacts on the adsorption capacity of zeolite such as the initial malachite green concentration (Co), solution pH, adsorbent dose, agitation speed, particles size, and temperature. The best capacity was found at pH 8 with an adsorbent dose 0.2 g/l, an agitation speed 200 rpm and a contact time of 40 min. The kinetic adsorptions were found to follow rather a pseudo-second order kinetic model with a determination coefficient (R2) of 0.999. The equilibrium adsorption data for the malachite green adsorption onto the zeolite were analyzed by the Langmuir, Freundlich, Elovich, and Temkin models. The results indicate that the Langmuir model provides the best correlation with a capacity qmax of 83.33 mg/g at 25°C. The adsorption isotherms at different temperatures have been used for the determination of thermodynamic parameters, namely the free energy (ΔG°); enthalpy (ΔH°) and entropy (ΔS°) to predict the nature of adsorption. The positive values of ΔG° and ΔH° indicate that the overall adsorption is not spontaneous and endothermic with a physisorption process. The adsorbent elaborated from the zeolite was found to be efficient and suitable for the elimination of reactive dyes from aqueous solutions, due to its availability of adsorption sites, low cost preparation, and good uptake capacity.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-05T12:49:28Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231165336
Prediction of parameters in the laser fading process of denim using
convolutional neural networks
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  Authors: Yiyang Tong, Qian Wang, Zhen Wang, Zihui Liang, Qiang Xu, Danying Zuo, Changhai Yi
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Laser technology has been widely used in ecological fading of denim. However, the setting of parameters in the laser fading process mainly depends on the subjective experience of workers. After many attempts, an approximate effect can hardly be obtained. There are various defects in this way such as low fading efficiency, poor fading effect and high production cost, etc. This study proposed a novel method for predicting the parameters of the denim laser fading process using convolutional neural network technology. It starts from data collection, and uses laser technology to select different combinations of laser parameters to conduct laser fading experiments on 100% cotton indigo denim fabrics, and obtains denim image datasets of different laser fading effects. The prediction model of parameters in the laser fading process of denim was established by learning from the dataset with the convolutional neural network. The model could intelligently generate the approximation parameter group according to the fading image and performed well on the validation dataset with finite prediction error. Based on the obtained parameters, it could be effectively used and dramatically reduced the manpower and material resources in setting up a denim laser fading process.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-05T12:45:29Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231162643
Geometrical modeling of yarn motion and analysis of yarn tension during
stitch formation process in warp knitting machines
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  Authors: Anke Golla, Christian Franz, Eric Haentzsche, Gerald Hoffmann, Cornelia Sennewald, Chokri Cherif
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  In the textile sector, the sustainable development and production of high-performance and high-quality textiles has become increasingly important. To enable the processing of new yarn materials at high production speeds, the in-depth understanding of the relationships between machine elements, yarn path, and yarn tension is required. Therefore, the aim of this paper is to analyze the interactions between the warp knitting machine unit and the yarn path during the stitch formation process by means of theoretical modeling and experimental investigation. A vector-based model has been developed to describe the kinematic yarn path and its correlation with yarn demand during the stitch formation process. The model is validated by measurements of yarn path and yarn tension on a warp knitting machine. The model is used to identify both machine and yarn guide elements that influence stitch formation.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-04-04T06:14:55Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231166150
Comparative analysis of polyimide and aramid fabrics as arc protective
materials
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  Authors: Chang Ma, Xiongying Duan, Pengcheng Yue, Muhan Tang, Minfu Liao
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Arc explosion accidents in live working seriously threaten the safety of power workers. At present, the mainstream arc protective clothing material is aramid and blends of aramid. However, aramid will produce toxic gas under high temperature combustion, which is harmful to the health of operators. Therefore, it is a special challenge to study fabrics that are friendly to the human body and have a highly protective performance to protect electrical workers. Polyimide is nontoxic and has excellent high temperature resistance, flame retardation, and mechanical properties. In this paper, polyimide was proposed to be used as an arc protective clothing material. In order to explore the feasibility of polyimide in the field of arc protection, molecular dynamics simulation was used to compare the heat resistance of polyimide and aramid in terms of bond order and glass transition temperature. Referring to ASTM F1959 and IEC 61482-1-1, an arc test apparatus was built to test the protective properties of materials. The protection failure mechanism was analyzed by comparing the safety protective performance of polyimide and aramid fabric under the arc. It was found that polyimide has better arc thermal protective performance and break open threshold. The simulation and test results show that polyimide can be used as a material for arc protective clothing to improve protective performance.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-03-29T11:50:51Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231158819
Numerical simulation of airflow field in rotor spinning channel based on
dynamics optimization
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  Authors: Haifei Qiu, Ruian Yan, Pengfei Huang, Hongwei Zhang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  To respond to high-speed characteristics and complicated airflow of the air-extraction rotor, the paper takes advantage of ANSYS parametric design language to develop the parametric finite element modeling program by taking the geometric feature of the slip plane as the design variable, so as to propose a mathematical model applicable to dynamics optimization of the rotor. The optimal design parameters of the slip plane are obtained through dynamics optimization (α ≈ 13.92°, L ≈ 11.17 mm), and the centrifugal stress and static deformation of the rotor body are further reduced while increasing its fundamental frequency by about 7.15%, so that it can adapt to higher safety critical speed. The RNG k-ε turbulence physics model is applied to the numerical simulation of the airflow field in the optimal spinning channel, and a computational domain of single-phase steady fluid with nonstructural mesh is constructed by using ICEM CFD and FLUENT software. On this basis, the simulation result with excellent convergence of the flow field is obtained through the SIMPLE algorithm and pressure-velocity coupled solution. In addition, by virtue of the two-dimensional and three-dimensional flow field characteristic analysis for key fields (like the rotor wall, fiber pipeline, false twister, collecting groove, inlet and outlet), the airflow field state in the spinning channel (like the static pressure, dynamic pressure, velocity vector field, turbulence intensity and streamline trajectory) is confirmed, which will be conducive to gain a deep insight into the open-end spinning mechanism of the air-extraction rotor.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-03-28T09:28:41Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231163343
Functional dyeable polypropylene fabric development and process parameter
optimization. Part II: Development of graphene thermal insulation dyeable
polypropylene fabric with process parameter optimization
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  Authors: Shih-Hsiung Chen, Chung-Feng Jeffrey Kuo
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  This series of studies developed a nanographene modified dyeable polypropylene yarn with far-infrared properties making it suitable for winter clothing fabrics. In this paper, part II, the dyeable polypropylene granules developed in part I are used as a base material and, with the addition of graphene nanopowder, melt-mixed and melt-spun to produce 75 d/24 f fully drawn yarn. The physical properties of the yarn, namely, yarn count, tensile strength, elongation at break, far-infrared emissivity, and far-infrared temperature rise, are investigated, and the impact of the melt-spinning process parameters, namely, graphene nanopowder content, mold temperature, melt temperature, gear pump speed, hot roller speed and take-up speed on the quality of the yarn, is determined. The Taguchi method, combined with gray relational analysis, is used to design experiments through which an optimal set of melt-spinning process parameters maximizing the multi-characteristic quality of the yarn is obtained. This optimized nanographene modified dyeable polypropylene yarn has a tensile strength of 3.5 g/d, elongation at break of 41.0%, yarn count of 75.3 d, far-infrared emissivity of 82%, far-infrared temperature rise of 21.0°C, washing fastness grade of 3–4 and surface resistance of 3 × 108 Ω.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-03-28T09:24:35Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221147720
Prediction of optimum alkaline hydrolysis conditions for imparting
superhydrophobicity to large-area fabrics using three-dimensional modeling
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  Authors: Yoonkyung Cho, Sungmin Kim
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  This study proposes a fabric-specific alkaline hydrolysis method to impart stable water repellency to large-area polyester fabrics, regardless of yarn type or weave pattern. The geometries of 120 virtual fabrics with varying yarn properties, weave patterns, and weave densities are modeled, and their surface-etching efficiency and superhydrophobicity are predicted. While the alkaline hydrolysis-derived nano-structuring efficiencies of fabrics are predicted based on the Kallay and Grancaric model (1990) with changes to reflect the fiber volume fraction F as a major variable for fabric structures. For predicting superhydrophobicity, the fabric meso-structure contact angle is calculated based on the Michielsen and Lee model (2007); the fixed yarn distance used in the original model is replaced by the simulated inter-yarn porosity P to exclude error caused by structural variability. The final virtual fabric contact angle is predicted reflecting the effect of nano-roughness, which is validated by comparing the predicted contact angle with a physical sample having identical geometries. The contact angle of any fabric can be predicted using structural simulation, given the alkaline treatment conditions are adjusted according to the unique geometry of each fabric to express superhydrophobicity. Moreover, even for samples with low predictive contact angles, superhydrophobicity can be achieved by maximizing the effect of the nanostructure through strong alkaline treatment. An ISO 5 water repellency is achieved for all large-area polyester fabrics.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-03-24T08:25:34Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231165334
Compostability of wool textiles by soil burial
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  Authors: Alexandra Hodgson, Samuel James Leighs, Chikako van Koten
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Chemical processing has the potential to impact the composting of wool fabrics, influencing potential end of life options. The aim of this study was to investigate the comparative composting behaviors of a range of knitted and woven merino apparel fabrics. The range included scoured only control fabrics and variants which had undergone different chemical processes during manufacturing, including dyeing, bleaching, stain-repellence and various shrink-resist treatments. Biodegradation by composting was elicited by a soil-burial process incorporating three sets of randomized samples buried to a depth of 10 cm. Replicates were removed at regular intervals up to a maximum of 15 weeks burial. The dyes present in the fabric showed the greatest impact on composting. Chrome dyed samples exhibited only 60% mass loss over the trial period, whereas the other 10 fabrics all lost on average over 95%. When assessing easy care treatments, chlorine–Hercosett provided consistent initial resistance to decomposition. Soil burial test results suggested that chemical processing does impact the composting of wool fabrics, under the conditions of soil burial. Statistically significant longer-term effects were only observed for the chrome dyed sample. • Chemical processing of wool fabrics influences the onset of composting as a result of soil burial. • Dyeing fabrics had the greatest impact on the onset of composting as a result of soil burial. • Machine-washable wool has initial resistance to decomposition, compared with untreated wool, as a result of soil burial.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-03-22T09:27:06Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231163590
A design-driven creation of an innovative and environment-friendly
nature-based yarn with moisture wicking and fast-drying effect
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  Authors: LinFeng Song, Yifei Tao, Tin Wai Cheung, Li Li
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Wicking in textiles is a key property of fabric moisture permeability, which has been found to be dominant in the comfort-maintaining mechanism of apparel products, especially for sportswear that has high requirements for sweat transfer. Various methods have been given in order to improve moisture transfer behavior of fabrics, among which fiber modification is the most direct and ideal way. In this article, a design-driven yarn structure spinning model for moisture wicking improvement is established by using a helically shaped covering material to limit the inter-fiber spacings of the staple core yarn so that an improvement in effective capillary channels with better continuity can be achieved. The developed yarn constructions combine the advantages of natural and synthetic fibers, showing significant improvements on moisture wicking performance, fast-drying effects as well as commercial values. Experiments on the fabrics made in accordance achieved excellent results both before and after washing. For the most efficient fabric 5 with cotton-linen as the core material, the average diffusion time was decreased by 86.4% and 66.5% before and after washing, compared with the core yarn. Excessively large water absorption rates of the control fabrics were limited and decreased by 22.1% and 32.4%. The evaporation rates of the fabric were increased by 25.6% and 18.5%, indicating obvious improvements in fast drying effects. Through various experiments, the optimal spinning parameters were investigated which provided methods and established foundations for subsequent research. The finding in this study offer the possibility of fiber moisture performance modification with high efficiency, low cost, and environmental sustainability.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-03-22T09:09:05Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231163587
Cationic etherification modification of corn starch and its sizing
property
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  Authors: Mingyuan Liu, Zikai Wu, Yuchen Meng, Zongwen Wang, Xinyang He, Jiatai Gu, Yue Zhang, Liming Wang, Xiaohong Qin
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  In order to solve the difficulty of starch being insoluble under medium and low temperature, a cationic starch slurry modified with etherification was developed. Raw starch was hydrolyzed by sodium hydroxide to improve the dispersion performance, and then the hydrolyzed starch was endowed with cationic groups by N-2,3-epoxy-propyl trimethyl ammonium chloride to improve the dispersion stability. Through various characterization methods, it was found that the quaternary ammonium cationic starch obtained was dissolved in water at medium and low temperature, and the starch structure was changed under the influence of sodium hydroxide and N-2,3-epoxy-propyl trimethyl ammonium chloride. Furthermore, the mechanical properties and abrasion resistance of cotton yarn treated with cationic starch could be significantly improved. Compared with the original yarn, the breaking strength of the yarn treated with cationic starch was increased by 70.05%, the hairiness index of the yarn was reduced by 87.5%, the abrasion resistance was increased by 500.00%, and the stiffness decreased by 276.47%. In addition, the Zeta potential of modified starch was positive, and the degree of etherification substitution of starch ranged from 0.02 to 0.26. The preparation method of etherified starch obtained has the advantages of environmental protection, low cost, and a simple process, which provides a novel way to construct textile size.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-03-20T06:13:31Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231163869
Fabrication of ecofriendly composites using low-density polyethylene and
sugarcane bagasse: Characteristics’ degradation
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  Authors: Dalia Saber, Asmaa H Abdelnaby, Ayman M Abdelhaleim
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  In recent years, research into replacing synthetic fibers with natural fibers as reinforcements in thermoplastic composites has developed rapidly. The main objective of this work is to produce eco-friendly and cost-effective composite material. This material consists of natural fiber of sugarcane bagasse as the reinforcing component and thermoplastic polymer of low-density polyethylene as a matrix. The injection molding technique was used to produce the test samples. The fabricated composite contained 30 wt.% sugarcane bagasse. The effects of natural fiber sugarcane bagasse content, chemical treatment, and the addition of maleic anhydride as coupling agent on the composite degradation were studied. The degradation of sugarcane bagasse/low-density polyethylene composite under ultraviolet radiation and the thermal degradation were investigated. In addition, the amount of absorbance ultraviolet radiation by the fabricated composites was studied using ultraviolet-visible spectroscopy in the range from 200–800 nm. The effect of carbon black particles added to the fabricated composite on the degradation by ultraviolet exposure was also investigated. The results showed that the compatibilized sugarcane bagasse/low-density polyethylene composites at 3 wt.% maleic anhydride concentration revealed a higher decomposition temperature (466°C) than that of the uncompatibilized composites (460°C). This ensures that the thermal degradation temperature was improved by using the maleic anhydride coupling agent. Moreover, using the coupling agent showed significant resistance to degradation by ultraviolet exposure. Furthermore, the addition of 2.5 wt.% carbon black enabled more resistance to degradation by ultraviolet exposure.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-03-17T06:53:10Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231161281
Tactile perception of textile fabrics using event-related potentials and
nonlinear methods
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  Authors: Chaoquan Tang, Tengfei Zhuang, Xingxing Fang, Chuang Yu, Wei Tang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Tactile perception is processed in the somatosensory cortices of the brain. To study the electrical activity of the brain evoked by the tactile perceptions of fabric textures, electroencephalograph signals during tactile perception were evaluated using event-related potentials and recurrence quantification analysis methods. A support vector machine was used to realize the identification of electroencephalograph signals. The results showed that fabric surface with large surface roughness, critical buckling force, and fiber diameter, and low warp-weft density was preferentially perceived, need large attentional resources, and evoke strong nonstationary state of the electroencephalographic system during the tactile perception. The δ rhythm was the main rhythm of event-related potential signals evoked by tactile perception of fabrics and the main energy of the electroencephalograph rhythm was concentrated in the low frequency band. The electroencephalographic system was in a strong nonstationary and fluctuating state during the production stage of P200 and P300 components of the event-related potential wave. The combination of P200, P300, mean diagonal line length L, and trapping time TT can significantly improve the classification accuracy of the electroencephalograph signal of tactile perception to about 72%.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-03-14T07:38:18Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231162877
Analysis of crystallization during polypropylene melt-blown fiber
formation
