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Transactions of the Burgon Society
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This is an Open Access Journal

Open Access journal
ISSN (Online) 2475-7799
Published by New Prairie Press

[17 journals]

Erratum, Vol. 21: Peculiar and Proper Habits: The Use and Production of
Academic Dress in Colonial, Revolutionary, and Federal Philadelphia
- Authors: Editorial Board
  Abstract: In the printed edition of Volume 21, Nicholas Heavens’ article, ‘Peculiar and Proper Habits: The Use and Production of Academic Dress in Colonial, Revolutionary, and Federal Philadelphia’, contained three typographical errors in Table 1 on p. 75.
  PubDate: Mon, 02 Oct 2023 09:37:28 PDT
Back Matter
- Authors: Editorial Board
  PubDate: Mon, 02 Oct 2023 09:37:28 PDT
Academic Dress of the University of Bath 1966–2020
- Authors: Edward Ripley
  Abstract: The University of Bath initially set off, in 1965, with the intention of having a very simple academic dress specification, having only four hoods, all of which would be science awards. Furthermore, it originally determined to have only one gown to share across bachelors’, masters’ and doctors’ undress. The University’s designs were not ground-breaking, being linked to those of the University of Oxford, having an Oxford simple hood [s1], an Oxford doctoral gown [d2] and the University of Cambridge bachelors’ gown [b2]. The colours were chosen to represent the city of Bath: old gold grosgrain (representing Bath stone) being present on all hoods. This colour was also adopted as the University’s official colour and remains so to this day. Through a chance request the University had distinct bachelors’ and masters’ gowns ([b7] and [m16]) for a short period of 1966–97 before becoming standardized, although not reverting back to the initial designs of one standard gown. The system has adapted well to additional degrees being awarded, and indeed some removed and consolidated, whilst firmly remaining in the spirit in which it was initially designed. The aim of this article is to set out the development of the academic dress of the University, how it has evolved over time and how it also maintains a strong connection to the past.
  PubDate: Mon, 02 Oct 2023 09:37:27 PDT
The Academical Dress of Finland: A Contemporary (Re)Introduction
- Authors: Nicholas Rowe
  Abstract: With its elegant tailcoat, doctoral hat and doctoral sword, the style and tradition of Finland’s doctoral dress offer a dramatic contrast to more commonly seen forms of academical dress around the world. While a few standard works have superficially touched on the topic, there is a perhaps explainable dearth of work on Finnish academical dress in either academic literature or wider writing in any language. However, digital media have begun to yield accounts of Finnish doctoral ‘graduation’, and its dress and traditions are gaining exposure. In order to bring academical dress scholars up to date with this setting, this work offers a contemporary (re)introduction to the history and form of Finland’s academical dress that goes beyond the coverage of existing works, explaining some of the meaning of its regalia, highlighting its unique features, and offering an insight into the possible psycho-social attitudes behind its adoption and use. Furthermore, it presents the first collated historical account of the origins and practices of Finnish academical dress published in English, and offers the first published photograph of the original doctoral sword designed by Akseli Gallén-Kallela, which is still in production today.
  PubDate: Mon, 02 Oct 2023 09:37:26 PDT
The Oxford Convocation Habit: An Endangered Species of Academic Dress
- Authors: Alex Kerr
  Abstract: The Convocation habit in its modern form is a sleeveless garment worn by certain doctors on certain, now fairly rare occasions at Oxford. In fact, only Doctors of Divinity, Civil Law, Medicine, Letters, Science, and Philosophy wear a habit. Other doctors—Doctors of Music and holders of the relatively recent ‘professional’ doctorates—do not. At Oxford there are still three different graduate dresses, one of which is the Convocation habit for all doctors except professional doctors and the DMus. The habit, worn over the undress gown, has its origins in one of the medieval outer habits.
