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- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 105: The Inhibition of Oxidative Stress-Mediated
Cell Apoptosis by the Caspase Inhibitor
(S)-3-((S)-2-(6-(2,3-dihydrobenzo[b][1,4]dioxin-6-yl)-1-oxoisoindolin-2-yl)butanamido)-4-oxo-5-(2,3,5,6-tetrafluorophenoxy)pentanoic
Acid in Human Dermal Papilla Cells
Authors: Bomi Park, Daeun Kim, Yurim Lee, Seihyun Choi, HeeDong Park, Sanghwa Lee, Jaesung Hwang
First page: 105
Abstract: Alopecia is traditionally viewed as androgen-dependent, but emerging evidence has implicated oxidative stress in the pathogenesis of hair loss. Current treatments for alopecia have limited efficacy, leading to the need for new therapies. Human dermal papilla cells (hDPCs) play a pivotal role in hair follicle (HF) development and hair growth regulation. In this study, we investigated the potential of (S)-3-((S)-2-(6-(2,3-dihydrobenzo[b][1,4]dioxin-6-yl)-1-oxoisoindolin-2-yl)butanamido)-4-oxo-5-(2,3,5,6 tetrafluorophenoxy) pentanoic acid (THPA), a pan-caspase inhibitor, to reduce ROS-induced cellular damage and apoptosis in hDPCs. Our study revealed that THPA effectively suppressed hydrogen peroxide-induced apoptosis while also attenuating activated caspase signaling. Additionally, THPA restored the down-regulated expression of β-catenin, a key mediator of the Wnt/β-catenin pathway, in hDPCs exposed to hydrogen peroxide. Furthermore, significant alterations in Akt/mTOR/p70S6K signaling were observed following THPA treatment. Notably, THPA treatment led to a reduction in the expression of Dickkopf-1 (DKK-1), an inhibitor of the Wnt/β-catenin pathway implicated in hair follicle regression. Moreover, THPA treatment decreased the expression of the cell senescence markers p21 and p16, suggesting a potential role in preserving hDPC function and delaying hair follicle regression. Collectively, our findings highlight the therapeutic potential of THPA in preventing hair loss by protecting hDPCs against oxidative stress damage.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-06-22
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040105
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 106: The Influence of Physical Characteristics
of Wet Wipe Fabrics on the Microbial Biomass Accumulation
Authors: Noa Ziklo, Idit Yuli, Maayan Bibi, Paul Salama
First page: 106
Abstract: The physicochemical properties of nonwoven wet wipe fabrics have a strong influence on the ability of microorganisms to attach and multiply, until a biofilm is formed. Cellulose-based fabrics, being biodegradable, represent a major contamination risk. In addition, having a hydrophilic nature, they provide a good platform for microorganisms attachment. To optimize biodegradable wet wipes antimicrobial quality, it is crucial to assess the impact of physicochemical properties, e.g., density, pore size, fiber diameter, contact angle and surface charge. Here, we investigated the physical characteristics of commonly used nonwoven fabrics from both synthetic (Polyethylene terephthalate, PET) and natural components (wood pulp and viscose), to evaluate their effect on microbial contamination. We found that the hydrophobicity of the fabric had varying influence on attachment, depending on the microbial strain. However, the geometry, as well as the fabric pore size greatly affected attachment regardless of the microbial strain, in which a larger pore size resulted in lower accumulation of microbial biomass. Our study gives insight into the characteristics of wet wipes that can affect the preservation efficacy and microbial contamination risk, in one of the biggest segments in the personal care industry.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-06-26
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040106
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 107: Extending the Physical Functionality of
Bioactive Blends of Astrocaryum Pulp and Kernel Oils from Guyana
Authors: Laziz Bouzidi, Shaveshwar Deonarine, Navindra Soodoo, R. Emery, Sanela Martic, Suresh Narine
First page: 107
Abstract: Natural lipids with nutritional or therapeutic benefits that also provide desired texture, melting and organoleptic appeal (mouthfeel, skin feel) are difficult to procure for the food and cosmetics industries. Natural Astrocaryum pulp oil (AVP) and kernel fat (AVK) from Guyana were blended without further modification to study the potential of extending the physical functionality of the blends beyond that of crude AVK and AVP. An evaluation of non-lipid components by ESI-MS indicated twenty-four (24) bioactive molecules, mainly carotenoids (90%), polyphenols (9%) and sterols (1%) in AVP, indicating important health and therapeutic benefits. Only trace-to-negligible amounts of these compounds were detected in AVK. The thermal transition phase behavior, solid fat content (SFC), microstructure and textural properties of five AVP/AVL blends were used to construct phase diagrams of the AVK/AVP binary system. Binary phase diagrams constructed from the cooling and heating DSC thermograms of the mixtures and description of the liquidus line indicated a mixing behavior close to ideal with a tendency for order, with no phase separation. Melting onsets, solid fat content and measurements of solid-like texture all predictively increased with increasing AVK content. The descriptive decay parameters obtained for SFC, crystal size, hardness, firmness and spreadability were similar and predictive and indicate the way the binary system structure approaches that of a liquid or a functional solid. The bioactive content of the blends was accurately calculated; the work provides a blueprint for the blending of AVP and AVK to deliver targeted bioactive content, stability, spreadability, texture, melting profile, organoleptic appeal and solid content. SFCs at 20 °C ranged from 9.1% to 39.1%, melting onset from −17.5 °C to 27.8 °C, hardness from 0.1 N to 3.5 N and spreadability from 3.3 N·s to 147.1 N·s; indicating a useful dynamic range of physical properties suitable for bioactive oils to bioactive butters.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-06-26
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040107
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 108: Examining How Diet and Lifestyle Influence
Skin Appearance through a Common Risk Factor: Excess Iron—A
Comprehensive Review
Authors: Tianshu Yang, Lungchi Chen, Xi Huang
First page: 108
Abstract: In the contemporary era, youthful and healthy skin is a pivotal determinant of beauty. Choices pertaining to one’s dietary and lifestyle practices wield substantial influence over skin health. Currently, the focal point of attention lies in strategies that delay skin aging and maintain skin quality. Remarkably, the skin, the body’s largest organ, serves as the primary defense barrier against external elements. Skin aging encompasses intrinsic and extrinsic categories, both susceptible to genetic, lifestyle, and environmental factors. Given the strides in science and technology, the pursuit of effective and safe interventions for skin aging assumes paramount importance. Thus, this review delves into the intricate relationship between diet, lifestyle, and skin aging, culminating in an exploration of the crucial role played by excess iron in this intricate nexus. Understanding these dynamics holds promise for advancing our knowledge of skincare and the quest for timeless vitality.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-06-27
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040108
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 109: Artificial Intelligence in Plastic Surgery:
Advancements, Applications, and Future
Authors: Tran Van Duong, Vu Pham Thao Vy, Truong Nguyen Khanh Hung
First page: 109
Abstract: Artificial intelligence (AI) is revolutionizing plastic surgery through its remarkable advancements in various domains such as image analysis, robotic assistance, predictive analytics, and augmented reality. Predictive analytics, powered by AI, harnesses patient data to predict surgical outcomes, minimize risks, and tailor treatment plans, thereby optimizing patient care and safety. Augmented reality and virtual reality technology are also reshaping the cosmetic surgery landscape, providing immersive experiences for preoperative imaging, intraoperative guidance, and advanced skills through simulation. Looking ahead, the future of AI in plastic surgery holds great promise, including personalized medicine, bioprinting of tissues and organs, and continuous learning through iterative improvement algorithms based on real-world surgical experience. However, amid these transformational advances, ethical considerations and regulatory frameworks must evolve to ensure the responsible deployment of AI, protect patient privacy, minimize errors and algorithmic deviation, and uphold standards of fairness and transparency. Our study aims to explore the role of AI in the field of plastic surgery with the potential for the future in mind. In summary, AI is considered a beacon of innovation in plastic surgery, enhancing surgical precision, enhancing patient outcomes, and heralding a future where interventions rely on personalized technology that will redefine the boundaries of aesthetic and regenerative medicine.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-06-27
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040109
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 110: Cosmetic Packaging: European Regulatory
Aspects and Sustainability
Authors: Silvia Morel, Giulia Mura, Marina Gallarate, Simona Sapino
First page: 110
Abstract: This review aims to provide a comprehensive overview of various aspects related to cosmetic product packaging, highlighting both advancements and challenges in the field. Initially, it offers a general description of the main materials used in cosmetic containers, including plastic, glass, paper, and aluminum. This is followed by an analysis of the existing EU legislative frameworks that govern cosmetic packaging, encompassing chemical, food, and waste regulations. The paper also discusses recent EU regulatory proposals and guidelines from trade associations aimed at enhancing the sustainability of cosmetic packaging materials. Additionally, the role of recycled and bio-based packaging materials in promoting environmental sustainability is analyzed. Overall, this review aims to provide insights for experts in the field on how to balance safety, functionality, and environmental responsibility in cosmetic packaging.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-06-30
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040110
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 111: Antioxidative Potentials of Eleutherine
bulbosa Bulb and Its Utilization in Topical Cosmetic Emulsion
Authors: Nattakan Panyachariwat, Ampa Jimtaisong, Nisakorn Saewan
First page: 111
Abstract: The Eleutherine bulbosa bulb has been reported as a potent antioxidant in food. This work aims to extract the E. bulbosa bulb for use as an antioxidative agent in cosmetics. Water, 95% ethanol (EtOH), and propylene glycol (PG), which are normally used in cosmetic formulation, were employed as green and sustainable extraction solvents. EtOH and PG displayed better candidacy to extract active components from E. bulbosa bulbs than using water, and the mixture of EtOH and PG (EtOH/PG) resulted in the extract with higher bioactive compounds and biological activities compared with using EtOH or PG. The total phenolic content of the EtOH/PG extract was 87.60 ± 2.00 mgGAE/mL which was about an 18–23% increase from when using single EtOH or PG (70.91 ± 2.30, 74.05 ± 0.67 mgGAE/mL). UHPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS/MS analysis showed that the E. bulbosa bulb extracted in EtOH/PG was composed of naphthalenes, naphthoquinones, anthraquinones, myricetin, quercetin, epicatechin, catechin, epigallocatechin, and their derivatives. The ethanolic crude extract exhibited anti-elastase and anti-collagenase activity with the IC50 of 7.76 ± 0.35 and 0.53 ± 0.23 mg/mL, respectively, and was non-cytotoxic to human dermal fibroblast cells at 0.0001–1 mg/mL. The emulsion cream containing 2%(w/w) E. bulbosa bulb concentrated extract was found cosmetically stable after a one-month stability test under 4 °C, ambient temperature (30–35 °C), 45 °C, fluorescent light, and daylight. However, exposure to sunlight during daytime caused changes in the emulsion’s color with ΔE* of 3.85 ± 0.08, and at 45 °C caused the 12% decrease in DPPH activity of emulsion. The finding of this work heightens the antioxidative and safety potentials of the E. bulbosa bulb in cosmetic preparations.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-07-06
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040111
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 112: High-Tech Sustainable Beauty: Exploring
Nanotechnology for the Development of Cosmetics Using Plant and Animal
By-Products
Authors: Gabriela Braga Barros Nhani, Leonardo Delello Di Filippo, Geanne Aparecida de Paula, Vitoria Ribeiro Mantovanelli, Patricia Pereira da Fonseca, Felipe Mota Tashiro, Diana Coêlho Monteiro, Bruno Fonseca-Santos, Jonatas L. Duarte, Marlus Chorilli
First page: 112
Abstract: In a world increasingly focused on eco-conscious living, the cosmetic industry is actively adopting nanotechnology to transform plant and animal by-products into high-value beauty products. This comprehensive review explores the innovative and sustainable approaches for extracting and utilizing bioactive compounds from these by-products. The application of nanocarrier systems is highlighted for their role in enhancing the delivery efficacy and safety of these ingredients in skincare and beauty products. Consumer demand and environmental concerns drive the shift towards natural and sustainable cosmetic products. Traditional cosmetic production often involves significant ecological impacts, prompting the industry to seek greener alternatives. This review addresses the critical need for sustainable beauty solutions that align with global sustainability goals, particularly those outlined in the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development. The review provides valuable insights into current trends and future directions in sustainable cosmetics by focusing on nanotechnology and by-products. The review uniquely integrates nanotechnology with sustainability practices in the cosmetic industry. It details the benefits of using nanocarriers to improve the stability, bioavailability, and efficacy of bioactive compounds derived from natural waste. This intersection of high-tech methodologies and sustainability offers a novel perspective on cosmetic innovation. Future research should focus on overcoming the technical, regulatory, and economic challenges of scaling up nanotechnology applications. Investigations should include the development of transparent supply chains, standardization methods for characterizing nanoparticles, and comprehensive lifecycle assessments to ensure environmental safety. Additionally, fostering collaboration between scientific research, industry practices, and consumer education is vital for advancing sustainable practices. This review contributes to the broader discourse on sustainable beauty by presenting a clear pathway for integrating these innovative approaches. It ensures that future cosmetic products meet consumer expectations for efficacy and safety and promote environmental stewardship and a circular economy, ultimately benefiting both the skin and the planet.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-07-06
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040112
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 113: Strategic Approaches in Formulation
Development for Atopic Dermatitis
Authors: Alberto Keidi Kurebayashi, Khanh Phan, Ayyah Abdoh, Newton Andreo-Filho, Patricia Santos Lopes, Yousuf Mohammed, Vania Rodrigues Leite-Silva
First page: 113
Abstract: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common chronic skin disease, significantly impacting patients’ quality of life. One of the most effective management approaches for AD involves addressing the defective skin barrier by urging AD patients to regularly use suitable moisturizers. Therapeutic moisturizers designed for AD are precisely formulated with ingredients targeting critical and often early symptoms of AD (e.g., itch, inflammation, damaged skin barrier). Dermo-cosmetic products, which are rich in moisturizing and emollient agents contributing to recovery as well as strengthening the skin barrier, have proven to be excellent adjuncts in AD treatment. There are various galenic forms of dermo-cosmetics, such as lotions, gels, creams, foams, and sprays, requiring a rationale in choosing ingredients for the product formulation and development. In addition, the role of moisturizer and emollient therapy to address skin dryness linked to dermatological conditions is hugely dependent on varying chemistry and morphology in the deeper regions of the skin. There are also limits to the efficacy of treatments, corticosteroid side effects, and product sensory appeal, which may decrease patient acceptance and compliance. The objective of this review is thus to offer a comprehensive overview of the critical aspects involved in the development of cosmetic vehicles, as well as a detailed examination of the primary ingredients used in formulations for AD.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-07-09
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040113
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 114: Itch-Relieving Cosmetics
Authors: Ju Hee Han, Hei Sung Kim
First page: 114
Abstract: This review aims to explore the evolving role of cosmetics in alleviating itch, transcending their traditional aesthetic function. With a focus on formulations enriched with natural oils and other bioactive components, we examine the efficacy and safety of various cosmetic ingredients designed to control itch. Highlighted are ingredients such as colloidal oatmeal, postbiotics, menthol, peppermint, cryosim-1, capsaicin, asivatrep, polidocanol, pramoxine hydrocholoride, and palmitoylethanolamide, which are recognized to reduce itch. Special attention is also given to phytochemicals that can modulate the Janus kinase/signal transducer and activator of transcription signaling pathway and carry the potential as an itch-relieving cosmetic ingredient. This review encompasses clinical studies that verify the itch relieving effect of these cosmetic ingredients. By integrating current scientific evidence, we aim to shed light on the potential of anti-itch cosmetics as an adjunct to standard itch treatment, thereby broadening our understanding of their role in dermatological care.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-07-09
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040114
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 115: A Spotlight on the Potential of Microscopic
Motile Algae as Novel Sources for Modern Cosmetic Products
Authors: Maya Stoyneva-Gärtner, Blagoy Uzunov, Georg Gärtner
First page: 115
Abstract: The recognition and use of algae in the very trend-driven cosmetic industry is progressively increasing. Up to now, the main focus was on large seaweeds and a limited number of microalgae. However, motile microalgae, flagellates, remain underscored in this aspect, although some of them are utilized commercially. Flagellates from different taxonomic groups occupy various habitats and contain bioactive high-value multifunctional compounds, some of which are novel. Moreover, they may simultaneously produce different substances, which together with the development of downstream processing technologies, makes them a promising source for modern biotechnology. The present review covers data on 411 strains, 251 species from 110 genera from 6 phyla, and is oriented generally towards less explored flagellates. It demonstrates their great potential as bearers of interesting novel compounds that can be beneficially applied in modern cosmetics. Safety aspects of both sources and products are also discussed. Considering the gaps in the knowledge, the necessity to expand the research on both well-known and yet unexplored microalgae is shown, encouraging the development of upstreaming processes, including phycoprospecting. Last but not least, this paper outlines the role of living culture collections and of using good taxonomic expertise before running the biochemical tests, cultivation, and bioengineering experiments.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-07-09
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040115
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 116: Plant Essential Oil Nanoemulgel as a
Cosmeceutical Ingredient: A Review
Authors: Xing Fui Yap, Seow Hoon Saw, Vuanghao Lim, Chin Xuan Tan
First page: 116
Abstract: Essential oils (EOs) are concentrated, hydrophobic volatile compounds derived from different parts of plants. They are recognized for their diverse and versatile functional properties. Approximately 90% of EOs are administered via topical or transdermal routes. However, EOs are susceptible to oxidation, and their high volatility often poses a challenge to the transdermal delivery of their bioactive constituents. Additionally, the direct application of pure EOs on the skin may result in irritating effects. Hence, various novel carrier systems have been explored for the topical application of EOs. Among these, nanoemulgel has received particular attention from the cosmeceutical industry. It is a hybrid technology combining nanoemulsion and a gelling phase, which can enhance the bioadhesivity of EOs, at the same time minimizing their irritating effects. This review summarizes the methods of EO extraction, steps and factors influencing the preparation of EO nanoemulgel, and characterization parameters for nanoemulgel studies. The potential cosmeceutical applications of EO nanoemulgels as an anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, and penetration enhancer are also compiled and discussed.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-07-10
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040116
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 117: Preliminary Experience with a Cleansing
Mousse and a Non-Steroidal Emulsion for the Prevention and Treatment of
Acute Radiation Dermatitis in Breast Cancer Patients Undergoing Adjuvant
Radiotherapy
Authors: Anna Viola, Emanuele Martorana, Valentina Zagardo, Gianluca Ferini
First page: 117