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  Authors: Mingjing Chen, Xiaoxia Sun, Xinhou Wang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Melt-blown nonwovens with randomly distributed micron fibers are widely used because of their excellent properties such as high porosity and high filtration efficiency. It is necessary to study the crystallization behavior of the polymer during the melt-blowing process because crystallization affects the formation and properties of the melt-blown fibers. In this study, the nonisothermal crystallization under high-speed cooling conditions and the isothermal crystallization on the collector in the melt-blowing process were investigated. The thermal history of polypropylene during the melt-blowing process was restored by flash differential scanning calorimetry tests. The results showed that the polymer hardly crystallized during the high-speed cooling process from the spinneret to the collector in the case of considering the temperature. The air pressure promoted the crystallinity of melt-blown fibers. The shear effect of the airflow field was considered the main factor affecting the crystallization of melt-blown fibers. The results were beneficial to the establishment of the melt-blowing micro-theoretical model and the control of the final performance of the melt-blown fibers.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-03-14T07:36:17Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231163341
Effect of flip-chip bonding parameters on the property of passive UHF RFID
tags with screen-printed antenna on fabric
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  Authors: Fenye Meng, Jiyong Hu
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The substrate material plays an important role in industrialized flip-chip technology of the passive ultra-high frequency radio frequency identification with antenna printed on flexible film. This work presents the flip-chip fabrication and performance evaluation of ultra-high frequency radio frequency identification with screen-printed antenna on common woven fabrics. The antennas were manufactured by screen printing a stretchable silver-based conductor directly on a common woven nylon fabric. The electrical and mechanical connection between the screen-printed antennas and microchips was formed by flip-chip technology, which bridged the antenna with the microchip under a heating contactor with additive anisotropic conductive adhesives, and the effects of heating contactor parameters (contactor pressure, temperature and duration time) on the performance of radio frequency identification tag prototypes were investigated, and the influence mechanism was discussed in terms of the conductivity, the resonance frequency shift and the morphology. The experiment results show that the flip-chip bonding conditions set in the case of screen-printed antenna on nylon fabric is 0.7 N contactor pressure, 120°C heating temperature and 0.6 s heating duration time, different from the case of previous plastic-like thin film substrate, and this is mainly attributed to the compressive and rough surface of the fabric-based antennas. In addition, the flip-chip heating temperature should be consistent with that of screen-printed conductive ink to ensure a stable electrical connection between the antenna and microchip, as well as good performance of fabric-based ultra-high frequency radio frequency identification tags. These conclusions provide a tool for manufacturing large-scale fabric-based ultra-high frequency radio frequency identification tags and characterizing the process quality.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-03-14T07:29:13Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231162642
Factors affecting knitted fabric slipperiness and smoothness
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  Authors: Keiko Suganuma
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  In this study, the factors affecting the slipperiness and smoothness of knitted fabrics were statistically analyzed to facilitate the effective design and development of knitted fabrics. Both slipperiness and smoothness are important properties of a fabric, with impacts on clothing comfort, sports records and the medical or safety performance of textile products. In this study, the average value of frictional coefficient (MIU) of a knitted fabric, which is correlated with the slipperiness of the fabric, and the fluctuations of the average frictional coefficient (MMD), which is correlated with the smoothness of the fabric, were measured by using a friction tester (KES-SE). The friction coefficient of the knitted fabric was found to depend on three factors: linearity of the loop arrangement, fuzziness and real contact area of the fabric. The contribution ratio of each factor to fabric slipperiness was calculated. In addition, the friction coefficient of the fabric was highly correlated with its course or wale densities. On the other hand, the smoothness of the fabric was affected by the linearity of fabric loop arrangement, but not by fabric fuzziness or the real contact area.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-03-08T09:58:32Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231159677
Effects of the modification of bacterial cellulose as a template for the
in situ enzyme-catalyzed polymerization of catechol
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  Authors: Euijin Shim, Carla Silva, Artur Cavaco-Paulo, Hye Rim Kim
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  In this study, we investigated the effects of the modification of bacterial cellulose used as a template on the in situ polymerization of catechol by laccase. The bacterial cellulose was modified by sulfonation and the entrapment of carboxymethyl cellulose. The catechol polymerization was optimized at a pH of 5.5, catechol concentration of 50 mM, and synthesis time of 24 h. After the in situ polymerization, conductive and colored bacterial cellulose composites were obtained. The bacterial cellulose composites containing oligomers/polymers were analyzed using Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy, and color strength measurements, and the conductivity of the bacterial cellulose composites was evaluated using a four-probe method. The results revealed that the modification of bacterial cellulose as a template for catechol oxidation resulted in the production of fibers with enhanced coloration and conductive properties owing to the presence of the enzymatically-obtained polymers. The results suggest the promising potential of both sulfonated bacterial cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose-bacterial cellulose as templates for the formation of other functional polymers and composite materials.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-03-08T09:55:11Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231158821
Nature dye/nanosphere dispersion with high light stability and
colorability for cellulose fabric
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  Authors: Changcheng Zhang, Xiaoqiang Ma, Ting Pan, Yan Zhang, Huiyu Jiang, Jinbo Yao
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Monodisperse poly (methyl acrylate-meth-acyloxy-ethyl trimethylammonium chloride) cationic nanospheres were synthesized by soap-free emulsion polymerization, and were subsequently combined with gardenia to prepare dye/nanospheres. The influence of the concentration of gardenia yellow, rate of vortexing, temperature and pH of mixing on the adsorption capacity and stability of microspheres were thoroughly investigated, and the prepared gardenia/poly (methyl acrylate-meth-acyloxy-ethyl trimethylammonium chloride) nanospheres acted as liquid pigments to dye the fabric substrates by the impregnation method. In particular, the photostability of gardenia/poly (methyl acrylate-meth-acyloxy-ethyl trimethylammonium chloride) and the reflection of its dyed fabrics are distinctly described, the comparison of the dyeing property effect between gardenia/poly (methyl acrylate-meth-acyloxy-ethyl trimethylammonium chloride) and gardenia yellow dyed by mordant dyeing were analyzed. According to the experimental findings, the dyestuff nanospheres have high stability when the pH is 7–8, the mass ratio of gardenia yellow to poly (methyl acrylate-meth-acyloxy-ethyl trimethylammonium chloride) nanospheres was 12.8:1, the temperature was 60°C for 30 min, and the mixing speed was 500 rpm. Dyeing cotton fabrics with gardenia/poly (methyl acrylate-meth-acyloxy-ethyl trimethylammonium chloride) produced higher color strength and color fastness than the gardenia yellow with mordant dyeing.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-03-08T09:51:52Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221150834
Study on thermal, mechanical, and wettability properties of
three-dimensional weft-knitted spacer fabrics with various silica aerogels
coating
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  Authors: Syed Rashedul Islam, Wendi Wang, Pan Junjie, Jinhua Jiang, Huiqi Shao, Nanliang Chen
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  This study investigated the thermal, mechanical, and oil absorption-retention properties at various temperatures (20°C, 30°C, 40°C, 50°C, and 60°C) of three-dimensional (3D) weft-knitted spacer fabrics with optimal performance of silica aerogel coating that demands exceptional attention. Silica aerogels and (silica aerogels + poly(vinyl-alcohol)) sols were prepared and coated on 3D weft-knitted spacer fabrics to study and compare the basic properties, i.e. thermal resistance, thermal conductivity, tensile strength, initial modulus, compression, bending rigidity, wettability, oil absorption, and retention capacity. The scanning electron microscopy and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy studies were completed to understand the influence of both coatings on 3D weft-knitted spacer fabrics such as surface morphology and molecular interaction. The tensile, bending, and compression tests of 3D weft-knitted spacer fabrics were accomplished to check their durability, bendability, and compressibility. All the coated samples (both silica aerogels and (silica aerogels + poly(vinyl-alcohol))) showed greater thermal resistance (0.0971 ± 0.0003 m2 KW−1 and 0.0912 ± 0.0005 m2−1KW−1) and the lower thermal conductivity would be (0.0309 ± 0.0001 Wm−1 K−1 and 0.0329 ± 0.0002 Wm−1 K−1) instead of (0.0329 ± 0.0002 Wm−1 K−1 and 0.0329 ± 0.0002 Wm−1 K−1) with better thermal stability than the uncoated samples, most specifically coated sample 5. Besides, coated sample 5 exposed higher oil absorption ((7.91 ± 0.06 g/g and 7.88 ± 0.06 g/g) and (7.56 ± 0.04 g/g and 7.53 ± 0.04 g/g)) and retention ((90.10 ± 0.53% and 89.07 ± 0.55%) and (92.47 ± 0.49% and 91.43 ± 0.47%)) capacity for vegetable and engine oil in all conditions, especially at 40°C. The outcomes demonstrated that both coatings played a vital role in the thermal, mechanical, and wettability properties of 3D weft-knitted spacer fabrics with statistically significant performance (p
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-03-08T09:07:32Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231161777
Unsupervised defect segmentation on denim fabric via local patch
prediction and residual fusion
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  Authors: Mengshang Gu, Jian Zhou, Ruru Pan, Weidong Gao
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Deep learning-based defect inspection has gained popularity in recent years. The dataset requirements for the supervised learning-based method are currently high, but the types of defects are numerous and difficult to gather. This work proposes a local image reconstruction-based unsupervised fabric defect segmentation method to address this problem. Cyclic structures make up the normal portion of the fabric image, whereas the defects are anomalous and minor in comparison. As a result, the defect will be recreated as a normal texture utilizing the information from its surrounding areas, and the defect information will be preserved in the residual image. By masking the same area with various shapes, different reconstruction outcomes and residual images can be achieved. The signal of the defect will be amplified and the noise will be decreased due to the random distribution when the generated residual pictures are fused, which can effectively identify the defect from the noise and lower the false detection rate. On the denim fabric dataset, the proposed unsupervised method can achieve high precision fabric defect segmentation, with the defect detection rate and detection precision reaching at least 85% and 89%, respectively, with high efficiency (approximately 60 m/min inspection speed), outperforming other fabric defect segmentation methods.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-28T06:42:37Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231153620
Electrical properties and electromagnetic shielding effectiveness of
cotton/antistatic polyester knitted fabrics treated with antibacterial
finish
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  Authors: Norina Asfand, Virginija Daukantienė
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The electrical properties and electromagnetic shielding effectiveness of raw, dyed and softened, and treated with an antibacterial finish polygiene VO-600 cotton/antistatic polyester fabrics of two knit patterns, such as 1 × 1 rib and half-Milano rib, giving a very similar appearance for the fabric surface and having four polyester percentages (10%, 20%, 30%, and 35%) were investigated. Surface and the volume resistivity were measured according to EN 1149, and the effectiveness of electromagnetic shielding was determined according to ASTM D4935-18. The effect of individual factors (fiber composition, knit pattern, technical side, and treatment) and their complexity on the electrical properties of fabrics was evaluated by applying analysis of variance. The research revealed that the fiber composition of fabrics as an individual factor has the greatest influence on electrical properties. Electrical resistance decreased with the increasing percentage of polyester. Half-Milano rib fabrics were significantly more resistant than 1 × 1 rib fabrics. Raw fabrics were less electrically resistant than dyed and softened fabrics, and treated with antibacterial finish fabrics. Antibacterial finished fabrics were more electrically resistant than dyed and softened fabrics. The analysis of variance revealed that the complexity of investigated factors, such as fiber composition, knit pattern, and treatment, has a significant impact on fabric resistivity for both technical sides. Therefore, when selecting knitted fabrics with a very similar appearance for final applications in daily clothing, not only the impact of individual factors on their performance must be evaluated. The shielding effectiveness of the fabrics was too low to protect against electromagnetic waves.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-24T07:09:35Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231158820
Realistic fabric rendering with yarn models
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  Authors: Haisang Liu, Yordan Kyosev, Gaoming Jiang, Zhijia Dong
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Modeling fabrics with yarn models makes the fabric structure more realistic in detail. In this paper, a fiber-level rendering method is proposed to simulate different yarns and fabrics. The fibers are divided into three categories: the ply, the loop hairiness and the short hairiness. Geometric tubes are modeled to match these fibers according to the input yarn parameters. Different fibers can be selected depending on the yarn type, which is flexible to reduce the computation amount. Texture mapping is applied to simulate the yarn surface, reducing the memory and time cost of rendering large numbers of fibers. Several single yarns and fabric with different structures are simulated, demonstrating that this is an effective method for fabric modeling and rendering.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-24T07:05:20Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231154534
A method for approximating weave diagrams under heald frame constraint
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  Authors: Tetsuya Yoshida
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Woven fabric is produced by interlacing the warp yarn and the weft yarn, and their relationship on woven fabric is represented as a weave diagram. In order to produce woven fabric with looms, the necessary number of heald frames can be calculated based on the weave diagram for the woven fabric. However, when the number of available heald frames is limited, it is difficult to produce complex woven fabric. To alleviate this problem, this article proposes a method for approximating weave diagrams under heald frame constraint in terms of the alternating optimization in machine learning. By defining the objective function based on the matrix representation of weave diagram, an alternating optimization method is proposed to generate an approximate weave diagram under the specified number of heald frames. The proposed method is implemented with R language, and evaluated in terms of the performance of the proposed algorithm and woven fabric. Experimental results indicate that the proposed method is effective in generating approximate weave diagrams so that they can be fabricated using looms with a limited number of heald frames.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-24T07:02:00Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221149684
Viscoelastic tensile model of core/wrapped composite yarn with double
filament
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  Authors: Ruihua Yang, Aiting Hu, Xin Zhang, Shuai Liu, Jiaqi Gao, Zelin Lv, Hua Zhang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Viscoelastic models are typically employed to investigate the mechanical properties of yarn. In this study, a viscoelastic model was developed to predict the tensile stress–strain relationship of a core/wrapped composite yarn with double filaments. The tensile properties of the yarn were tested, and various stages of the tensile curve were analyzed. Moreover, based on the tensile fracture characteristics, a five-element nonlinear viscoelastic model comprising Kelvin element, Maxwell element, and linear springs was established. Furthermore, the tensile properties of the composite yarns were simulated and calculated using the developed model. Additionally, the stress–strain relationship was fitted using a polynomial on the basis of the established model. The results reveal that the tensile fracture curve of the composite yarn comprises three stages. They are a small strain linear stage, a large strain stage, and a strength fluctuation stage. The viscoelastic tensile model can decently explain the three-stage stress–strain characteristics of the composite yarn tensile curve. The theoretical results were consistent with the experimental results, and the correlation coefficient was greater than 0.999. Based on the results, the proposed model can be employed with high accuracy to predict the tensile properties of a core/wrapped composite yarn with a double filament.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-24T06:56:52Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221148460
Fabric defect detection based on low-rank decomposition with factor
group-sparse regularizer
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  Authors: Qinbao Cao, Yanfeng Han, Ke Xiao
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Recently, many low-rank-based methods in terms of detecting defects in fabric images have been proposed. However, there are two disadvantages of these methods. First, current low-rank based methods use the nuclear norm as the surrogate of rank, which causes inefficient optimization process and sub-optimal performance. Second, low-rank defective regions cannot be detected by low-rank based models. Thus, we propose a factor group-sparse regularized low-rank decomposition model (FGSRLRD) to solve these problems. This method takes the factor group-sparse regularizer as the surrogate of rank, which is more efficient as singular value decomposition (SVD) is not applied in the optimization process. Better performance is achieved as the factor group-sparse regularizer is a more accurate approximation of the rank. In addition, the weight matrix generated by the lightweight autoencoder is incorporated into the object function of FGSRLRD to guide locating defective regions. Besides, as low-rank defective regions cannot be segmented by low-rank models, this method constructs a fusion image of the prior image and the sparse image to highlight the defective regions. The performance of the proposed method is evaluated on two standard datasets, and the results indicate that the suggested method outperforms the existing state-of-the-art methods in locating the defective regions on fabric images.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-23T07:01:25Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221148516
Active tension control of the conical winding system based on the neural
network control algorithm of radial-basis functions
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  Authors: Hua Zhang, Jiangtao Wang, Jie Wu, Huoding Bian, Yikun Wei
