for Journals by Title or ISSN
for Articles by Keywords
help
Followed Journals
Journal you Follow: 0
 
Sign Up to follow journals, search in your chosen journals and, optionally, receive Email Alerts when new issues of your Followed Jurnals are published.
Already have an account? Sign In to see the journals you follow.
Cosmetics    Follow    
  This is an Open Access Journal Open Access journal
     ISSN (Online) 2079-9284
     Published by MDPI Homepage  [119 journals]
  • Cosmetics, Vol. 1, Pages 75-81: The Efficiency and Safety of
           Leuphasyl—A Botox-Like Peptide
    • Authors: Anca Dragomirescu, Mihaiela Andoni, Daniela Ionescu, Felicia Andrei
      Pages: 75 - 81
      Abstract: Peptides of synthesis are a very new strategy in cosmetic science and technology for at least two reasons: (1) they are small molecules, easily penetrable in the skin and (2) they are able to induce a very specific action, because all skin cells (keratinocytes, fibroblasts, nervous cells) have membrane receptors for peptides. This group of cosmeceutics includes the botox-like peptides, represented by acetyl hexapeptide 3 (Argireline) and pentapeptid-3 (Leuphasyl). The latter is less known and has been less studied. This substance inhibits the neuromuscular synapses in the mimic muscles, acting as enkephalins. It links the enkephalin receptor to nervous cells, thereby modulating the release of acetylcholine in synaptic space. This cellular activity will be translated in vivo in a relaxation of the muscle and a reduction of expression wrinkles. The aim of our study is to evaluate the optimal concentration of Leuphasyl for skin application at the mimic muscle level, the efficiency and the safety of this peptide. We formulated three emulsions of different concentrations (0.5%, 1%, 2%) which were applied to the skin, at the level of mimic muscles (1) at the eyebrows zone (above the corrugator supercilii muscle) and (2) at the periorbital zone (above the orbicularis oculi muscle). We evaluated the regression of the wrinkles between the eyebrows using an imagistic method: pro-derm Analyser. The study is of interest to discussions concerning how to apply these kinds of cosmetic products at the mimic muscle skin level and not at the level of the wrinkles.
      PubDate: 2014-04-08
      DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics1020075
      Issue No: Vol. 1, No. 2 (2014)
       
  • Cosmetics, Vol. 1, Pages 82-93: Ultra-Performance Liquid Chromatography
           Tandem Mass Spectrometry Measurement of Caffeine in Caffeine-Laced Pants
           and in Urine and Skin of a Pants User
    • Authors: Manuela Pellegrini, Daniela De Orsi, Carmine Guarino, Maria Rotolo, Rita di Giovannandrea, Roberta Pacifici, Simona Pichini
      Pages: 82 - 93
      Abstract: A fast and sensitive ultra-performance liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry method was developed for the measurement of caffeine in caffeine-laced pants and in urine and skin of a pants user. The substance and its internal standard (N-ethylnorcotinine) were separated by reversed phase chromatography with 5 mM ammonium formate pH 3.0 and 0.3% formic acid in acetonitrile mobile phase (83:17 v/v) by isocratic elution and detected by tandem mass spectrometry operated in multiple reaction monitoring mode via positive electrospray ionization. Linearity was studied from 1.4 to100 ng/mL range for urine, from 5 to 100 ng/cotton swab for skin caffeine and from 1.3 to 100 µg/samples for 4 cm2 textile samples. Good determination coefficients (r2 = 0.99) were found in all cases. At three concentrations spanning the linear dynamic ranges of different samples mean recoveries of caffeine were always higher than 80% and intra-assay and inter-assay imprecision and inaccuracy were always better than 105%. For the first time, caffeine content in this cosmetotextile was determined together with the measurement of caffeine released on the user skin, the absorbed amount with resulting urinary concentrations.
      PubDate: 2014-04-15
      DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics1020082
      Issue No: Vol. 1, No. 2 (2014)
       