Abstract: Background: Radiation dermatitis (RD) is the most frequent side effect in patients undergoing adjuvant radiotherapy (RT) for breast cancer. Despite the skin-sparing benefits of new RT techniques, most patients develop RD. There is currently no standard treatment to prevent and soothe RD, which is generally managed with emollients, moisturizers, or corticosteroids. We conducted a prospective observational study to evaluate the rate and grade of RD with the application of a cleansing mousse and a non-steroidal emulsion during the adjuvant RT program in patients with breast cancer submitted to surgery. Materials and Methods: A cleansing mousse containing vegetable glycerin (12%), phytoextract of chamomile (0.5%), yarrow phytoextract (0.5%), sweet almond (0.1%), Oenothera oil (0.1%), rice protein hydrolyzate (0.1%), and an emulsion containing micronized zinc oxide (3.7%), rapeseed phytosterols (1.7%), aloe (0.5%), 18-beta glycyrrhetinic acid (0.5%), alpha bisabolol (0.5%), Zanthalene (0.5%) was offered to breast cancer patients undergoing adjuvant RT to prevent the onset of RD and mitigate its severity. These specific ingredients were selected for their well-known anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and moisturizing properties. Skin toxicities were recorded photographically and graded according to the RTOG scoring system. Results: From March 2023 to July 2023, a total of 24 patients with a median age of 59 years (range 42–75) were enrolled. Halfway through the RT treatment, 20 patients (83.3%) had G0 skin toxicity, three (12.5%) G1, one (4.2%) G2. None showed G3–G4 toxicity. At the end of RT, seven patients (29.2%) exhibited G0 skin toxicity, 14 (58.3%) G1, two (8.3%) G2, one (4.2%) G3. No patient developed G4 toxicity. Fifteen days after the end of RT, 13 patients (54.2%) had G0 skin toxicity, 10 (41.1%) G1, one (4.2%) G2, with none showing G3–G4 toxicity. Conclusions: Our data suggest that the tested topicals might be an effective option for preventing and alleviating RD. Further prospective randomized studies are needed to confirm our findings.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-07-11
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040117
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 118: Sustainable Dynamic Wrinkle Efficacy:
Non-Invasive Peptides as the Future of Botox Alternatives
Authors: Trang Thi Minh Nguyen, Eun-Ji Yi, Xiangji Jin, Qiwen Zheng, Se-Jig Park, Gyeong-Seon Yi, Su-Jin Yang, Tae-Hoo Yi
First page: 118
Abstract: Dynamic wrinkle reduction continues to challenge aesthetic dermatology, predominantly addressed through Botulinumtoxin (Botox) injections. Despite Botox’s robust efficacy with up to an 80% reduction in wrinkle visibility within just one week, its invasive administration and specific mechanism of soluble N-ethylmaleimide-sensitive factor attachment protein receptor (SNARE) complex inhibition prompt the exploration of safer, non-invasive alternatives. This review critically assesses recent innovations in non-invasive effects, with a focus on peptides and botanical extracts that exhibit a diverse array of mechanisms including SNARE complex inhibition, modulation of calcium and sodium channels, and interactions with acetylcholine receptors, contributing to their effectiveness in muscle relaxation on dynamic wrinkle approaches. Noteworthy peptides such as Argireline and SYN-Ake replicate the neuromodulatory effects of Botox, achieving up to a 52% reduction in wrinkles within four weeks without injections. Moreover, botanical extracts meet the rising demand for clean beauty solutions by enhancing skin elasticity and health through gentle yet potent mechanisms. However, the main concern with peptides is their low absorption rate, with only six clinical validations regarding Botox-like peptide anti-wrinkle efficacy available. These advancements not only deepen our understanding of cosmetic dermatology but also significantly influence market dynamics and consumer behavior, underscoring their pivotal role in redefining the future landscape of anti-aging effects.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-07-11
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040118
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 119: The Effect of an Oral Probiotic Mixture on
Clinical Evolution and the Gut and Skin Microbiome in Patients with
Alopecia Areata: A Randomized Clinical Trial
Authors: María R. Navarro-Belmonte, Ángel Aguado-García, Pedro Sánchez-Pellicer, Eva Núñez-Delegido, Laura Navarro-Moratalla, María Martínez-Villaescusa, Alejandro García-Navarro, Vicente Navarro-López
First page: 119
Abstract: (1) Background: Given the autoimmune nature of Alopecia Areata (AA) and the immunomodulatory properties of probiotics, this trial was conducted to evaluate the efficacy of a probiotic mixture, consisting of Lactobacillus rhamnosus and Bifidobacterium longum strains, as an adjuvant treatment in a group of AA patients. (2) Method: This study was a 24-week, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial. Twenty-six patients with AA were included in this study, and their clinical progression, along with changes in gut and skin microbiota, were analyzed. (3) Results: A higher proportion of AA patients treated with the probiotic formula showed improvement compared to the placebo group, based on both the reduction in the number of AA plaques (56% vs. 30%) and the affected scalp surface area (45% vs. 20%). For “activity”, “inactivity”, and “regrowth”, an improvement in 55%, 67%, and 55% of patients was, respectively, observed in the probiotic group, compared to 50%, 40%, and 30% in the placebo group. No changes were observed in the gut microbiota during the intervention period. Regarding skin microbiota, changes were detected in the probiotic group, with reductions in characteristic genera during the study. (4) Conclusions: To our knowledge, this is the first clinical trial assessing the efficacy of a probiotic product in patients with AA. This probiotic mixture in a routine clinical practice setting appears to improve the course of patients. In addition, the skin microbiota of scalp lesions was modified using the probiotic treatment.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-07-13
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040119
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 120: Optimization of Solid Lipid Nanoparticle
Formulation for Cosmetic Application Using Design of Experiments, PART II:
Physical Characterization and In Vitro Skin Permeation for Sesamol Skin
Delivery
Authors: Margot Cassayre, Auriane Oline, Caroline Orneto, Emmanuel Wafo, Lydia Abou, Alexandre Altié, Magalie Claeys-Bruno, Christophe Sauzet, Philippe Piccerelle
First page: 120
Abstract: Our research focuses on evaluating the preliminary stability of solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) in order to identify an optimal formulation for studying the skin penetration of SLNs loaded with sesamol, with a view to developing potential cosmetic applications. For this study, SLNs were prepared with varying lipid and surfactant compositions and produced through homogenization and ultrasonication. The particle size (PS), polydispersity index (PDI), zeta potential (ZP), and encapsulation efficiency (EE) were analyzed for the different formulations. We identified OP2Se as the optimal formulation for skin penetration assessment due to its stable PS, PDI, ZP, and EE over time, with a Turbiscan Stability Index (TSI) below 1 after a month, indicating favorable stability conditions. The in vitro skin permeation study compared sesamol-loaded SLNs with a control sesamol hydrogel, revealing controlled release characteristics ideal for localized skin effects without significant bloodstream penetration, attributed to the SLNs’ 200 nm particle size. Further exploration could enhance skin retention and targeting, potentially extending penetration studies and reducing particle size to improve accumulation in hair follicles. Exploring SLN applications beyond sesamol, such as incorporating mineral filters for suncare, offers promising avenues, underscoring SLNs’ versatility in cosmetic formulations and skincare applications.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-07-15
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040120
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 121: Regenerative Cosmetics: Skin Tissue
Engineering for Anti-Aging, Repair, and Hair Restoration
Authors: Paula Pleguezuelos-Beltrán, Sara Herráiz-Gil, Daniel Martínez-Moreno, Iria Medraño-Fernandez, Carlos León, Sara Guerrero-Aspizua
First page: 121
Abstract: The quest for youthful, healthy skin and full, vibrant hair has long been a driving force in the dermocosmetics field. However, traditional approaches often struggle to address the underlying causes of aging, damage, and hair loss. Regenerative cosmetics powered by skin tissue engineering offer a transformative alternative. This review explores the emerging field of using engineered skin tissues for cosmetic purposes, focusing specifically on their potential for anti-aging, repair, and hair restoration applications. We discuss how these technologies aim to rejuvenate aging skin by promoting collagen production, reducing wrinkles, and improving overall skin function. Additionally, the use of engineered skin for wound healing and scar reduction is examined, highlighting their potential to improve the appearance and functionality of damaged skin. Finally, we advance the exciting prospects of utilizing skin tissue engineering techniques to regenerate hair follicles, potentially offering solutions for hair loss and promoting denser hair growth.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-07-15
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040121
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 122: Cosmetic Efficacy of the Topical Probiotic
Micrococcus luteus Q24 in Healthy Human Adults
Authors: Isabella J. McLoughlin, Abigail L. Voss, John D. F. Hale, Rohit Jain
First page: 122
Abstract: Probiotics in cosmetics represent a new and burgeoning area of research, attracting attention from cosmetic manufacturers and customers looking for natural or additional alternatives in their skincare regimens. Probiotics not only promote beneficial microbiomes to improve skin health but can also modulate the visual, topographical, and mechanical attributes to improve skin quality. This study was conducted in healthy adults to determine the effect of direct skin application of a topical serum formulation containing the live probiotic Micrococcus luteus Q24 on several key cosmetic skin quality parameters and its beneficial impact on the modulation of the skin microbiome. Quantitative changes in various skin parameters were measured using a skin analyser device and skin swabs were analysed using whole-genome sequencing to monitor microbial diversity and levels of probiotic colonization. Compared to the baseline, significant reductions in the pores, spots, wrinkles, and impurities scores, and an increase of 101% in the hydration score were observed. Additionally, 45–80% of participants showed a decrease in pores, spots, wrinkles, and impurities and 90% of participants showed an increase in hydration after 25 days of probiotic serum application. The WGS analysis of the skin swab samples showed a significant increase in the relative abundance of M. luteus Q24. The results from this study indicate that topical application of a serum containing the probiotic M. luteus Q24 offers the benefit of improving skin health quality.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-07-18
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040122
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 123: Effects of Lipid Phase Content on the
Technological and Sensory Properties of O/W Emulsions Containing
Bemotrizinol-Loaded Nanostructured Lipid Carriers
Authors: Santonocito, Puglia, Montenegro
First page: 123
Abstract: Different lipid phase ratios (12, 14, and 16% w/w) were assessed for their ability to affect the technological and sensory properties of O/W emulsions in which bemotrizinol (BMTZ), a broad-spectrum sunscreen agent, was incorporated free or loaded into nanostructured lipid nanocarriers (NLC) to reduce its release from the vehicle and, hence, its skin permeation. The following technological properties were evaluated in vitro: spreadability, viscosity, pH, occlusion factor, BMTZ release, and sun protection factor (SPF). Sensory attributes were assessed by panelists in three different phases: before/during pick-up, rub-in, and after application. Raising the lipid phase ratio led to an increase in viscosity (from 8017 ± 143 cPs to 16,444 ± 770 cPs) and to a corresponding decrease in spreadability (from 9.35 ± 0.21 cm to 7.50 ± 0.10 cm), while the incorporation of BMTZ-loaded NLC determined a decrease in the occlusion factor (from 47.75 ± 1.16 to 25.91 ± 1.57) and an increase in SPF (from 6% for formulations containing 12% lipid phase to 15% for formulations containing 16% lipid phase). No BMTZ release was observed from all emulsions. Sensory attributes were mainly affected by the lipid phase ratio. These results suggest that the lipid phase ratio and BMTZ incorporation into NLC could contribute to determining the technological and sensory properties of O/W emulsions.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-07-19
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040123
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 124: In Vitro Toxicity Evaluation of Some Plant
Extracts and Their Potential Application in Xerosis cutis
Authors: Adelina Ghica, Mariana Luiza Tănase, Cristina Mariana Niculițe, Anca Tocilă, Liliana Popescu, Emanuela Alice Luță, Octavian Tudorel Olaru, Violeta Popovici, Teodora Dalila Balaci, Ligia Elena Duțu, Rica Boscencu, Cerasela Elena Gîrd
First page: 124
Abstract: Xerosis cutis represents one of the most common dermatological diagnoses, which, when untreated, can be the trigger for open wounds, infections, and other skin diseases. Plant extracts are a valuable option for long-term treatments for xerosis due to their phytocompounds, especially polyphenols, flavonoids, triterpenes, and polysaccharides, with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, moisturizing, and reparatory effects. Active substances have different mechanisms; therefore, evaluating the effects on the cells can be a key indicator, providing valuable information in terms of both cytotoxicity and efficacy. The in vitro and in vivo toxicity tests performed for Betulae extractum, Liquiritiae extractum, and Avenae extractum highlighted potential toxic effects at higher concentrations in a dose-dependent relationship, but at lower levels they can be considered safe (12.5 µg/mL for birch and licorice extracts, 50 µg/mL for oat extract). Concerning the re-epithelialization process, the results revealed that all three dry extracts effectively stimulate skin cell migration, highlighting a potential anti-inflammatory effect by increasing the cell migration rate in conditions of induced inflammation associated with oxidative stress. Among the tested concentrations with a potential contribution to wound healing, the following standout: are birch bark extract 3 μg/mL, licorice root extract 7.5 µg/mL, and oat herb (harvested before flowering) extract 7.5 µg/mL.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-07-21
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040124
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 125: The Frequency Ranking of Occurrence of
Individual Ingredients in Hair Care Cosmetics Available on the Polish
Market
Authors: Justyna Żwawiak, Joanna Walentkowska, Lucjusz Zaprutko, Anna Pawełczyk
First page: 125
Abstract: The Polish market of cosmetics is highly rich in different types of hair care preparations. A great number of Polish and foreign cosmetic companies and brands mean that finding care products ideal for a given person should be trouble-free. Unfortunately, a wide selection is both an advantage and a problem when a customer is doubtful about how a given cosmetic can work and what an individual’s hair really needs. Reading the composition of cosmetics, the potential user can recognize the needs of their skin or hair, which affects taking more conscious care and choosing the right cosmetics with more attention. This article assesses which ingredients and types of ingredients are present in the largest number of preparations and in the highest positions in the composition. This is a comparison of ingredients present in the largest amounts between four groups of hair cosmetics: care products with washing properties (shampoos), care products without washing properties (conditioners), preparations that are aqueous solutions (water cosmetics), and preparations that are not aqueous solutions (waterless cosmetics). It was revealed that the vast majority of all high-ranking ingredients are substances responsible for the functionality of hair cosmetics: surfactants, rheology regulators, substances responsible for foaming properties, emulsifiers, and solvents. The huge number of substances that can be used in hair products imposes the fact that the ingredients of the highest rank will be substances with many applications and, at the same time, are those that form the base of the cosmetic.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-07-22
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040125
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 126: Harnessing the Potential of Helinus
integrifolius in Cosmeceutical Research: Toward Sustainable Natural
Cosmetics
Authors: Hlalanathi Y. Gwanya, Afika-Amazizi N. Mbuyiswa, Ompelege J. Phokwe, Nomagugu Gxaba, Madira C. Manganyi
First page: 126
Abstract: The growing demand for natural and sustainable ingredients in cosmetic formulations has driven scientists to explore a wide range of botanical resources. Helinus integrifolius, a lesser-known botanical entity, has recently emerged as a formidable contender in this field. This review explores the possibility of incorporating Helinus integrifolius in the cosmetics industry, synthesizing data from the literature on pharmacological, botanical, and cosmetic research. Additionally, this highlights the versatility and multipurpose nature of this botanical resource in cosmetic applications. Furthermore, concerns regarding the safety of contemporary cosmetic products, formulation compatibility, and regulatory aspects are addressed to accelerate its integration into cosmetic products. Ultimately, this review highlights the untapped potential of Helinus integrifolius as a treasured resource for the cosmetics industry, emphasizing its ability to meet the growing consumer demand for eco-friendly, effective, and naturally inspired cosmetic solutions. Through thorough exploration and analysis, this paper aims to stimulate further research and development initiatives aimed at harnessing the cosmetic capabilities of Helinus integrifolius, thus contributing to the advancement of innovation in natural cosmetics.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-07-24
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040126
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 127: Unwanted Skin Reactions to Acrylates: An
Update
Authors: Liborija Lugović-Mihić, Eva Filija, Vanja Varga, Lana Premuž, Ena Parać, Renata Tomašević, Ema Barac, Bruno Špiljak
First page: 127
Abstract: Acrylates and methacrylates, though common in a wide variety of products, especially in the dental industry, can cause adverse skin reactions. These compounds, including 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, triethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and bisphenol A-glycidyl methacrylate, are strong contact irritants or allergens. Found in dental prostheses, composite resins, dentin bonding materials, and glass ionomers, they pose a higher risk of exposure for dental personnel. Clinically, acrylate allergies manifest as facial rashes, eczema with cracked skin on fingers (pulpitis), nail dystrophy, and periungual dermatitis. Recently, however, the highest frequency of allergic reactions to acrylates has been observed in the beauty industry due to increased use in artificial nails, eyelashes, and hair extensions. This has led to greater sensitization. Acrylates are also used in medical applications such as bone cement for orthopedic endoprostheses, soft contact lenses, hearing aids, histological preparations, and wound dressings, which can also cause allergic reactions. For example, acrylates in surgical glue can cause severe dermatitis, and diabetic medical devices are also potential sources of allergic contact dermatitis. Given the extensive use and prolonged skin contact of products containing acrylates and methacrylates, this review aims to present current knowledge from the literature on reactions to these compounds across different industries.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-07-25
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040127
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 128: Apigenin and Phloretin Combination for Skin
Aging and Hyperpigmentation Regulation
Authors: Alfredo Martínez-Gutiérrez, Javier Sendros, Teresa Noya, Mari Carmen González
First page: 128
Abstract: Melasma is a pathology with multifactorial causes that results in hyperpigmentation of sun-exposed areas, particularly facial skin. New treatments targeting the different factors regulating this condition need to be effective with and have limited adverse effects. Here, we describe a novel combination of two natural compounds (apigenin and phloretin) that has synergistic effects regulating melanogenesis in vitro. Both compounds inhibit Wnt-stimulated melanogenesis and induce autophagy in melanocytes. Apigenin induces DKK1, a Wnt pathway inhibitor, and reduces VEGF, a melanogenesis and proangiogenic factor, in fibroblasts. Moreover, apigenin induces miR-675, a melanogenesis inhibitor miRNA that is reduced in melasma skin in melanocytes. Both compounds showed senomorphic effects by regulating extracellular-matrix-related genes in senescent fibroblasts. Topical application of the compounds also showed significant melanin reduction in a reconstructed human epidermis after 7 days. Thus, the combination of apigenin and phloretin shows promising results as an effective topical treatment of skin hyperpigmentation conditions.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-07-26
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040128
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 129: Design, Development, and In Vivo Testing of
the Hydrating Effect and pH Maintenance a Cosmetic Formulation
Incorporating Oils and an Extract from Peruvian Biodiversity
Authors: Jorge Huaman, Lourdes Victoria-Tinoco, Jorge Rojas, Ana María Muñoz, Patricia Lozada
First page: 129
Abstract: Vegetable oils and extracts have been used from ancient times for skin care. The aim of this study was to design and evaluate the physicochemical, organoleptic, and microbiological characteristics and the instrumental efficacy in vivo of a cosmetic formula named “ASC Cream”, containing sangre de grado resin extract (Croton lechleri) and vegetable oils obtained from moriche palm (Mauritia flexuosa L.), goldenberry (Physalis peruviana), super sacha peanut (Plukenetia huayllabambana sp. nov.), and sacha peanut (Plukenetia volubilis L.). Instrumental efficacy, skin hydration and skin pH were tested in vivo in 24 healthy female volunteers between 40 and 65 years old, using non-invasive skin bioengineering equipment from Courage + Khazaka Electronics, both in the short term (30 min, 1 h and 3 h) and long term (14 and 28 days). The main findings were increased immediate hydration (132.4%) and long-term hydration (143.6%), showing a statistically significant average improvement (p < 0.05) without altering the skin pH. In conclusion, a balanced combination of the extract and oils significantly increases hydration levels while maintaining skin pH.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-07-26
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040129
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 130: Macroscopic and Histological Effects of
Polycaprolactone Dermal Filler in the Orofacial Region: A Study in Rats
