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Fashion and Textiles
Journal Prestige (SJR): 0.185  Citation Impact (citeScore): 1 Number of Followers: 14  Open Access journalISSN (Online) 2198-0802 Published by SpringerOpen  [229 journals]
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- Cycling knee brace design analysis using 3D virtual clothing program to
assess clothing pressure distribution and variance
Abstract: Abstract This study analyzed the functional design by investigating the distribution of clothing pressure of cycling knee brace using a three-dimensional virtual clothing program. Based on the average body size of Korean men in their 40 s, clothing pressure in wearing and cycling condition were collected on five knee brace products. According to the results, bonding fabric products had a high possibility of increasing inconvenience, as they had a higher clothing pressure at all measurement points and soared in motion application. It could be adjusted differently depending on the location by mixing materials or using details, so the design with thick pile fabric or velcro strap fastening added more pressure to the lower part of the knee. The length and circumference size also affected the clothing pressure. The design with tight upper and lower circumference pressured excessively the legs and rolled up and clumped together, while the one with loose lower circumference lacked the sufficient strength to support the knees. Also, the design with a curved outline due to the difference in the length of the front and back, increased the clothing pressure on the lower thigh or the upper calf. Therefore, the functional design of cycling knee braces requires comprehensive consideration of material thickness and structure, detailed size of length and circumference, fastening details, to reduce the pressure at the center and top of the knee and to support the lower part with proper pressure, as reflecting the pressure on the body location that come into contact during the motion.
PubDate: 2023-09-18
- "We are watching you": investigation of consumer-employee
perception gaps and the employee expectations-employer performance gaps
Abstract: Abstract Based on the social contract theory and social exchange theories, this study examined the Corporations’ social responsibility (CSR) gaps perceived by fashion firms’ internal (i.e., employees) and external (i.e., consumers) stakeholders. In addition, to more deeply understand employees’ perspectives, this study empirically measured the CSR performance gap between employees’ expectations for the CSR standards the industry should achieve and employees’ perceptions of their employers’ CSR performance. This study then explored how the extent of negative incongruence (i.e., when the employer’s CSR performance does not meet the employee’s CSR standards) influenced employees’ attitudes and behaviors with the moderating role of the employees’ work experience. For this, we selected two global fashion firms: H&M and Nike. Through an online survey, 865 usable responses were collected (H&M retail employee n = 158, consumer n = 275; Nike retail employee n = 157, consumers n = 275). One-way Analysis of Variance and a post hoc test showed that the consumer groups for H&M and Nike indicated significantly lower levels of CSR perceptions than those of the employees of each brand. Moreover, the results of structural equation modeling revealed that negative incongruence between the expected industry standard and perceptions of the firm's performance in the area of CSR discouraged organizational commitment, which in turn decreased organizational citizenship behavior and increased turnover intentions. The moderating effect of work experiencewas not found. The originality of this study is that it quantitatively examined both internal and external stakeholders’ CSR perceptions and employees’ CSR perception gaps. The findings provide valuable academic and managerial implications.
PubDate: 2023-09-15
- Multidimensional analysis for fabric drapability
Abstract: Abstract This study analyzed fabric drapability in one, two, and three dimensions to provide an assessment method reflecting real conditions. One-dimensional analysis of drapability involved observing the fabric movement by reciprocating motion. The movement appeared differently depending on the fabric characteristics, and the shape and location of the node showed differently, which were considered to be influenced by the weight of the sample along with the drape coefficient. Two-dimensional analysis identified the significant factors for the drape information. This examination confirmed that, even if drape factors were similar, differences in draped shape were observed based on the factors related to node shapes. Three-dimensional analysis, using a 3D scanner, involved the use of the mean distances between draped samples and the standard truncated cone, their standard deviation, and the coefficient of variation. The coefficient of variation was high in the groups wherein the shape of the drape was irregular. In the 3D analysis, the distances between samples and the standard truncated cone were expressed in colors to intuitively deliver the drape information. To determine a factor that could indicate drapability among the factors derived from each dimension, the existing drape coefficient was employed for correlation analysis. Three pairs of samples with similar drape coefficients but different drape shapes were selected to verify the above results. In conclusion, one-dimensional node location, two-dimensional standard deviation of node severity, and three-dimensional coefficient of variation were shown to effectively demonstrate the drape characteristic that the drape coefficient could not indicate.