  PubDate: Mon, 02 Oct 2023 09:37:25 PDT
Costume and Practice: Evolution in Design and Use of the Chancellor’s
and Pro-Chancellor’s Robes at the University of Dublin, Trinity College
(1800–2020)
- Authors: Andrew J. C. Hogg
  Abstract: The University of Dublin is the degree-awarding body for Trinity College, Dublin and maintains a long tradition of academic dress and ceremonial. Commencements are formal meetings of the Senate chaired by the Chancellor or Pro-Chancellor (formerly the Vice-Chancellor) conducted in Latin, in full academic costume. This paper examines the evolution of design and use of these officers’ robes in the context of University governance; the public and political profile of these officers; their personalities and involvement in College affairs; and the waxing and waning of Trinity’s influence in Irish society. A coherent system of design for the Dublin Chancellor’s robes began to emerge organically from 1850 onwards, its roots in a combination of accident, design, and personality. There is evidence that the University of Dublin officers’ dress are of two distinct lineages. The Chancellor’s robe seems to be influenced by nineteenth-century clerical taste inspired by the design of the robes of the Speaker of the former Irish House of Commons, while the Pro-Chancellor’s robes appear to be in continuity with an earlier tradition of eighteenth-century judicial costume. However, since the early 1960s the robes have been used interchangeably. As costly and elaborate garments, it is not unusual for them to be in use for fifty years.
  PubDate: Mon, 02 Oct 2023 09:37:25 PDT
The Academic Dress of Doctors of Philosophy at the University of London
- Authors: Bruce Christianson et al.
  Abstract: The introduction at the University of London of the Doctor of Philosophy degree led to the need for appropriate academic costume. The Senate was formally responsible for regulating the academic dress of the University, but Convocation traditionally took the lead in the matter, and prepared reports for consideration by the Senate. Accordingly, the Establishment and General Purposes Committee of the Senate wrote to the Standing Committee of Convocation, requesting that Convocation make recommendations to the Senate for the academic costume of the PhD.
  PubDate: Mon, 02 Oct 2023 09:37:24 PDT
The Academic Dress of the University of York
- Authors: Nicholas Groves
  Abstract: The University of York was one of the seven universities founded from scratch in England in the early 1960s. As with the other six, it was sited on a green-field campus on the edge of the city. It has been a collegiate university from the start, though the colleges work differently from those of Oxford and Cambridge in that they are not autonomous financially, nor are they responsible for admission of students or appointment of staff. Early information on the scheme of dress is very limited. All that has come to light from the University’s archives are two entries in the minutes of the General Academic Board, and one from those of the Academic Dress Committee.
  PubDate: Mon, 02 Oct 2023 09:37:23 PDT
The Robes for Degrees in Music of the University of London
- Authors: Nicholas Groves
  Abstract: As it is well known, and greatly to the annoyance of Charles Franklyn, the robes used for holders of the BMus degree at London fly in the face of the otherwise totally logical (and, as Franklyn often said, symmetrical) scheme. In place of a black hood, they wear a light blue one, and until its abolition in 1997, they wore a light blue gown also. The hood is trimmed with white watered silk. But what is the origin of this, and how did it come to influence other universities' The original 1840 scheme of dress did not make provision for the BMus—it covered just six degrees: BA, MA, LLB, LLD, MB, and MD. It was not until the revisions of 1861–62 that provision was made for music degrees—and even that was somewhat premature, as they were not, at that date, awarded.
  PubDate: Mon, 02 Oct 2023 09:37:23 PDT
Editor’s Note
- Authors: Stephen Wolgast
  PubDate: Mon, 02 Oct 2023 09:37:22 PDT
In Memoriam: Dr Nicholas Groves, FBS
- Authors: William T. Gibson
  PubDate: Mon, 02 Oct 2023 09:37:21 PDT
Back Matter
- Authors: Editorial Board
  PubDate: Tue, 27 Dec 2022 13:32:12 PST
Erratum: The Lack of a Theology Hood at the University of the West Indies
- Authors: Mitchell A. Nicholls
  Abstract: In the printed edition of Volume 20, p. 162, Mitchell A. Nicholls’ article ‘The Lack of a Theology Hood at the University of the West Indies’ erred in spelling out the degree BCL. It is a Bachelor of Civil Law, not Canon Law. The error was corrected before the digital edition of Volume 20 was uploaded.