Authors: Ana Caroline Bitencourt da Silva, Márcia Rodrigues Payeras, Valesca Sander Koth, Karen Cherubini, Fernanda Gonçalves Salum
First page: 130
Abstract: The objective of our study was to evaluate early and late macroscopic and histological changes associated with the use of polycaprolactone dermal filler (PCL) in the orofacial region. Forty-eight female Wistar rats were divided into the PCL group and the control group. The material was applied to the ventral tongue and submandibular region, and the animals were euthanized at three time points—24 h, and 30 and 90 days. In the PCL group, yellowish nodules were observed on the tongue at all experimental time points. At the 24 h mark, the histological analysis revealed the presence of the PCL and a predominance of lymphocytes, plasma cells, and neutrophils. At 30 and 90 days, macrophages and multinucleated giant cells predominated around the PCL spheres. Collagen density in the dermis was higher in the PCL group when compared to the control at 30 and 90 days. In the submandibular glands, an inflammatory process similar to that observed at other sites was noted, with no alterations in acinar or ductal morphology. The results of this study highlight the effectiveness of PCL as a collagen biostimulator. Nevertheless, the development of nodular lesions on the tongue signals the potential risk of complications in mobile anatomical structures.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-07-31
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040130
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 131: Insights on the In Vitro Wound Healing
Effects of Sedum telephium L. Leaf Juice
Authors: Giorgio Cappellucci, Alessia Paganelli, Pier Luca Ceccarelli, Elisabetta Miraldi, Marco Biagi
First page: 131
Abstract: Chronic wounds remain a significant clinical challenge, necessitating the exploration of novel therapeutic agents. Sedum telephium L. (syn. Hylotelephium telephium (L.) H. Ohba) fresh leaf juice, known for its traditional medicinal uses, was evaluated to assess its efficacy and its mechanism in promoting wound healing in vitro. Fresh leaves were collected and processed to obtain the juice, which was analyzed for polyphenols, flavonoids, polysaccharides, and proteins content. Key bioactive compounds were identified, including complex polysaccharides (2.47%), proteins (0.16%) and kaempferol and quercetin tri- di- and mono-glycosides, 0.04%, expressed as quercetin equivalent. The juice and its polysaccharidic fraction were tested on human keratinocytes (HaCaT) and fibroblasts (HFF-1) to assess cell viability, wound closure, and the production of growth factors and pro-collagen I. Our results indicated that the whole juice significantly enhanced wound closure in both cell types: +33% in keratinocytes compared to control, at 24 h, with a marked increase in fibroblast growth factor (FGF) (+21% compared to control) and LAP(TGF-β1) (+60% compared to control) and +30% in fibroblasts compared to control at 24 h, without a significant upregulation of pro-collagen I expression. The polysaccharidic fraction alone showed limited efficacy (no efficacy in keratinocytes and +20% in wound closure compared to control at 24 h in fibroblast), emphasizing the importance of the complete phytocomplex. These findings suggest that Sedum telephium L. represents a promising candidate in the setting of skin regeneration and repair.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-08-01
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040131
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 132: Holobiont Rebalancing by a Natural Gentian
Extract on a Skin Dehydration Model
Authors: Lauriane N. Roux, Assia Dreux-Zigha, Célia Rey, Carine Boutot, Yoan Laurent, Sercan Beytur, Isabelle Metton, Jean-Daniel Abraham, Jean-Yves Berthon
First page: 132
Abstract: Human skin homeostasis is partly maintained by a complex microscopic ecosystem known as the microbiota. Together, the skin host and microbiota form a synergistic evolutionary unit referred to as ‘skin holobiont’, which can be modulated by various stresses. By extracting organic wild yellow gentian roots enhanced through fermentation of a rare and resistant bacterium, Sphingomonas faeni, a cosmetic active ingredient was developed to rebalance the holobiont functions as well as hydric and lipidic skin content. Indeed, gentian-fermented extract (GFE) boosts hyaluronic acid (HA) biosynthesis in vitro, stimulates the HA receptor, CD44, and allows water storage and retention through its signaling cascade by epidermal reinforcement. Importantly, GFE also increases lipid synthesis by +147% in vitro, which was confirmed clinically on volunteers with dehydrated and dry skin who presented an increase in hydration and skin surface lipids after 28 days of treatment. Furthermore, a metaproteomic study highlighted that there is a slow-down of skin barrier and antioxidant proteins from both human and microbial origins, with age and dehydration, that can be reversed by GFE after 56 days. In conclusion, acting on the HA metabolism and specific microbiota species, GFE rebalances the skin holobiont for a reinforced and rehydrated skin with optimal lipid content.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-08-01
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040132
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 133: Positive Effect of Peptides Obtained from
Nile Tilapia (Oreochromis niloticus) on Inflammation Regulation and Wound
Healing
Authors: Robert Rosostolato Cardoso, Mariáurea Matias Sarandy, Leandro Licursi de Oliveira, Sérgio Luis Pinto da Matta, Romulo Dias Novaes, Reggiani Vilela Gonçalves
First page: 133
Abstract: This study investigated the effect of natural compounds from Nile tilapia (Oreochromis niloticus) skin on wound healing in IL-10 knockout mice. The healing fraction, Fraction T19, was obtained through hydrolysis with trypsin. In vitro, T19 was not cytotoxic to RAW 264.7 macrophage cells, promoting increased cell proliferation and migration. In vivo, mice (n = 30) were divided into three groups with 12 mm wounds in the dorsal region: control (distilled water), T1 (T19 at 125 μg/mL), and T2 (T19 at 250 μg/mL). Daily applications were performed, with tissue removal after nine days. The results showed that T19 increased the production of nitric oxide (NO) and hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), preventing wound contamination. There was an increase in pro-inflammatory (IL-2 and IFNγ) and anti-inflammatory (IL-4) cytokines, as well as cell proliferation markers (PCNA and KI67). Antibodies CD31, CD163, and COX-2 indicated an increase in the formation of new vessels and a reduction in inflammation. Both groups treated with T19 showed better healing results, with better effects observed at higher doses. It was concluded that T19 can effectively modulate the skin repair process and represent an alternative therapeutic for improving the quality of wound skin, especially in the clinical context. Formulations using tilapia skin are safe and effective for accelerating wound healing.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-08-06
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040133
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 134: Protective Effects of Recombined Mussel
Adhesive Protein against AD Skin Inflammation in Mice
Authors: Yu Wu, Feng Li, Yan Gong, Xing Wan, Li-Ming Zhou
First page: 134
Abstract: (1) Background: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is characterized as a chronic inflammatory skin disease with a significant incidence rate. The pathophysiological mechanisms underlying AD remain incompletely understood. However, extensive research demonstrates that a complex interplay among genetic, immune, and environmental factors contributes to the disruption of skin barrier function. Inflammation is identified as one of the pathological mechanisms in AD. Recombined mussel adhesive protein exhibits anti-inflammatory properties. However, recombinant mussel adhesive protein has been used less frequently for AD, so we explored the therapeutic effect of recombinant mussel adhesive protein for AD and the potential mechanism. (2) Methods: We established a mice model of AD in vivo and an LPS-induced inflammation model in HaCaT cells in vitro. Through assessment of skin lesion scores, itch frequency, transepidermal water loss, skin microcirculation, HE staining, Elisa assays for IL-6, IL-12, IL-13, IL-4, IL-5, IFN-γ, IgE, and TNF-α, immunohistochemical staining for filaggrin and CK14, Masson staining, and Western blot analysis of NF-κB p65, P-P65, Keap1, and Nrf2, the effects of recombined mussel adhesive protein on AD symptoms, pathology, inflammation, and its mechanisms are investigated. (3) Results: The recombined mussel adhesive protein significantly improved the compromised skin barrier, reduced scratching frequency in mice, decreased transepidermal water loss, and lowered the expression of inflammatory factors, thus ameliorating skin inflammation damage. Mechanistically, recombined mussel adhesive protein downregulated the expression of P-p65/p65 and Keap1 while upregulating the level of Nrf2. (4) Conclusions: Overall, our results demonstrate the effectiveness of recombined mussel adhesive protein in attenuating DNFB-induced AD by inhibiting NF-κB and activating the Keap1/Nrf2 signaling pathway. Thus, recombined mussel adhesive protein is a promising therapeutic candidate for the treatment of AD.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-08-09
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040134
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 135: Cosmetology in the Era of Artificial
Intelligence
Authors: Vasiliki Sofia Grech, Vasiliki Kefala, Efstathios Rallis
First page: 135
Abstract: The integration of artificial intelligence (AI) in cosmetology is transforming the industry in numerous ways, including the introduction of advanced tools such as at-home skin analysis devices that can evaluate skin quality and augmented reality applications that allow users to virtually try on various makeup products. These innovations empower individuals to make well-informed decisions about their cosmetic care and enable cosmetologists to predict treatment outcomes with higher accuracy. In this way, AI enhances patient satisfaction by better aligning expectations with achievable results. A computerized database search was performed to identify articles relevant to this topic. A comprehensive search was applied to the following electronic databases: IEEE Xplore, PubMed, Google Scholar, and Research Gate. This review explores four key areas in the current literature where AI contributes to cosmetic procedures. Firstly, AI democratizes skincare by making products and services more accessible to everyone. Secondly, it bridges the gap between physicians and cosmetic suppliers by enlightening collaboration and innovation. Thirdly, it improves the assessment of cosmetic ingredients by ensuring better safety and efficacy, and lastly, AI provides an ethical alternative to animal testing by replacing the Local Lymph Node Assay (LLNA) and the Guinea Pig Maximization Test (GPMT) with in silico models. While AI offers significant benefits, it also raises concerns about data privacy, informed consent, and the potential for promoting unrealistic beauty standards. Addressing these challenges involves implementing measures such as anonymization and de-identification techniques to protect sensitive data and safeguard informed consent for data collection and processing. This article aims to highlight the responsible and ethical use of AI in cosmetology, emphasizing the importance of accuracy and customization in cosmetic care, which represents a significant advancement in the industry.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-08-09
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040135
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 4 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 65: Stability and Retention of Nanoemulsion
Formulations Incorporating Lavender Essential Oil
Authors: Konstantina Flekka, Virginia D. Dimaki, Elena Mourelatou, Konstantinos Avgoustakis, Fotini N. Lamari, Sophia Hatziantoniou
First page: 65
Abstract: Lavender essential oil (LEO) is applied topically for its soothing properties, serving not only as an antiseptic in wound care but also as an insect repellent. This study investigates the impact of carrier systems on LEO encapsulation, stability, and release kinetics for potential skincare applications. The LEO carrier impact on skin hydration and barrier function was also evaluated. Conventional emulsions (CEs) and nanoemulsions (NEs) with (CELs and NELs, respectively) and without LEO incorporation were analyzed for physicochemical properties, stability, and release mechanisms. The droplet size distribution and ζ-potential remained consistent in both CE and CEL, showing the minimal influence of LEO on those parameters. NE and NEL exhibited enhanced stability and higher LEO retention compared to CE and CEL (37.38 mg/mL ± 0.48 mg/mL and 50.96 mg/mL ± 2.00 mg/mL, respectively, p < 0.05), suggesting NE as a superior carrier system for LEO delivery. NEL retained LEO over 60 days at 4 °C without a significant reduction while CEL showed a notable reduction of 94.93% ± 0.08%. Release kinetics analysis showed zero-order release kinetics of LEO from both CEL and NEL (R2: 0.973 and 0.952, respectively), revealing a diffusion-based mechanism, particularly evident in NE formulations, supporting the controlled and sustained release of LEO constituents. NEL also promoted quicker skin barrier repair and enhanced skin hydration, sustaining effects for up to 120 min post application, surpassing CEL’s performance. These findings contribute to understanding the carrier system effects on LEO delivery and underscore NE as a promising vehicle for skincare applications. Further research should explore underlying mechanisms and conduct long-term safety and efficacy studies to fully exploit the therapeutic potential of NE in dermatological applications.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-04-23
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030065
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 66: Correction: Sritananuwat et al.
Effectiveness and Safety of Boesenbergia rotunda Extract on 3T3-L1
Preadipocytes and Its Use in Capsaicin-Loaded Body-Firming Formulation: In
Vitro Biological Study and In Vivo Human Study. Cosmetics 2024, 11, 24
Authors: Phaijit Sritananuwat, Tipada Samseethong, Kusuma Jitsaeng, Sureewan Duangjit, Praneet Opanasopit, Worranan Rangsimawong
First page: 66
Abstract: In the original publication [...]
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-04-25
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030066
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 67: Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with
Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry
Authors: Agnieszka Feliczak-Guzik
First page: 67
Abstract: There is no doubt that chemistry has provided countless products that have improved people’s lives in almost every aspect [...]
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-04-30
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030067
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 68: Development of Cosmetic Formulations
Containing Olive Extract and Spirulina sp.: Stability and Clinical
Efficacy Studies
Authors: Gabriela Maria D’Angelo Costa, Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos
First page: 68
Abstract: Cosmetic formulations with natural antioxidants can reduce the oxidative stress caused by solar radiation and pollution. In this context, the aim of this study was to develop and evaluate the clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing olive extract (OE) and Spirulina sp. (SP). For this, rheological behavior, texture, and sensory properties were evaluated. In addition, 31 healthy women with an age of 39 to 60 years, with skin phototypes II and III, and the presence of signs of photoaging on the face were recruited and divided in Group 1 (vehicle formulation) and Group 2 (vehicle with active substances) for this clinical efficacy study. Both groups applied sunscreen daily during the day. The formulations showed non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behaviors and good sensory properties. The clinical evaluation using instrumental measurements showed an increase in skin hydration, an improvement of the skin barrier, and morphological characteristics of the epidermis after 12 weeks of application of the formulations. There was a significant increase in the brightness of the stratum corneum, which suggested a film-forming effect. In addition, both groups had an improvement in the dermis echogenicity, due to the use of sunscreens. Finally, the proposed formulation was effective in protecting the skin and reducing skin changes related to photoaging.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-05-01
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030068
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 69: Artichoke Leaf Extract Effectiveness on the
Skin Aging Exposome: Efficacy and Safety Results of a Split-Face Study
Authors: Gloria Roveda, Enza Cestone, Francesca De Gennaro, Andrea Poggi, Violetta Insolia, Vincenzo Zaccaria, Vincenzo Nobile
First page: 69
Abstract: The skin is a barrier organ subjected to lifelong exposure to internal and external factors influencing both its biological response and appearance. A randomized split-face study was carried out on 22 adult female outdoor workers using an artichoke leaf extract (CynageTM). The product’s efficacy was measured before and after 28 days of use. The following skin parameters were measured: wrinkle depth, skin roughness, and radiance, to assess the product’s effect on the skin appearance; Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Power (FRAP), to assess the total antioxidant capacity; and tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α) levels, to assess the anti-inflammatory efficacy. These parameters were also integrated by the evaluation of the subjective perception of product efficacy. After 28 days of product use, the skin’s appearance improved as follows: wrinkle depth and skin roughness decreased by 5.2% and 7.0%, respectively, while the skin radiance increased by 19.0%. The total antioxidant capacity of the skin increased by 20.2%. The skin’s TNF-α levels decreased by 8.2%. The product efficacy was also perceived by the subjects participating in the study. The product was well tolerated. Our findings demonstrate the active role of the ingredient in decreasing the skin damage induced by the exposome.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-05-03
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030069
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 70: Advancing Lip Augmentation: State-of-the-Art
2D and 3D Analysis for Assessing Volume Enhancement and Lip Line
Redefinition
Authors: Ritamaria Di Lorenzo, Lucia Ricci, Eleonora Vardaro, Teresa Di Serio, Elena Morelli, Sonia Laneri
First page: 70
Abstract: Over the preceding five decades, there has been a noticeable surge in the pursuit of achieving voluminous and well-defined lips. This trend has prompted an escalating number of individuals to undergo lip augmentation procedures, aiming for a natural three-dimensional enhancement of lip volume and distinct vermilion borders. Despite the proliferation of lip augmentation techniques, there remains a dearth of comprehensive investigations into their precise effects on the three-dimensional structural integrity of the lips. This research endeavors to address this gap by employing stereophotogrammetry as a quantitative tool to scrutinize lip augmentation outcomes and to appraise the efficacy of lip plumpers. The study methodology involves a comparative analysis of lip dimensions among subjects treated with a commercial lip plumper using multi-spectral imaging for lip dimension assessment, coupled with markerless tracking technology and 3D interpolating surface methodology to analyze lip volume and shape. Additionally, the study evaluated lip youth state, including moisture level, softness, firmness, and tissue density. The demand for lip augmentation procedures is driven by perceived advantages such as quick recovery and minimal risk. Therefore, it is crucial to substantiate their efficacy with robust findings. The investigation suggests that both 3D and 2D stereophotogrammetry techniques are reliable for evaluating lip size before and after augmentation, whether through cosmetic or aesthetic approaches. Overall, the study provides a comprehensive analysis of a lip treatment aimed at enhancing volume and redesigning lip lines. It demonstrates that stereophotogrammetry is effective for assessing 3D lip dimensions and their correlation with internal lip structure. This research could be particularly valuable for evaluating the efficacy and duration of various lip enhancement techniques, including dermal fillers, implants, and topical cosmetic formulations, offering quantitative and reproducible assessments over time.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-05-03
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030070
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 71: Efficacy and Safety of Monopolar
Radiofrequency for Tightening the Skin of Aged Faces
Authors: JungMin Shin, Yeounkuk Sung, Soyoung Jin, Cho-Long Hwang, Hyunjung Kim, Dongkyun Hong, Kyung Eun Jung, Young-Joon Seo, Young Lee
First page: 71
Abstract: Background: Monopolar radiofrequency (RF) has emerged as a promising modality for tightening the skin of aged faces. Although many studies have assessed the efficacy of monopolar RF via the clinical evaluation of photographs, few have examined the long-term effectiveness and safety of this therapy using various skin testing devices. Methods: Twenty women with aged faces participated in this study. After a single monopolar RF treatment, three blinded dermatologists who were not involved in the treatment evaluated its clinical efficacy and safety after 4, 12, and 24 weeks. Skin firmness, fine wrinkles, skin pores, and skin tone were also measured using an indentometer (Courage+Khazaka Electronic GmbH, Köln, Germany) and a facial aging measurement device (Mark-Vu; PSI Plus, Suwon-si, Republic of Korea). Results: Skin laxity in the jowls and nasolabial folds showed significant improvement 12 weeks after the single monopolar RF treatment when evaluated by dermatologists, and this improvement lasted 24 weeks (p < 0.05). Moreover, the participants reported improvement at 4 weeks compared to baseline which lasted 24 weeks (p < 0.05). Skin firmness measured in the cheek increased 4 weeks after treatment and continued to improve during 24 weeks of follow-up (p < 0.01). Although there was a gradual increase in improvement in skin pores, fine wrinkles, and skin tones, there were no statistical differences compared to the baseline. No patients experienced pain during the treatment, and no burns, skin breakdown, or scarring occurred after treatment. Conclusions: A single monopolar RF treatment is effective for females with aged face. A significant improvement in the jowls and nasolabial folds and facial skin firmness was observed between the 4- and 24-week follow-ups without adverse effects.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-05-03
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030071