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  A conical winding formation and tension control system was proposed in the doubling operation based on the yarn guide mode of a single spindle in this study. Conical winding formation realized the radial unwinding of wound package. An overfeed mechanism was introduced to achieve closed-loop control of yarn tension. The overfeed wheel was driven by a brushless Direct Current motor. The tension control system combined a Proportion Integration Differentiation controller with a radial-basis-function neural network, whose purpose was to meet the control requirements of the brushless DC motor. This system consisted of three main steps: Firstly, the radial-basis-function neural network was used to identify the system online. Secondly, the gradient descent method was used to adjust the node weight, center vector, and baseband width. Finally, incremental PID parameters online were adjusted according to the identified Jacobian information. A mathematical model of a control system was established in Matrix Laboratory. An experimental platform was designed for doubling winder to compare the control effects of Radial-basis-function-PID with traditional PID. The simulation results showed that the RBF-PID had a smaller overshoot of yarn tension, shorter adjustment time, and smaller steady-state error compared with the traditional PID controller in doubling operation by simulating the mathematical model. Experimental results showed the RBF-PID controller had good performance and stability and could be applied to yarns with different average linear velocity, yarn counts and strands . The yarn tension fluctuation will not exceed ±3% of the target value when the experimental materials and the cone angles are unchanged.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-22T12:02:21Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231157105
QA-USTNet: Yarn-dyed fabric defect detection via U-shaped Swin Transformer
Network based on Quadtree Attention
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  Authors: Hongwei Zhang, Wenbo Xiong, Shuai Lu, Mengdan Chen, Le Yao
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The detection and location of yarn-dyed fabric defects is a crucial and challenging problem in actual production scenarios. Recently, unsupervised fabric defect detection methods based on convolutional neural networks have attracted more attention. However, the convolutional neural networks often neglect to model the global receptive field of images, which further influence the defect detection ability of the model. In this article, we propose a U-shaped Swin Transformer network based on Quadtree attention framework for unsupervised yarn-dyed fabric defect detection. The method via U-shaped network based on Swin Transformer, the Swin Transformer adopts local attention to effectively learn features, and the U-shaped network realizes pixel-level reconstruction of images. The Quadtree attention is used to effectively capture the global features of the image, and model the global receptive field, and then better reconstruct the yarn-dyed fabric image. The improved Euclidean residual enhances the detection ability of unobvious defects, and obtains the final defect detection results. The proposed method effectively avoids the difficulty of collecting a large number of defective samples and manual labeling. Our method obtains 51.34% F1 and 38.30% intersection over union on the YDFID-1 dataset. Experimental results show that the proposed method can achieve higher accuracy of fabric defect detection and location compared with other methods.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-22T11:59:21Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231158134
Braiding procedure and axial compressive behaviors of three-dimensional
integrated braided composite three-way circular tubes
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  Authors: Xinyu Gao, Qihang Wang, Baozhong Sun, Bohong Gu, Meiqi Hu
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The three-dimensional braided composite multi-way tube is one kind of high strength joint with a unique seamless braided microstructure. Here we report a new method to prepare the three-way integrated braided preform. Quasi-static axial compressive damages and strengths of the three-way braided composite tubes were tested for revealing the effects of braided structure on the compressive behaviors. We have paid more attention to braiding yarn strain distribution at the connection region and have found the braided yarns are in a uniform braided structure in this region. Compressive strength and initial stiffness can be improved by reducing branch length or increasing braiding layers. The surface strain on the branch tube shows obvious periodicity related to the braided structure while that on the connection region is affected by the bulging movement due to the compression of the three branch tubes. The main damage mechanisms are yarn breakage, yarn debonding, and kink band. This uniform braided structure paves the way to form the seamless braided structure among three branch tubes with high compressive strength.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-22T11:56:01Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231158114
A novel air-assisted rotor spinning technique for ultra-stable
antibacterial nanofiber/cotton hybrid yarn
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  Authors: Yinghui Li, Liming Wang, Dongxiao Ji, Xiaohong Qin, Jianyong Yu
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Antibacterial textiles have attracted much attention in recent years. The stability of the antibacterial effect is one of the most important properties of antibacterial textiles. Integrating antibacterial nanofibers into cotton yarn is a green and efficient method to produce antibacterial textiles. However, due to the loose yarn structure of traditional rotor spinning, the functional nanofibers are easily detached from the blended yarns, resulting in reduced antibacterial effect. Herein, we modified the rotor spinning unit by adding an extra air supply channel for tighter yarn structure. The airflow field of the modified rotor spinning unit was simulated using computational fluid dynamics to determine the best setting angle of the extra air supply channel. Then, the antibacterial blended yarn was produced by trans-scale electrospinning and followed by air-assisted rotor spinning. At the same yarn density, the mean diameter of modified rotor spinning hybrid yarn was smaller than that of conventional rotor spinning hybrid yarn, demonstrating that the structure of modified rotor spinning hybrid yarn was tighter. The overall qualities of modified rotor spinning hybrid yarn were much better than those of conventional rotor spinning hybrid yarn. The fluorescent tracer technique was carried out to show that more nanofibers can be preserved in modified rotor spinning hybrid yarn than in conventional rotor spinning hybrid yarn, especially after 10 washing cycles. The antibacterial properties of modified rotor spinning hybrid yarn-based fabric against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus can reach as high as 80.5% and 82% even after 50 times of washing, indicating the high antibacterial durability. Our new technology provides a method to prepare super stable antibacterial functional yarn, and is expected to be used to prepare other durable functional textiles.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-22T11:53:00Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231152189
Attention-Gate-based U-shaped Reconstruction Network (AGUR-Net) for
color-patterned fabric defect detection
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  Authors: Hongwei Zhang, Shihao Wang, Shuai Lu, Le Yao, Yibo Hu
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Color-patterned fabrics possess changeable patterns, low probability of defective samples, and various forms of defects. Therefore, the unsupervised inspection of color-patterned fabrics has gradually become a research hotspot in the field of fabric defect detection. However, due to the redundant information of skip connections in the network and the limitation of post-processing, the current reconstruction-based unsupervised fabric defect detection methods have difficulty in detecting some defects of color-patterned fabrics. In this article, we propose an Attention-Gate-based U-shaped Reconstruction Network (AGUR-Net) and a dual-threshold segmentation post-processing method. AGUR-Net consists of an encoder, an Atrous Spatial Pyramid Pooling module and an attention gate weighted fusion residual decoder. The encoder is used to obtain more representative features of the input image via EfficientNet-B2. The Atrous Spatial Pyramid Pooling module is used to enlarge the receptive field of the network and introduce multi-scale information into the decoder. The attention-gate-weighted residual fusion decoder is used to fuse the features of the encoder with the features of the decoder to obtain the reconstructed image. The dual-threshold segmentation post-processing is used to obtain the final defect detection results. Our method achieves a precision of 59.38%, a recall of 59.1%, an F1 of 54.31%, and an intersection-over-union ratio of 41.18% on the public dataset YDFID-1. The experimental results show that the proposed method can better detect and locate the defects of color-patterned fabrics compared with several other state-of-the-art unsupervised fabric defect detection methods.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-22T11:44:41Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221149450
A non-destructive, environment-friendly method for separating and
recycling polyamide 6 from waste and scrap polyamide 6 blended textiles
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  Authors: Xu Qianhui, Hu Hongmei, Zhu Ruishu, Sun Lina, Yu Jianyong, Wang Xueli
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Recycling their trash has garnered significant scientific interest as the use of waste and scrap (Was) polyamide 6 (PA6) blended textiles rises. Based on the complexation and decomplexation of PA6 with Ca2+, an investigation was conducted into the possibility of selectively and nondestructively dissolving and recovering PA6 and separating another component from Was PA6 blended models using CaCl2/ethanol/water (CEW) solvents. It was found through experiments that the dissolution of PA6 in CEW was related to temperature and stirring speed; the optimum conditions were chosen to be 75°C, 2 h, and 300 r/min, under which 94.80 wt% of Was PA6 textiles could be dissolved. Results also revealed that PA6 could be reprecipitated by simply adding water, whereas Ca2+ could be significantly removed by washing. The PA6 may be separated without degradation by controlled complexation and decomplexation, and the performance of Recycled PA6 (RPA6) was nearly identical to Was PA6 textiles. In addition, the two-component blended models experience non-destructive separation and recovery, and CEW treatment has little impact on the other components (except PA6). In this study, it is demonstrated that different types of Was PA6 blended textiles could be successfully separated via CEW treatment. Furthermore, the solvent system comprises easily accessible, low-cost materials that are widely used in industrial-scale processes. Thus, the concept will make a significant contribution to a green textile recycling strategy.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-22T11:34:08Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221148260
Effect of quercetin on the structure and oxidation resistance of
polyphenylene sulfide fiber prepared by melt spinning
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  Authors: Lian Dandan, Lu Jianjun, Yin Lixin, Ge Chao, Wang Baojun
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Polyphenylene sulfide fiber is easily oxidized at high temperature, thus vastly reducing its application range. In this study, polyphenylene sulfide/quercetin fibers were prepared via melt spinning. The effect of quercetin on the spinnability of the composite fibers was explored, and their cross-sectional morphology, crystalline properties, orientation, tensile properties, thermal stability and oxidation stability were investigated. At the quercetin content of 1.5 wt.%, particle agglomerates and some gasification, causing fluctuations in melt pressure, fiber breakage and poor spinnability, were observed in the polyphenylene sulfide matrix. The addition of quercetin can increase the crystallization temperature of polyphenylene sulfide, shorten its crystallization time, refine the crystalline particles therein, and improve the degree of fiber orientation. At the quercetin content of 1.0 wt.%, the tensile strength and elongation at break of composite fibers increased by 30.8% and 7.6%, respectively, as compared to those of pure polyphenylene sulfide fibers. Moreover, the decomposition temperature and the oxidation induction temperature at a 5% weight loss were 16.3°C and 13.4°C higher than those of the unmodified PPS fibers. The loss of strength of composite fibers subjected to oxidation for 240 h was only 18.4%. The X-ray diffraction results showed that the phenolic hydroxyl groups in the quercetin structure were able to capture free radicals generated during the oxidation of polyphenylene sulfide fibers, as well as inhibit the oxidative degradation reaction and improve the oxidative stability of the fiber. The oxidation resistance mechanism of composite fibers was also proposed.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-20T07:45:43Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231158111
Simple post-treatment of cotton fabric for efficient personal moisture
management
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  Authors: Maorong Zheng, Jiatai Gu, Hongxia Zhang, Xinyang He, Mantang He, Liming Wang, Xiaohong Qin
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Wet comfort is an important indicator for evaluating human wearing comfort, and personal moisture management fabrics can quickly transfer sweat from the skin surface to meet the human body's requirements for wet comfort. Although cotton fabrics have an excellent water absorption capacity, the inability of moisture to transfer quickly causes the fabrics to cling to the skin and causes discomfort. Here we demonstrate personal moisture management cotton fabric by two-step grafting treatments, which are relatively simple and usually do not fall off as easily as a simple coating process. Moreover, unlike traditional double-layer or sandwich structures that absorb water and grow heavy, the fabric's quick-drying qualities are accomplished by expanding the area of water evaporation. According to the results of liquid moisture management and water evaporation rate tests, this fabric's moisture diffusion radius is 5 mm larger than that of pure cotton fabrics, and its evaporation rate can reach 0.2082 g/(m2 · d). In addition, it is also suitable for high-volume apparel fabrics. This work paves the way for personal moisture management cotton fabric.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-20T07:41:42Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231156453
Simulation of the dynamics of a flexible fiber in the swirling airflow in
a nozzle containing cylindrical and divergent conical sections
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  Authors: Zeguang Pei, Chuanzhi Xi
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Swirling airflow plays a key role in textile production processes. The structure and properties of a textile processed by utilizing swirling airflow depend to a large extent on the dynamics of the fibers in the flow. This work presents a numerical investigation of the dynamics of a flexible fiber in the tangentially injected swirling airflow in a nozzle containing cylindrical and divergent conical sections, which is frequently encountered during textile production. Simulation of the three-dimensional, transient, compressible and turbulent swirling airflow field in the nozzle is first conducted. A model for the particle-level simulation of a flexible fiber in a wall-bounded flow is consequently adopted for studying the fiber motion in the nozzle. This model assumes the fiber to be composed of several massless elastic rods connected by rigid ball–socket joints where various forces and torques are exerted. The stretching, bending and twisting deformations of the fiber as well as the fiber–wall collision can all be modeled. The motional characteristics of the flexible fiber can be obtained by solving the translational and rotational equations for all the ball–socket joints in the fiber model. Based on the model, the effects of two process and nozzle geometric parameters – the nozzle pressure and radial position of the injectors – on the fiber motion are studied. The results show that the model and methods presented in this work can provide effective and useful insights into the dynamics of flexible fiber in the swirling airflow field inside complex-structured nozzles employed in the textile production processes.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-20T07:39:42Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231155831
Exploring the effectiveness of fashion recommendations made by social
media influencers in the centennial generation
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  Authors: L. Javier Cabeza-Ramírez, Sandra M. Sánchez-Cañizares, Luna M. Santos-Roldán, Fernando J. Fuentes-García
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Previous literature has highlighted the social media influencer’s (SMI’s) credibility as a crucial factor in explaining the persuasive power of recommendations. To date, however, there have been very few studies that have shed light on the role of the audience’s product involvement in mitigating risk and enhancing the authenticity of SMIs’ messages. The present analysis sought to fill this gap, checking whether the relationship between involvement (fashion consciousness), perceived risk, and perceived message authenticity among SMIs’ had an impact on the audience’s attitude and purchase intention. To do so, we present a new exploratory model using an extension of the theory of planned behavior, and we focus on fashion recommendations aimed at the centennial generation. The empirical analysis was carried out on a sample of 690 SMI followers, using partial least squares–structural equation modeling. The results confirmed that high levels of involvement with fashion products improved the perceived authenticity of the recommendations, increased the influence of the social group of belonging, and intensified the power of the recommendations. This paper contributes to the literature by studying a set of variables that have proved relevant to the analysis of influencer marketing. Moreover, as a novelty, the research provides knowledge on the presence of perceived risk and the influence of product involvement on younger consumers. Our results could help managers, marketers, and influencers in the fashion and textile industry. By identifying product involvement as a key construct, we confirmed that the different operators must work on product promotions that appeal to fashion values.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-16T09:59:49Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231155860
Yarn modeling and winding process simulation based on 3D beam elements
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  Authors: Yingdong Shi, Yong Li, Xiaochuan Chen, Jun Wang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  In order to study the tension variation of cotton yarn in the winding process, a finite element model of yarn based on three-dimensional beam elements is proposed. As the size of yarn in the length direction is much larger than the cross-sectional size, this paper assumes that the yarn cross-section is circular and ignores the change of the cross-sectional area in the winding process. The winding process of yarn is simulated using Abaqus dynamic explicit, and the influence of the yarn fineness on the yarn tension during winding is analyzed. The results show that the average relative error between the simulation results and the experimental data is 14.09%, and the maximum relative error is 17.06%; therefore the model is reasonable. Compared with the solid element model of yarn, the yarn simulated by this model can save a lot of computing resources while taking into account the yarn stacking effect. The winding length that can be simulated in the same time is tens of times that of the solid element model, thus the winding simulation of nine-layer yarn on the bobbin is realized. The conclusion is that the inner yarn loop presents weak tension while the outer yarn loop has large tension.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-16T09:54:49Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231155834
Effective light management, stretchable and transparent nanofiber
electrode via the incorporation of phosphors into composite nanofibers for
wearable perovskite solar cells
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  Authors: Yimin Cao, Wenjie Zhang, Fanglin Shi, Tianying Chen, Pingfan Du, Lixin Song, Jie Xiong
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The flexible transparent electrode is a crucial component of wearable photoelectric devices, and has a significant influence on the performance and development of wearable devices. Here, a phosphor/polyimide/polyurethane@silver composite nanofiber (NF) web electrode was fabricated by electrospinning and magnetron sputtering for wearable photoelectric devices. The electrode demonstrated a promising light management ability with converting ultraviolet light to visible light, high conductivity with sheet resistance of 22.1 Ω/square, and high transparency with transmittance of over 80%. Besides, the electrode possessed an excellent stretched capacity with tensile strain of over 100%, and tensile stability with the resistance increased by ∼75% after 500 stretching cycles at the tensile stain of 50%. As a result, a flexible perovskite solar cell (PSC) was assembled by using the NF web electrode, and possessed the power conversion efficiency of 3.47%, which is higher than that of PSCs based on electrodes without phosphor. Furthermore, the flexible PSCs exhibited promising mechanical stability under bending, and could serve as wearable devices. This work provides a feasible and promising method to prepare lightweight, stretchable, light management, and transparent electrodes for photoelectric devices, and may facilitate the development of wearable photoelectric devices.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-16T09:50:22Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231154539
