Authors:Matthew Mitchell, Adrien McCrory, Isabelle Skaburskis, Brenda Appleton Abstract: Trans and gender diverse (TGD) people are disproportionately criminalised and face unique vulnerabilities when interacting with the criminal legal system. However, very little is known about TGD people’s experiences of criminalisation in Australia or the strategies TGD people and their advocates use to navigate the criminal legal system. Based on survey responses from TGD people with lived experience of criminalisation and lawyers with experience representing TGD clients, this article identifies several critical issues with the criminal legal system’s treatment of TGD people and outlines the strategies TGD people and their representatives suggest to address these issues. On this basis, we argue that criminologists and criminal legal practitioners urgently need to interrogate and work towards ameliorating the criminal legal system’s treatment of gender diversity. These insights will be crucial in informing future advocacy efforts and reform agendas, given that knowledge in this area is severely lacking. PubDate: 2022-07-27 DOI: 10.5204/ijcjsd.2225 Issue No:Vol. 11, No. 2 (2022)
Authors:Barbara Baird, Prudence Flowers, Catherine Kevin, Sharyn Roach Anleu Abstract: In March 2020, when emergency powers legislation was invoked in South Australia to manage COVID-19, the South Australian Abortion Action Coalition (saaac) had been campaigning to decriminalise abortion since 2015. The group quickly realised that COVID-19 restrictions would amplify pre-existing difficulties for abortion providers and their patients and focused its efforts on persuading members of the government and the Chief Public Health Officer to use emergency powers to suspend aspects of abortion law to enable better and safer access to abortion services, specifically medical abortion via telehealth. This article offers an account of saaac’s 2020 campaign and asks why the needs of abortion patients and their healthcare providers were sidelined at the height of the COVID-19 lockdown in SA in early 2020. PubDate: 2022-07-04 DOI: 10.5204/ijcjsd.2236 Issue No:Vol. 11, No. 2 (2022)
Authors:Alice Payne, Rowena Maguire, Amanda Kennedy Abstract: This special issue brings together scholars who have identified justice issues throughout the fashion system, encompassing how fashion is produced, consumed and discarded. While fashion systems have long been the focus of deep and varied perspectives on sustainability, from the environmental to social and cultural, we argue that characterising fashion justice as an environmental justice issue can usefully account for the multiple and intersecting ways in which fashion systems impact both human and more-than-human capabilities (Bick et al. 2018). Against the backdrop of the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and SDG 12 in particular, which calls for sustainable consumption and production patterns, it is timely and appropriate to consider fashion systems as a broader global environmental justice concern. PubDate: 2022-06-03 DOI: 10.5204/ijcjsd.2421 Issue No:Vol. 11, No. 2 (2022)
Authors:Justine Nolan Pages: 1 - 14 Abstract: Mandatory human rights due diligence is the latest global example of a legislative scheme for fostering corporate action on human rights risks within business supply chains. Such proposals stem from more than 30 years of increased pressure on companies to tackle labour rights abuses. If not clearly defined and implemented, human rights due diligence risks enhancing the legitimacy of techniques such as social auditing to serve as inadequate proxies for due diligence. Without mechanisms to incorporate the views of rights holders in its design and implementation and ensure access to remedies for rights holders, it is perhaps more accurately depicted (for now) as the next shiny thing that may be more a distraction than a substantive mechanism for pursuing real change and redress for labour exploitation in global supply chains. PubDate: 2022-06-03 DOI: 10.5204/ijcjsd.2398 Issue No:Vol. 11, No. 2 (2022)