PubDate: 2023-09-05
- Development of human-touch smart armband for tele-haptic communication
using a fabric-based soft pneumatic actuator
Abstract: Abstract This study aimed to develop a human-touch smart armband that can transport emotional tactile stimuli to individuals in distant places. To simulate human touch stimuli, a soft pneumatic actuator (SPA) which we refer to in this study as “SPA touch,” of size 7 cm × 7 cm and thickness 0.3 cm was designed using fabric and silicone with nine touch points, which can be individually inflated and allocated within the actuator. The use of thermoplastic polyurethane-coated fabric as a backing material helps obtain one-side inflation toward the skin effectively. By controlling the position and duration time of the inflation of the nine touch points, three basic touch modes (“Touch,” “Double touch,” and “Drag”) and three emotional tactile gestures (“Patting,” “Hugging,” and “Caressing”) were programmed using Python. The evaluation of the operating performance of the basic touch modes and emotional tactile gestures showed that “SPA touch” could properly create and transmit touch stimulation remotely. The human-touch smart armband developed in the process of this study can be used for novel tele-haptic communication with individuals in distant places, such as nursing homes.
PubDate: 2023-08-25
- Characterization of embroidered textile-based electrode for EMG smart wear
according to stitch technique
Abstract: Abstract This study fabricated and evaluated the textile-type electrodes for application to smartwear that can measure surface electromyography(sEMG). It was manufactured by lock stitch(LS) and moss stitch(MS), and the stitch distance was prepared as 1, 2, or 3 mm. The surface and compression property was measured by using the Kawabata evaluation system, and the sheet resistance and skin-electrode impedance were analyzed. The coefficient of friction(MIU) of the MS was larger than that of the LS. On the other hand, the geometrical roughness(SMD) showed a smaller value. When the same load was applied, the compressive range of the MS was larger than the LS. When it was manufactured as a leg sleeve and worn, the conductive path could be increased as the loops made of conductive yarn become flat as the loops adhere to the skin by the pressure of clothing. Accordingly, the skin-electrode impedance decreased by increasing the area in contact with the skin. As the results of the RMS(root-mean-square), the LS was higher than the MS in a stable. Nevertheless, the SNR(signal-to-noise ratio) value was lower than that of the MS because movement generated noise during operation. Therefore, more stable signal acquisition is possible when applying MS. It is expected that could be applied to producing smartwear for sEMG measurements with superior sEMG signal acquisition performance while having a softer touch and flexibility.
PubDate: 2023-08-25
- Issues of virtual fashion influencers’ reproduced bodies: a qualitative
analysis based on body discourse
Abstract: Abstract A recent development in the fashion industry, where digital transformation has accelerated, has been the birth and rise of virtual fashion influencers. With their close imitation of the human body and how active they are on social media, their influence on the fashion industry is gradually growing. The purpose of this study is to explore the trends in the activities of virtual fashion influencers and to determine the main issues in their body representation by identifying the types and current status of their reproduced bodies. One hundred and fifteen virtual fashion influencers who are active in the global fashion industry were selected as the research subjects and observed with a focus on their body reproduction. Our qualitative analysis is based on Rosi Braidotti’s theory on posthumans’ existence and body of subjectivity formation discourse. Based on the above theories, these reproduced bodies can suggest the following issues related to the risks of modern society: (1) the reproduction of standardized stereotypes, (2) the expression of the male gaze, power, and desire, and (3) colonial gender hierarchy.