Morphology and properties of filter paper prepared by highly fibrillated
poly(p-phenylene benzobisoxazole) fiber
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  Authors: Aixin Zhong, Tianle You, Yi Wang, Ziqi Huang, Yun Liang, Jin Long, Min Tang, Jian Hu
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Poly(p-phenylene benzobisoxazole) fiber is a kind of rigid-rod polymer fiber and has a fibrillar structure. It can be fibrillated through a refining process. In this study, the highly fibrillated poly(p-phenylene benzobisoxazole) fiber, which consists of poly(p-phenylene benzobisoxazole) fibrils, was prepared by refining and fractionalizing. It was found that the poly(p-phenylene benzobisoxazole) fibril has a specific surface area of 41.5 m2/g, and the diameter can be tens of nanometers. Poly(p-phenylene benzobisoxazole) fibrils can be prepared into the paper by a wet-laid formation process. It was found that the average pore size of poly(p-phenylene benzobisoxazole) paper was 0.64 μm. The filtration efficiency of poly(p-phenylene benzobisoxazole) paper was 99.96% for particles with a size of 150 nm. After being heated at 400°C for 5 min, the poly(p-phenylene benzobisoxazole) paper could still retain a complete structure and have a filtration efficiency of 99.58%. It is suggested that poly(p-phenylene benzobisoxazole) paper has a potential application in high-efficiency particulate air filters used in air and gas treatment systems in some industrial facilities to resist heated air with a temperature of 400°C.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-16T09:47:08Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221149215
The coupling effects of seawater aging and fatigue micro-crack on
mechanical degradation of carbon fiber/epoxy plain woven composites
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  Authors: Guang Zhu, Tao Liu, Shujuan Wang, Yan Sun, Xingzhong Gao, Shixiong Li, Yuan Bai, Rui Zhou, Guosheng Li, Wei Fan
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Carbon fiber reinforced plastics applied in the marine industry are often exposed to conditions of seawater and alternating loads for extended periods, which can cause the complex degradation process of the composites. In this work, the coupling effects of micro-cracks and the seawater aging on the carbon fiber/epoxy resin-based plain woven composites were experimentally investigated. The micro-cracks were introduced into the composites through the three-point bending fatigue load. The results indicate that the residual stress generated by different expansions between carbon fiber and epoxy resin that reduces the interfacial properties of the composite is the primary reason for seawater aging. Besides, seawater aging causes the bending strength of the specimens with fatigue damage to decrease more seriously than that of the undamaged specimens. This is because micro-cracks increase the specific surface area of the composites in contact with seawater to provide channels for seawater diffusion. The coupling effects suggest the maintenance cycle of the composite parts should be gradually reduced if micro-cracks occur in some composites.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-10T07:29:03Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231154828
Enhancement of properties of walnut shell/attapulgite/polyvinyl chloride
composites with ultrasonic and hydrothermal treatment
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  Authors: Dongsheng Chen, Keping Zhang, Junqian Yang, Xi Zhang, Yanan Zhang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The effects of ultrasonic and hydrothermal treatment on the physical, mechanical, wear resistance, water absorption and thermal stability of the walnut shell (WS)/attapulgite (ATP)/polyvinyl chloride (PVC) composite and its enhancement mechanism were investigated. WS was treated by ultrasound and hydrothermal treatment and mixed with PVC and ATP, and the WS/ATP/PVC composites were prepared by melt extrusion. The properties of composites were characterized, and the results showed that after ultrasonic and hydrothermal treatment, the main chemical structure of composites was not changed significantly. Compared with untreated composites, the wear resistance after ultrasonic treatment for 10 min is the best. After ultrasonic treatment for 15 min, the bending strength, tensile strength and impact strength of the composite are increased by 8.9%, 10.3% and 46.2%, respectively. Hydrothermal treatment at appropriate temperatures also improved some properties of the composites. The composites after hydrothermal treatment at 110°C had the best thermal stability and highest hardness, and the bending strength and tensile strength values were increased by 5.9% and 5.2%, respectively. The impact strength of the composite increased with the increase of hydrothermal treatment temperature. The results showed that ultrasonic and hydrothermal treatments have the potential to improve the performance of wood–plastic composites as environmentally friendly pretreatment methods.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-09T10:57:28Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231156662
Study on the influence of drafting forms in front drafting zone of ring
spinning frame on fiber motion and yarn quality
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  Authors: Yuanying Shen, Chongwen Yu, Shanshan Shang, Lili Qian, Xixi Qian
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Double apron drafting is the general drafting form in the front zone of the ring spinning frame. In the double apron drafting system, the top apron and the bottom apron form an elastic tensor gauge, which can better control the movement of floating fibers and improve yarn quality. In order to investigate quantitatively the influence of the top apron and bottom apron on fiber movement and yarn quality in the double apron drafting system, the differences of fiber acceleration point distribution, yarn irregularity and yarn strength spun by double apron drafting, single apron drafting and simple roller drafting under different process conditions were compared. Compared with simple roller drafting, double apron drafting and single apron drafting can effectively control the fiber movement in the drafting zone. With the increase of fiber length, the difference between the distribution of fiber acceleration points obtained by double apron drafting and that obtained by single apron drafting gradually decreases. When the fiber length is greater than 32 mm, the difference is small. Besides, by analyzing the improvement rate of the top apron and bottom apron on yarn irregularity and yarn strength under different drafting settings, it was found that the overall improvement rate of the bottom apron on the yarn quality was higher than that of the top apron, especially for manmade fiber yarns. Even in some cases, the strength of viscose yarn spun by the single apron drafting process is higher than that of the double apron drafting process.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-09T10:19:07Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231154535
Numerical simulation and experimental research of fiber motion in vortex
spinning
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  Authors: Shanshan Shang, Yuankun Liu, Zikai Yu, Binjie Xin, Yuansheng Zheng, Limin Ao, Guangwu Sun, Chongwen Yu, R Hugh Gong
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The application of high speed air flow in the textile field represents the frontier development direction in this field. However, the coupling mechanism between air flow and fiber is extremely complicated which greatly limits the development and application of new textile technologies. For this reason, this research study is intended to focus on the common cutting-edge basic scientific problem of the air-flow-fiber coupling mechanism, the vortex spinning technology is taken as a breakthrough point for research. Three-dimensional numerical models of air flow in vortex spinning nozzle and a free-end fiber were established. The hybrid grids including the structured hexahedral grids and the unstructured tetrahedral grids were used to divide the air-flow computational region, the realizable κ-ε model was used to solve the turbulent characteristics of air flow, and the wall function method was used to solve the air flow in the near wall region. The displacement and deformation of a single free-end fiber under the action of the air-flow force was solved by the second-order nonlinear double asymptotic method and interpolation method. The dynamic twist process of a free-end fiber was simulated in three-dimensional space by taking into account the fiber characteristics, such as straightening, bending, and torsion. In addition, a high magnification microscope was used to observe the free-end fiber motion during the spinning process. The results show that the numerical simulation is consistent with the experimental observation, proving that dynamic numerical simulation can solve difficult problems in the unobserved dynamic twisting process, and this deepens the understanding of the spinning mechanism in vortex spinning.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-05T07:22:19Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221150650
Emerging passive thermoregulatory textiles through tailoring different
heat transfer routes
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  Authors: Meng Chen, Yuanjun Liu, Xiaoming Zhao
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Personal thermal management systems play significant roles in improving personal thermal comfort and decreasing energy consumption resulting from traditional thermoregulation methods such as air conditioning. Thermoregulatory textiles passively regulating human body heat transfer routes through their engineered properties are an effective and promising way to offer personal thermophysiological comfort without extra energy consumption. In this paper, we reviewed recent progress on passive thermoregulatory textiles and classified them into four categories: radiative thermoregulatory textiles, conductive thermoregulatory textiles, single phase convective thermoregulatory textiles, and phase transition convective cooling textiles. By comparing and summarizing their thermoregulatory paths and performance, we found that radiative thermoregulatory textiles are the most promising because of their wide temperature regulation paths, superior thermoregulatory performance, and bidirectional temperature regulation. Furthermore, we provided critical considerations on the various characterization and calculation methods for thermoregulatory performance used in these research works, and pointed out future perspectives in such a burgeoning field.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-03T10:19:25Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231154018
Color discrimination threshold of human vision for textiles under
different illumination conditions
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  Authors: Youngjoo Chae, Sungwoo Moon
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  In this work, the varying color discrimination thresholds of human vision for textiles with a wide range of physical color attributes under different illumination conditions were examined. It was found that, regardless of the illumination condition and the color attributes of the textiles, people cannot generally perceive the color differences of textiles smaller than 4.25 ΔE*ab. Meanwhile, the color discrimination threshold was found to be significantly affected by the illuminance of illuminants and all the physical color attributes of lightness, chroma, and hue of the textiles observed. People were generally better able to distinguish color differences in bright environments with the illuminance of 2000 lux than in darker ones with 100 lux. In addition, color differences between dark and less-saturated textiles were found to be generally easier to be perceived than those between light and saturated textiles under various illuminants. In addition, regardless of the illuminant, color differences between neutral colored textiles were easier to be perceived than those between chromatic colored textiles with the mean color discrimination threshold of 2.85 and 4.42 ΔE*ab, respectively. In particular, among chromatic colored textiles, color differences between yellow textiles were generally the hardest to be perceived with the mean threshold of 5.58 ΔE*ab.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-03T10:17:00Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221148257
Smart optical fiber fabric based on side-emitting and side-coupling for
pulse and blood oxygen measurement
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  Authors: Meiling Zhang, Huiying Su, Cheng Zhang, Zheng Sun, Zhen Jiang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Monitoring pulse and arterial oxygen saturation (SpO2) continuously and in real-time is conducive to the prevention and monitoring of cardiovascular disease. The reported optical fiber fabrics have the shortcomings of low side-emitting and side-coupling efficiency of a single fiber, and more optical fibers were used. In this paper, we propose a micro-bending bulge structure based on side-emitting and side-coupling of the polymer optical fiber (POF), and a small number of the POFs are woven into the fabric as weft yarns to measure pulse and SpO2 using a simple plain weave. The experiments investigated the effect of the different micro-bending bulge structures on the side-emitting and side-coupling efficiencies by means of the ray tracing method, explored the feasibility to measure pulse waves and SpO2 on the fingertip, brachial artery, and forehead ophryon, and evaluated the accuracy of the measurements in the static, dynamic, and sweating states. The results show that the side-emitting and side-coupling efficiencies of the POF are optimal by adopting a 1 mm micro-bending bulge height and a 3 mm micro-bending bulge width. The fabric sensor with three side-emitting POFs and two side-coupling POFs is capable of monitoring pulse and SpO2 on the forehead. In addition, the maximum error is 1 bpm for the pulse and within 2% for SpO2 on the forehead.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-01T08:18:06Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231153224
Low infrared emissivity composite materials for multi-band camouflage
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  Authors: Ying Su, Xiaoming Zhao, Zhe Feng
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Infrared camouflage textile materials have the advantages of softness, portability, and wearability. They are the main raw materials of infrared camouflage clothing, backpacks, camouflage nets, and tents. In this paper, from the perspective of reducing infrared emissivity to achieve the purpose of camouflage, metal materials were selected as functional particles and combined with textile materials to prepare polyurethane infrared camouflage composite materials with low emissivity, whose lowest emissivity in the wavelength range of 2–22 μm can reach 0.58. On this basis, two kinds of low infrared emissivity composite materials that can be used for multi-band camouflage were developed. One is to add modified graphene into the coating to improve the conductivity of the coating and reduce the gloss of the coating, to prepare visible and infrared camouflage coated fabric. When the amount of graphene is 10% of the filler content, the coated fabric has low gloss and low emissivity at the same time. Compared with the fabric without graphene coating, the glossiness is reduced by 31%, while the infrared emissivity is only increased by 0.1. The second is to prepare composite materials with infrared camouflage and microwave absorption functions by compounding low infrared emissivity and microwave absorbing coating. The minimum infrared emissivity of the two composites was 0.76 and 0.58, respectively. In this study, a variety of materials was used to prepare low infrared emissivity fabrics with low glossiness or good microwave absorption capacity, which provided a reference for the preparation of multi-band camouflage fabrics and was expected to be applied in the field of military camouflage.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-01T08:17:27Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231153181
Initial insights of laundry detergent and additive impact on e-textile
surface resistivity
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  Authors: Rachel J Eike, Ava Depping, Allyson Cliett, Dawn Michaelson, Yang Li
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Smart clothing represents less than 1% of the multibillion dollar wearables market. This lagging representation is due to many factors; one predominant challenge which includes performance reliability post-laundering/care. Due to smart clothing intimately contacting the human body, it naturally becomes soiled and requires laundering. However, insight into the impact of consumer detergents and other additives on e-textile conductive functionality post laundering has yet to be explored. The purpose of this research was to study laundering conditions, specifically the influence of select laundry detergents and additives, on surface resistivity of select e-textiles to provide initial insights into the impact of consumer-available laundering treatments to contribute to knowledge around laundering of e-textiles. Understanding initial impacts of laundering conditions, particularly detergents and other common laundry additives can inform future studies, laundering text methods of e-textiles, and care label development.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-01T08:13:39Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231152876
Seawater aging effect on fiber-reinforced polymer composites: Mechanical
properties, aging mechanism, and life prediction
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  Authors: Jingjing Nan, Chao Zhi, Jiaguang Meng, Menghe Miao, Lingjie Yu
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Fiber-reinforced polymer (FRP) composites are widely used in marine engineering fields, such as coastal construction, offshore bridges, submarines, and warships, owing to their light weight, high strength, and corrosion resistance. However, owing to the harsh marine environment, FRP composites used in the ocean are inevitably affected by seawater aging. Therefore, it is necessary to investigate the seawater aging properties of FRP composites. In this study, the seawater aging mechanism of FRP composites is summarized, and the influence factors (matrix type, fiber type, immersion temperature, loading mode, and aging method) of seawater aging on the mechanical properties of FRP composites are further reviewed in detail. Based on this, the method for improving the seawater resistance of FRP composites is summarized. In addition, the research schemes of accelerated aging of FRP composites and commonly used life prediction models are summarized, and the methods and suggestions for improving the accuracy of life prediction are further discussed.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-01T08:10:48Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231152666
Modeling of yarn strength and its influencing factors in the pneumatic
splicing process
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  Authors: Xia Ji, Shunguo Wang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Yarn splicing strength is one of the most important indexes to evaluate yarn twist quality, and it determines final performance of the yarn. This paper establishes a prediction model of yarn splicing strength. The strength prediction model was used to predict the mechanical properties of yarn composed of different fibers during splicing. The effects of fiber properties, splicing and tensile strain on the splicing strength of yarn were described by using the characteristic parameters of the fiber and yarn. Finally, the interaction between parameters is analyzed by charts, and the optimal solution is obtained. The results show that the yarn splicing strength prediction model established by the mechanical analysis and geometric structure can reflect the mechanical state of the yarn in the pneumatic splicing chamber, and can be used to calculate the yarn splicing strength. Yarns with higher tensile modulus will obtain higher splicing strength under the action of lower twist and higher tensile stress. Therefore, the strength prediction model provides a theoretical basis for the study of the relationship among yarn strength and fiber properties, splicing, tensile strain and other parameters, and also provides guidance for the optimization of the modern spinning process. Furthermore, the influence of air pressure on the splicing strength is also discussed.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-02-01T08:07:26Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231152659
Bacterial cellulose grown from kombucha: Assessment of textile performance
properties using fashion apparel tests
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  Authors: Jane Wood, Joanna Verran, James Redfern