Authors:Justine Coneybeer, Rowena Maguire Pages: 15 - 29 Abstract: Despite the existence of multiple living wage initiatives and methodologies for calculating a living wage, there has been limited improvement in increasing garment workers’ incomes. This paper applies Iris Marion Young’s responsibility for structural injustice theory to connect apparel brands and retailers as the actors with power, privilege and capacity to enact change to improve poverty wages. This paper critically analyses two living wage methodologies and three living wage initiatives, drawing upon Young’s theory to understand why progress on living wage has stagnated. The analysis also considers whether gender has been incorporated, finding that most methodologies and initiatives fail to adequately embed gendered considerations. Findings reveal that the most powerful actors in apparel global values chains (brands and retailers) evade responsibility through performative membership with initiatives that prioritise profit, ignore gendered considerations and require minimum changes from businesses as usual. PubDate: 2022-06-03 DOI: 10.5204/ijcjsd.2406 Issue No:Vol. 11, No. 2 (2022)
Authors:Alice Payne, Zoe Mellick Pages: 30 - 46 Abstract: Within global value chains, multi-stakeholder initiatives (MSIs) have become the chief means to address the environmental sustainability concerns rife throughout fibre, textile and garment production. MSIs include a wide array of non-governmental organisations, voluntary sustainability standards and reporting tools. However, MSIs can be critiqued as an incremental rather than transformative approach to environmental sustainability, firmly embedded within a green-growth paradigm. This article examines the limits and opportunities of MSIs in aiding a systemic transformation for sustainability within the fashion system. By analysing fashion-specific MSIs at two time points, 2017 and 2021, we identify that while MSI membership is growing and a degree of consolidation and harmonisation is occurring, environmental gains are offset by unrelenting growth in production. Drawing upon principles of degrowth, we propose that a scenario in which an MSI construct could have transformative power is one in which overproduction is explicitly addressed. PubDate: 2022-06-03 DOI: 10.5204/ijcjsd.2424 Issue No:Vol. 11, No. 2 (2022)
Authors:Harriette Richards Pages: 47 - 60 Abstract: This article investigates the role of the Australian Modern Slavery Act 2018 as a reporting mechanism aimed at preventing the use of forced labour in global supply chains. In the fashion industry, modern slavery legislation pursues the ambitions of activist movements that have long campaigned for increased knowledge about supply chain practices to improve the labour conditions of garment workers, especially for those in the Global South. In recent years, such campaigns against the entrenched opacity of the global fashion system have given rise to a transparency industry built on practices of auditing and supply chain management, including in relation to modern slavery legislation. This article analyses 10 modern slavery statements submitted to the online Modern Slavery Register by fashion brands operating in Australia in the 2019–2020 reporting period to explore how the Modern Slavery Act 2018 participates in colonial relations of power. It focuses on three aspects of the statements: factory reporting and third-party auditing, corporate grievance mechanisms, and risks associated with COVID-19. Finally, the article argues that while improved transparency can generate positive outcomes for workers, the reporting required by modern slavery legislation is often more concerned with providing assurances about labour standards to consumers and stakeholders in the Global North than with the needs or experiences of workers in the Global South. PubDate: 2022-06-03 DOI: 10.5204/ijcjsd.2378 Issue No:Vol. 11, No. 2 (2022)
Authors:Elizabeth Gachenga Pages: 61 - 73 Abstract: Recycling clothes is lauded as a sustainable textile waste management strategy. A significant percentage of recycled clothes are exported to the Global South as second-hand clothing. Increased exports result in the accumulation of second-hand clothing waste in these countries. The result is a shift in responsibility for textile waste from consuming nations in the Global North to ‘recycling’ nations in the Global South. However, this ‘recycling fallacy’ perpetuates a form of fashion injustice. Waste laws, founded on the ‘polluter pays principle’, are ineffective at addressing the second-hand clothing waste problem in receiving countries. Therefore, the circular economy framework is influencing the redesign of waste laws. The circular economy could redress the problem by revitalising the polluter pays principle and extended producer responsibility policies and embedding life cycle approaches. This paper explores this possibility, using examples from Kenya (a major importer of second-hand clothing) and the European Union (a key exporter of reused clothing with emerging circular economy regulatory frameworks). PubDate: 2022-06-03 DOI: 10.5204/ijcjsd.2351 Issue No:Vol. 11, No. 2 (2022)