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 72: Cosmetic Formulations from Natural Sources:
Safety Considerations and Legislative Frameworks in the European Union
Authors: Maame Ekua Manful, Lubna Ahmed, Catherine Barry-Ryan
First page: 72
Abstract: Consumer preferences, safety, and sustainability aspects of conventional cosmetic ingredients have contributed to an increase in the demand for natural cosmetic ingredients and products. Naturally derived active cosmetic agents and excipients may come into contact with various naturally occurring and synthetic contaminants throughout the supply chain, and substantiating their safety is essential. This review examines the safety and legislative requirements applicable to natural cosmetic ingredients in the European Union (EU). Cosmetic safety requirements include technical data based on the ingredient profile, presence of hazards and the risks associated with the intended conditions of use. The hazard analysis includes screening for microbial contaminants such as aerobic mesophilic bacteria, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, and Candida albicans; chemical contaminants such as lead, cadmium, arsenic, and mercury; and naturally occurring toxins, such as allergens. The toxicological assessment considers both local effects (such as skin sensitisation, eye/skin irritation, and photo-induced effects) and systemic effects (including acute dermal toxicity, sub-acute and sub-chronic toxicity, mutagenicity and carcinogenicity, reproductive toxicity, and toxicokinetics). The EU legislative requirements prohibit the use of animal-based tests for the toxicological evaluation of cosmetic ingredients, paving the way for alternatives termed as New Approach Methodologies (NAMs). The validation of NAMs is critical for their wider usage, and despite advancements, few have been validated, particularly for systemic toxicity testing. The use of NAMs in evaluating the safety of complex natural cosmetic ingredients is further examined.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-05-04
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030072
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 73: Nicotinamide Riboside Ameliorates
Hyperpigmentation on Photo-Irradiated Skin
Authors: Yeon Jae Lee, Seul Gi Jang, Min Jeong Ryu, Seung Hee Choi
First page: 73
Abstract: Nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) is one of the most important and essential components within an organism. Extensive ongoing research is aimed at harnessing its potential in managing diverse diseases by supplying various forms of NAD in its oxidized state, NAD+. Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is the most common environmental exposure factor, but also carries many risks. UVR affects the epidermis and contributes to sunburn, photo-allergy, DNA damage, and certain cancers, notably melanoma. Research has shown that NAD+ precursors, including nicotinamide riboside (NR), reduce melanogenesis in aged melanocytes. In this study, we used NR to determine whether melanin hyperpigmentation was suppressed after light stimulation. We found that melanogenesis was inhibited when B16F10 cells treated with α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone were exposed to specific doses of NR. Additionally, tyrosinase activity (a key step in melanin production) was suppressed. However, there was no difference in the expression level of melanogenic genes. Ultraviolet B light directly stimulated HaCaT cells, inducing the RNA expression of metalloproteinases. Treatment with NR suppressed the corresponding gene expression and reduced cytotoxicity. This study demonstrates the possibility of using NR as a new skin-whitening ingredient due to its inhibitory effect on hyperpigmentation and ability to maintain skin layers affected by UVR.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-05-05
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030073
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 74: Adult Female Acne: Recent Advances in
Pathophysiology and Therapeutic Approaches
Authors: Andreea Amuzescu, Mircea Tampa, Clara Matei, Simona Roxana Georgescu
First page: 74
Abstract: Adult acne is a chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit characterized by the excessive production of abnormal sebum favoring an imbalance of the skin microbiota and the hyperproliferation of Cutibacterium acnes and other virulent microbial strains, leading to an inflammatory environment, innate immunity overactivation, and keratinocyte hyperproliferation in hair follicles pores. Degraded keratinocytes plug the pores, consequently forming microcomedons, which can later evolve to papules, nodules, pustules and scars. Distinct from juvenile acne, in adult female acne (AFA) the symptomatology occurs or persists in postadolescence (after age 25). Although hyperandrogenism or the excessive sensitivity of androgen receptors are the main causes, AFA can be triggered by multiple factors, either including or not including androgen disturbances. The prevalence in adult women is 15–20%. Hyperandrogenism is present in 50% of cases; 70% of hyperandrogenism cases feature polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS), a complex endocrine and metabolic condition. Genetic susceptibility occurs in 80% of acne cases, often with familial inheritance. Beyond classical stepwise therapeutic protocols (topical agents, isotretinoin, antibiotics, hormonal therapy with estrogens, progestins, spironolactone), novel approaches include the highly effective topical antiandrogen clascoterone, the management of insulin resistance by diet, exercise, stress avoidance, and adjuvant therapies such as berberine. Vaccines against the pathogenic proinflammatory C. acnes hyaluronidase A are in development.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-05-05
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030074
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 75: Effects of Chlorinated Water on Neurite
Length of Cultured Dorsal Root Ganglion Neurons and Semaphorin 3A Content
of Cultured Epidermal Keratinocytes
Authors: Kazuhisa Maeda, Neneka Okumura, Aoba Ogawa, Hatsumi Takeda
First page: 75
Abstract: The tap water that we normally use contains certain concentrations of free residual chlorine to kill microorganisms and viruses and make it safe for use. Water containing free residual chlorine not only dries out our hair and skin but can also cause irritation and itching in some people—especially those with sensitive skin or reduced skin barrier function. We investigated the effects of free residual chlorine on cultured dorsal root ganglion neurons and cultured epidermal keratinocytes. First, we measured neurite length in cultured rat dorsal root ganglion neurons. Next, to evaluate the effects of chlorine on semaphorin 3A (Sema3A) and nerve growth factor (NGF) levels in cultured human epidermal keratinocytes, we used an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay to measure NGF in the supernatant and polymerase chain reaction and Western blot to determine Sema3A and NGF levels. Chlorine elongated the neurite length and increased the number of projections in cultured rat dorsal root ganglion neurons. Although there were no changes in NGF mRNA or protein levels in the supernatant of cultured human epidermal keratinocytes in the presence of chlorine, Sema3A mRNA and protein levels decreased, and the ratio of Sema3A to NGF was also reduced.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-05-07
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030075
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 76: Polyglutamate: Unleashing the Versatility of
a Biopolymer for Cosmetic Industry Applications
Authors: Mónica Serra, Eduardo Gudina, Cláudia Botelho, José António Teixeira, Ana Novo Barros
First page: 76
Abstract: Polyglutamic acid (PGA), a biopolymer comprising repeating units of glutamic acid, has garnered significant attention owing to its versatile applications. In recent years, microbial production processes have emerged as promising methods for the large-scale synthesis of PGA, offering advantages such as sustainability, efficiency, and tailored molecular properties. Beyond its industrial applications, PGA exhibits unique properties that render it an attractive candidate for use in the cosmetic industry. The biocompatibility, water solubility, and film-forming characteristics of PGA make it an ideal ingredient for cosmetic formulations. This article explores the extensive potential cosmetic applications of PGA, highlighting its multifaceted role in skincare, haircare, and various beauty products. From moisturizing formulations to depigmentating agents and sunscreen products, PGA offers a wide array of benefits. Its ability to deeply hydrate the skin and hair makes it an ideal ingredient for moisturizers, conditioners, and hydrating masks. Moreover, PGA’s depigmentating properties contribute to the reduction in hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone, enhancing the overall complexion. As the demand for sustainable and bio-derived cosmetic ingredients escalates, comprehending the microbial production and cosmetic benefits of PGA becomes crucial for driving innovation in the cosmetic sector.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-05-08
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030076
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 77: Effect of Fermentation and Extraction
Techniques on the Physicochemical Composition of Copoazú Butter
(Theobroma grandiflorum) as an Ingredient for the Cosmetic Industry
Authors: Luisa L. Orduz-Díaz, Kimberly Lozano-Garzón, Willian Quintero-Mendoza, Raquel Díaz, Juliana E. C. Cardona-Jaramillo, Marcela P. Carrillo, Diana Carolina Guerrero, Maria Soledad Hernández
First page: 77
Abstract: The Copoazú is a Theobroma species of Amazonian origin, and its derived products have a high content of lipids valuable for both the cosmetic and food industries. The composition of the butter extracted from its seeds can vary depending on the postharvest process and the diverse extraction techniques employed. In this study, the composition of this butter processed with and without seed fermentation was analyzed using two extraction techniques: expeller pressing and hydraulic pressing. Parameters such as lipid profile, quality indexes, melting point, and the content of phytosterols and glyceric compounds were compared with a highly sought-after commercial raw material assessed through standardized volumetric and spectroscopic methodologies. The results showed that non-fermentation and cold-pressing conditions preserved the properties of the butter. This analysis is the first step in a standardized process for developing high-quality cosmetic ingredients derived from Copoazú butter.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-05-08
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030077
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 78: Contact Dermatitis Due to Hair Care
Products: A Comprehensive Review
Authors: Marta Cebolla-Verdugo, Juan Pablo Velasco-Amador, Francisco José Navarro-Triviño
First page: 78
Abstract: Hair cosmetics are in fashion. Numerous products are commonly used in combination. Frequent allergens are present in hair cosmetics, which, with almost daily use, increase the risk of sensitization. Familiarity with the clinical distribution of the eczematous rash is necessary to seriously consider patch testing. Not all the products on the market are haptens. It is necessary to know how to patch your own products. When avoidance of the allergen is not possible, new treatments are evaluated to combat allergic contact dermatitis, mainly of the occupational type. In this manuscript, a complete and practical review of the main allergens and contact sources of hair cosmetic origin has been carried out.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-05-09
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030078
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 79: Computational Methods as Part of Scientific
Research in Cosmetic Sciences—Are We Using the Opportunity'
Authors: Laura Krumpholz, Sebastian Polak, Barbara Wiśniowska
First page: 79
Abstract: In the field of the cosmetic industry, significant efforts are made to develop methods that are not only cost effective and time effective but are also environmentally friendly and cruelty free. Cosmetic tests using in vivo animal models are currently banned in the European Union. To fulfil regulatory requirements, new approach methodologies (NAMs) are implemented, and thereupon, in silico techniques have constantly acquired significance. This review aimed to show the general picture of the available computational methods and approaches, give some examples of their applications, present capabilities and limitations, and propose the way forward. The general information about in silico modelling and examples of its usage in the context of cosmetics and its legal regulation are presented. The review is divided with a focus on three endpoints of interest: (1) safety assessment, (2) exposure assessment, and (3) formulation characterization. With this comprehensive analysis, we try to answer the question as to whether we are using the opportunity.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-05-14
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030079
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 80: Deciphering the Effects of Different Types
of Sunlight Radiation on Skin Function: A Review
Authors: Sophia Letsiou, Elpida Koldiri, Apostolos Beloukas, Efstathios Rallis, Vasiliki Kefala
First page: 80
Abstract: Sunlight radiation is a fundamental component of our daily lives. Specifically, blue light as well as UV light appear to play a role in the development of oxidative stress, DNA damage, photoaging, and pigmentation through the chromophores in skin tissues. However, several skin problems like psoriasis, eczema, and atopic dermatitis can be avoided with short-duration exposures to low-energy blue light radiation or UV radiation. In addition, exploring the effects of blue light as well as UV radiation on skin is quite essential for the development of minimally invasive antiaging strategies and for the design of innovative cosmetic formulations in modern aesthetics and cosmetology. Thus, in this review, we present the advantages as well as the disadvantages of light radiation, with a special focus on blue light and UV radiation activity on the human skin. We also discuss the molecular action of blue light and UV radiation on human skin. Other types of light radiation are included to holistically approach the effect of light on human skin.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-05-20
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030080
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 81: Fractional Ablative Carbon Dioxide Laser
versus Fractional Non-Ablative 1410 nm Diode Laser in the Treatment of
Acne Scars: A Clinical and Immunohistochemical Study
Authors: Mai Abdelraouf Osman, Shaimaa Mohamedadel Fawy, Dalia M. Abouelfadl, Mohamed Fouad Abdel Salam, Amin Sharobim, Abeer Attia Tawfik
First page: 81
Abstract: Background: Effectively managing acne scars while minimizing consequences is still a challenging task. The primary determinant in selecting and continuing therapy for a specific device is stimulating collagen production and dermal remodeling with the fewest possible complications. Objective: To evaluate the clinical and immunohistochemical results of ablative fractional carbon dioxide (FCO2) laser versus fractional non-ablative diode laser for treating facial acne scars. Methods and Materials: Thirty patients with atrophic acne scars were included in a split-face comparative study. Right and left facial sides received three sessions of FCO2 and diode laser, respectively, at one-month intervals. One month after the third session, patients were evaluated using photographs, the Goodman and Baron qualitative and quantitative global scarring grading system, the investigator’s global assessment, and patient satisfaction. A sample was collected from the area that had been treated, and the tissue was examined using hematoxylin and eosin (H–E) staining and immunohistochemistry staining for collagen I. Results: Goodman and Baron global scores showed a statistically significant difference compared to baseline on both sides of the face. However, there was no statistically significant difference between the two treatment modalities. Biopsy specimens showed an increased deposition of collagen I by both laser devices, which was validated and described by immunohistochemistry staining. Conclusion: Both FCO2 and fractional non-ablative diode lasers proved their efficacy in treating different types of acne scars. For patients who are interested in no downtime and no complications, fractional non-ablative diode laser is recommended as an efficient alternative modality.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-05-20
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030081
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 82: N-Acetylneuraminic Acid Inhibits
Melanogenesis via Induction of Autophagy
Authors: Kei Yoshikawa, Kazuhisa Maeda
First page: 82
Abstract: N-acetylneuraminic acid (Neu5Ac) is the predominant form of sialic acid present in the glossy swiftlet (Collocalia esculenta). It is also the only form of sialic acid detected in the human body. In this study, we investigated the mechanism underlying melanogenesis inhibition by Neu5Ac. We discovered that a reduction in tyrosinase protein levels led to an inhibition of melanin production by Neu5Ac. Additionally, the mRNA and protein levels of ubiquitin-specific protease (USP5) and microtubule-associated protein 1 light chain 3 (LC3)-II increased, while those of p62 decreased, indicating enhanced autophagic activity. Lysosomal cathepsin L2 protein levels also increased, and immunostaining revealed colocalization of lysosomal membrane protein (LAMP)-1 and tyrosinase. Additionally, levels of chaperonin containing T-complex polypeptide (CCT), implicated in increased autophagic flux, were elevated. Altogether, these findings suggest that tyrosinase-containing coated vesicles are transported by Neu5Ac into the autophagic degradation pathway, suppressing mature melanosome generation. This process involves increased USP5 levels preventing recognition of polyubiquitin by proteasomes. Furthermore, elevated CCT3 protein levels may enhance autophagic flux, leading to the incorporation of tyrosinase-containing coated vesicles into autophagosomes. These autophagosomes then fuse with lysosomes for cathepsin L2–mediated degradation. Thus, our findings suggest that Neu5Ac reduces tyrosinase activity and inhibits melanosome maturation by promoting selective autophagic degradation of abnormal proteins by p62.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-05-21
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030082
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 83: A Randomized Controlled Prospective Cohort
Study on the Efficacy of a Witch Hazel Extract Cream for the Eyelids and
Eye Contour Area and a Cleansing Face Cream in Dermatitis of the Eyelids
Authors: Federica Veronese, Elia Esposto, Chiara Airoldi, Nunzia Di Cristo, Pamela Paganini, Paola Savoia, Elisa Zavattaro
First page: 83
Abstract: Background: Eyelid dermatitis is a common, multifactorial, chronic, and/or relapsing condition with a considerable impact on life quality that represents a diagnostic and treatment challenge. Methods: We carried out a single-blind, controlled, randomized, parallel-group study to evaluate the efficacy of two dermo-cosmetics (cream for the eyelids and eye contour area and cleansing face cream) in which the key ingredient was witch hazel extract, compared to generic cream, in the treatment of patients affected by eyelid dermatitis. Enrolled subjects were treated and followed-up for 4 weeks; dermatological evaluation was objectively performed using the DLQI, OSDI, NRS–itch, and EDSI indicators. Results: The products tested proved to be more effective than the placebo in ameliorating the dermatitis in the treated patients, based on all considered dermatological scores. In the treatment arm, we observed a reduction in both DLQI score and in the indicators related to the extension of dermatitis, greater than that observed in the control arm. Conclusions: This comparative study demonstrates the role of dermo-cosmetic products tested not only as a support treatment, but also as a first-choice clinical approach.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-05-22
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030083
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 84: Natural Extracts and Essential Oils as
Ingredients in Cosmetics: Search for Potential Phytomarkers and Allergen
Survey
Authors: Laura Rubio, Andrea Pita, Carmen Garcia-Jares, Marta Lores
First page: 84
Abstract: The increasing use of natural ingredients such as essential oils (EOs) and natural extracts (NEs) in cosmetics is an analytical and legislative challenge due to their complex composition, which includes recognized allergenic compounds. In this work, 17 EOs and NEs have been characterized by gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (GC-MS) of dilutions of the original samples. Additionally, solid phase microextraction (SPME) was applied for the analysis of volatile components. The results obtained allowed the identification of more than 90 compounds, including 20 allergens, in the analyzed samples and the study of potential phytomarkers of the addition of EOs and ENs in cosmetics.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-05-24
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030084
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 85: Nanotechnology for Effective Epilation:
Assessment of the Application of a Protease-Containing Microemulsion
Authors: Monika Skórka, Manfred Gahrtz, Maria D. Chatzidaki, Aristotelis Xenakis, Thomas Whitfield
First page: 85
Abstract: Background: Epilation is a very effective way to remove unwanted hair because of its long-lasting effects. However, there are some disadvantages such as pain during the procedure, the possibility of ingrown hairs and perifollicular inflammation. In the present study, we investigated whether a protease-containing post-epilation microemulsion is effective in improving epilation performance and alleviating the above problems. Methods: The application characteristics and effects of the tested microemulsion were evaluated during and after three applications in 30 female volunteers. This was conducted by measuring hair density, assessing hair strength, and evaluating the subjective experience of the volunteers using a questionnaire. Results: The measurements showed that after three applications, the apparent hair density in the axilla was reduced from 43.89 ± 12.44 hairs/cm2 to 16.67 ± 6.61 hairs/cm2 (p < 0.0001). In general, volunteers observed a reduced hair regrowth rate, resulting in longer epilation intervals, and more soothed and moisturized skin. Volunteers who previously experienced ingrown hairs or perifollicular inflammation reported the absence or improvement of these problems. Conclusions: The protease-containing microemulsion not only improves the performance of the epilation procedure, leading to less frequent epilation, but also improves possible negative effects of epilation such as ingrown hairs and perifollicular inflammation.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-05-29