PubDate: 2023-08-15
- Innovativeness in tradition: a comparative study of traditional leather
armor scales and modern materials
Abstract: Abstract In medieval Korea, armors made of various materials were developed. Among these, the leather armors were lighter and cheaper than the iron armors and were easy to make. For these reasons, there was a movement toward replacing two-thirds of suits of iron armor with leather armor made of pig or cow skin. As a follow-up to a previous study in which the basic physical properties of a leather scale specimen were investigated, in this study, we focused on the protective performance of this material through a comparison with materials such as steel and polycarbonate. In particular, the superiority of the leather was verified through a quantitative comparison with a modern carbon fiber composite. As part of this study, armor that copied the shape of traditional myeonpigap was produced. Carbon fiber composite panels were used to coat this armor in order to satisfy the requirements for the armor to be light, wearable, and provide effective anti-stab protection at the same time.
PubDate: 2023-08-05
- Shape recovery properties of 3D printed re-entrant strip using shape
memory thermoplastic polyurethane filaments with various temperature
conditions
Abstract: Abstract In this research, to confirm the applicability as the actuator of the re-entrant (RE) structure strip using 3D printing with shape memory thermoplastic polyurethane material, two types of 3D printing infill conditions and five extension temperature conditions were applied. REstrip was analyzed through differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), tensile properties, Poisson’s ratio properties, and shape recovery properties according to temperature conditions. The DSC results showed that the glass transition temperature peaks of the SMTPU filament and the 3D printed REstrip were in the range of about 30–60 °C. In terms of tensile properties, the initial modulus, maximum stress, and yield stress of REstrip all decreased, while the elongation at break increased with increasing extension temperature. In terms of Poisson’s ratio, it was confirmed that as the extension temperature rises, Poisson’s ratio shows a positive value at a lower elongation, and the deformation is best at 50 °C. As a result of the shape memory property, the shape recovery ratio tended to decrease as the tensile deformation temperature increased.
PubDate: 2023-07-25
- Differences in foot shape when wearing wedge-heeled shoes with elevated
forefoot height and heel height
Abstract: Abstract Wedge-heeled shoes, which are formed by elevating both the forefoot and heel, have been popular among young women. However, research on the foot shape in wedge-heeled shoes is lacking. This study aimed to access the effects of forefoot height (10, 20, and 30 mm) and heel height (30, 50, 70, and 90 mm) on foot shape and perceived comfort when wearing wedge-heeled shoes. Three-dimensional (3D) foot scanning was performed on 35 females and the 14 foot dimensions were measured. Increased forefoot height generated larger lengths (foot, ball and out ball), smaller girths (ball and instep) and heights (instep and navicular) (p < 0.05). Thus, when the forefoot height increased, the foot became longer, slimmer and flatter. Moreover, elevated heel height resulted in larger dimensions for girths (ball and instep), heights (instep and navicular), and smaller dimensions for lengths (foot, ball and out ball), widths (diagonal and horizontal) and toe 5 angles of the foot (p < 0.01). That means shorter, narrower and more convex foot shapes were observed when heel height increased. Subjective measurements implied that increased forefoot height significantly enhanced perceived comfort, whereas increased heel height diminished comfort. It was found that forefoot elevation could result in less deformation and discomfort which accompanied heel elevation, especially in the low heel-toe drop combinations (10 × 30 and 20 × 30 mm). The findings provide valuable references for enhancing shoe fitting and comfort for wedge-heeled shoes by providing dimensional data on the toe, ball, arch and instep regions.
PubDate: 2023-07-25
- Innovativeness in tradition: a study on the physical performance of
leather scale armors during the Joseon Dynasty
Abstract: Abstract During the Joseon Dynasty, light and convenient leather armors were developed to replace metal armors, which were heavy and difficult to manufacture. Leather armors allowed easy movement of the troops and, because arrows were the primary weapons at the time, provided them with protection. The excellent performance of leather armors can be attributed to their materials and manufacturing method. The scales of the leather armor relics are prepared by layering animal skins, attaching them with natural glue, and then coating their outer surface with lacquer. The lacquer extracted from the lacquer (Ott) tree is an excellent material with high strength, waterproofing and antiseptic properties, insect repellency, heat resistance, as well as chemical resistance. The superior performance of the leather scale was reported in old scripts; however, it has not been proven through scientific analysis and testing. Therefore, in this study, the physical and mechanical properties, impact resistance, and anti-stab performance of leather scales manufactured following the traditional method were investigated. The results confirmed the excellent protection, impact resistance, and mechanical properties of the leather specimens glued with fish glue and coated with lacquer compared to those of specimens glued with synthetic glue and uncoated specimens glued with fish glue. This study reveals the excellent properties of fish glue and lacquer, which enable them to be used in various industries.