Authors:Evelise Anicet Rüthschilling, Eloisa Artuso Pages: 74 - 86 Abstract: Brazil covers a large territory, and although only 15% of its population is distributed in rural areas (IBGE Educa 2015), rural dwellers take on the chief responsibility for conserving local biodiversity. This article uses empirical research with a qualitative approach to present four cases of consolidated communities working with Amazonian rubber, regenerative cotton, weaving and lacework. It shows how rural communities pursue solutions for sustainable livelihoods in their own place of origin through the production of raw materials and products for the fashion chain, ensuring food security, income generation, maintenance of local biomes and gender justice. Particularly, this study examines the role of women beyond their families in ensuring work equity and better income distribution. Design appears as a positive agent, transforming ancestral and artisanal culture and knowledge into product innovation with added value to ensure production viability as well as enhancing community wellbeing. PubDate: 2022-06-03 DOI: 10.5204/ijcjsd.2402 Issue No:Vol. 11, No. 2 (2022)
Authors:Alyce McGovern, Clementine Barnes Pages: 87 - 101 Abstract: The contemporary practice of ‘craftivism’—which uses crafts such as knitting, sewing and embroidery to draw attention to ‘issues of social, political and environmental justice’ (Fitzpatrick 2018: 3)—has its origins in centuries of radical craft work where women and marginalised peoples, in particular, have employed crafts to protest, take a stand or comment on issues that concern them. Recently, craftivist actions have targeted the fashion and textile industry in an effort to highlight and address some of the social and environmental impacts of the global fashion industry, from the throwaway culture of fast fashion through to the unethical pay and working conditions of ready-made garment workers. Drawing on examples of both individual and collective forms of craftivism, this paper explores the ways that craftivism is being deployed not only as a means by which to mobilise the ethical use, consumption and production of fashion and textiles across the globe but also to hold the fashion industry to account against key concerns highlighted by the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals. In canvassing these examples, the paper considers the utility of craftivism as a model for challenging the fashion industry to effect change. PubDate: 2022-06-03 DOI: 10.5204/ijcjsd.2352 Issue No:Vol. 11, No. 2 (2022)
Authors:Hilde Heim Pages: 102 - 115 Abstract: Marketing aims to influence consumers to buy more; however, buying more is at the very core of the fashion industry’s current malaise. A new system of marketing has arisen in the past decades that promises to offer an alternative solution: supporting the viability of brands while increasing awareness of social issues in the fashion industry and changing consumer behaviour for the better. The marketing of social justice issues or social marketing (SM) (not to be confused with social media marketing) aims to educate, influence and, ultimately, move the consumer to change their purchasing behaviour and make choices for good. Drawing on behavioural change theories and using case study methodology, this paper examines how, through crafting a desired position away from ‘product push’ and towards a social justice ‘pull’, fashion brands are experimenting with SM strategies that propose to transform buying behaviour. The findings indicate that while SM is an emerging marketing strategy for fashion brands, it results in an elevated perception of the brand and, ultimately, an increase in consumption. PubDate: 2022-06-03 DOI: 10.5204/ijcjsd.2405 Issue No:Vol. 11, No. 2 (2022)
Authors:Kathleen Horton , Paige Street , Erin O’Brien Pages: 116 - 128 Abstract: The consumer is an important political subject in addressing global social issues, especially in the fashion industry. Due to the complex, multi-jurisdictional nature of the problems created through global capitalism, a significant overhaul of the fashion industry is not easy to achieve; nor is it easy for consumers to choose to withdraw from these markets. Further, framing individual consumer responsibility is difficult, especially when considering how questions of obligation intersect with geographical hierarchies as well as questions of privilege. In this paper, we critique how responsibility is framed in contemporary fashion activism in relation to questions of gender. Using the organisation Fashion Revolution as a site of normative consumer activism, we highlight how two hashtag campaigns, #WhoMadeMyClothes and #LovedClothesLast, instrumentalise gender to engage consumers to act against injustice. Through our analysis, we question how calls to take up responsibility for fashion injustice intersect with profound questions about what women owe other women. PubDate: 2022-06-03 DOI: 10.5204/ijcjsd.2356 Issue No:Vol. 11, No. 2 (2022)