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Bacterial cellulose (BC) has been suggested as a sustainable alternative textile for apparel. Previous studies have evaluated the production of BC sheets and the suitability of these to form garment shapes. The laboratory measured physical performance characteristics of BC from an apparel perspective remain relatively unexplored.The aim of this study was to produce reproducible sheets of BC, enabling the evaluation of the performance of the BC in an apparel textile testing context, and comparison to other textile materials. Grown in sterile black tea with glucose, the BC presented as a mesh of non-woven nanofibers, and thus comparison was made with three non-woven fabrics. It has also been suggested that BC could be used as ‘vegetable’ leather; therefore, performance comparisons were conducted with animal skins.Utilizing British, European and International standard test methods, the selected fabrics were evaluated for their performance in tensile, elongation, moisture vapor permeability and abrasion tests, relevant for an apparel end-use.Tensile strength testing revealed that BC is weaker than its animal counterparts but does display similar physical characteristics at the point of failure; however, it displayed a higher tensile strength than the non-woven fabrics chosen for comparison.BC was the least breathable and most moisture-retentive of all the fabrics tested, raising questions regarding its suitability and comfort for apparel applications in its untreated state.However, BC displayed superior performance when tested for resistance to abrasion, suggesting it could be best utilized in the form of encapsulated patches in items subjected to this type of damage.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-31T05:24:49Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231152668
Mathematical model of multisegment balloons in ring spinning
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  Authors: Haiyan Yu, Junping Zhang, Shiqun He, Pei Feng, Chongchang Yang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  High-speed ring spinning is limited by issues such as yarn quality and yarn breakage, and the spinning tension significantly affects yarn breakage and winding speed. The shape of the balloon in ring spinning is closely related to the distribution of tension within the yarn. In this study, a force analysis of the balloon yarn was conducted focusing on the balloon section during ring spinning, and a mathematical model of the balloon was established. The model included factors such as the centrifugal force, Coriolis force, and the air resistance of the yarn. Suitable parameters were then selected to extract the balloon trajectory curve and compare it with simulations to validate the model. The model was used to analyze the effects of balloon speed, yarn linear density, balloon bottom radius, balloon height, and yarn tension at the top of the balloon on the yarn tension at the bottom of the balloon, and the overall shape of the balloon. The balloon model established in this study could also be used for the study of balloon yarn tension in other processes. The effects of the main parameters influencing the yarn tension of the multi-balloon can provide a theoretical reference for enhancing the design of high-speed ring spinning.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-27T08:13:13Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221148259
Geotextile performance of fabrics woven by polyethylene terephthalate
yarns prepared directly from drinking bottles
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  Authors: Nithinart C. Juntadech, Supasit Pongsivasathit, Bintasan Kwankhao
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  This research article describes the preparation and characterization of geotextile-reinforced embankment made from yarns produced from polyethylene terephthalate bottles by the bottle cutter and stretching yarn prototype. The yarns produced from plastic bottles were weaved to obtain fabrics with different pattern structures. Yarns and fabrics samples were characterized including yarn number, yarn tensile, fabric thread density, fabric weight, fabric thickness, fabric breaking strength, and fabric bursting strength. The performance of the fabric samples as a geotextile was evaluated by direct shear test, California bearing ratio, and water permeability. The results show that the fabric pattern structure plausibly was the main factor for geotextile performance. The fabric samples with low thread density could develop both interlocking and interbedding mechanisms resulting in higher shear stress and California bearing ratio. Lastly, PLAXIS 2D program simulation with finite element method was used to estimate the possibility of the use of fabric samples as geotextile-reinforced embankment. It was found that the predicted safety factor of soil erosion with fabric sample could reach the value of one which is higher than the safety factor of the soil erosion without fabric sample.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-27T08:09:32Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231151972
CACFNet: Fabric defect detection via context-aware attention cascaded
feedback network
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  Authors: Zhoufeng Liu, Bo Tian, Chunlei Li, Shumin Ding, Jiangtao Xi
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Fabric defect detection plays an irreplaceable role in the quality control of the textile manufacturing industry, but it is still a challenging task due to the diversity and complexity of defects and environmental factors. Visual saliency models imitating the human vision system can quickly determine the defect regions from the complex texture background. However, most visual saliency-based methods still suffer from incomplete predictions owing to the variability of fabric defects and low contrast with the background. In this paper, we develop a context-aware attention cascaded feedback network for fabric defect detection to achieve more accurate predictions, in which a parallel context extractor is designed to characterize the multi-scale contextual information. Moreover, a top-down attention cascaded feedback module was devised adaptively to select the important multi-scale complementary information and then transmit it to an adjacent shallower layer to compensate for the inconsistency of information among layers for accurate location. Finally, a multi-level loss function is applied to guide our model for generating more accurate prediction results via optimizing multiple side-output predictions. Experimental results on the two fabric datasets built under six widely used evaluation metrics demonstrate that our proposed framework outperforms state-of-the-art models remarkably.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-27T08:00:33Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231151439
Preparation of polyacrylamide-poly(methyl methacrylate) emulsion for
enhancing the adhesion of polyester/cotton yarn
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  Authors: Hua Bai, Hailiang Wu, Yanqin Shen, Yuxue Yang, Yijun Yao
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Polyacrylamide-poly(methyl methacrylate) copolymer emulsion was synthesized by prepolymerization of methyl methacrylate, and then copolymerization with acrylamide. The final yield of polyacrylamide-poly(methyl methacrylate) emulsion can be up to 93.69%, and its molecular weight was 11.2 × 104 Da, as well as the characteristic peaks of the ester group (–COO) of methyl methacrylate and amide group (–NH2) of acrylamide appeared on its structure. The component content of acrylamide and methyl methacrylate from polyacrylamide-poly(methyl methacrylate) can be effectively controlled by adjusting the prepolymerization conversion of methyl methacrylate. The polyacrylamide-poly(methyl methacrylate) emulsion exhibited spherical morphology, and its particle size was 50–130 nm. Moreover, the correlation between particle size and the film-forming property of the polyacrylamide-poly(methyl methacrylate) emulsion was studied. It was concluded that when the particle size was small, the aggregation ability among molecules was strong, and endowed polyacrylamide-poly(methyl methacrylate) emulsion film with more action during the stretching process, making it able to withstand the larger tensile opposite force. Interestingly, the polyacrylamide-poly(methyl methacrylate) emulsion can reinforce the adhesion of polyester/cotton yarn. These benefit from the strong hydrogen bond between polyacrylamide and cotton yarn and poly(methyl methacrylate) had a similar ester structure to polyester fibers. This work solves the problems of difficult copolymerization between acrylamide and acrylate, it provides a new way to develop acrylamide-based copolymer adhesive.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-27T07:56:33Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221150648
The influence of high molecular weight polyethylene and basalt content on
the mechanical risks of protective three-dimensional weft-knitted fabrics
designed to wear next to skin
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  Authors: Julija Krauledaitė, Kristina Ancutienė, Sigitas Krauledas, Virginijus Urbelis, Virginija Sacevičienė
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  This study examines the resistance of three-dimensional (3D) weft-knitted fabrics to mechanical risks to determine the influence of varying percentage contents of high molecular weight polyethylene and basalt on cut, puncture, abrasion, and tear resistance. The three-dimensional weft-knitted fabrics are designed by separating functional layers: the outer (protective) layer contains varying percentage contents of high molecular weight polyethylene and basalt; the inner layer (suitable for contact with the skin) contains polyester; both layers are connected using polyamide. The strength properties of knits in response to mechanical impact were evaluated by performing cut, puncture, abrasion, and tear resistance tests. Basalt was found to improve the cut resistance of knits significantly, even with its content as low as 5% in the outer layer. The knit with the highest high molecular weight polyethylene content in the outer layer demonstrated the best puncture and tear resistance. No correlation was established between the varying percentage contents of high molecular weight polyethylene and basalt and the maximum number of abrasion cycles, as the three-dimensional weft-knitted fabrics showed no noticeable wear. The test results show that the structure of three-dimensional weft-knitted fabric with the outer layer designed to withstand mechanical impact and the inner layer suitable for direct contact with the skin protects against a wide range of mechanical impacts. This applies even when varying percentage contents of high molecular weight polyethylene and basalt are used only in the outer layer.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-25T08:11:50Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175231151441
An improved procedure for calculating the pore size distribution of filter
cloths in capillary flow porometry
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  Authors: Marina Ängeslevä, Riina Salmimies, Antti Häkkinen
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Pore size distribution is one of the most important structural characteristics of filter cloths and can, in theory, be used to predict filtration performance. Capillary flow porometry is a common method to determine the pore diameter(s) and the pore size distribution of a porous material. Equipment applying this method has many advantages, but data processing and further calculations still require refining to be fit for purpose in calculations of flow capacity. The present study aims to develop a new procedure for processing volumetric flow rate data and corresponding pressure, which are measured by capillary flow porometry. The processed data are further used to calculate the pore size distribution of textile materials. Six industrial samples of polypropylene filter cloth were examined using scanning electron microscopy and capillary flow porometry. The raw data measured by the capillary flow porometer were processed using the developed method that considers changes in flow regimes as pressure increases. In addition, the nonideality of pores, originating from tortuosity, an irregular cross-sectional shape of the pore, and the number of pores, were considered in calculations by combining all these characteristics in one single parameter. This work shows that pores in a textile material are not ideal cylinders. The standard pore size distribution calculations should consider an imperfect pore structure and, therefore, be corrected.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-19T07:43:19Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221146512
Effect of the direct introduction of disulfide groups with 2-iminothiolane
hydrochloride on wrinkle recovery of natural protein fibers
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  Authors: Akio Kuzuhara
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  To develop environmentally friendly natural protein fibers with good wrinkle recovery without changing their excellent physical properties, thiol groups were directly introduced into silk and wool fibers by chemical modification using 2-iminothiolane hydrochloride. Thereafter, disulfide (–SS–) groups were introduced by oxidative cross-linking. The wrinkle recovery of the wool fabrics improved with the increase in 2-iminothiolane hydrochloride concentration. In particular, introducing the reduction process between the 2-iminothiolane hydrochloride treatment and the oxidation process improved the wrinkle recovery of wool fabrics. In contrast, the silk fabrics treated with 0.04 wt% 2-iminothiolane hydrochloride exhibited good wrinkle recovery. In addition, combustion-ion chromatography revealed that sulfur was introduced into the silk fabrics by oxidation after 2-iminothiolane hydrochloride treatment. According to these experiments, directly introducing –SS– groups using 2-iminothiolane hydrochloride into silk and wool fibers effectively improves wrinkle recovery without changing the physical properties of natural protein fabrics.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-18T08:25:20Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221150800
CPRM: Color perception and representation model for fabric image based on
color sensitivity of human visual system
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  Authors: Xueqing Zhao, Han Yang, Xin Shi, Kaixuan Liu, Yun Wang, Guigang Zhang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  As an important attribute of fabric appearance and the first element that affects vision, color plays an important part in fabric and garment design, development, production and sales. Fabrics are becoming increasingly colorful which raises the difficulty of automatic recognition. With the development of computer vision technology, it has become a mainstream research hotspot to process and recognize fabric colors through novel computer vision techniques. In this paper, a color perception and representation model (CPRM) for fabric image based on color sensitivity of the human visual system is proposed to deal with the color changes caused by the human eye’s perception of fabric appearance. Inspired by the human visual biological mechanisms, we designed a CPRM by using the color sensitive function. In order to verify the effectiveness of the proposed CPRM, two types of computer simulation experiments are simulated, which are color shifts and color matching. The former verifies that our proposed model can effectively simulate the human visual system in color perception actions, which is consistent with the results verified by biological experimental data; the latter shows that the proposed model’s synergy of assimilation and contrast is closer to the biological model during the color perception stage. Finally, the CPRM is applied on three different fabric image data sets, and extensive experiments are simulated by the proposed CPRM. The CPRM could not only effectively characterize the color contrasts, but also accurately express the color changes caused by the fine adjustment of dyed fibers. The experimental results show the validity of the proposed CPRM, which can effectively perceive and represent fabric color. The proposed CPRM has important application prospects in improving color matching efficiency and intelligent production level in the textile industry.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-18T07:52:33Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221150647
A novel objective fabric pilling evaluation method based on the
photometric stereo algorithm
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  Authors: Jian Luo, Binjie Xin, Xiuwen Yuan
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The pilling grade is one of the important indexes to evaluate the quality of fabric; the traditional method for pilling evaluation is based on manual operation, which is subjective. In this paper, a self-developed system is established and a photometric stereo-based three-dimensional (3D) acquisition method for pilling evaluation has been demonstrated. Firstly, a 3D surface model is obtained by using photometric stereo, mapping a 3D model to a two-dimensional image; the gray value is used to represent the depth value of the fabric surface and the pilling segmentation is realized by the Otsu threshold method after filtering the fabric texture by the relative total variance algorithm. The pilling number and pilling area are used as eigenvectors for pilling classification using the support vector machine. Finally, the classification accuracy of the pilling grade was 95.9%. For pilling evaluation, the developed system and method can be considered reliable and effective according to the experimental results.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-18T07:40:33Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221145907
Evaluation method of fabric pilling grades based on saliency-based deep
convolutional network
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  Authors: Shengqi Guan, Dongdong Liu, Luping Hu, Ming Lei, Hongyu Shi
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  In order to improve the objectivity of fabric pilling evaluation, a saliency deep convolutional network method for fabric pilling evaluation is proposed. First of all, the fabric pilling instrument is used to generate pilling fabric samples as a nonstandard dataset that is added to the standard fabric pilling dataset. The dataset is expanded through data augmentation to increase the number and diversity of pilling data. Then, a saliency preprocessing model is constructed to achieve the preprocessing of the fabric pilling image dataset by fusing the local and global saliency map. Finally, improvements to the ResNet 34 network model are made. The convolutional layer is improved to achieve small target pilling features enhancement. The residual module in the residual network is improved by using ReLU6 as the activation function, giving a down-sampling convolution on the shortcut branch of each residual block and adding average pooling, which avoids the loss of weight information. An improved attention mechanism module is added to extract fully and learn fabric pilling features according to the channel attention mechanism in parallel with the spatial attention mechanism. The recommended method uses standard and nonstandard pilling fabric samples to expand the number and diversity of the dataset. The improved ResNet 34 network model improves the ability of feature extraction and learning, thus improving the accuracy of pilling evaluation. The experimental results show that the average accuracy of the proposed method is 93.88%, which indicates that the pilling grade evaluation algorithm used can effectively achieve the grade evaluation of fabric pilling.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-18T07:36:17Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221149678
Study on a theoretical model of braided auxetic yarns made from a
high-speed braiding machine
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  Authors: Zhuoran Liu, Qiaoli Xu, Jiali Xiong, Zhaoqun Du
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The main content of this article theoretically analyzes the yarn diameter and Poisson's ratio variation of braided auxetic yarns under axial strain. Braided auxetic yarns are composed of three components: wrap yarns, the core yarn, and the stiff yarn. The core yarn has a larger diameter and smaller elastic modulus than the other two kinds of yarns, but its rigidity is lower. There is a lack of theoretical basis for predicting the Poisson's ratio of braided auxetic yarn. Based on the geometric model, the curve of the Poisson's ratio has been determined and the Poisson's ratio trend of braided auxetic yarns is deduced, aiming to predict the Poisson's ratio of braided auxetic yarns under axial strain with accurate yarn parameters. The experimental results show that the minimum Poisson's ratio of theoretical value and actual value appears under the same axial strain, and the variation trend of Poisson's ratio of both values is consistent. The Poisson's ratio curve of braided auxetic yarns is predicted, which lays a theoretical foundation for the development of auxetic materials and also provides more possibilities for subsequent research.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-18T07:33:33Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221149449
A vision-based approach to mapping flexible objects for garment
development