  • Cosmetics, Vol. 1, Pages 14-28: Bio-Guided Targeting for Preservative and
           Anti-Ageing Cosmetic Ingredient Development
    • Authors: Emilie Destandau, Isabelle Krolikiewicz-Renimel, Saida El Abdellaoui, Perrine Cancellieri, Laetitia Fougère, Alix Toribio, Ludovic Landemarre, Patrice André, Claire Elfakir
      Pages: 14 - 28
      Abstract: To develop a new antioxidant, antibacterial and natural cosmetic ingredient without cytotoxicity to skin cells, bioactive molecules contained in Kalanchoe pinnata leaf methanolic extract were targeted using semi-preparative HPLC fractionation linked to biological activity tests. Chromatographic effluent was collected at the column outlet into a 96 deep-well microplate, filling successively all the wells. After freeze-drying, the microplate was ready to use for different biological tests such as antimicrobial activity on microorganisms, skin cell viability and antioxidant activity on human keratinocyte cells. The injection of only 2.64 mg of crude extract into the HPLC system reveals a good correlation between the chromatographic peaks and the different biological activities. One fraction is mainly of interest since good antibacterial and antioxidant activities without cytotoxicity are observed. The analysis of this fraction using mass spectrometry allows the identification of glycoside derivatives of quercetin, isorhamnetin and kaempferol. Thus, a correlation between biological activity and the presence of these flavonoids is obtained. This screening method allows a rapid fractionation associated with a biological activity evaluation and a first molecular identification, saving time by limiting sample treatments and solvent consumption.
      PubDate: 2014-01-02
      DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics1010014
      Issue No: Vol. 1, No. 1 (2014)
       
  • Cosmetics, Vol. 1, Pages 29-36: In Vivo Cosmetic Product Efficacy Testing
           by Analyzing Epidermal Proteins Extracted from Tape Strips
    • Authors: Marie Westman, Tamara Al-Bader, Eve Merinville, Kevin Cattley, Virginie Lafon-Kolb, Josephine Darbon, Alain Mavon, Aurelie Laloeuf
      Pages: 29 - 36
      Abstract: The objective of this in vivo pilot study was to investigate whether differential biomarker analysis from skin tape strips could be used, not only to evaluate the difference between treated and untreated skin, but also to evaluate the effect of different product treatments. Ten volunteers were included in the study, applying two different basic formulations on their forearms. After four weeks of product application, and also after one week of treatment remission, tape strips were collected from the different treatment sites, as well as from untreated skin. The biomarkers investigated were selected to cover different aspects of epidermal differentiation and in connection with moisturization and barrier function. Levels of Involucrin were increased in both treatments, compared to untreated skin, whereas the levels of Keratin-6 were decreased for both treatments. In addition, a pattern for increased levels of Hornerin and Claudin-1 was also detected. There were no significant differences between the two treatments, only for treatment compared to untreated, but there were tendencies for different effect on some of the biomarkers investigated, differences that may reach significance with increased sample size. The major differences between the two treatments in this study were seen after one week of product remission, although due to too small sample size these differences were not significant.
      PubDate: 2014-02-14
      DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics1010029
      Issue No: Vol. 1, No. 1 (2014)
       