PubDate: 2023-07-15
- The development of dress forms in standing and sitting postures using 3D
body scanning and printing
Abstract: Abstract 3D body scanning and printing are attracting attention as innovative technologies for producing dress forms. While designing dress forms, the shape of the human body must be accurately reflected in the different postures. This study explored the development of dress forms as a tool to understand changes in body size and shape according to postures and reflect this information to design and fit evaluation in the apparel industry. The holistic development process of dress forms in standing and sitting postures was suggested for representing the body shape of a specific target group. The average shape of middle-aged Korean women was derived by analyzing the 6th Size Korea data. A representative participant whose dimensions were closest to the average size was selected among recruited participants for the dress form development. The body data were acquired with a portable 3D scanner and corresponding dress forms and accessories were modeled using 3D CAD software. The models were inspected and corrected through prototyping. Full-size dress forms in standing and sitting postures were printed using a fused deposition modeling (FDM) 3D printer and post-processed. Completed dress forms were body-scanned and their accuracy was evaluated through morphological similarity comparison, cross-sectional image comparison, surface area and volume comparison, and mesh deviation analysis. Although there were some minor differences caused by the modeling process, the developed dress forms reflected the main characteristics and shapes of the representative body satisfactorily.
PubDate: 2023-07-05
- Analyzing visual behavior of consumers in a virtual reality fashion store
using eye tracking
Abstract: Abstract This study investigated the visual behavior of consumers within an immersive virtual reality (VR) fashion store on the basis of their fashion involvement. Their shopping motivation was considered as a moderator. A total of 23 consumers participated, and the participants’ actual visual behaviors were recorded in real-time during their store experience section using an eye-tracking device attached to a VR head-mounted display. Results revealed that the greater the consumer’s fashion involvement, the greater their attention to the store area, and the greater their ability to observe more diverse areas in the store. Consumers with higher fashion involvement and browsing motivation spent less time focusing on the product area. Meanwhile, consumers with higher fashion involvement and searching motivation spent more time focusing on the product area. Visual attention to the store area positively affected experience satisfaction, and the effect of visual attention to the product area on satisfaction was moderated by consumers’ shopping motivation.
PubDate: 2023-06-25
- Development of digitized evaluation methods for fabric shrinkage and
damage using image analysis
Abstract: Abstract The aim of this study is to develop digitalized evaluation methods for fabric shrinkage and damage using image analysis. To develop the shrinkage assessment method, 81 grid dots (nine horizontal lines and nine vertical lines) are introduced into the test fabric. This allows the shrinkage to be verified based on the change in distance between neighboring dots, which not only presents the shrinkage in the warp and weft directions, but also the area shrinkage and skewness. The developed evaluation method yields a value that differs from the actual measured value by less than 1 mm, which confirms its significance. To develop a damage evaluation method using the Original Danish MA test fabric, the change in area caused by loosening threads in five holes is evaluated. The area change in the developed method and the number of loosened threads in the conventional method has a high correlation. Comparing the number of dots in the Poka-Dot test fabric before and after washing enables one to distinguish incorrectly created dots during the manufacturing process and to accurately measure the number of missing dots such that the result is similar to the actual measurement. The accuracy and reproducibility of the developed measurement method are confirmed using various verification such as error rate, washing cycle, and washing time. Digitizing the evaluation method can contribute to the digital transformation of apparel quality evaluation by reducing labor and errors between evaluators.