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  Authors: Ge Lei, Xiaohui Li
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  For variable and flexible objects, there is no appropriate intelligent method to quantitatively characterize the three-dimensional (3D) form, especially for garment development. To address the problem, we proposed a novel approach to mapping 3D flexible objects with the coded graphic as a medium. Two-dimensional mapping patterns were used to characterize the 3D form and extract metric information. The proposed graphic code is small in size and it is easy to demonstrate position. With different fabrication techniques, various coding materials are available. With only a monocular image, the method shows high accuracy and low cost without the need for camera calibration in advance. Specifically, the processes of the method, including the algorithm of feature extraction, decoding, mapping position calculation, and pattern generation, are discussed. Two tests were implemented, and the results showed that the method was accurate and simplified the process of made-to-measure garment development. The proposed method has great application potential in the manufacturing of labor-intensive and experience-dependent flexible industries, such as apparel, home decoration, shoes, and other related areas. It also sets the stage for further artificial intelligence research of flexible objects.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-17T07:43:28Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221149212
Utilization of Uncaria gambir Roxb leaf extract as a reducing agent in the
green synthesis of Ag/TiO2 composites and its application for
multifunctional towels
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  Authors: Adam Haikal Sahadewo, Tiur Elysabeth, Slamet
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Unhygienic use of towels can cause bacterial infections. Therefore, it is necessary to develop anti-bacterial, self-cleaning, hydrophilic towels. TiO2 photocatalyst modification with Ag nanoparticles can add these properties to towels. However, the problem is the process of reducing Ag ions, which usually uses chemical reducing agents that are dangerous, toxic, and expensive. This study aims to utilize gambir leaf extract as an alternative reducing agent so that Ag/TiO2 synthesis can be carried out using a green process. The results of field emission scanning electron microscopy characterization showed that the use of gambier leaf extract as a reducing agent did not cause aggregation or agglomeration. Ultraviolet-visible diffuse reflectance spectroscopy analysis showed that the bandgap energy of Ag/TiO2 prepared using gambir leaf extract as the reducing agent was only slightly higher than that of its counterpart. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy characterization showed an increase in the number of OH groups on the Ag/TiO2 towels compared to the blank towels. This proves that Ag/TiO2 towels have superior hydrophilic properties. The results of the anti-bacterial, self-cleaning, and hydrophilic tests showed that the optimal Ag loading in various tests was 3%, which could disinfect up to 33% of the bacteria and possessed the best self-cleaning, absorption capacity, and drying rates.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-17T07:37:34Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221145621
A review of wearable carbon-based sensors for strain detection:
fabrication methods, properties, and mechanisms
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  Authors: Yingying Zhang, Qiyue Xiao, Qiuyan Wang, Yan Zhang, Ping Wang, Yuanyuan Li
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Carbon-based flexible wearable sensors have received widespread attention due to their wide application in wearable electronics. This work reviewed the different carbon-based sensors from three aspects, such as fabrication, performance and working mechanisms. Carbon materials mainly included carbon nanotubes, graphene, carbon black and other carbon materials. In particular, carbon nanotubes and graphene can be assembled into various multiscale macrostructures to prepare various forms of flexible sensors, such as films, fibers, yarns or fabrics. Up to now, the reviewed flexible strain sensors in general exhibit high sensitivity, wide sensing range, fast response, long-term stability and durability. However, in the face of complex environmental and multifunctional integration in practical applications, wearable strain sensors need new technological breakthroughs in the preparation process, material synthesis and device integration.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-16T09:03:46Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221148263
Integrated sliding mode intelligent fractional-order backstepping control
of warp tension based on fixed-time extended state observer
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  Authors: Maowen Fu, Danfeng Shen, Gang Zhao, Guofei Shang, Shunwei Bai, Xufeng Li, Zumao Hao
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The purpose of this study is to develop an integral sliding mode intelligent fractional-order backstepping controller based on a fixed-time extended state observer (ISMIFOBC-ESO) to control warp tension. First, the time-varying mathematical model of the let-off system was studied and converted into the state equation. Due to the parameter uncertainty and healed motion of the let-off system, the total external disturbance of the system is unknown. We designed a fixed-time extended state observer to deal with this situation, the estimated total interference is updated into the control algorithm in real time to reduce the tracking error. The nonlinear integral sliding surface is designed and integrated into the backstepping control to ensure the finite time convergence and stability of the algorithm. The fractional-order theory with more degrees of freedom is introduced further to enhance the control accuracy and robustness of the algorithm, the stability is proved by the Lyapunov theorem and the control law is designed. The simulation experiment verifies the effectiveness of the designed scheme compared with the other two controllers in the case of sinusoidal-like signals and step signals.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-16T08:59:01Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221148258
Bio-coloration and ultraviolet protection finishing of tussah silk using
chestnut leaf extract and its thermodynamic study
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  Authors: Yue Zhang, Yan-Mei Jia
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  This study investigates the dyeing effects of chestnut leaf extract on tussah silk and aspires to create bio-colored and ultraviolet-resistant textiles. The results proved that post-mordanting with aluminum potassium sulfate and ferrous sulfate yielded better results than direct dyeing, the color strength value with ferrous sulfate mordant reached 10.9, and the color fastness of tussah silk with post-mordanting was rated above 4. Furthermore, the ultraviolet protection factor values reached 17, 39, 45, and 53 with control, direct dyeing, and post-mordanting with aluminum potassium sulfate and ferrous sulfate, respectively, revealing that the chestnut leaf extract could be a potential ultraviolet protection agent to increase the ultraviolet protection performance on tussah silk. In addition, the adsorption process and thermodynamic characteristics of chestnut leaf extract on tussah silk were examined. The results suggested that the Langmuir isotherm model adequately described the thermodynamic behavior of chestnut leaf extract on tussah silk. The positive enthalpy change indicated that the adsorption process was an endothermic process.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-16T08:55:36Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221147723
An ultrasound-assisted nitrogen protection system for sustainable indigo
dyeing of cotton fabrics
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  Authors: Kangkang Wang, Yuchen Meng, Qingliang Luo, Liming Wang, Rongwu Wang, Xiaohong Qin
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The traditional process of denim dyeing is highly environmentally damaging due to high temperature used for reduction and dyeing as well as the heavy use of sodium dithionite. It can be efficient if dyeing can be carried out with an environmental reducing agent under nitrogen protection or if the liquor ratio can be reduced. However, at such a low liquor ratio, dye molecules form agglomerates, which results in inefficient dye-uptake and uneven dyeing. This study investigated the possibility of applying ultrasound in conjunction with nitrogen protection to the dyeing of cotton fabrics with indigo reduced by the reducing agent DK. Comparing the reducing agent DK with the other reducing agents, it was found that reducing agent DK had stronger reducing and better properties for indigo dyed fabrics. Furthermore, the synergistic effect of nitrogen protection and ultrasound prevented the early oxidation and agglomeration of the leuco-indigo. It was evident that there was an increased contact area between the leuco-indigo and the cotton fiber, as well as a decrease in the crystallinity of the cellulose macromolecules. And the increased amorphous region of the cellulose macromolecules facilitated indigo-leuco’s penetration into the fiber, resulting in enhanced dyeing depths and uniformity. In addition, orthogonal experiments and gray clustering analysis were utilized to optimize the dyeing process. As a result of the optimized dyeing process, the K/S and S values of dyed denim fabric reached 16.70 and 0.12, respectively, which was 42% and 72% higher than the traditional sodium dithionite dyeing process. It was found that the dyeing liquid was more susceptible to biological and chemical degradation. In addition, the total economic costs were reduced by 11.702%. It is conceivable that eco-friendly dyeing strategies presented here have superior dyeing properties which can significantly enhance the sustainability of denim dyeing processes.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-16T08:52:01Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221144779
A novel test method of load-bearing performance of sized warp yarn based
on weaving load simulation and its effectiveness
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  Authors: Min Guo, Jingan Wang, Weidong Gao
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  To simulate the weaving process effectively and evaluate the load-bearing performance of sized warp yarn based on the tensile and friction loads of warp in weaving, a weaving load simulation tester of sized warp yarn (SWL) named JN-01 was designed and developed in this paper. It realized the simulation of warp tension, opening tensile load, and abrasion load, respectively. In addition, the SWL included three auxiliary function modules, that is, take-up and let-off, yarn breaking automatic stop, and human–computer interaction interface. The load-bearing life of sized warp yarn was measured by the number of load cycles when the yarn broke. Taking pure cotton sized warp yarn of 14.5 tex as the test sample, the effects of adjustable parameters of the SWL, such as working frequency, opening stroke, yarn tension, reed swing angle, and winding speed, on the load-bearing performance of sized warp yarn were systematically studied. Aiming at the stability of the test results of load-bearing life, the parameters of the SWL were optimized by the analysis of response surface methodology. The optimization results showed that: when the parameters were maintained at the following level, that is, working frequency of 180 rpm, winding speed of 3 mm/min, opening stroke of 32 mm, reed swing angle of 12° and yarn tension of 1.7 cN/tex, the relative deviation between the predicted value and the theoretical value of load-bearing life CV was 0.85%. The results also indicated that the optimized instrument parameters had good reproducibility.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-16T08:46:21Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221140865
Micromechanical modeling and experimental analysis of yarn separation type
sewing damage on continuous filament fabrics
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  Authors: Lina Cui, Chengwu Weng, Gui Liu, Canyi Huang, Fanxizi Liu, Yinjia Zhang, Yiping Qiu, Chuyang Zhang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Fabrics with weaves of low interlacing density and smooth yarns such as continuous cuprammonium filaments are often susceptible to sewing damage of cracks perpendicular to the sewing line, seriously influencing the aesthetics of the finished garment. To understand how the important factors such as yarn modulus, yarn bending stiffness, sewing needle radius, yarn-on yarn-friction, fabric counts and fabric weaves act on the crack length of such a fabric, a micromechanical model is proposed, and the experimental results are compared with the theoretical prediction. Single yarn pull-out tests and single yarn axial compression tests are performed to estimate yarn-on-yarn friction and yarn bending stiffness, respectively. The model indicates that the sewing crack length is positively proportional to the yarn tensile modulus, yarn bending stiffness and the needle radius and is negatively proportional to the fabric count and the inter-yarn friction. The model predicted crack lengths are within the range of the experimental results in warp direction while the predicted value is substantially larger than the observed crack lengths in weft direction due to the high compressibility of the weft yarn, which decreased yarn tension, bending stiffness and increased yarn cover power. For a given fabric, increasing yarn-on-yarn friction and raising yarn compressibility is an effective way to control the crack lengths.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-12T06:16:45Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221144239
Mitigation of firefighters’ skin burn injuries utilizing auxiliary
measures
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  Authors: Rumeel A Bhutta, Sengkwan Choi
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The improvement in the thermal resistance of firefighter’s outer garments has been traditionally achieved with the implementation of phase change materials or aerogel as an added protective measure. This study proposes supplementary novel cost-effective measures to enhance the thermal resistance of conventional firefighter outer garments. The proposed measures consist of auxiliary protective layers of meta-aramid fabric of a plain weave and a honeycomb structure. A custom built vertically oriented bench-scale apparatus was used to simulate extreme to life-threatening fire environments characterized in terms of an incident radiative flux of 84 kW/m2 and 126 kW/m2. The fluctuations in experimental heat flux density were treated by employing a Gaussian empirical model. The heat dissipation rate within the skin layers was predicted with a numerical model based on finite element methodology. The skin burns were classified with Henrique’s integral. The conventional outer garment when exposed to 84 kW/m2 and 126 kW/m2 resulted in a superficial second and third-degree burn. The auxiliary layers, in conjunction with the outer garment, mitigated second and third-degree burns. The meta-aramid fabric of a plain weave exhibited better thermal resistance than the honeycomb structure layer. The proposed measures reduced the epidermis temperature by 32%. An inner garment made of meta-aramid fabric is recommended to be worn concurrently with an outer protective suit for severe fire incidents due to its relative ease of use. Honeycomb structure layers are not recommended due to their weak structure and restriction in mobility.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-06T11:44:15Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221147245
Recycling polypropylene from non-woven disposable masks in developing a
three-dimensional printing filament
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  Authors: Meng Zhang, Sarina Sun, Jun Liu, Jianzhong Sun
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Non-woven disposable masks play a unique role in reducing the COVID-19 pandemic threat in transmission between people, but the huge amount of disposable non-woven masks generated every day are currently posing a serious challenge to our environment on a global-wide scale. In line with this emerging problem, a series of recycling processes were designed and conducted to evaluate the performance of material recovered from those waste masks for potential use in three-dimensional (3D) printing. A composite filament from recycled polypropylene (rPP) and an additive material, glass fiber (GF), was fabricated by melt-blending processing followed by single-screw extrusion. A variety of material properties, including the chemical/mechanical/microstructure property, thermal stability, printability, rheology performance, and geometrical accuracy toward GF/rPP composite filaments, were comprehensively analyzed. Our results demonstrated that two important mechanical properties, the compression strength and the tensile strength, to a 3D printed object by fused deposition modeling (FDM) from the GF/rPP composite were significantly higher than that of a FDM 3D printed object from GF/polypropylene composites. The specific warpage parameter (Wsp) and the surface roughness (Sa) for a 3D printed object from the GF/rPP composite at 30 wt% GF additive would have printing accuracy of 0.54% ± 0.0014 and 21.1 ± 0.76 µm, respectively, and no clogging phenomenon was observed in the printer nozzle channel during the printing processing, suggested that this recycling method for a large number of non-woven waste masks was potentially applicable in serving as a FDM 3D printing material.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-06T06:47:31Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221147722
A novel face mask design with improved properties for COVID-19 prevention
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  Authors: Laine Alby, Ajay Jayswal, Sarah Morris, Will McAtee, Vrishank Raghav, Sabit Adanur
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Novel cloth face masks to mitigate the spread of COVID-19 have been developed and tested for particle (0.1 μm in size) filtration efficiency, bacterial filtration efficiency, breathability, leakage, heart rate, and blood oxygen level, and then compared with the available N95 masks and surgical masks. It was found that this novel mask had better filtration efficiency than that of surgical masks and was very close to that of N95 masks. The breathability was also improved and was in the range of the designated levels for barrier face coverings. The flow visualization technique was utilized to study the leakage of the mask and it was found to have significantly lower leakage as compared to surgical masks. Heart rate and blood oxygen level tests were performed by wearing the mask during 10-minute walking sessions and it was found that wearing the mask did not adversely affect heart rate or blood oxygen levels or add any other strain on the wearer. It is believed that this novel face mask would reduce the spread of COVID-19 as well as provide an environmentally and economically conscious alternative to the N95 respirators for the public. The mask developed in this study can be washed, reused, and therefore worn for longer periods of time.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-05T08:54:57Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221146295
Multifunctional photothermal fabrics with water repellent for efficient
crude oil adsorption and seawater desalination
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  Authors: Xiangyi Gu, Xuying Chen, Li na Wang, Changyuan Song, Junhua Hu, Wentao Liu
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Solar-driven crude oil adsorption and seawater desalination have become promising strategies for oil spill recovery and freshwater production, respectively. However, the water adsorbed into the solar absorber has negative impacts on both the oil adsorption capacity and water evaporation rate, so it is vital to restrain water from entering the solar absorber. Herein, a versatile photothermal fabric was prepared by modifying carbon cloth (CC) with polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS). The introduction of PDMS improves the light absorption and the hydrophobicity, and prevents water from being adsorbed into the absorber. Taking advantage of the above properties, CC@PDMS exhibits an outstanding crude oil adsorption capacity of 21.13 g g−1 and a remarkable evaporation rate of 1.81 kg m−2 h−1. This work provides a facile strategy for solving the common issue of solar-driven crude oil adsorption and solar steam generation.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-05T08:52:37Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221147252
Morphological, mechanical, and color strength properties of infrared dyed
pineapple leaf fibers
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  Authors: Anis Nazahah Mohd Amin, Wan Syazehan Ruznan, Suraya Ahmad Suhaimi, Nor Juliana Mohd Yusof, Muhammad Ismail Ab Kadir, Mohd Azlin Mohd Nor