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030085
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 86: Physicochemical Properties of a Bioactive
Polysaccharide Film from Cassia grandis with Immobilized Collagenase from
Streptomyces parvulus (DPUA/1573)
Authors: Kétura Ferreira, Kethylen Cardoso, Romero Brandão-Costa, Joana T. Martins, Cláudia Botelho, Anna Neves, Thiago Nascimento, Juanize Batista, Éverton Ferreira, Fernando Damasceno, Amanda Sales-Conniff, Wendell Albuquerque, Ana Porto, José Teixeira
First page: 86
Abstract: (1) Background: Polysaccharide films are promising vehicles for the delivery of bioactive agents such as collagenases, as they provide controlled release at the wound site, facilitating tissue regeneration. This study aimed to investigate the physicochemical properties of Cassia grandis polysaccharide films with immobilized collagenase from Streptomyces parvulus (DPUA/1573). (2) Methods: Galactomannan was extracted from Cassia grandis seeds for film production with 0.8% (w/v) galactomannan and 0.2% (v/v) glycerol with or without collagenases. The films underwent physical-chemical analyses: Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), color and opacity (luminosity-L*, green to red-a*, yellow to blue-b*, opacity-Y%), moisture content, water vapor permeability (WVP), thickness, contact angle, and mechanical properties. (3) Results: The results showed similar FTIR spectra to the literature, indicating carbonyl functional groups. Immobilizing bioactive compounds increased surface roughness observed in SEM. TGA indicated a better viability for films with immobilized S. parvulus enzymes. Both collagenase-containing and control films exhibited a bright-yellowish color with slight opacity (Y%). Mechanical tests revealed decreased rigidity in PCF (−25%) and SCF (−41%) and increased deformability in films with the immobilized bioactive compounds, PCF (234%) and SCF (295%). (4) Conclusions: Polysaccharide-based films are promising biomaterials for controlled composition, biocompatibility, biodegradability, and wound healing, with a potential in pharmacological applications.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-05-29
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030086
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 87: Effectiveness of a Complex Antioxidant
Product Applied by Sonophoresis and Micro-Needle Mesotherapy
Authors: Anna Jaros-Sajda, Elzbieta Budzisz, Anna Erkiert-Polguj
First page: 87
Abstract: Antioxidants (including Vitamin C, ferulic acid, and phloretin) are among the compounds used in skincare products. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of a combination containing L-ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, and phloretin. The delivery of active substances was facilitated by micro-needle mesotherapy and sonophoresis. The study was completed by 22 volunteers. The study resulted in a significant reduction of erythema and an improvement in skin hydration. According to participants, the therapy yielded visible anti-aging effects. The combination of up to three antioxidant-active ingredients and the use of transdermal application methods proved to be both safe and effective.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-05-30
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030087
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 88: Deodorant Efficacy of Xylityl
Authors: Lilian Mussi, André Rolim Baby, Cecilia Nogueira, Flávio Bueno de Camargo Junior, Wagner Vidal Magalhães
First page: 88
Abstract: Given the burgeoning global market for deodorant products, it is paramount to develop novel, safe, and efficacious molecules that align with the cosmetic industry’s trend toward active compounds sourced from natural, sustainable, and renewable sources. In this context, we in vitro and in vivo investigated the deodorant potential of xylityl sesquicaprylate, a compound that, besides other functions, has antimicrobial activity. We performed the time–kill test to challenge the xylityl sesquicaprylate against Staphylococcus epidermidis, Staphylococcus aureus, and Corynebacterium xerosis and in vivo trial efficacy was established through a sniff test using two deodorant prototype formulations containing xylityl sesquicaprylate at 0.35% (w/w). The xylityl sesquicaprylate at 0.35% (w/w) in glycerin presented in vitro deodorant activity through a bactericide/bacteriostatic profile against S. epidermidis, S. aureus, and C. xerosis. The in vivo efficacy trial performed by the sniffers through a single application of the roll-on and the stick prototype formulations added to the developed active compound deodorant’s effectiveness with a reduction in axillary bad odor, in comparison to the respective blank sample, for 2, 4, 8, and 12 h. When the deodorant efficacy was evaluated subjectively by the participants, there was always no difference between the stick sample and the blank; however, the roll-on deodorant was perceived as effective after 4 and 8 h of a single application of the sample, as established by the volunteers.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-05-31
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030088
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 89: Comparing a Low-Fluence Picosecond 1064 nm
Nd:YAG Laser with a 532 nm Nd:YAG Laser for the Treatment of Pigmented
Lesions in Chinese Patients: A Retrospective Analysis
Authors: Po-Hsuan Lu, Xiao-Feng Yao, Yang-Chih Lin, Pa-Fan Hsiao
First page: 89
Abstract: The use of low-fluence picosecond (LFPS) 1064 nm neodymium-doped yttrium aluminum garnet (Nd:YAG) lasers, referred to as laser toning, is increasingly acknowledged as an effective treatment for pigmentation disorders in the Asian skin phenotype. This study aimed to conduct a comparative analysis on the effectiveness and safety of utilizing LFPS 1064 nm Nd:YAG lasers against picosecond 532 nm Nd:YAG lasers in treating pigmented lesions among Chinese patients. A retrospective photographic analysis and chart reviews were performed on 31 subjects exhibiting Fitzpatrick skin types III–VI who underwent LFPS 1064 nm Nd:YAG or picosecond 532 nm Nd:YAG treatments at a single tertiary center. Utilizing VISIA Complexion Analysis, comparative photographs were taken. Two independent physicians evaluated treatment efficacy using a visual analog scale (VAS) to assess the percentage of pigmentary clearance in standard photographs. Solar lentigines were the most prevalent pigmentary disorder, followed by post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), nevus zygomaticus, melasma, freckles, and nevus of Ota. The clinical effectiveness of picosecond 532 nm and LFPS 1064 nm laser treatments proved comparable for lesions on the face, with mean VAS scores of 2.2 ± 1.1 and 1.8 ± 0.8, respectively. There were two cases of PIH in the picosecond 532 nm group, which resolved within one month. Overall, the LFPS 1064 nm laser demonstrates promise as a safe and efficient therapeutic modality for managing pigmented lesions in Chinese patients.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-06-03
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030089
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 90: Disturbances in the Skin Homeostasis: Wound
Healing, an Undefined Process
Authors: Montserrat Férnandez-Guarino, Jorge Naharro-Rodriguez, Stefano Bacci
First page: 90
Abstract: This review was written with the aim of examining the effects that cause an insult, such as a wound, to an organ, such as the skin. Before examining the cellular mechanisms relating to wound healing, the reader is invited to read about the structure of the skin as a necessary basis for understanding the final aim of this review. The structure of the skin as a basis for understanding the phenomena relating to wound healing is addressed, taking into account the updated literature that addresses the numerous problems of the skin microenvironment. Starting from this awareness, the paragraphs dedicated to wound healing become complicated when this phenomenon is not implemented and therefore while the problems of chronic wounds, keloids, and hypertrophic scars are addressed, these are pathologies that are still difficult to understand and treat today.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-06-04
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030090
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 91: Towards the Development of a Cream with
Antiviral Properties Targeting Both the Influenza A Virus and SARS-CoV-2
Authors: Philippe Mangeot, Kristell Lazou, Aurelia Blin, Valerie Gorzelanczyk, Olivier Jeanneton, Chantal Kurfurst, Karl Pays, Bruno Bavouzet, Carine Nizard, Theophile Ohlmann, Anne-Laure Bulteau
First page: 91
Abstract: Objective: Many severe acute respiratory infections are caused by viral pathogens, and viruses are responsible for a large number of deaths worldwide. Among the most common respiratory viruses are the influenza A virus (IAV) and, more recently, the SARS-CoV-2 that emerged in 2019 and caused the most significant human pandemic of the beginning of the 21st century. Both IAV and SARS-CoV-2 share clinical features and a common transmission route through the emission of viral particles via aerosols and droplets. These penetrate the host after entry from the nose and mouth or an indirect mode of transmission via contact contamination of different media. These facts prompted us to investigate the possibility of designing a soft cream with a virucidal activity targeted against IAV and SARS-CoV-2. Methods: We first investigated the action of chemical compounds known to have antiviral properties such as cyclodextrin, or algae extracts containing sulfated polysaccharides, on cultured cells infected with lentiviral viral particles pseudotyped (VP) with either proteins HA (hemagglutinin) and NA (neuraminidase) from IAV or the G protein from the vesicular stomatitis virus or spike-bearing particles in order to select molecules with antiviral activities in human embryonic kidney (HEK293T) cells. Results: Our results show that some cyclodextrin-containing creams can significantly reduce the stability of HANA- and spike-bearing particles when they are applied prior to challenge with a viral inoculum on skin. Conclusions: We observed some specificities of these creams towards either IAV or SARS-CoV-2, indicating that the neutralization of viral activity is correlated with the mechanism of receptor interaction and entry of these two pathogens.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-06-04
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030091
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 92: The Comparative Efficacy and Safety of 250
μm versus 350 μm Long Microneedle Patch on Under-Eye Skin
Authors: Apisama Arepagorn, Jitlada Meephansan, Punyaphat Sirithanabadeekul, Kittipong Tantisantisom, Sattra Thongma, Yossawat Rayanasukha, Thitikorn Boonkoom, Paisan Khanchaitit
First page: 92
Abstract: Background: Microneedle patch (MNP) technology is now applied for many purposes, including transdermal drug delivery and percutaneous collagen induction in the cosmetic and dermatology fields. Previous research showed that a MNP effectively improved skin appearance, while treatments using larger or deeper microneedles were not easily tolerated by human subjects. Few studies have compared MNP designs in humans. Study Objective: To compare novel MNP designs with high length and low density versus low length and high density for rejuvenating skin wrinkles under the eyes. Methods: This non-randomized split-face clinical trial was conducted as a double-blind study with 36 Thai female participants. Each participant was treated with two different MNP designs, one on each side of the face. The microneedle lengths were 250 μm with a density of 945 needles/cm2 on the left side of the face under the eye and 350 μm with a density of 482 needles/cm2 on the right side of the face under the eye. The treatments were applied for 12 weeks, with the assessment outcomes evaluated at the baseline and 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 weeks. Results: The application of these two novel MNP designs successfully rejuvenated under-eye wrinkles with low pain level scores. Increasing the length of the needle or having a 350 μm long MN can better reduce under-eye wrinkles without statistical significance. During the study period, there was an improvement in skin surface roughness in both groups accompanied by a consistent reduction in under-eye skin wrinkles, without statistically significant differences observed between the groups when using the Antera 3D system. However, the 350 μm long MN also slightly increased the pain compared to the shorter needles (250 μm long MN) with a higher density of needles. There were no side effects associated with the two designs. Conclusions: The two novel MNPs gave favorable results as a safe non-invasive treatment for the rejuvenation of skin wrinkles under the eyes. Increasing the number of needles and increasing the length of the needles were both effective in safely reducing under-eye wrinkles without any adverse effects. Additionally, participants could self-apply them at home and were highly satisfied. However, increasing the length of the needles may result in slightly more pain compared to increasing the number of needles.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-06-05
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030092
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 93: Electrospray-Mangiferin Nanoparticles Gel: A
Promising Agent for Sun and Age Defense
Authors: Chomchoei, Leelapornpisid, Tipduangta, Sirithunyalug, Sirithunyalug, Samutrtai
First page: 93
Abstract: UV irradiation causes skin damage and aging. This study aimed to develop and evaluate a gel formulation loaded with electrospray mangiferin nanoparticles (MNPs) as a double-action product with photoprotective and anti-aging properties. The MNPs were prepared using the electrospraying technique and loaded in a gel formulation. The MNP formulation was evaluated regarding its physical appearance, viscosity, in vitro sun protection factor (SPF), and in vitro anti-oxidant activity and compared with a formulation containing purified mangiferin (PM) at the same concentration of 0.2% (w/v). Moreover, both formulations were analyzed for their in vitro release and ex vivo skin permeation. The MNP formulation had a considerably higher SPF value than the PM formulation at the same concentration (20.43 ± 0.13 and 12.19 ± 0.27, respectively). The in vitro anti-oxidant activities of the formulations with MNPs and PM were 74.47 ± 2.19% and 80.52 ± 1.05%, respectively. The MNP formulation showed potent photoprotective and anti-oxidation activities with acceptable stability in all parameters under accelerated conditions (4 ± 2 °C 48 h/45 ± 2 °C 48 h for 6 cycles) and after 30 days of storage under various conditions. The release profile data of the MNPs showed a controlled release pattern at 76.97 ± 0.06% at 480 min. Furthermore, after using a Franz diffusion cell for 8 h, the MNP formulation showed the release of 37.01 ± 2.61% and 22.39 ± 1.59% of mangiferin content in the skin layer as stratum corneum and viable epidermis, respectively. Therefore, the overall results demonstrate that electrospray MNPs in a gel formulation are suitable for skin and constitute a promising delivery system for mangiferin in developing cosmetics and cosmeceutical products with good potential.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-06-05
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030093
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 94: Chemical Profile and Antioxidant and
Tyrosinase Inhibitory Activity of Chamaemelum nobile L. Green Extracts
Authors: Luciana Maria Polcaro, Antonietta Cerulli, Francesco Montella, Elena Ciaglia, Milena Masullo, Sonia Piacente
First page: 94
Abstract: The request for skin-whitening agents and bioactive principles able to control hyperpigmentation disorders is continuously growing. Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) is used as a remedy for skin diseases, but little is known about the ability of Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) to act as a skin-whitening agent. With the aim to investigate antioxidant and lightening potential, fresh aerial parts of C. nobile were extracted by maceration, ultrasound-assisted extraction, and solid–liquid dynamic (SLDE-Naviglio) extraction using EtOH/H2O mixtures. Moreover, 32 metabolites (flavonoids, sesquiterpenoids, amides, and polar fatty acids) were identified by liquid chromatography/mass spectrometry. Principal component analysis revealed how the extract EtOH/H2O 50% (Naviglio and long maceration), along with the extract EtOH/H2O 60% (maceration) were richest in flavonoids. All extracts were tested by TEAC and DPPH assays, and to determine their in vitro antioxidant activity, the DHR 123 probe–intracellular ROS assay in HaCaT cells, for some extracts, was performed. Moreover, their ability to exert a whitening effect was tested by analyzing their tyrosinase inhibitory activity. The quantitative determination of apigenin, known as a natural tyrosinase inhibitor, was performed by LC-ESI/QTrap/MS/MS using the multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) method. These results are promising for selecting an extraction method to obtain a sustainable product rich in bioactives.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-06-06
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030094
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 95: A Mn (II) Quinoline Complex (4QMn) Mitigates
Authors: Marián Merino, Sonia González, Mª Paz Clares, Enrique García-España, José L. Mullor
First page: 95
Abstract: Solar radiation, specifically ultraviolet radiation (UVR), is one of the harmful external factors that affect the integrity of the skin upon sun overexposure. Its detrimental effects include skin aging (photoaging), pigmentation disorders, and skin cancer. Upon UVR exposure, a cascade of different cellular responses is initiated, giving rise to inflammatory processes, oxidative stress, protein misfolding, and DNA lesions, among other effects. Therefore, there is a growing need to explore and characterize new compounds for safeguarding the skin from solar radiation-induced damage. In this work, we analyze the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory capacities of the Mn (II) quinone complex (4QMn) in different cellular models and human skin explants. Importantly, our results suggest that 4QMn is able to ameliorate the oxidative damage produced by protein aggregation by reducing ROS levels, mitochondrial ROS (MitoROS), and DNA oxidative damage (8OH-dG) in a protein accumulation model. These findings suggest that the 4QMn compound could mitigate the deleterious effects of different sources of oxidative damage.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-06-06
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030095
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 96: How Do Artificial Intelligence, Social Media
Platforms and Photo Editing Applications Influence Cosmetic Surgery
Choices—Literature Systematic Review and Prospective Study
Authors: Malek Benamor, Stefana Luca, Jed Bouguila, Oxana Madalina Grosu, Bianca Maria Avadani, Dan Cristian Moraru, Mihaela Pertea
First page: 96
Abstract: Background: In recent years, social media and AI have indirectly taken control of our daily lives. We bring attention to the impact that social networks, photo-editing applications, and artificial intelligence have on potential patients when they are looking for a surgeon for a possible cosmetic surgery, as well as the criteria they consider in relation to the interest in the use of the internet by surgeons. Methods: A systematic review of the past 10 years (2014–2024) was conducted following the PRISMA structure. PubMed and Google Scholar were searched for articles containing the following terms: plastic/esthetic surgery, social media, AI, filters, dysmorphia. All articles were saved using Zotero software version 6.0.37. We reported a prospective study including a 141 patients applying for esthetic surgical interventions in the time interval between February and October 2021. It also involved 44 esthetic surgeons from Tunisian clinics. The influence of social media was evaluated using questionnaires made based on the literature. Results: Using the keyword search, 71 articles were found. A total of 19 articles were selected for data extraction. It was observed that in the last 3 years, the literature has focused on photo-editing and AI in the cosmetic surgery field. A total of 107 patients chose their surgeon based on a surgeon’s social medias rather than their reputation and their website. Conclusions: The increased advancements of the internet have clearly influenced decision making in the field of cosmetic surgery.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-06-11
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030096
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 97: Exploring the In Vitro Antioxidant,
Anti-Aging, and Cytotoxic Properties of Kaempferia galanga Linn. Rhizome
Extracts for Cosmeceutical Formulations
Authors: Panikchar Wichayapreechar, Ranit Charoenjittichai, Anchalee Prasansuklab, Maria Pilar Vinardell, Wandee Rungseevijitprapa
First page: 97
Abstract: Kaempferia galanga Linn. (KG), a member of the family Zingiberaceae, is native to India, and commonly found in China, Indonesia, and Thailand. It has been used as a food condiment, folk medicine, and to relieve skin diseases due to its biological activities. However, its anti-aging effect has not yet been investigated. In this study, the rhizome of Kaempferia galanga Linn was extracted with solvents of different polarities (deionized water, absolute ethanol, ethyl acetate, and hexane). Phytochemical screening assay, total flavonoid and total phenolic contents, antioxidant activity (DPPH•, FRAP, ABTS +• assay), anti-aging activity (anti-collagenase, anti-elastase), and cell cytotoxicity on human dermal fibroblasts were investigated. The outcomes revealed that the extraction in highly polar solvents resulted in a high extract yield. Flavonoids, phenolic, and terpenoid compounds were detected in KG extracts using all extraction solvents. However, deionized water as a solvent exhibited the lowest level of flavonoids and phenolics, as compared to the other solvents. The highest total flavonoid and phenolic contents were achieved through extraction with absolute ethanol and ethyl acetate, respectively. Interestingly, the extract obtained with absolute ethanol exhibited the most potent antioxidant activities (the IC50 value of DPPH• was 0.612 mg/mL, the FRAP value was 62.79 mmol of Fe2+/g of extract, and TEAC value was 9.21 mg TE/g of extract in ABTS+• assay) and anti-aging properties (the percentages of collagenase inhibitory and elastase were 71.83%, and 66.35%, respectively). Regarding cell cytotoxicity, both KG extracts obtained with deionized water and absolute ethanol showed lower toxicity on human dermal fibroblasts compared to those obtained with ethyl acetate and hexane. Ethanol-based KG extract demonstrated a good antioxidant, anti-aging capacity and is considered safe for cosmeceutical products focused on anti-aging applications.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-06-13