Authors:Monika Holgar Pages: 129 - 142 Abstract: With strong consensus around the need for holistic, systemic change to the dominant fashion paradigm across the Global North, this article aims to generate practical strategies for better engaging and supporting fashion consumers as one key stakeholder group. It critiques the prevailing discourse of ethical fashion consumption—narrowly focused on fast fashion consumption—as both unjust and considerably limiting the scope of broader consumer awareness and action. Wardrobe research facilitates rich empirical evidence of consumers’ ordinary clothing practices and can support more fair and helpful representations of fashion consumers and consumption. Proposing wardrobe research as a tool to create a more engaging and supportive discourse, the article considers how evidence from wardrobe research might enter circulation and extends to consider everyday wearers engaging in and sharing wardrobe research in ‘amateur’ forms. The article examines large public ‘garment storytelling’ projects as an example and proposes that such accessible and appealing wardrobe research–related tools could be further used and developed. PubDate: 2022-06-03 DOI: 10.5204/ijcjsd.2373 Issue No:Vol. 11, No. 2 (2022)
Authors:Clare Farmer Pages: 143 - 158 Abstract: As a response to alcohol-related disorderly behaviours, the use of exclusion has expanded steadily across Australian jurisdictions but with minimal analysis of its effects. Bans, from public or private locations, are typically imposed summarily and presumed to be a meaningful deterrent to future problematic behaviours. The formalisation of licensee banning powers has created a civilianised police-enforceable power to punish by exclusion. In Victoria, the legislative framing of licensee barring order provisions precludes formal monitoring of their use. This article reports findings from interviews conducted with recipients. The conceptual and situational value of barring orders are acknowledged, but their capacity to act as a tangible deterrent or effective agent for behaviour change is far from conclusive. Barring orders constitute a civilianised summary power, which currently operates without scrutiny or accountability. Implications for the operational legitimacy of barring powers emerge from this study, in addition to broader considerations with respect to compliance, enforcement, oversight, and the importance of developing and examining alcohol policies through a gendered lens. PubDate: 2022-06-03 DOI: 10.5204/ijcjsd.1562 Issue No:Vol. 11, No. 2 (2022)
Authors:Ausma Bernot Pages: 159 - 173 Abstract: Over the last two decades, the emerging Chinese Party-state has used commercial ties with North American and European providers of surveillance technologies to grow national prowess of public security, fostering a transnational state-corporate symbiosis. The exports of surveillance technologies from the Global North to China started in the late 1970s, and now Chinese technology companies are competing with and replacing those suppliers in the globalized neoliberal market. This research explores the two-way dynamic of China’s state and private surveillance capacity underscored by international companies’ profit-seeking behaviors and domestic technological and economic growth. Four case studies of companies from Canada, China, and the US are used to highlight the changing dynamics in the global circulation of surveillance technologies. Particular attention is paid to the cyclical nature of such technologies through which unresolved issues of global governance continue to emerge and, accordingly, support the growth of technology-powered authoritarianism worldwide. PubDate: 2022-06-03 DOI: 10.5204/ijcjsd.1908 Issue No:Vol. 11, No. 2 (2022)