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The enormous number of pineapple plantations in Malaysia are dominated by small to large agronomists governed by the Malaysian Pineapple Industrial Board, which addresses almost all pineapple industry-related issues. In Malaysia, more than 147,000 hectares of land are utilized for pineapple plantations, which create 65 tons of residue per hectare. Consequently, the waste production comes from the long leaves of the harvested mother plants of pineapples that are cut off to allow the young sucker to grow freely, which then can be found abundantly. However, the handling practice for pineapple leaf waste in Malaysia is still poorly managed. Realizing the importance of this issue, as an alternative to reduce waste, fibers from pineapple leaves were extracted and dyed to improve the aesthetic value and marketability of pineapple leaf fiber by adding dyeing substrates using a low energy consumption dyeing approach. Two different techniques of dyeing were used to investigate the morphological, mechanical, color strength, and colorfastness properties of dyed pineapple leaf fibers. The dyeing of pineapple leaf fibers was investigated using C.I. reactive blue 5, C.I reactive red 11, and C.I Reactive yellow 86 at different concentrations. As a result, the characterization of dyed pineapple leaf fiber (PALF) showed that the dyeing process modified the original structure of PALF but no significant differences were observed on dyed PALF in the comparison of each dyeing technique. In addition, under optimized conditions of two dyeing techniques dyed PALF presented lower breaking strength, whereas comparable breaking strength value was gained with each technique. Fibers of both dyeing techniques displayed interesting color findings with excellent colorfastness to washing, lightfastness, and good colorfastness to perspiration. The infrared dyeing method resulted in similar and better dyeing behavior compared to exhaustion dyeing techniques. This method could further be refined by considering the production of textile materials, which can provide alternative to the usage of highly expensive silk fibers in the songket making industry.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-04T08:38:56Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221136291
Preparation of a Janus-polyvinylidene fluoride micro/nano fiber membrane
by centrifugal spinning and investigation into its unidirectional water
transfer and oil–water separation functions
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  Authors: Xiaotian Yu, Xian Zhang, Hongjing Zhang, Ke Zhou, Xu Chen, Haitao Hao, Yongqiang Li, Yi Huang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Traditional oil–water separation membranes have a high energy consumption and complicated operation. To solve this problem, an asymmetric wetting polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF) fiber membrane with a hydrophobic side and a hydrophilic side was prepared. Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane was grafted onto one side of a centrifugal spun PVDF fiber membrane by plasma initiation, and dopamine was sprayed on the other side of the fiber membrane. The Janus-PVDF fiber membrane prepared can separate a mixture of water and dibromoethane, a toluene–water emulsion and a mixture of n-hexane and water. The initial interception rates were 98.53% ± 1.31%, 98.52% ± 1.12% and 98.61% ± 1.23%, respectively. After five cycles of separation, the separation rates remained at 96.15% ± 1.25%, 95.02% ± 1.21% and 96.91% ± 1.42%, respectively. The Janus-PVDF fiber membrane has excellent unidirectional water transfer capability and possesses well-repeated separability. The preparation of its unique Janus structure also provides a new direction for the field of oil–water separation.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-04T07:28:36Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221148265
The carbon fiber/epoxy composites toughened by fire-resistant glass fiber
veils: Flammability and mechanical performance
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  Authors: Lei Nie, Jiawei Li, Xiaofei Yan, Chenkai Zhu, Xiaoming Yang, Yaobang Li, Dongming Qi
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The fire-retardant properties of high-performance fiber-reinforced composites are the crucial benchmark for composite structure stability. However, in the current flame-retardant solution for composites it is difficult to reach the balance between fire resistance and structural performance due to the deteriorating composite interface. In this work, the carbon fiber-reinforced composite was covered with functional glass fiber layers, in which the glass fiber veil had been treated with flame-retardant agents and silicone-modified waterborne polyurethane, in order to be endowed with flame-retardant capability and structure toughness. As such, a significant improvement in the flame retardancy and mechanical structure of the composites could be observed. When compared with the control, the total heat release and total smoke release for composites with 8% silicone-modified waterborne polyurethane treatment could be decreased by 18.5% and 18.1%, while the tensile and flexural strength were significantly increased by 47.3% and 62.2%, respectively. This well-balanced performance is attributable to the structure design with a toughened glass fiber veil to protect the composite surfaces from fire combustion and structure failure. Therefore, this flame-retardant structure design provides a new strategy to achieve high-performance composites with prospective applications for aircraft and aerospace.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-04T07:26:15Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221147729
Novel nano BaTiO3-based microwave vacuum treatment for precise and
controllable scales stripping of wool fibers
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  Authors: Liuxiang Zhan, Jiahui Pei, Jianye Yuan, Yuling Li, Feng Ji, Ni Wang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Barium titanate nanoparticles were used as a locator to help accurately break the scales on the surface of wool fibers under microwave vacuum treatment, as an anti-felting process of wool with low environmental impact. The nanoparticles loaded by ultrasound are sandwiched between the scales and fibers, which allows the microwave energy concentration to break the scales for the shrink resistance of wool and avoid damaging the main body of fibers synchronously. The friction and mechanical properties of wool under microwave treatment with different power, temperature and processing time were discussed, morphological and chemical analysis of the fibers after treatment was also carried out. The results suggested that compared with the uncoated fibers, the anti-felting performance of the coated fibers after treatment had been significantly improved, while maintaining the mechanical properties, the tip end of the scales on the wool surface were cut off and the volume of the felting ball was increased by 82.3%. The nanoparticles coating the wool were also easily cleaned without residue. This study provided a novel potential approach in the modification of wool fibers for anti-felting.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-04T07:23:31Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221147726
Study of color reproduction in pigment digital printing
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  Authors: Yujia Li, Xin Zhang, Liu Yang, Ruiyun Zhang, Rui Li
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  In pigment ink digital printing, the color difference between the original and the printed product can be visible due to the varied color gamut of devices and the impact of fabric characteristics on the color-presenting effect. To improve the color reproduction accuracy of digital printing, two methods, the full-process optimized (FPO) method and the neural network aided original adjustment (NNAOA) method, were proposed to reduce printing color difference during the color-transferring process. The FPO method, based on accounting for the fabric type and the characteristics of the printing machine, was proposed by optimizing the printing parameter settings in the color management process. Here, the optimal single-channel ink limit was determined and dot gain was compensated using the inverse function correction method, and then the International Color Consortium profile was generated. After using the FPO method, the color difference between the printed sample and the original was reduced from 20.8 to 5.254 compared with performing the original color management. To reduce the reliance on personal experience in color adjustment, the NNAOA method was proposed and implemented for 20 color patches with the largest color differences in the FPO method, allowing the color of the originals to be adjusted with the establishment of the general regression neural network model. This method predicted the input CMYK values of the original using measured L*a*b* values for the printed sample. The results showed that the color difference of the 20 color patches was reduced from 8.54 to 6.60. Consequently, both methods offered distinguishable improvements in the color reproduction effect.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-04T07:21:16Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221147725
A sustainable desizing process for PVA-sized cotton fabric using
ultraviolet C
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  Authors: Sanjay Kumar Bhikari Charan Panda, Kushal Sen, Samrat Mukhopadhyay
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The textile industry has an enormous demand for energy and water. The traditional desizing method requires approximately 120 L kg–1 of water to remove size. A sustainable process has been developed using ultraviolet C for polyvinyl alcohol-based textile desizing. With the help of ultraviolet C irradiation, the cotton fabric desizing is accomplished at a lower temperature to save approximately 67% of water, 68% of time, and 83% of energy compared with conventional process without compromising the quality. The treated fabric has been characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and wide-angle X-ray diffraction and shows no significant change in the structure of the cotton. Life cycle analysis confirms the new technique is sustainable.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-04T07:16:15Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221146746
FE modeling of woven fabric at the fiber bundle level under ballistic
impact
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  Authors: Yanfei Yang, Zihu Wang, Minghuan Wang, Yan Zhang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  In previous studies, ballistic impact on the fabric panel was usually simulated at the yarn level, which failed to capture ballistic responses of fibers. This study aims to employ a finite element model based on fiber bundle level to investigate the influence of fabric architecture on ballistic responses. The ballistic performance of fabrics with different architectures was investigated first through ballistic tests. The architecture parameters including aspect ratio of the yarn cross-section and yarn crimp ratio were found to be the dominant factors, which were further investigated through finite element modeling. Finite element results showed that finite element modeling at the fiber bundle level can lead to an increase of frictional energy dissipation during ballistic impact. For the yarn cross-section shape, reduction of the aspect ratio was beneficial on energy absorption due to better fracture synchrony of fibre bundles under impact. The crimp yarn path had a negative effect on stress wave propagation. When yarns were interlaced, the yarn cross-overs in fabric have further hindered the stress wave propagation. In comparison with the low crimp fabric, the fabric with the higher crimp ratio possesses a wider transverse deformation area under impact. Correspondingly, in the high crimp fabric more yarns were involved in the transverse deformation, which resulted in higher energy absorption. However, high stress concentration on the high crimp yarns can result in premature failure of fibers at the impact area. Such results contribute to a further understanding of ballistic responses from different hierarchies of fabric during ballistic impact.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-04T07:13:15Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221146691
From silica colloidal particles to photonic crystals: Progress in
fabrication and application of structurally colored materials
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  Authors: Xiaoyan Zhao, Weihong Gao, Shu Yang, Jiakun Liu, Md Said Hasan, Zhiyue Zhang, Huanhuan Chen
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Photonic crystals have attracted extensive attention because of their wide application in optics and photonics. These structures can be made by “top-down” or “bottom-up” self-assembly methods. Self-assembly methods have received particular attention due to their low cost, simple manufacturing process, relatively easy scaling, and ease of creating complex structures with nanometer precision. Self-assembled colloidal crystals play an essential role in the formation of photonic crystals. In this article, the assembly of colloidal crystals-silica particles, the synthesis of silica particles, and the assembly of three-dimensional photonic crystals based on inorganic/inorganic and inorganic/organic composites are introduced in detail. The formation of silica based bionic structure material can produce different optical properties of conventional materials. It provides unprecedented opportunities for textiles, pigments, sensing, information encryption, stealth materials, anti-counterfeit marks, energy collection, environmental remediation, and a variety of other application fields.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-04T07:05:03Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221146291
Neuronal network algorithm towards color model of full color gamut yarn
and its color prediction research
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  Authors: Xianqiang Sun, Yuan Xue, Yuexing Liu, Liqiang Wang, Lixia Liu
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  This article builds a gridded color matching model based on digital color mixing of four primary colored fibers in the context of digital spinning, which can separately perform regulation of hue, saturation, and lightness within the full color gamut. Combining the requirements of a neuronal network prediction algorithm, the mixing ratios of primary colored fibers and spectral reflectance were used as input and output parameters for each other, and 41 grid point mixing samples were selected from the constructed gridded color mixing model, 31 of which were chosen as training samples to establish a neuronal network model containing input, hidden, and output layers. The remaining 10 mixed samples were then selected as predicting samples to perform validation of the model's capability to predict the color or the mixing ratio of the four primary colored fibers. The final results showed that the color difference of the mixed samples used for color prediction was 0.90 at the minimum, 2.31 at the maximum, and 1.45 at the average; the mean absolute error for proportional forecasting was 0.19%, and the root mean square error was 0.97%. The findings indicate that the forecasting method has excellent prediction accuracy, and the constructed color matching model of four primary colors and neuronal network algorithm can be applied to the prediction of mixed colors of multiple primary colored fibers, providing technical support for the spinning of colored yarns.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-04T07:02:35Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221146290
Determination of the lignin content of flax fiber with the acetyl
bromide-ultraviolet visible spectrophotometry method
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  Authors: Lin Zhang, Jiajia Fu, Chaoran Meng, Li Dai, Na-won Baek, Weidong Gao, Xuerong Fan
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The conventional Klason lignin (KL) method has some shortcomings in the determination of lignin content, such as large sample consumption, long analysis time, and a large number of errors. Therefore, a rapid and accurate method for lignin content determination was studied. In this paper, flax fibers in three forms, namely, flax raw, flax noil and flax rove, were selected for the study, and the acetyl bromide-ultraviolet spectrophotometric lignin (ABUL) method was optimized for quantitative testing of the lignin content in flax fibers. The effect of acetyl bromide concentration, perchloric acid dosage, reaction temperature, and reaction time on the absorbance value was tested systematically. The test results indicated that the maximum characteristic absorption peak of lignin in flax fiber was determined at 276 nm. The optimized reaction conditions were as follows: acetyl bromide concentration of 35%, perchloric acid dosage of 0.3 mL, reaction temperature of 70°C, and reaction time of 80 min. The standard curve of the ABUL method was y = 23.75714x – 0.00636, R2 = 0.99913. By comparing the lignin content of flax fiber tested by the KL method and the ABUL method, it was found that the lignin content of flax raw, flax noil, and flax rove tested by the ABUL method was higher than that of the KL method. In addition, the ABUL method has the advantages of simplicity, rapidity, accuracy, and small sample consumption compared with the KL method.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-04T06:58:34Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221145633
Mesta (Hibiscus sabdariffa) and polylactic acid thermally bonded fabric
for sustainable shopping bags: modeling and optimization of functional
properties
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  Authors: Surajit Sengupta, Izhar Mustafa, Papai Ghosh
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  A thermally bonded biodegradable fabric has been developed using mesta and polylactic acid fibers. The central composite rotatable design has been adapted to understand the effects of the independent variables, that is polylactic acid content, roller temperature and roller pressure on useful functional properties such as bursting strength, bending load, tensile stress relaxation, tensile creep, rate of absorption, absorption capacity, porosity, abrasion resistance, and surface friction. Considering the linear, quadratic, and two-way interactive effects of independent variables, the second-order polynomial has been suggested for each property which proves good association except for absorption capacity and abrasion resistance. The effect of independent parameters has been studied and optimized from contour diagrams. The optimized process parameters for 140 g/m2 fabric are polylactic acid content 30%, mesta content 70%, roller temperature 170°C, and roller pressure 150 N/cm2, which can be used successfully as a shopping bag. The shopping bag was prepared from developed fabric. Its performance test shows no deformation for up to 14 days in the hanging test, resistance up to 10 wetting-drying cycles proves reusability, it sustains up to four drops, and has a slight strength loss in 30 days of atmospheric exposure.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-04T06:56:12Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221143179
Simulation-based setting suggestions for yarn winding units to reduce
color variation in knitted fabric
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  Authors: Andre Schmeißer, Erik G Bell, Simone Gramsch, René Heidenreich
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The finishing of yarns by bobbin dyeing is of key importance in the value chain of home and apparel textiles. In the bobbin dyeing process, yarn bobbins are placed on dye spindles and passed through with dye liquor. If the winding process parameters are selected unfavorably, the density of the winding package is inhomogeneous. The inhomogeneous density distribution leads to an inhomogeneous flow of dye liquid through the package and, hence, to dyeing defects. In order to minimize dyeing defects and to reduce set-up times, we present a simulation-based parameter recommendation for cross-winding machines in this paper. We use a kinematic model of the winding process combined with an empirical model for the package diameter to optimize the package density distribution. We introduce a criterion to avoid patterning defects and adapt winding settings. For bobbins with Nm 34 Co yarn, the homogeneity of the density was improved and the color deviation was reduced by up to 50% due to these simulation-based setting suggestions.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2023-01-02T10:47:48Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221145908
Synthesis of epoxy resin-based aqueous polyurethane and application to
polyester-cotton fabric finishing
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  Authors: Xiang Zhang, Yudong Shang, Jiangping He, Tiehu Li, Yasen Li, Mingyue Li, Mengnan Wang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  In this work, epoxy resin (EP)-based aqueous polyurethane (PU) anionic PU dispersion was synthesized by the prepolymer and self-emulsification method. The PU prepolymer was first synthesized to serve as seeds. Then, trimethylolpropane and A-type EP (E-51) were introduced into it, followed by neutralization and emulsification reactions, and, finally, it formed a crosslinking network structural waterborne PU emulsion. The effect of epoxy contents on the particle size, rheological properties, storage stability, thermal stability, mechanical properties, and hydrophilicity of the resulting PU films was systematically investigated. The results showed that the PU dispersions displayed excellent storage stability and crosslinking density, and the glass transition temperature of the composite films was increased. The properties of self-made epoxy-modified polyurethane emulsion and polyester-cotton fabric before and after finishing were tested. The wrinkle resistance, hydrophobicity, and strength of the finished polyester/cotton fabric are improved, and it exhibits better color fastness to washing and rubbing.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2022-12-22T08:57:38Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221145755