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030097
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 98: Skin Care Function of Lactoferrin Was
Characterized Using Recombinant Human Epidermal Model
Authors: Tong Xie, Wu Qiao, Tinghan Jia, Ken Kaku
First page: 98
Abstract: The effect of lactoferrin on skin was simulated using a recombinant human epidermal model. The anti-inflammatory and soothing effect of lactoferrin was verified using IL-1α and TSLP Elisa assay. The effects of lactoferrin on the expression of related genes and proteins were detected using qPCR and immunofluorescence staining. The results showed that lactoferrin can effectively enhance the Transepidermal Electrical Resistance (TEER) and inhibit the secretion of inflammatory cytokine IL-1α and TSLP. In addition, it was confirmed using qPCR that lactoferrin had high expression levels on AQP3, FLG, IVL, CLDN1 and HAS1 genes. Immunofluorescence staining confirmed that lactoferrin had high fluorescence intensity and expression in AQP3, Filaggrin and Involucrin. The results showed that lactoferrin improved the skin barrier at higher than 1.5 mg/mL. At the same time, it can have anti-inflammatory and moisturizing effects. This study provides a strong basis for the application of lactoferrin in cosmetics and daily chemical products.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-06-15
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030098
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 99: Thermophilic Composting as a Means to
Evaluate the Biodegradability of Polymers Used in Cosmetic Formulations
Authors: Timothy W. Gillece, Helen K. Gerardi, Roger L. McMullen, William T. Thompson, Daniel H. Brown
First page: 99
Abstract: In the last decade, a growing demand for sustainable cosmetic ingredients has yielded numerous biodegradation protocols. While OECD (Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development) aquatic assays are suitable for water-borne chemicals, it is crucial for the personal care industry to consider the persistence of plastics in soil, compost, and municipal sludge. Adopting this cradle-to-grave holistic approach would strengthen product appeal while increasing the accuracy and ethical integrity of green product labeling. The aim of our study was to employ quantitative CO2 detection and thermophilic composting protocols specified in ASTM D5338, along with pass level criteria outlined in ASTM D6400, to assess the mineralization of plastics commonly formulated into personal care products. Our results indicate that many cellulose ethers, cationic guars, starches, proteins, and labile polyesters demonstrate satisfactory disintegration, biodegradation, and seed germination rates to secure an ASTM D6400 compostability claim. By contrast, macromolecules designed with carbon–carbon backbones resisted acceptable mineralization in composting experiments, advocating that unadulterated municipal compost lacks the microbial diversity to enzymatically digest many synthetically derived resins. Additionally, polymers that demonstrated acceptable biodegradability in internal and published OECD aquatic studies, including chitosan and polyvinyl alcohol, exhibited limited respiration in local municipal compost; hence, untested correlations between aquatic, soil, and compost testing outcomes should never be assumed.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-06-16
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030099
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 100: A Split-Face Comparison of Novel
Microneedle Patch versus Botulinum Toxin-A and Microneedle Patch for
Improvement in Undereye Skin Texture
Authors: Polen Te, Jitlada Meephansan, Punyaphat Sirithanabadeekul, Purit Pureesrisak, Kittipong Tantisantisom, Sattra Thongma, Yossawat Rayanasukha, Punyanuch Adulyaritthikul, Paisan Khanchaitit
First page: 100
Abstract: (1) Background: The emergence of microneedle patch technology and its development as a transdermal drug delivery platform have shown proven results in improving skin texture and appearance. This study was conducted to determine the efficacy of the microneedle patch (MNP)-only cosmesis of undereye skin texture and wrinkles against patch cosmesis with diluted botulinum toxin-A. (2) Methods: A total of 23 Thai females volunteered for this prospective clinical trial. Each participant was treated according to a split-face design, with the application of diluted botulinum toxin-A through MNP technology to the right undereye and a normal saline MNP application to the left undereye. Test areas were recorded at baseline and 2, 4, 8, 12, and 16 weeks after the initial treatment. (3) Results: Botulinum toxin-A was successfully delivered to the skin by MNP technology. After the initial treatment, these novel transdermal drug delivery patches significantly improved infraorbital hollowness at week 8 and wrinkles at week 16. In addition, the skin surface was markedly enhanced, with no adverse effects observed during the trial. (4) Conclusions: Novel MNPs are an effective and safe technology for use in the management of undereye skin aging. Combination treatment with botulinum toxin-A-impregnated devices gave a higher patient satisfaction than MNPs alone.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-06-17
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030100
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 101: Effects of CE Ferulic© Combined with
Microneedling in the Treatment of Pigmentary Disorders: A Monocentric,
Split Face, Comparative Study
Authors: Ilaria Proietti, Stefania Guida, Agnieszka Dybala, Alessandra Spagnoli, Concetta Potenza
First page: 101
Abstract: Pigmentary disorders of the face present a significant challenge in dermatology, impacting the confidence and well-being of affected individuals. Various approaches have been developed to address these concerns, including microneedling and topical vitamin C products. This study involved 15 participants undergoing three treatment sessions over 12 weeks, assessing the efficacy of a combined microneedling and CE Ferulic© serum approach. Clinical evaluation and statistical analysis were conducted before and after the intervention. Significant improvement of akin hyperpigmentation was observed, particularly on the side treated with microneedling and CE Ferulic© serum compared to microneedling alone. The integrated treatment protocol demonstrated a synergistic effect in improving skin texture and appearance. Integrated treatment protocols, such as combining microneedling with CE Ferulic© serum, show promise in managing facial hyperpigmentation disorders. Further research with larger cohorts is warranted to validate these findings and optimize treatment strategies, highlighting the potential of combined therapeutic modalities for achieving optimal clinical outcomes in pigmentary disorder management.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-06-17
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030101
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 102: Exploring the Use of Natural Ingredients
for the Protection of Textured Hair from Ultraviolet Radiation: An In
Vitro Study
Authors: Ewa Markiewicz, Olusola C. Idowu
First page: 102
Abstract: Human hair is characterized by significant diversity, which is dictated by the individual genetic makeup. It is estimated that up to 70% of the world’s population has textured hair, with a significant proportion also living in areas with high exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR). This highlights the unique requirements for textured hair care products that can protect hair shafts from the harmful effects of the environment whilst enhancing the natural features of the fibre. In this study, we investigated the UV-protective effects of hair conditioner formulated from active ingredients, mangiferin, ferulic acid and naringin. The analysis of UV-irradiated straight and textured hair was performed by measurements of hair thickness and darkness, the uptake of the fluorescent dye, spectral absorbance of keratin extracts, ATR-FTIR and SEM. We found that textured hair was more sensitive to UVR-induced changes than straight hair, with the primary molecular targets represented by chemical groups in keratins. Pre-treatment of the hair with conditioner had protective effects against structural damage and oxidative stress caused by UVR. These data indicate the importance of the personalized approach to hair research and the formulation of hair care products tailored to the individual demands of textured hair types.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-06-19
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030102
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 103: Establishing the Inhibition of the Serine
Protease Plasmin as a Skin Anti-Aging Pathway
Authors: Remo Campiche, Dominik Imfeld, Chennakesava Cuddapah, Leithe Budel, Mathias Gempeler
First page: 103
Abstract: Plasmin is a serine protease induced by UV-irradiation in skin that contributes to inflammation. We showed that plasmin is upregulated in photo-exposed facial skin and that this correlates with increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Plasmin activity upregulates downstream pathways such as pro-inflammatory cytokines and matrix-metalloproteinases (MMPs). In addition, the plasminogen system modulates cutaneous melanogenesis. In this study, we investigated potential skin-aging effects of plasmin with a dual inhibitor of plasmin and its activator urokinase (uPA). We established a range of in vitro and ex vivo assays to investigate inflammation, MMP-9 activation, and collagen modulation, and the melanogenesis modulation activity of plasmin. A specific plasmin inhibitor, Amidinobenzyl Benzylsulfonyl D-Seryl Homophenylalaninamide Acetate (ABSHA), was used in these assays to downregulate these effects. We found that ABSHA was able to down-regulate UV-irradiation-induced MMP-9 expression, and subsequent collagen IV degradation, ex vivo. In addition, the increased melanin synthesis in epidermal melanocytes was reduced significantly by ABSHA. Furthermore, dermal fibroblasts treated with the plasmin inhibitor showed increased collagen I synthesis. We further investigated these effects in a two-month, monocentric, placebo-controlled human study on female Chinese volunteers. We found a significant increase in collagen density by ultrasound measurement and an increase in elasticity by cutometer assessment in the group using a formulation consisting of a 10 ppm ABSHA solution. This resulted in decreased wrinkle volumes on both the forehead and crow’s feet as shown by Primos CR. Looking at age spots, there was a decrease in overall ITA° and melanin density as well as in the total age spot area. Our results establish plasmin as a skin-aging enzyme. Using specific inhibitors against plasmin shows promise against age-induced skin conditions.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-06-19
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030103
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 104: Development of an Antioxidant, Anti-Aging,
and Photoprotective Phytocosmetic from Discarded Agave sisalana Perrine
Roots
Authors: Guilherme dos Santos Mazo, Julia Amanda Rodrigues Fracasso, Luísa Taynara Silvério da Costa, Valdecir Farias Ximenes, Natália Alves Zoppe, Amanda Martins Viel, Lucas Pires Guarnier, Beatriz de Castro Silva, Luan Victor Coelho de Almeida, Lucinéia dos Santos
First page: 104
Abstract: The primary source of hard fiber globally is Agave sisalana Perrine, also known as sisal. In areas where sisal is grown, the roots of the plant are usually left in the field after it has stopped producing, which leads to soil degradation and decreased sisal productivity. It is, therefore, critical to find alternatives to reuse this waste. This study explores the potential use of sisal waste in the cosmetic industry by incorporating a hydroethanolic extract (HER) into a cream–gel formulation, taking advantage of the plant’s recognized ethnopharmacological value. The study involves analyzing the extract’s phytochemical composition (flavonoids) and evaluating its cytotoxicity. Subsequently, the antioxidant and antiglycation activities of the extract and cream–gel are evaluated, as well as ex vivo ocular toxicity, photoprotective activity, and preliminary stability analyses. The HER extract showed a flavonoid composition (catechin, kaempferol, isorhamnetin, and chrysin) and maintained cell viability above 70% throughout all time points analyzed in the MTT assay. Furthermore, the extract and the formulation demonstrated proven antioxidant and antiglycation activities. The cream–gel’s UVB and UVA protection effectiveness with the HER was comparable to that of synthetic UVB/UVA sunscreens, with the samples proving nonirritating and stable. In conclusion, the extract has a significant presence of flavonoids, and the cream–gel developed with it did not present cytotoxicity and met the stability requirements, indicating phytocosmetic potential with antioxidant, antiglycation, and photoprotective properties.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-06-20
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11030104
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 3 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 36: In and out Beauty and Sensitive Skin, a
Psychophysiological Exploration: Myth or Reality'
Authors: Leila Falcao, Rachida Nachat-Kappes, Edith Filaire
First page: 36
Abstract: Knowing that biomolecules, such as β-amyrin and α-amyrin, have some pharmacological effects, the aim of this study was directed towards exploring the protective effect of Tomato Peel and Seed Extract (TPSE) for its soothing function but also for its capacity to modulate the adrenal axis, which is involved in stress response. Ex vivo tests were carried out on skin explants to evaluate the effectiveness of TPSE formulated at 0.5% on Calcitonin Gene-Related Peptide (CGRP) and IL-10 release, Kappa Opioid Receptor (KOR), and Caspase 14 expression. An in vivo study combined a clinical evaluation of skin homogeneity and psychological parameters as well as an analysis of salivary cortisol and dehydroepiandrosterone concentrations. All measurements were carried out at the beginning and after 28 days of applying a TPSE face cream. TPSE regulated not only the release of CGRP, IL-10, and the expression of Caspase 14, reflecting anti-neurogenic and anti-inflammatory properties, but also modulated KORs. Twenty-eight days of TPSE application induced a significant decrease in intensity and extent erythrosis, a lower output of salivary cortisol, and a significant increase in pleasant emotions when compared to placebo. These results provide encouragement to continue exploring the impact of cosmetic ingredients on psychophysiological parameters to improve skin health and well-being.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-03-01
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020036
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 37: Promising Functions of Novel Vitamin D
Derivatives as Cosmetics: A New Fountain of Youth in Skin Aging and Skin
Protection
Authors: Zorica Janjetovic, Andrzej T. Slominski
First page: 37
Abstract: Vitamin D is a natural photoproduct that has many beneficial effects on different organs, including skin. Active forms of vitamin D and its derivatives exert biological effects on skin cells, thus maintaining skin homeostasis. In keratinocytes, they inhibit proliferation and stimulate differentiation, have anti-inflammatory properties, act as antioxidants, inhibit DNA damage and stimulate DNA repair after ultraviolet (UV) exposure. In melanocytes, they also inhibit cell proliferation, inhibit apoptosis and act as antioxidants. In fibroblasts, they inhibit cell proliferation, affect fibrotic processes and collagen production, and promote wound healing and regeneration. On the other hand, skin cells have the ability to activate vitamin D directly. These activities, along with the projected topical application of vitamin D derivatives, are promising for skin care and photo protection and can be used in the prevention or possible reversal of skin aging.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-03-01
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020037
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 38: Patchouli Alcohol: A Potent Tyrosinase
Inhibitor Derived from Patchouli Essential Oil with Potential in the
Development of a Skin-Lightening Agent
Authors: K. J. Senthil Kumar, M. Gokila Vani, Muthusamy Chinnasamy, Wan-Teng Lin, Sheng-Yang Wang
First page: 38
Abstract: The inhibitory effects of Pogostemon cablin essential oil (patchouli essential oil, PEO) and its primary bioactive compound, patchouli alcohol (PA), on tyrosinase and melanin were investigated in vitro and ex vivo. Treatment with PEO and PA significantly, as well as dose-dependently, reduced forskolin (FRK)-induced melanin biosynthesis, cellular tyrosinase activity, and tyrosinase (TYR) protein expression. However, the transcriptional levels of TYR and tyrosinase-related proteins (TRP-1 and TRP-2) remained unaffected. These results suggest that PEO and PA may directly interrupt tyrosinase enzyme activity, leading to a reduction in melanin biosynthesis. Further experiments supported this notion, revealing that both PEO and PA significantly and dose-dependently inhibited mushroom tyrosinase activity in both the monophenolase and diphenolase phases. Additionally, an in silico molecular docking analysis was performed, utilizing a homology model of human tyrosinase. In conclusion, these findings strongly suggest that patchouli essential oil and its primary bioactive component, patchouli alcohol, hold promise as potential treatments for hyperpigmentary skin conditions and in the development of cosmetic products designed to lighten the skin.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-03-05
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020038
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 39: A Hylocereus undatus Extract Enhances Skin
Microbiota Balance and Delivers In-Vivo Improvements in Skin Health and
Beauty
Authors: Fabien Havas, Shlomo Krispin, Moshe Cohen, Joan Attia-Vigneau
First page: 39
Abstract: Skin microbiota, and its diversity and balance, play a key role in skin health and beauty, influencing skin moisture, barrier function, and radiance. A healthy skin microbiota limits the growth of detrimental species, protecting the skin from pathologies. Prebiotics can support beneficial populations in outcompeting detrimental ones. Dragon fruit (Hylocereus undatus) contains prebiotic polysaccharides effective on gut bacteria. Its extract was tested in vitro, in a coculture model including representative beneficial and detrimental species, and in double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trials. Effects on the skin microbiota were measured via 16S rDNA sequencing, and skin health and beauty benefits were evaluated through image analysis, TEWL measurement, and chromametry. Doppler flowmetry measured skin resilience. The extract supported S. epidermidis and S. hominis (beneficial species), while limiting S. aureus and C. acnes (representing pathogens) in vitro. Clinical results demonstrated its beneficial effects on skin microbiota diversity, especially in older volunteers (Faith’s index up to +20% vs. placebo). Improvements were shown in skin sensitivity and resilience (by ca. 30% vs. placebo), skin redness (reflecting inflammation status), pigmentation and radiance (+11% ITA), barrier function (−13% TEWL), and wrinkling. This demonstrates this extract’s positive effects on the beauty, health, and microbiota balance of the skin.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-03-07
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020039
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 40: Formulation and Characterization of
Niacinamide and Collagen Emulsion and Its Investigation as a Potential
Cosmeceutical Product
Authors: Elena Dănilă, Durmuș Alpaslan Kaya, Valentina Anuța, Lăcrămioara Popa, Alina Elena Coman, Ciprian Chelaru, Rodica Roxana Constantinescu, Cristina Dinu-Pîrvu, Mădălina Georgiana Albu Kaya, Mihaela Violeta Ghica
First page: 40
Abstract: Cosmeceuticals are one of the fast-growing areas of the natural personal care industry. Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with medicinal or drug-like benefits that can affect the biological functioning of the skin depending on the ingredients in the composition. The development of one formulation acting on the dermis and stimulating the collagen production is very important for the hydration of the skin. The association of collagen with other ingredients can have a positive effect on increasing the natural production of collagen in the skin. An example of such an ingredient is niacinamide, which, having a recognized nutritional value, has been quite recently studied. Considering these aspects, this study focused on developing oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, based on natural ingredients (vegetable oils, floral waters, and essential oils) and hydrolyzed collagen and niacinamide as active ingredients, and on evaluating the stability, pH, optical, superficial, rheological and textural properties, as well as microbiological tests of the emulsions, in order to investigate their potential as a cosmeceutical product. All the obtained emulsions proved to be stable at variable temperatures and had a pH value compatible with natural pH of the skin, allowing their safe application. Over goniometric analysis, a partial wetting and a hydrophilic character of the emulsions were emphasized. Following the rheological analyses, all dermatocosmetic emulsions exhibited non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behavior and a thixotropic character, these properties being very important for their production process and their application on the skin surface to generate an optimal therapeutic effect. The textural characteristics recorded for all emulsions indicated adequate spreadability at the application site. All tested samples respected the Pharmacopoeia limits of microbiological contamination. All prepared emulsions have good stability, are safe for the skin and have appropriate physicochemical and microbiological characteristics; therefore, they can be used as a cosmeceutical product.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-03-08
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020040
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 41: Olive Leaves and Citrus Peels: From Waste to
Potential Resource for Cosmetic Products
Authors: Nicola d’Avanzo, Antonia Mancuso, Rosario Mare, Antonio Silletta, Samantha Maurotti, Ortensia Ilaria Parisi, Maria Chiara Cristiano, Donatella Paolino
First page: 41