Authors:Bjørn Kjetil Larsen, Karl Yngvar Dale, Atle Ødegård Pages: 174 - 190 Abstract: Reintegration after prison for prisoners with interlinked welfare needs has been one of the most challenging issues for decades in the criminal justice system. The WHO and the UN highlight the demand for well-functioning collaboration between professionals and welfare agencies handling these challenges. However, interprofessional collaboration has been an underdeveloped field of research and theory, especially concerning prisoners with substance abuse issues. The present study undertakes a scoping review of research on interprofessional collaboration in reintegration after prison for prisoners with substance abuse issues, particularly identifying factors that influence collaboration. Nineteen included studies from the USA, the U.K., Australia, and Norway show that relational and structural factors influence collaboration and that innovative projects are perceived as improving collaboration. A tentative conceptual model of factors that influence collaboration is presented and may serve as a basis for reflection and further development of a theoretical framework within the field of research. PubDate: 2022-06-03 DOI: 10.5204/ijcjsd.1951 Issue No:Vol. 11, No. 2 (2022)
Authors:Alison Hutchinson, Nathan Stephens-Griffin, Tanya Wyatt Pages: 191 - 209 Abstract: Wildlife faces a number of threats due to human activity, including overexploitation from excessive and/or illegal trade. The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) is the main international legal instrument to address such overexploitation. However, not all species threatened by excessive trade are protected by CITES, leading to criticism that it is an instrument for the preservation of exploitation as opposed to the protection of wildlife (Goyes and Sollund 2016). This article explores whether CITES classifications can be said to perpetuate speciesist thinking. We highlight which species are more likely to receive protection by analysing which species are listed and how some species move between the CITES Appendices and comparing this to the International Union for the Conservation of Nature’s (IUCN) classifications for traded wildlife. We find that a species’ market value, charisma, and survival status form a complex set of characteristics that lead (or not) to the continual trade of some species, even though they are facing extinction from human consumption. PubDate: 2022-06-03 DOI: 10.5204/ijcjsd.1945 Issue No:Vol. 11, No. 2 (2022)
Authors:Vincenzo Ruggiero Pages: 210 - 221 Abstract: The collapse of Greensill Capital, a company whose self-styled owner experimented with innovative supply-chain finance, led to parliamentary inquiries in the UK during the course of 2021. This paper tells the story of the collapse and analyses the justifications mobilised by the company’s owner, Lex Greensill, in defence of his acts. His exculpatory narratives contain classical components that characterise white-collar and financial crime, but also some innovative aspects that may prefigure the future development of these types of crimes. PubDate: 2022-06-03 DOI: 10.5204/ijcjsd.2019 Issue No:Vol. 11, No. 2 (2022)
Authors:Ekaterina Gladkova Pages: 222 - 236 Abstract: Meat production in its current shape is burdened with multiple environmental challenges. Technological solutions have been touted as a means of reconciliation of economic growth and environmental sustainability. In Northern Ireland, anaerobic digestion (AD) technology was presented as a solution for more sustainable animal waste management and greenhouse gas emission reduction in the context of the Going for Growth (GfG) agrifood strategy. AD sites were also eligible for the Renewable Obligation Certificates (ROCs) subsidy support scheme. While criminological engagement with the issues around food crime is yet inchoate, even less attention has been paid to the issue of the criminogenic nature of responses to food production harm. The paper fills this lacuna by discussing how an ostensibly positive initiative of incentivising AD through subsidy provision may have criminogenic potential: it may exacerbate environmental harm due to its ineffectiveness for dealing with ammonia emissions from animal waste, and create opportunities for deviance, such as breaches in planning regulation and subsidy fraud. PubDate: 2022-06-03 DOI: 10.5204/ijcjsd.1977 Issue No:Vol. 11, No. 2 (2022)
Authors:Leanne Weber Pages: 240 - 242 Abstract: Leanne Weber reviews Crime and Punishment in the Future Internet: Digital Frontier Technologies and Criminology in the Twenty-First Century PubDate: 2022-06-03 DOI: 10.5204/ijcjsd.2388 Issue No:Vol. 11, No. 2 (2022)
Authors:Justin R Ellis Pages: 243 - 246 Abstract: Justin R. Ellis reviews Place, race and politics: The anatomy of a law and order crisis PubDate: 2022-06-03 DOI: 10.5204/ijcjsd.2389 Issue No:Vol. 11, No. 2 (2022)
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