Investigation of electrical performances of textile conductive lines under
different connector configurations and external influences
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  Authors: Lazar Milić, Dejan Movrin, Mitar Simić, Varun Jeoti, Goran M. Stojanović
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  As textile electronics has undergone a boom in the past few decades, especially the sensing aspect, methods of modular connectivity of these components with classical electrical components and printed circuit boards must be broadened. This study focuses on the aforementioned problem, as well as testing the electrical properties of conductive textile lines through a series of experiments. Fabrication of the conductive structure was done in two parts: embroidery of the conductive threads onto cloths, as well as designing and three-dimensional printing of connectors that will be used for bridging and making a stable connection with pin-based systems. A valid connection between the textile endings and pins has not yet been tested, and is the main focus of this paper, aside from testing outside influences on the designed textile structure. Afterwards, the developed prototype was tested through a realistic scenario that consisted of body temperature validations and the application of artificial sweat, as well as the quantification of the effects of washing on the electrical properties of the device. The outcome shows changes in the impedance modulus after washing. However, after application of artificial sweat, the nature of the parallel wire connections changes significantly, as the sweat acts as a resistive contact between the two wires. This examination can contribute to the field of wearable electronics through the proposed elements (conductive lines and connectors) of future electronic circuits in the concept of internet of bodies.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2022-12-22T08:53:18Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221145553
An image processing and machine learning solution to automate Egyptian
cotton lint grading
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  Authors: Oliver J Fisher, Ahmed Rady, Aly AA El-Banna, Nicholas J Watson, Haitham H Emaish
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Egyptian cotton is one of the most important commodities for the Egyptian economy and is renowned globally for its quality, which is largely assessed and graded by manual inspection. This grading has several drawbacks, including significant labor requirements, low inspection efficiency, and influence from inspection conditions such as light and human subjectivity. This work proposes a low-cost solution to replace manual inspection with classification models to grade Egyptian cotton lint using images captured by a charge-coupled device camera. While this method has been evaluated for classifying US and Chinese upland cotton staples, it has not been tested on Egyptian cotton, which has unique characteristics and grading requirements. Furthermore, the methodology to develop these classification models has been expanded to include image processing techniques that remove the influence of trash on color measurements and extract features that capture the intra-sample variance of the cotton samples. Three different supervised machine learning algorithms were evaluated: artificial neural networks; random forest; and support vector machines. The highest accuracy models (82.13–90.21%) used a random forest algorithm. The models’ accuracy was limited by the human error associated with labeling the cotton samples used to develop the classification models. Unsupervised machine learning methods, including k-means clustering, hierarchical clustering, and Gaussian mixture models, were used to indicate where labeling errors occurred.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2022-12-21T05:40:29Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221145571
Chemical recycling of hemp waste textiles via the ionic liquid based
dry-jet-wet spinning technology
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  Authors: Marja Rissanen, Inge Schlapp-Hackl, Daisuke Sawada, Susanna Raiskio, Krishna Ojha, Edward Smith, Herbert Sixta
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The chemical recycling of hemp fabric into high-tenacity man-made cellulose fibers was demonstrated. The fabric was laundered 25 and 50 times to mimic the wear cycles of post-consumer textile waste. Despite the launderings, the molar mass of the material was still too high for recycling via dry-jet-wet spinning. Thus, the fabrics were treated with an aqueous sulfuric acid solution to adjust the intrinsic viscosity to the targeted level of 400–500 ml/g. The acid hydrolyzed sample was dissolved in 1,5-diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-enium acetate and man-made cellulose fibers were regenerated by dry-jet-wet spinning. The properties of hemp and regenerated fibers were determined by tensile testing, birefringence measurements, and X-ray diffraction. Regenerated fibers were spun into yarn and knitted into a fabric. The tensile properties of the yarn and the abrasion and pilling resistance of the fabric were determined. Regenerated fibers showed a higher modulus of toughness (55.9 MPa) compared with hemp fibers (28.7 MPa). The fineness and staple length uniformity of regenerated fibers resulted in a high yarn structure evenness, a yarn tenacity of 28.1 cN/tex, and an elongation at break of 7.5%. Due to the even fabric structure, the fabric from regenerated fibers showed higher abrasion resistance than the hemp fabric.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2022-12-19T06:09:51Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221143744
Study on decolorization of methylene blue with a kind of electrolytic
active water
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  Authors: Ruoying Zhu, Yuru Shen, Jin Zhao, Guigang Shi, Jianyong Liu, Junping Cao
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Electrolytic active water was prepared by electrolytic treatment of sodium chloride aqueous solution using a self-made device. In order to investigate the properties of electrolytic active water , the pH value, available chlorine contents and decolorization ability on methylene blue solution were tested and compared with that of sodium hypochlorite aqueous solution. Experimental results showed that the electrolytic active water has higher oxidation capacity and decolorization efficiency for methylene blue compared with sodium hypochlorite solution, implying maybe other reactive oxygen species components besides hypochlorite existed in the electrolytic active water. The electrolytic active water was stable under long-term storage, and mechanical force with oxidation activity did not decrease. In addition, the decolorization kinetics of methylene blue in the electrolytic active water was explored, and it was found that, in general, the decolorization reaction of methylene blue in electrolytic active water was consistent with the first-order reaction kinetics model, but when the pH value of electrolytic active water solution was weakly alkaline or neutral, the decolorization reaction of methylene blue was closer to the second-order reaction kinetics model.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2022-12-16T07:56:29Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221143522
The mechanical and electrical properties of flexible strain sensors based
on carbonized cotton knitted fabric
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  Authors: Jing Zhang, Hairu Long, Peihua Zhang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  In recent years, developing flexible strain sensors with excellent and practical mechanical–electrical properties has remained a challenge. Weft knitted fabric made of loops with excellent extensibility is widely used in the textile and garment fields. In this work, a flexible strain sensor based on carbonized plain cotton fabric and thermoplastic polyurethane film for encapsulation was prepared by a simple, relatively environment-friendly, low-cost and scalable method. The plain cotton fabric was translated to a conductive fabric with impregnation (10% diamine hydrogen phosphate), oxidation (pre-oxidation at 240°C for 60 min in air), high-temperature carbonization treatment. The tensile and sensing properties of the encapsulated sensor based on this carbonized plain cotton fabric were tested in the course and wale extensions. The experimental results showed that the strain sensor exhibited high sensitivity, stable repeatability and low creep properties overall. The resistance change rates of the strain sensor stretched in the two directions had no apparent dependence on the tensile speed and frequency. The sensor in course stretching revealed a broad strain of more than 250% with the maximum gauge factor of 10.1, while in contrast, these two data were 140% and 9.2 in wale stretching, respectively. These excellent sensing performances were given credited to the unique modified structure of carbonized cotton knitted fabric. The carbonized cotton knitted fabric strain sensor has great potential in wearable devices for physiological signal monitoring and human motion detection due to its scalable manufacturing process, low material costs and superior mechanical–electrical properties.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2022-12-16T07:54:09Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221143520
Investigation of fiber maturity and crystallinity information in Upland
seed cottons by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy
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  Authors: Yongliang Liu, Christopher D. Delhom
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Cotton fiber maturity has been determined by cross-sectional image analysis (IA), advanced fiber information system (AFIS), and Cottonscope methods on cotton lint. These methods have reported the results as average maturity and maturity distribution in a sample, through measuring the fibers in the ways of either individual fiber cross-section or longitude of several sub-samples. Previous studies have shown good agreement in maturity for well-prepared samples among these methods, although AFIS is observed to be less sensitive. As a different approach, attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared (ATR FT-IR) spectroscopy was proposed to measure fiber maturity (MIR) at bundle fiber level. Extending fiber maturity measurement into seed cotton, the FT-IR method might be an option considering such factors as essential cotton seed and visible trash removal, measuring system availability and speed, and also sub-sampling representation in a naturally variable sample. A comparison of fiber MIR average in seed cottons with AFIS maturity ratio (MAFIS) in ginned cotton fibers exhibited a general trend of increasing MAFIS with MIR. On the basis of MIR value, 3-MIR (low-, mid-, and high-) fiber classification analysis implied the distinctions within seed cottons having close MIR average, and among the same cultivar grown at different conditions. Additionally, cultivars with a similar maturity distribution varied in fiber crystallinity (CIIR) distribution, and vice versa.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2022-12-16T07:52:09Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221137096
Image restoration fabric defect detection based on the dual generative
adversarial network patch model
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  Authors: Haoming Cheng, Jiuzhen Liang, Hao Liu
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The training of supervised learning requires the use of ground truth, which is difficult to obtain in large quantities in production practice. Unsupervised learning requires only flawless and anomalous images of fabrics, but inevitably generates a great deal of background noise when performing result generation, which reduces the quality of results. To overcome these limitations, we propose a new approach: image restoration fabric defect detection based on the dual generative adversarial network patch model (DGPM). We train with a modified generative adversarial network using only flawless and anomalous images of the fabric. We propose the patch model to directly obtain specific information about fabric defects and add a self-attentive model to reduce the generation of background noise. The performance of the DGPM is evaluated on box-, star-, and dot-patterned fabric databases. The true positive rate (TPR) of the box type is 81.56% and the f-measure is 62.69%, the TPR of the dot type is 83.72% and the f-measure is 67.33%, and the TPR of the star type is 79.79% and the f-measure is 64.65%.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2022-12-15T07:20:58Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221144777
Dynamic behavior analysis of the winding system during filament reversing
pushed by the traverse mechanism
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  Authors: Xunxun Ma, Shengze Wang, Feng Chen, Haitao Wang, Yongxing Wang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The filament bundle is a kind of fiber assembly with an ultrahigh length–diameter ratio. For textiles, the filament is an intermediate product in the textile production process. For ease of storage, transportation and subsequent processing, the filament is wound to form a disc-shaped package with a certain size. During winding, the high-speed moving filament is placed precisely on the cylindrical surface of the package with the spiral shape by the traverse mechanism. Unfortunately, uneven tension of the filament during reversing is caused by the action of the traverse mechanism, which directly affects the quality of the filament package. In this article, the approach of modeling and simulating the filament winding system was proposed, of which the element model of the filament was established by the absolute node coordinate formulation, considering its viscoelasticity, as well as the effect of gravity. The contact model between the filament and the rotary vane, as well as the contact roller, was established by the Hertz law. The equations of motion for the system were derived by the Lagrange equations, and the algorithm for solving the differential-algebraic equations was further derived. Then, the dynamic behavior of the winding system during reversing was simulated and analyzed, and the results show that the moving filament is in non-contact with the rotary vane at the moment of reversing, and the small fluctuation in contact force between the rotary vane and the filament causes the large fluctuation in the filament tension. Finally, the validity is tested through an experiment.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2022-12-15T07:11:03Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221143326
Failure mechanism of weft-knitted insertion fabric/Surlyn resin flexible
composite for stab resistance
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  Authors: Qing Liu, Yaxin Sun, Junzhu Zhao, Pibo Ma
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  In this paper, two kinds of aramid fibers were used to prepare weft-knitted insertion fabrics, flexible Surlyn resin as matrix to prepare reinforced weft-knitted insertion fabrics, the effects of hot-pressing temperature, resin content, pressure and holding time on reinforced weft-knitted insertion fabric were explored. Through lamination and co-curing, the effects of the lamination numbers, preparation methods and lamination sequence on the stab resistance of the multilayer system were studied. The results showed that appropriate hot-pressing temperature, resin content, pressure and holding time can improve the stab resistance by improving the permeability of resin in the fabric. However, over high temperatures, pressure and holding time have a negative impact on the stab resistance or flexibility of the composite; high resin content means higher weight, which is not conducive to human wearing. When the area density is similar, the stab resistance of the co-cured composite is the best, followed by the superposition of single-layer composite, finally is the superposition of film and fabric. Weft-knitted insertion fabrics and reinforced weft-knitted insertion fabrics can dissipate puncture energy through shear force, tensile fracture, friction and deformation of yarn or fabric. In addition, composites also have other energy dissipation pathways such as filament compression splitting, fabric/matrix debonding and matrix delamination.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2022-12-12T04:49:54Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221143544
Study of the surface properties of polypropylene by enzyme treatment
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  Authors: Weini Jia, Yiqing Yao, Jianmin Guo, Xiaoli Zhang, Zhijie Liang
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Surface modification of polypropylene is performed in this work by enzyme-catalyzed post-processing strategy. The polyDOPA was synthesized by in-situ polymerization in the present of laccase and deposited on the polypropylene surface. The effect of various process variables namely processing step, pH, time, and temperature is studied at various levels. The results show that one-bath and one-step method is the optimal mode. Various functional groups incorporated to the polymer surface are confirmed by attenuated total reflectance-Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy. The effect of process variables on surface morphology of polymers is evaluated by scanning electron microscopy, revealing that the surface of the polypropylene is covered with thin burrs, and these are regarded as polyDOPA adhered after treatment. Furthermore, the electrostatic charge decay time and contact angle as well as capillary wetting measurements of the modified polypropylene are 0.61 s and 75.33°, respectively, indicating its fine anti-static electricity and better wettability. Besides, this material shows dark gray colors and exhibits excellent ultraviolet-resistance performance. Interestingly, the modification process nearly has no influences on the mechanical property.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2022-12-06T06:23:26Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221143070
A neural network algorithm and its prediction model towards the full color
phase mixing process of colored fibers
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  Authors: Xianqiang Sun, Yuan Xue, Yuexing Liu, Liqiang Wang, Lixia Liu
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Aiming at the demand of color matching techniques in the spinning process, a neural network prediction model is constructed in this research study, and the gridded full color phase mixing space of colored fibers is used as the sample space. Subsequently, 30 grid points are employed as training samples, while another 30 grid points are adopted as testing samples, in which the parameters of the input, hidden, and output layers are optimized. Additionally, the neural network prediction model is constructed by training samples, and validated by testing samples. Lastly, a neural network prediction model is applied to implement the prediction of color and mixing ratios for any point within the full color phase mixing model. Through the assessment of the testing samples, the predicted results for the colors of the grid point samples showed an average color difference of 1.29 (minimum was 0.22 and maximum was 2.97); the forecasts for the mixing ratios of the colored fibers were that the range of the mean absolute error for the mixing ratios of individual samples was from 0.01% to 0.18%, and the mean absolute error for the mixing ratios of all samples was 0.21%. The experimental results indicated that the proposed neural network model has a relatively advanced prediction accuracy.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2022-11-30T10:53:03Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221138978
Modeling and deformation simulation of weft knitted fabric at yarn level
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  Authors: Xin Ru, Jia C Wang, Laihu Peng, Weimin Shi, Xudong Hu
  Abstract: Textile Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  This study proposes a method for 3D modeling of weft knitted fabric and simulating its deformation behavior. A geometric model of the fabric was established using a loop-mesh unit, and the surface of the yarn was calculated using a reference frame. The patterns of the fabrics were represented by bitmap images. To simulate the deformation behavior of the fabric, a physical model was built based on a dynamic spline that included stretching and bending of the yarn. To simplify the collisions between continuous yarns, collisions were detected using a discrete sphere-spring model. The Euler-Lagrange theorem was introduced to achieve the energy balance of the system, and a stable shape was obtained by solving the Euler-Lagrange equation explicitly according to the convergence conditions. Rendering and deformation of the model were implemented using a simulator program via C++ and OpenGL. The simulation displayed the 3D appearance of the weft knitted fabric. The deformed shapes of fabrics were accurately predicted by the proposed method.
  Citation: Textile Research Journal
  PubDate: 2022-11-17T06:17:32Z
  DOI: 10.1177/00405175221134934