  PubDate: Tue, 27 Dec 2022 13:32:11 PST
Bristol Blue: A Search for the Origins of Academic Dress at the University
of Bristol
- Authors: Paul Hayward
  Abstract: This article gives the results of research into the origins of academic dress at the University of Bristol, and is principally concerned with the regulations surrounding that subject. As such, it does not look into the actual use of academic dress. For example, undergraduate gowns still form part of the official regulations, but they are not to be seen in the University today. This falls outside the scope of this research.
  PubDate: Tue, 27 Dec 2022 13:32:10 PST
University of Portsmouth Academic Dress
- Authors: Philip Goff
  Abstract: The University of Portsmouth has its origins in the Portsmouth and Gosport School of Science and Art (1870), the Portsmouth Municipal Technical Institute (1894) and Portsmouth Municipal College (1908), which replaced the earlier Institute. The College also took under its wing the College of Art, Portsmouth Day Training College for teachers and a public library.This article examines the development of academic dress at the University of Portsmouth.
  PubDate: Tue, 27 Dec 2022 13:32:10 PST
History and Development of University Doctoral Academical Dress in
Aotearoa (New Zealand)
- Authors: Scott Pilkington
  Abstract: In 2018 it was announced that Auckland University of Technology (AUT) would join the other seven universities in Aotearoa (New Zealand) in offering a higher doctorate qualification. As part of this process it became apparent that new academical dress would need to be designed and created. Working in the university’s Graduate Research School gave me an opportunity to provide input, and as a result, I designed a new set of academic dress for these qualifications in conjunction with the university’s official robemaker, Paul Fielder (FBS).This provided a prompt to examine what academical dress exists for existing AUT doctorates – so that the new qualifications (a DLitt and a DSc are being offered as of 1st January 2019) could be sympathetic to the existing ones; and also what the relationship is between different doctoral academical dress at the other universities in Aotearoa – so that the design of the new dress was not reinventing the wheel. This research project builds on this examination to examine the history and development of doctoral academic dress across Aotearoa.This study found that there is a range of similarity across doctoral dress in universities across New Zealand, with the six universities that were originally constituents of the University of New Zealand being the most similar (as at one point they shared a common academic dress).
  PubDate: Tue, 27 Dec 2022 13:32:09 PST
Fossils in Silk: Historical Hoods of Trinity College, Toronto
- Authors: Colin Fleming
  Abstract: The hoods used by Trinity College at the University of Toronto bear out to some extent what Groves and Christianson suggested, namely that ‘colonial universities initially borrowed their [academical dress] from the mother country, and particularly, in the case of British colonies, from the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge.’ The hoods we saw at the conference provide evidence that Trinity College may represent an archaeological record of Canadian interpretations (or adaptations) of historical UK usage. The robes of the College have been described in various catalogues and other publications from 1875 to the present, and these sources provided valuable clues as to which degrees the hoods we saw represented.
  PubDate: Tue, 27 Dec 2022 13:32:08 PST
The Invention of Tradition: The Cambridge Benefactors’ Gowns
- Authors: Simon Morris
  Abstract: This article examines the emergence of a new phenomenon in academic dress that has developed over the past twenty years—the awarding of special gowns by some colleges of the University of Cambridge to recognize individual donors and reward their munificence. This appears to be predominantly—albeit not exclusively—a Cambridge phenomenon, and for reasons advanced below not replicated at Oxford University. This article considers in turn whether benefactors’ gowns qualify as academic dress, the reasons for their institution and the criteria for their design. It then looks at the two types of design that have been used, paying particular attention to the revival of the fellow commoner gown for this purpose as its historic connotations are quite different from those associated with its present use. The article concludes by reviewing the individual colleges’ reasoning for and against the use of benefactors’ gowns, and the consequences of their use.
  PubDate: Tue, 27 Dec 2022 13:32:07 PST
Coloured Velvet is Too Gaudy: The 1861 Reforms to the Academical Costume
of the University of London
- Authors: Bruce Christianson
  Abstract: The University of London’s original system of academic dress was adopted by the Senate in 1844, and made extensive use of velvet on both gowns and hoods. In 1861 London adopted a radically new system, which eliminated the use of velvet and which has (with various amendments and additions) remained recognizably in use to this day. This article tells the story of how the revision came about, by tracing its progress through the Minute Book of Convocation.
  PubDate: Tue, 27 Dec 2022 13:32:07 PST

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