Abstract: Resource depletion and food waste accumulation represent a tremendous socio-economic and environmental problem. One promising strategy involves the use of byproducts derived from food waste as ingredients for cosmetic products. The aim of this work is to propose clementine peels and olive leaf extracts as value-added bioproducts for a cosmetic cream. Extracts were obtained by super critical extraction showing an antioxidant activity of ca. 25%. No cytotoxic effects of the extracts were recorded on keratinocyte cells up to a concentration of 4% v/v ratio within 24 h. The incorporation of clementine peels and olive leaf extracts into creams did not compromise their stability, as demonstrated by Turbiscan analyses at room and extreme (40 °C) storage conditions. The safety profiles of the final cosmetic formulations were further in vivo demonstrated on human volunteers. We analyzed the trans-epidermal water loss and variation of the skin’s erythematous index, which showed profiles that almost overlapped with the negative control. Moreover, rheological analysis of the resulting creams evidences their suitable spreadability with similar pseudoplastic profiles, although a slight reduction of viscosity was recorded by improving the extracts’ concentrations. The proposed approach highlights the advantage of combining byproduct resources and supercritical fluid extraction to obtain a safe and eco-friendly face cream.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-03-08
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020041
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 42: What Are the Factors That Enable Thread
Lifting to Last Longer'
Authors: Gi-Woong Hong, Hyewon Hu, Soo-Yeon Park, Jovian Wan, Kyu-Ho Yi
First page: 42
Abstract: Thread-lifting traditionally addressed aging-related skin laxity by leveraging precise thread placement and traction. However, recent advancements, notably cog threads, expanded its application to younger patients seeking facial contour refinement. These newer threads effectively lift sagging areas and refine facial contours, broadening the procedure’s appeal. Challenges arise in selecting threads due to variable physician preferences and patient needs. Clear indications for thread efficacy are vital for credibility and tailored selection. Thread choice depends on tissue laxity, necessitating lighter threads for minimal laxity and stronger ones for significant sagging. However, no single thread universally suits all cases. Combining different threads is favored for optimal outcomes and minimizing side effects. Excessive traction post-procedure may lead to prolonged discomfort and skin irregularities. Post-procedural tension adjustments through massage remain debated, potentially conflicting with minimally invasive principles. Understanding thread characteristics guides tailored selection, considering patient conditions and procedural goals. This comprehensive understanding extends beyond specific products, aiming for optimal outcomes in thread-lifting procedures. Key factors influencing outcomes encompass thread materials, thickness, cog shapes, insertion depth, lifting vectors, and absorbable thread expiration dates.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-03-12
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020042
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 43: Inhibitory Effect of 2-Aza-8-oxohypoxanthine
on Tyrosinase Activity and Melanin Production
Authors: Hisae Aoshima, Ruka Mizuno, Yuho Iwatsu, Shiori Onishi, Sayuri Hyodo, Rinta Ibuki, Hirokazu Kawagishi, Yasukazu Saitoh
First page: 43
Abstract: A fairy chemical, 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine, has exhibited broad effects on skin barrier function, leading to its launch as a cosmetic ingredient. A clinical trial on a lotion containing 0.1% 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine demonstrated the ability of this chemical to increase skin lightness based on the analysis of L* values. In the present study, to elucidate the mechanism underlying the increase in skin lightness, we aimed to investigate the effect of 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine on murine melanoma cell lines, focusing on its influence on tyrosinase activity and melanin production. Our findings revealed that the addition of 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine inhibited tyrosinase activity by 13% compared with the untreated control. Similarly, melanin production was suppressed by 36% compared with the control. These results strongly suggest that the inhibition of tyrosinase effectively suppressed melanin production. Thus, 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine acts by inhibiting tyrosinase and melanin production to promote skin lightening. This study provides novel insights into the skin-lightening mechanism of 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine, demonstrating its ability to inhibit melanin production through the suppression of pro-inflammatory factors, thereby highlighting its potential as an effective cosmetic ingredient for lightening skin tone.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-03-13
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020043
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 44: Topical Peroxisome Proliferator-Activated
Receptor Agonist Induces Molecular Alterations Enhancing Barrier Function
and Water-Holding Capacity of the Human Stratum Corneum In Vivo
Authors: Maxim E. Darvin, Andrew Salazar, Johannes Schleusener, Jürgen Lademann, Jörg von Hagen
First page: 44
Abstract: The peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR) ligands modulate a variety of skin functions but are rarely used in cosmetics. The aim of this double-blind, placebo-controlled, in vivo study was to determine the effect of a topically applied 0.1% PPAR ligand on the composition and physiological parameters of the stratum corneum (SC). By comparing verum and placebo groups post-treatment, we demonstrate (via lipidomic analysis of tape strips) an unstatistically significant trend toward an increase in long-chain triacylglycerols (C50–C56) and medium- and long-chain ceramides (C42–C50) at the superficial SC. By comparing treated and untreated skin using confocal Raman microspectroscopy, we found that the changes in lipid composition in the verum group led to a significant increase in the number of trans conformers and orthorhombic organisation of lipids at the exemplary SC depth. An increase in unfolded states in the secondary and tertiary keratin structures results in an increased ability to bind water. The concentrations of tightly and strongly bound water increase, while weakly bound and unbound water decrease in the entire SC, indicating a transformation of water mobility to a state of increased hydrogen bonding. Thus, the topical PPAR ligands improve the water-holding capacity and the barrier function of the SC.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-03-14
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020044
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 45: Anti-Aging Properties of Cannabis sativa
Leaf Extract against UVA Irradiation
Authors: Kunlathida Luangpraditkun, Preeyanuch Pimjuk, Preeyawass Phimnuan, Wisanee Wisanwattana, Chothip Wisespongpand, Neti Waranuch, Jarupa Viyoch
First page: 45
Abstract: Hemp extract has garnered interest as a potential cosmeceutical agent with multifunctional activities, particularly in protecting against UV-induced skin cell aberrations and restoring aged skin cells. The ethanolic extract of Cannabis sativa leaves was prepared into an aqueous solution (CLES) to investigate its anti-photoaging ability. HPLC analysis revealed that the CLES contained 1.64 ± 0.01% w/w of cannabidiol and 0.11% w/w of ∆9-tetrahydrocannabinol. Additionally, the total phenolic content was found to be 4.08 ± 0.30 mg gallic acid equivalent per g of solution using the Folin–Ciocalteu method. The CLES exhibited potent scavenging activity using a DPPH assay, with an EC50 value of 277.9 ± 2.41 μg/mL, comparable to L-ascorbic acid, with 2.19 ± 0.28 μg/mL. The anti-photoaging potential of the CLES was evaluated using UVA-irradiated and in vitro-aged fibroblasts as a model. Pre-treatment with 20 μg/mL CLES for 24 h significantly alleviated the reduction in type I procollagen and suppressed the overproduction of MMP-1 and IL-6 induced by UVA. Moreover, the percentage of senescence-associated β-galactosidase-expressing cells decreased significantly to 11.9 ± 0.5% in the aged cells treated with CLES compared with untreated cells (18.8 ± 3.8%). These results strongly indicate the cosmeceutical potential of the CLES as an effective active agent for the anti-photoaging prevention and/or treatment.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-03-18
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020045
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 46: In Vitro Investigation of the Cytotoxic and
Antiproliferative Effects of Haberlea rhodopensis Total Extract: A
Comparative Study
Authors: Martina I. Peeva, Maya G. Georgieva, Aneliya A. Balacheva, Atanas Pavlov, Nikolay T. Tzvetkov
First page: 46
Abstract: Haberlea rhodopensis Friv., known also as Rhodope silivryak and the Orpheus flower, is a Balkan endemic “resurrecting” plant belonging to the Gesneriaceae family. In folk medicine, the leaves of Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. were widely used to treat wounds and some infectious diseases of stock such as foot-and-mouth disease and hoof rot, while the herb of Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. is still used to cleanse the stomach, liver, kidneys, and blood vessels. Because of the content of myconoside, during the last decade, Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. extracts have been recognized as valuable cosmetic ingredients. In the present study, we aim to (i) evaluate the cytotoxic and antiproliferative activity of two herb extracts of Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. that are commercially used for the preparation of cosmetic ingredients on different cancer cells, with one normal cell line used as a reference, and (ii) compare the investigated effects with those observed for the reference anticancer, non-selective compound doxorubicin. Herein, we observed a decrease in the inhibitory activity of both extracts compared to those of doxorubicin against all tested cell lines. However, the myconoside-enriched Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. plant Extract 2 (designated also as M2) showed increased inhibitory activity (cytotoxicity and antiproliferative effects) compared to the Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. plant Extract 1 (designated also as E1). Moreover, the Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. plant Extract 2 showed a significant increase in cytotoxicity (at 24 h) and antiproliferative activity (at 48 and 72 h post-treatment) at its highest-tested concentration of 100 µg/mL compared to Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. plant Extract 1.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-03-21
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020046
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 47: Innovative Strategies for Photoallergy
Assessment: Breaking Free from Animal Models in Cosmetic Ingredient
Development
Authors: Adriana Solange Maddaleno, Maria Pilar Vinardell, Montserrat Mitjans
First page: 47
Abstract: Photoallergy, a unique form of skin sensitization induced by specific compounds under ultraviolet irradiation, has traditionally been investigated using animals. However, the prohibition of animal testing for the assessment of cosmetic ingredients in Europe and other countries underscores the necessity for in vitro or in silico alternative methods. Currently, there are no validated methods for assessing photoallergy or photosensitization, presenting a significant challenge in the development of new cosmetic ingredients. This review examines the landscape of alternative methods for detecting photosensitization, emphasizing recent publications, and considering the underlying principles of the different proposed assays.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-03-25
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020047
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 48: A Comprehensive Review of Essential
Oil–Nanotechnology Synergy for Advanced Dermocosmetic Delivery
Authors: Redouane Achagar, Zouhair Ait-Touchente, Rafika El Ati, Khalid Boujdi, Abderrahmane Thoume, Achraf Abdou, Rachid Touzani
First page: 48
Abstract: This review investigates the convergence of nanotechnology and essential oils in advanced dermocosmetic delivery. It outlines the pivotal role of inorganic and polymeric nanoparticles, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and gold nanocarriers, in cosmeceutical applications, facilitating slow release, deeper skin penetration, and increased retention of active compounds. Essential oils, renowned for therapeutic benefits, face translation challenges due to volatility and low water solubility. This review explores the potential use of plant nanovesicles as carriers, emphasizing safety, stability, and scalability, offering a sustainable and cost-effective industrial application. Nanomaterial integration in consumer products, particularly cosmetics, is prevalent, with nanocarriers enhancing the permeation of bioactive compounds into deeper skin layers. The review emphasizes recent nanotechnological advancements, covering nanoparticle penetration, experimental models, and therapeutic applications in dermatology, ranging from non-invasive vaccination to transdermal drug delivery. Additionally, the review delves into nanomaterials’ role in addressing skin aging, focusing on tissue regeneration. Nanomaterials loaded with cosmeceuticals, such as phytochemicals and vitamins, are explored as promising solutions to mitigate signs of aging, including wrinkles and dry skin, providing innovative approaches to skin rejuvenation. Overall, the review offers a comprehensive synthesis of essential oil–nanoparticle synergy, shedding light on the current landscape and future potential of advanced dermocosmetic delivery systems.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-03-27
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020048
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 49: Advancements in Regenerative Medicine for
Aesthetic Dermatology: A Comprehensive Review and Future Trends
Authors: Federica Trovato, Stefano Ceccarelli, Simone Michelini, Giordano Vespasiani, Stefania Guida, Hassan Ibrahim Galadari, Steven Paul Nisticò, Laura Colonna, Giovanni Pellacani
First page: 49
Abstract: The growing interest in maintaining a youthful appearance has encouraged an accelerated development of innovative, minimally invasive aesthetic treatments for facial rejuvenation and regeneration. The close correlation between tissue repair, regeneration, and aging has paved the way for the application of regenerative medicine principles in cosmetic dermatology. The theoretical substrates of regenerative medicine applications in dermo-aesthetics are plentiful. However, regenerative dermatology is an emerging field and needs more data and in vivo trials to reach a consensus on the standardization of methods. In this review, we summarize the principles of regenerative medicine and techniques as they apply to cosmetic dermatology, suggesting unexplored fields and future directions.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-03-31
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020049
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 50: Histological, Clinical Assessment, and
Treatment of a Permanent Filler Complication in the Upper Lip: A Case
Report with 16-Year Follow-Up
Authors: Samuel Fiuza, Tiago Marques, Irving Padin, Maria Teresa Carvalho, Nelio Veiga, Juliana Campos Hasse Fernandes, Gustavo Vicentis Oliveira Fernandes, Patrícia Couto
First page: 50
Abstract: There is a considerable increase in the use of substances and medical procedures aimed at changing the esthetics of the face, particularly the appearance of the lips. Permanent fillers such as polydimethylsiloxane, also called liquid silicone, are widely used, but their application for facial esthetics is currently obsolete. Silicone belongs to this polymer family; its viscosity is determined by its degree of polymerization. Liquid injectable silicone is odorless, colorless, non-volatile, and oily to the touch. The substance is not altered by storage at room temperature and is not carcinogenic or teratogenic. However, the long-term complications remain a reality, as they can occur decades after the application. Thus, the goal of this case report was to present a complication after 16 years of treatment using liquid silicone. This case report involved a 52-year-old male with a complication of bilateral permanent filler in the upper lip performed 16 years ago, its surgical removal, and histological analysis. The patient had the first appointment at the University Dental Clinic—Universidade Católica Portuguesa (Viseu, Portugal) in April 2022, dissatisfied with his upper lip’s esthetic appearance and shape. He was not a smoker or diabetic but had hypertension and hypercholesterolemia and was medicated with Losartan, Hydrochlorothiazide, and Pitavastatin. No relevant findings were observed in the extraoral examination; he had bruxism and a good periodontal condition. The patient had an asymptomatic bilateral mass, hard to palpation, located on the upper lip due to permanent lip filling performed to increase its volume in 2006 associated with non-related generalized granules of Fordyce. The treatment options presented just observation or complete material removal in two surgical steps, which was the patient’s choice. Then, the first surgical procedure was performed under local anesthesia on the right side of the lip, one carpule of Lidocaine 2% with adrenaline 1:100,000, with a chalazion clamp, a diode laser for hemorrhagic control, and a simple suture. In this procedure, three fragments were biopsied: a cuboid measuring 1 × 1 × 0.8 cm and an irregular one consisting of two fragments that at one end of the piece were in continuity with each other, one measuring 1.6 × 0.5 × 0.4 cm and the other 2.5 × 0.6 × 0.5 cm. A similar macroscopic appearance in all the material, white in color, irregular surface, elastic, white section surface, or slightly fasciculate. The patient was medicated with Tylenol 500 mg thrice a day for two days. With 20-day intervals, the sutures from the first surgery were removed, as well as the foreign body from the upper lip on the left side, following the same surgical technique and medication. Histologically, it was possible to identify a chronic inflammatory, lymphoplasmacytic, and granulomatous reaction, with foreign body giant cells’ reaction, in relation to non-polarizable exogenous material due to the reaction to silicone. The most common complications are granulomas’ appearance and material displacement. The case report shows these granulomas are characterized as chronic low-caliber inflammation around the silicone. They have an unknown etiology but are probably multifactorial, from continuous trauma, friction or irritation, iatrogenic factors, infection, immunological mechanisms, and genetic and molecular variations, and can be highly related to the impurity of the injected material. This case brings the opportunity for health professionals to increase awareness of the long-term adverse effects of the silicone material used to fill the lip in order to make its application more predictable and conscious.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-04-01
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020050
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 51: Recent Advances in Microneedling-Assisted
Cosmetic Applications
Authors: Rania Hamed, Baraah Jehad Abu Nahia, Ahlam Zaid Alkilani, Yasmeen Al-Adhami, Rana Obaidat
First page: 51
Abstract: Microneedling, also known as percutaneous collagen induction, using microneedling devices and fabricated microneedle patches, has been widely employed in cosmetic applications for acne scar treatment, skin care, hair loss, melasma, skin rejuvenation, and skin cancer. The micro-channels formed by microneedling through the stratum corneum facilitate the delivery of cosmetic agents and stimulate collagen and elastin production by inducing the wound-healing cascade, keeping the skin shiny and wrinkle-free. Several cosmetic agents, such as ascorbic acid, hyaluronic acid, retinoids, niacinamide, and peptides, have been delivered by microneedling. This review aims to highlight the use of microneedling devices and fabricated microneedle patches in facilitating the delivery of cosmetic agents through the skin layers. Moreover, the differences between the microneedling devices, commonly used alone or in combinational treatments with topical formulations, are explored. Furthermore, the safety of microneedling in terms of skin irritation, pain sensation, skin or systemic infection, and chemical and biological materials used in the fabrication of microneedles is discussed.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-04-02
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020051
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 52: A Sustainable Multistage Process for
Immobilizing Bioactive Compounds on Layered Double Hydroxides
Authors: Serena Coiai, Elisa Passaglia, Alice Telleschi, Werner Oberhauser, Maria-Beatrice Coltelli, Francesca Cicogna
First page: 52
Abstract: Hybrid systems with antioxidant properties have been developed by integrating bioactive compounds derived from plant resources with layered double hydroxides (LDHs). Anion exchange has been used to substitute intercalated nitrate anions in Mg-Al LDH with carboxylate anions derived from trans-ferulic acid, rosmarinic acid, and 18β-glycyrrhetinic acid. These organic compounds are known for their powerful antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties and are highly suitable for cosmetics, biomedicine, and food packaging. To enhance sustainability, a multistage procedure has been developed with the aim of recovering unexchanged carboxylate anions from residual reaction water, ensuring an environmentally friendly and easily scalable preparation process. The process, adapted for each of the three molecules, allows the production of a consistently high-quality hybrid product containing an organic fraction ranging from 10 to 48% by weight, depending on the specific molecule used. The immobilization of organic compounds has occurred either within the layers of LDH through intercalation or on the external surface through adsorption. Good antioxidant capacity has been exhibited by these powdered hybrid systems, as assessed through both the DPPH and linoleic acid/β-carotene tests. Sustainable production practices are enabled by this innovative approach, which also opens avenues for the development of advanced materials for diverse applications across various industries.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-04-02
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020052
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 53: Unlocking the Potential: A Comprehensive
Analysis of the Technological Properties and Consumer Perception of
Shampoo Enriched with Patchouli Extract and Allantoin
Authors: Ugnė Žlabienė, Erlita Bartkutė, Jurga Bernatonienė
First page: 53