PubDate: 2023-06-25
- Recycling of cotton apparel waste and its utilization as a thermal
insulation layer in high performance clothing
Abstract: Abstract Recycling and converting textile waste into value-added products with enhanced functional properties pave the way toward a circular economy for sustainability. This research investigates the utilization of recycled cotton fiber from apparel cutting waste for fabricating high-performance thermal barrier fabrics. The physical characterization of the developed fabrics revealed a regular arrangement of fibers, consequently the uniform thickness of the fabric with no distortion on fiber surfaces due to the recycling operation of cotton waste. The developed fabrics also demonstrated a high softness index and low compression and bending average rigidity compared to the commercial fabric with similar thickness. The heat protection performance revealed an increase in fabric conductive and radiative heat resistance with increasing the amount of recycled cotton fiber in the fabrics. The inherent thermal resistance of cotton fiber and the low inter-fiber spacing because of their uniform orientation in the fabric lead to the high thermal resistance of developed fabrics. In the case of fabric air permeability concerning the clothing thermal comfort, no significant difference in breathability was observed among the test specimens. Besides, the moisture management profile of developed fabrics indicated the capability to create favorable thermal comfort within the clothing-skin microenvironment because of improved liquid transportation and diffusion of perspiration vapor through the fabric.
PubDate: 2023-06-15
- Investigation of materials for palm and dorsal of anti-vibration gloves
for thermal comfort
Abstract: Abstract The thermal comfort of a work glove affects wear compliance. This study investigates the thermal comfort of five types of anti-vibration gloves that use chloroprene rubber and spacer fabric as materials to isolate vibration. An evaluation of the fabric and material on the palm and dorsal of the glove, and a wear trial of the gloves were subsequently carried out. The results showed that the palm of the glove made of spacer fabric had higher air and water vapour permeabilities than chloroprene rubber. Using a thin mesh fabric for the dorsal of the glove resulted in a significantly lower skin temperature than using spacer fabric or chloroprene rubber during hand activity. The thermal sensation of the subjects showed no significant difference among the five glove samples. However, the glove wear comfort of the spacer fabric glove was the lowest. Recommendations for the fabric thickness and glove design are provided for developing anti-vibration gloves.
PubDate: 2023-06-05
- Revolutionising textile manufacturing: a comprehensive review on 3D and 4D
printing technologies
Abstract: An exhaustive and integrative overview of recent developments in 3D and 4D textiles based on Additive Manufacturing (AM) were provided in order to identify the current state‐of‐the‐art. Despite all scientific progress, AM applied on textiles is a challenging technique and is still at an embryonic stage of research and technological development (R&TD), mainly due to the technological gap between featured prototypes and scalability in manufacturing. Despite its full potential across a range of different applications, such as development of functional filament fibres/wires, 3D printing on textiles, 3D printing completed garments and 4D textiles, needs future developments. Although, AM applied on textiles, enables cost and resource efficiency for small scale production through localised production, shorten supply chain and demand driven manufacture, both customisable and scalable, embracing cost and environmental sustainability. The opportunities and limits of 3D and 4D printing textiles are also discussed. Finally, the conclusion highlights the potential future development and application of the convergence of advanced computational design techniques, product customization, mathematical modelling, simulation, and digital modelling within multifunctional textiles. Graphical
PubDate: 2023-05-25
- (Un)Sustainable transitions towards fast and ultra-fast fashion
Abstract: Abstract Due to pressing sustainability challenges, the fashion industry is undergoing tremendous change. Surprisingly, even though the unique context of fashion presents an opportunity for scholars to explore the (un)sustainable transitions, this context has yet to receive the attention of transition scholars. Our article explores fashion transitions and develops a conceptual framework demonstrating this transition's multi-level and multi-dimensional interactions. We draw on three literature areas: multi-level perspective (MLP) of sustainable transitions, institutional logics and framing contests. We then introduce a conceptual framework and illustrative examples from the industry and demonstrate the tensions between positive and negative environmental and social sustainability developments at the niche, regime and landscape levels. We show that while many positive developments can be seen in the regime players through the adoption of corporate sustainability initiatives, new business models and collaborations, more attention should also be given to some adverse developments. Overall, we contribute to the literature by exploring fashion transitions, an under-explored context, and by demonstrating the complexity of interactions due to the diffusion of heterogeneous institutional logics and framing contests between players.