Abstract: Amidst a growing shift towards eco-friendly choices in personal care products, the challenge of formulating herbal shampoos with efficacy comparable to synthetic counterparts persists. This study investigates the potential of incorporating patchouli extract and allantoin as additives in anti-dandruff shampoo formulations, assessing their impact on the technological properties of the product. With limited research on their efficacy, our investigation contributes valuable insights to the development of effective and consumer-friendly shampoos targeting dandruff concerns. Physicochemical characteristics (pH, surface tension, texture) were evaluated, alongside specific quality assessments such as wetting time, dirt dispersion, foaming, and cleaning action, in in vivo consumer research. Shampoo formulations incorporating 0.5% Patchoul’Up™ and 1% allantoin exhibited acceptable properties. However, the addition of plant-derived ingredients resulted in a beneficial decrease in surface tension (5.87%). Nevertheless, a decrease in cohesiveness (18%) over a 5-month period resulted in rheological changes, indicating potential instability (p < 0.05). While the consumer evaluation aligns with laboratory findings, continuous research is essential to ensure stability and validate the anti-dandruff potential of the formulation, both in vitro and in vivo. This involves expanding the number of volunteers, with a specific focus on individuals experiencing dandruff concerns, to assess the shampoo’s efficacy and impact on diverse user experiences.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-04-02
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020053
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 54: Current Knowledge and Regulatory Framework
on the Use of Hyaluronic Acid for Aesthetic Injectable Skin Rejuvenation
Treatments
Authors: Jenny Allen, Kalliopi Dodou
First page: 54
Abstract: Dermal injections of hyaluronic acid gel for aesthetic skin rejuvenation are becoming increasingly popular nowadays. Although these products are classified as medical devices, the regulations on their administration by licensed practitioners are still weak, whereas their manufacturers increasingly highlight and advertise the cellular effects that underpin the efficacy of these injections. In this review, we discuss all current knowledge on the mode of action of dermally injected hyaluronic acid and the potential toxicological implications, especially from crosslinked gels, in conjunction with the current global regulations. We also highlight the urgent need for further research to elucidate the therapeutic implications and underscore the imperative need for robust regulatory frameworks to safeguard public health. We conclude that dermal injections of hyaluronic acid have several therapeutic implications that warrant further research and that strict regulations must be applied to their manufacture/quality control and the required qualifications of licensed aesthetic injectors.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-04-03
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020054
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 55: Wigs and Alopecia Areata: Psychosocial
Impact and Economic Considerations
Authors: Ashling Courtney, John C. Su
First page: 55
Abstract: Alopecia areata (AA) presents a challenging and unpredictable condition associated with substantial psychosocial and financial burdens. A chronic, relapsing form of non-scarring hair loss, it affects approximately 0.1–0.2% of the population worldwide with a lifetime risk of 1.0% to 2.1%. The psychosocial implications of AA, including its association with depression, anxiety, social phobia, employment disruption, and relationship challenges are well described . Significant economic costs of AA include those of healthcare, lost income, transportation, psychotherapy, and cosmetic accessories (wigs and hairpieces). However, wigs and hairpieces can contribute to enhanced self-esteem, confidence, and overall quality of life (QOL) in AA patients; these positive outcomes correlating with satisfaction in appearance. This article explores the role of wigs in addressing the aesthetic and emotional impact of AA, emphasizing their importance as potential coping mechanisms for individuals facing hair loss whilst also acknowledging possible barriers to their use. Different types of wigs and hairpieces, their respective advantages and disadvantages, and methods of attachment are thoroughly discussed, providing a comprehensive overview for both patients and healthcare professionals. Considering the economic impact of AA, this article explores the cost of wigs in Australia and available financial assistance programs. Wigs can play a pivotal role in rapidly addressing the multifaceted challenges posed by AA, offering time for psychosocial adaptation and delayed response to medical therapies. This review aims to provide valuable insights to inform evidence-based, practical, and personalized counselling of patients with AA and enable shared decision making about the utility of wigs and other cosmetic interventions for hair loss. Further research is warranted to explore differences in the optimal utilization of wigs between diverse sub-populations with AA.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-04-03
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020055
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 56: Permanent Makeup (PMU) Removal with Plant
Origin Extracts
Authors: Eleni Andreou, Efstathios Rallis, Sophia Hatziantoniou, Vasiliki Kefala
First page: 56
Abstract: Permanent makeup (PMU) is a popular application for the correction of face and body imperfections. It can be applied over the facial area to correct the shape and color of eyebrows, to the eyelids to create permanent eyeliner shapes, and the lips to create permanent lipliner and lip shading features. Furthermore, its “medical” use on the scalp and men’s facial hair area to camouflage hair follicles and to cover hairless areas makes it popular for hair transplants. No matter how useful these procedures are, there are always mistakes and the factor of bad application which raises the number of patients who want to “remove” it or “correct” it on their face or body. In order to find a non-laser solution for PMU removal, we investigated the decolorization capacity of common plants and plant origin extracts on mouse models. Two methods were used for PMU decolorization. The first one included the use of traditional tattooing with needles combined with plant origin extracts applied over the tattooed area. The second one included the use of electroporation technology application with the combination of plant origin materials to remove the PMU colorants over the tattooed area. In both cases, the permanent makeup colorants for eyebrows, eyeliners, and lipliners were applied in vivo.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-04-03
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020056
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 57: Nanoemulsions Containing Passiflora
quadrangularis L. Fruit Extracts for Cosmetic Application and Skin
Efficacy Study
Authors: Nareekan Yanasan, Worrapon Wangkananon, Surapol Natakankitkul, Kanokwan Kiattisin
First page: 57
Abstract: This study aimed to determine the anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and anti-hyaluronidase activities of Passiflora quadrangularis fruit extracts (epicarp, mesocarp, endocarp, and seed), develop stable nanoemulsions, and evaluate the efficacy of the nanoemulsions containing extracts in human volunteers. The results indicated that the epicarp and seed extracts exhibited collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition effects. Gallic acid was identified in the extracts, with the highest concentration found in the endocarp extract (1449.35 mg gallic acid/g extract) followed by the seed extract (839.63 mg gallic acid/g extract). The endocarp and seed extracts demonstrated good stability at different temperatures. Consequently, these extracts were selected for incorporation into nanoemulsions due to their high yield, excellent anti-tyrosinase and anti-aging activity, and good stability, making them suitable for cosmetic products. The nanoemulsions were prepared using the ultrasonication method, resulting in a particle size of 133.1 ± 0.8 nm, a polydispersity index of 0.33 ± 0.03, and a zeta potential of −61.8 ± 0.6 mV, indicating good stability. The nano-serum containing extracts was non-irritating and safe for the skin. Skin evaluation among human volunteers after 60 days of application revealed improvements in skin hydration and reduction in wrinkles. In conclusion, nanoemulsions containing P. quadrangularis fruit extracts have the potential to be effective cosmetic products.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-04-04
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020057
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 58: Development of a Ready-to-Use
Oxyresveratrol-Enriched Extract from Artocarpus lakoocha Roxb. Using
Greener Solvents and Deep Eutectic Solvents for a Whitening Agent
Authors: Saesue, Thanomrak, Prompan, Punan, Khorana, Juprasert, Rungsang, Thong-on, Srivilai
First page: 58
Abstract: Oxyresveratrol (ORV) is naturally found in Artocapus lakoocha Roxb. (AL), similar to resveratrol. This AL extract has demonstrated considerable importance in dietary supplements and cosmetics for its anti-tyrosinase and antioxidant properties. There is a great demand for ORV in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Traditionally, harsh solvents have been used to extract ORV from AL. This study aims to address this issue by introducing green technology with a ready-to-use extract for the enrichment of ORV extraction from AL using deep eutectic solvents (DESs). Thirty-three DESs were synthesized and characterized. The extraction efficiency of these DESs was evaluated by ORV content (g ORV/kg dried plant) and compared with the conventional solvents, analyzed by validated HPLC. Notably, two synthesized DESs, namely choline chloride/citric acid/water (2:1:3) (DES10) and choline chloride/xylose (1:1) (DES17), showed higher ORV content than the conventional solvents and were therefore selected for optimization of extraction conditions using Box–Behnken designs, considering three variable levels: time, temperature, and water as co-solvents. Interestingly, the biological activities of ORV-enriched extracts from DES10 and DES17 were evaluated, and the results showed that they were 74-fold and 252-fold more potent than kojic acid in terms of tyrosinase inhibitory activity. DES17 was 17- fold more potent antioxidants than ascorbic acid. The morphology of AL powder before and after extraction with DESs under SEM suggested that DESs have the same mechanism as classical organic solvents. These ORV-enriched extracts can be directly incorporated into cosmetic formulations and production scales without the need to prepare a stock solution and are therefore referred to as ready-to-use extracts. This study successfully pioneered the use of DESs for environmentally friendly and highly efficient ORV extraction from AL to produce ready-to-use extracts and applications for the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-04-05
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020058
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 59: Formulation and Characterization of
Non-Toxic, Antimicrobial, and Alcohol-Free Hand Sanitizer Nanoemulgel
Based on Lemon Peel Extract
Authors: Faten Mohamed Ibrahim, Eman Samy Shalaby, Mohamed Azab El-Liethy, Sherif Abd-Elmaksoud, Reda Sayed Mohammed, Said I. Shalaby, Cristina V. Rodrigues, Manuela Pintado, El Sayed El Habbasha
First page: 59
Abstract: Recently, hand sanitization has gained attention for preventing disease transmission. Many on-the-market convenient dermal sanitizers contain alcohol, which can be detrimental to the skin. Therefore, three nanoemulgel formulations (LN-F1, LN-F2, LN-F3) incorporating lemon peel extract (LE), and with various increasing concentrations of xanthan gum as a gelling agent and stabilizer, were developed and characterized as a novel alternative. All formulations showed non-Newtonian shear-thinning flow behavior, particle size values below 200 nm, and increasing zeta potential with higher xanthan gum concentrations. All nanoemulgel formulations exhibited greater in vitro phenolic compound release than free LE. LN-F2 (1.0% LE, 20.0% mineral oil, 20.0% Span 80, 4.0% Cremophor RH 40, 4.0% PEG 400, 0.5% xanthan gum, 50.5% dH2O) was selected as the optimal formulation due to improved characteristics. LE and LN-F2 potential cytotoxicity was assessed on MA-104, showing no significant cellular morphological alterations up to 10 mg/mL for both samples. LN-F2 showed in vitro antimicrobial activity against E. coli, S. Typhimurium, P. aeruginosa, S. aureus, L. monocytogenes, and C. albicans, as well as antiviral activity against phiX 174, but no effect against rotavirus (SA-11). In vivo, LN-F2 presented a removal capacity of 83% to 100% for bacteria and 89% to 100% for fungi. These findings suggest that the formulated nanoemulgel holds potential as a safe and effective antiseptic, providing a viable alternative to commercial alcohol-based formulations.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-04-12
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020059
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 60: Eco-Designing Cosmetic Products while
Preserving the Sensorial-Application Properties: An Instrumental Approach
toward Sustainable Formulations
Authors: Giovanni Tafuro, Alessia Costantini, Mario Piatto, Silvia Lucchetti, Stefano Francescato, Laura Busata, Giovanni Baratto, Alessandra Semenzato
First page: 60
Abstract: Driven by growing environmental concerns and regulations, cosmetic companies are seeking reliable methods to promptly assess the possibility of replacing high-impact ingredients with sustainable alternatives. In this work, we exploited rheological and texture analyses to evaluate the possibility of using natural and biodegradable raw materials for reformulating three commercial oil-in-water skin care emulsions from an eco-design perspective. Synthetic texturizers, like nylon-12 and PMMA, were replaced with starch, maltodextrin, and silica, while acrylic rheological modifiers were substituted with polysaccharide associations of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, diutan gum, and carrageenan. Plant-based emollients and a biodegradable elastomer were used as alternatives to silicone oils. The flow and viscoelastic properties of the samples were characterized using rheological tests under continuous and oscillatory flow conditions. The immersion/de-immersion texture analysis allowed us to measure the mechanical properties of firmness, adhesiveness, and stringiness. A double-blind sensory test assessed the products’ application and sensory characteristics. The results revealed that rheology and texture analysis are complementary and correlated techniques, useful for predicting cosmetics’ sensory characteristics. While perfect replication of the original formulas might not be achievable, this protocol can aid formulators in selecting new eco-friendly ingredients ensuring the products’ desired application and sensory properties without compromising consumer experience.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-04-15
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020060
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 61: Blending Hyaluronic Acid and Calcium
Hydroxylapatite for Injectable Facial Dermal Fillers: A Clinical and
Ultrasonography Assessment
Authors: Bruna Bravo, Raquel Carvalho, Leonardo Bravo, Laís Penedo, Mariana Elias
First page: 61
Abstract: Both hyaluronic acid (HA) and calcium hydroxylapatite (CaHA) fillers have well-established indications in cosmetic medicine. Nevertheless, limited data are available on the effectiveness of combining CaHA and HA. The purpose of this report was to demonstrate the safety, tolerability, and clinical and ultrasonographic improvement of facial skin laxity using a blending technique that admixes HA and CaHA. Fifteen regular patients, including three men, between 25 and 71 years of age were reported. The participants were subjects who came regularly to the dermatologic office seeking a lifting effect without surgery. They were submitted to injection of an admixture of HA and CaHA and followed for 180 days. The clinical assessment consisted of photographic evaluation by two blind investigators, and a consensual subjective evaluation was performed by the physicians (PGAIS) using the five-point Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale. Dermal thickness was analyzed in jaw areas using high-frequency ultrasound. Subjects completed a satisfaction questionnaire with responses scored according to the five-point Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS) to evaluate patient satisfaction. After 180 days of follow-up, clinical assessments by blinded physicians found that all patients improved. All the participants were highly satisfied with the results and reported exceptional improvement. Dermal thickness increased by 9.4% (8.2–10.8%), 14.0% (12.2–15.9%), and 18.8% (16.2–21.9%) at D90, D120, and D180, respectively, by ultrasonography. In conclusion, an injection technique using an admixture of CaHA and HA fillers was well tolerated, offering high satisfaction and long-lasting progressive benefits. The authors believe that this procedure optimizes the treatment time and results because HA promotes early volume restoration and CaHA stimulates long-term dermal remodeling through the synthesis of collagen and elastin.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-04-17
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020061
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 62: Potential Benefits of a Cosmetic Ingredient
Combining Thermal Spring Water and Diatom Algae Extract
Authors: Maria Lourdes Mourelle, Jordi Segura de Yebra, Jordi Ayats, Maria Vitale, Ana López Sánchez
First page: 62
Abstract: The development of cosmetic ingredients improving the management of skin with irritation proclivity is an actual need. However, medical recommendations in specific cases, such as sensitive skin, include the use of as few and low-reactive ingredients as possible. In this context, we here describe the development of a new ingredient consisting of a mixture of thermal water and a diatom algae extract. First, we characterized a thermal spring water (La Solia, LS-TSW). Attending to its chemical composition, LS-TSW displayed an exclusive combination of different inorganic elements, with interesting potential properties when compared with other commercial spring waters. Then, LS-TSW hydrobiome was studied, and after finding specimens of Phaeodactylum-like sp., we proposed potentiating LS-TSW benefits with its combination with an oil extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum (PtOE). Finally, we assessed the potential of the mixture during pro-inflammatory stimulation, in the first instance using an immune cell model, and then in an in vitro system mimicking keratinocytes under skin irritation. In the last-mentioned model, the ingredient of interest effectively attenuated the induced levels of different pro-inflammatory mediators (IL-6, IL-1, TNFα, NF-κB, and CCL1), at the level of gene expression. Thus, our results highlight the potential benefits of this combination in the context of skin irritation, opening roads for its use in new skincare regimens, and addressing an important dermatological concern.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-04-17
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020062
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 63: Preparation and Characterization of a
Topical Delivery System for Nanoemulsions Using a Composite Film of Pectin
and Tapioca
Authors: Luciana Agostinho, Pedro Rocha-Filho
First page: 63
Abstract: Nanoemulsions represent a remarkable class of colloidal systems that play a pivotal role in the encapsulation, protection, and targeted delivery of active ingredients to the skin. One of the primary objectives in skincare science is to maximize the interaction between the active ingredients and the skin. This can be achieved through various mechanisms, two of which are occlusion and extended contact of the formulation with the skin. Cosmetic masks can be used to improve the skin’s hydration by creating a barrier that minimizes transepidermal water loss while acting as a repository of the active ingredient, increasing the skin’s absorption of the formulation’s active ingredients. In order to diminish the environmental impact, natural-polymeric-material masks are being used, as an alternative to synthetic materials, for its biocompatibility and biodegradability. In this work pectin and tapioca starch were used to develop a polymeric mask to deliver a rice bran oil nanoemulsion and study some characteristics of the final product. The results show that the association of pectin and tapioca starch can be used to produce a film that can be molded and shows occlusive effects, besides being flexible and compatible with the skin.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-04-18
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020063
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
- Cosmetics, Vol. 11, Pages 64: Impact of Hair Damage on the Penetration
Profile of Coconut, Avocado, and Argan Oils into Caucasian Hair Fibers
Authors: Carolina Botelho Lourenço, Rebeca Mantuan Gasparin, Fernanda Malanconi Thomaz, Gustavo Carlos da Silva, Airton Abrahao Martin, Ana Cláudia Paiva-Santos, Priscila Gava Mazzola
First page: 64
Abstract: The mitigation of damaged hair conditions involves the application and penetration of substances to stabilize broken bond sites, restore lipids and proteins, reinstate hydrophobicity, and recover hair mechanical properties. Vegetable oils, in general, exhibit a list of advantageous characteristics much desired by consumers, given the associated benefits for hair fibers. While coconut oil is highly popular in the hair care market and extensively studied for its ability to diffuse through the hair cortex, the effects of avocado and argan oil on the internal structure of hair and their potential benefits remain underexplored. Tensile and fatigue tests, as well as Raman spectroscopy, were carried out to investigate the interaction of these three oils with virgin and bleached Caucasian hair. The oils were applied in sufficient amounts directly to hair tresses and maintained for 24 h at 25 °C. Our results show that the three oils successfully diffused and interacted with the cortical region of the hairs. Their impact on hair mechanical properties depends on the level of damage and humidity conditions. In virgin hair, coconut and avocado oil reinforce the hydrophobic barrier of the cellular membrane complex, preventing water from causing intense perturbation of the mechanical properties, leading to increased stiffness and break stress. Meanwhile, due to the high degree of unsaturation of its fatty acid chains, argan oil increases water absorption, resulting in losses in hair resistance. When bleached, the hydrophilicity of the hair fiber increases, determining more affinity for argan oil. Consequently, the affinity with water is also elevated, causing increased fragility to mechanical stress. The analyzed vegetable oils are not always beneficial for hair care. Their specific chemical characteristics and hair conditions will influence the final results and should be taken into consideration in hair care product development.
Citation: Cosmetics
PubDate: 2024-04-21
DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11020064
Issue No: Vol. 11, No. 2 (2024)
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