PubDate: 2023-05-25
- Conceptual framework of hybrid style in fashion image datasets for machine
learning
Abstract: Abstract Fashion image datasets, in which each fashion image has a label indicating its design attributes and styles, have contributed to the achievement of various machine learning techniques in the fashion industry. Computer vision studies have investigated labeling categories (such as fashion items, colors, materials, details, and styles) to create fashion image datasets for supervised learning. Although a considerable number of fashion image datasets has been developed, different style classification criteria exist because of a lack of understanding concerning fashion style. Since fashion styles reflect various design attributes, multiple styles can often be included in a single outfit. Thus, this study aims to build a Hybrid Style Framework to develop a fashion image dataset that can be efficiently applied to supervised learning. We conducted focus group interviews with six fashion experts to determine fashion style categories with which to classify hybrid styles in fashion images. We developed 1,206,931K-fashion image datasets and analyzed the hybrid style convergence. Finally, we applied the datasets to the machine learning model and verified the accuracy of the computer’s ability to recognize style. Overall, this study concludes that the Hybrid Style Framework and developed K-fashion image datasets are helpful, as they can be applied to data-driven fashion services to offer personalized fashion design solutions.
PubDate: 2023-05-15
- Characterization of antioxidant Houttuynia cordata extracts loaded
polyurethane nanofibers
Abstract: Abstract Herein, we analyzed total polyphenol content, total flavonoid content, and the antioxidant activity of the ethanol and distilled water extracted Houttuynia cordata perennial herb. Later, we investigated the possibility of producing Houttuynia cordata extract (HCE) loaded Polyurethane (PU) nanofibers via the electrospinning technique. The analysis confirmed that the total polyphenol, total flavonoid content, and antioxidant activity of the ethanol extracted HCE were higher than the distilled water extracted HCE. Therefore, the ethanol extracted HCE was used to prepare HCE/PU nanofibers by varying concentrations of HCE and PU. The HCE/PU nanofibers showed a mixed pattern of beads and fibers at a PU concentration of 10 wt%. However, at 12 wt% PU concentration, relatively uniform nanofibers with an average diameter of about 200 nm were formed at 1.0% and 1.5 wt% of HCE. The successful incorporation of HCE in PU nanofibrous matrix was confirmed by the presence of its characteristic bands in Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) and X-ray diffraction (XRD) spectra. The addition of HCE increased the crystallinity, the amount of heat required for pyrolysis, and the thermal stability of HCE/PU nanofibers, which must be credited to the HCE-derived quercitrin and quercetin crystallite solids.
PubDate: 2023-05-05
- Improved heating method for shape-memory alloy using carbon nanotube and
silver paste
Abstract: Abstract Shape memory alloys (SMAs) have a special ability to remember their initial shape and return from operating temperature. For this special ability, there are many studies in the field of smart wearables to replace rigid, heavy, and large electric actuators with SMAs that can be a fabrication. The usual operating method of the SMA is heating the SMA by direct Joule heating with electricity. Although direct Joule heating is fast and easy, there is overshooting, unstable, and high-power consumption. For these issues to use the SMA as textile actuators, this research suggested a heating method with silver paste required lower power consumption and coating the basic fabric with carbon nanotubes (CNTs) to support heating stability and heat uniformity. The heating method evaluated the efficiency of heat by comparing direct heating and silver layer heating and the uniformity of heat with the infrared images of whether CNTs coated or not. In this research, we reached higher temperatures with lower power than direct Joule heating using wearable heaters manufactured using silver paste. In addition, we confirmed that coating the basic fabric with carbon nanotubes reduce the temperature imbalance, and improved the heating stability. This research is expected that SMA will be used as a wearable actuator to help develop wearable devices that can move.
PubDate: 2023-04-25