  • Cosmetics, Vol. 1, Pages 37-43: In Vivo Non-Invasive Evaluation of Actinic
           Keratoses Response to Methyl-Aminolevulinate-Photodynamic Therapy
           (MAL-PDT) by Reflectance Confocal Microscopy
    • Authors: Marina Venturini, Arianna Zanca, Piergiacomo Calzavara-Pinton
      Pages: 37 - 43
      Abstract: Photodynamic therapy (PDT) with methyl-aminolevulinate (MAL) is an approved non-invasive treatment option for actinic keratoses (AKs). In vivo reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) is a non-invasive tool for real-time imaging of epidermis and superficial dermis in vivo that has been previously reported to facilitate the in vivo evaluation of skin lesions, including AKs. The aim of this study was to investigate the use of in vivo RCM in evaluating AKs response to MAL-PDT. For this reason a total of 10 biopsy-proven AKs were treated by MAL-PDT, according to standard PDT protocol for AKs. RCM investigation was performed before and after PDT and RCM-guided punch biopsies was taken at 3 months in all patients for histopathologic examination. At 3 months follow-up, complete clinical response was observed by clinical examination in 9 out of 10 lesions and a partial clinical response in 1 lesion. In vivo RCM detected two residual AKs in subclinical form, missed by clinical examination. Histological analysis confirmed these results. In vivo RCM may be a new alternative tool for the non-invasive diagnosis of AKs and evaluation of AKs response to non-invasive treatments, as MAL-PDT, improving the ability of dermatologists to diagnose AKs even in subclinical stage.
      PubDate: 2014-03-04
      DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics1010037
      Issue No: Vol. 1, No. 1 (2014)
       
  • Cosmetics, Vol. 1, Pages 44-50: Tenskinmetric Evaluation of Surface Energy
           Changes in Adult Skin: Evidence from 834 Normal Subjects Monitored in
           Controlled Conditions
    • Authors: Camilla Dal Bosco, Davide Rossi, Andrea Brunetta, Antonio Bettero
      Pages: 44 - 50
      Abstract: To evaluate the influence of the skin aging critical level on the adult skin epidermal functional state, an improved analytical method based on the skin surface energetic measurement (TVS modeling) was developed. Tenskinmetric measurements were carried out non-invasively in controlled conditions by contact angle method using only a water-drop as reference standard liquid. Adult skin was monitored by TVS Observatory according to a specific and controlled thermal protocol (Camianta protocol) in use at the interconnected “Mamma Margherita Terme spa” of Terme Euganee. From June to November 2013, the surface free energy and the epidermal hydration level of adult skin were evaluated on arrival of 265 male and 569 female adult volunteers (51–90 years of age) and when they departed 2 weeks later. Sensitive measurements were carried out at 0.1 mN/m. High test compliance was obtained (93.2% of all guests). Very interesting results are obtained. The high sensitivity and discrimination power of tenskinmetry combined with a thermal Camianta protocol demonstrate the possibility to evaluate at baseline level the surface energetic changes and the skin reactivity which occurs on adult skin.
      PubDate: 2014-03-04
      DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics1010044
      Issue No: Vol. 1, No. 1 (2014)
       
  • Cosmetics, Vol. 1, Pages 51-60: l-Ergothioneine Protects Skin Cells
           against UV-Induced Damage—A Preliminary Study
    • Authors: Karolina Bazela, Aleksandra Solyga-Zurek, Renata Debowska, Katarzyna Rogiewicz, Ewa Bartnik, Irena Eris
      Pages: 51 - 60
      Abstract: Many changes related to aging at the cellular level may be due to the physiological condition of mitochondria. One of the most common types of damage of mtDNA is the so-called “common deletion” referring to a deletion of 4977 base pairs. In the skin cells this phenomenon probably is caused by oxidative damage of mtDNA induced by UV. The present study was aimed at evaluating the effect of the antioxidant l-ergothioneine on UV-induced damage in skin cells. The effect of l-ergothioneine on the reduced glutathione level was studied. The presence of the “common deletion” in human fibroblasts irradiated with UVA and treated with l-ergothioneine was evaluated by a polymerase chain reaction. We have demonstrated that l-ergothioneine enhanced the level of reduced glutathione and protected cells from the induction of a photoaging-associated mtDNA “common deletion”. In view of our results, l-ergothioneine could be an effective skin care and anti-photoaging ingredient.
      PubDate: 2014-03-20
      DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics1010051
      Issue No: Vol. 1, No. 1 (2014)
       
  • Cosmetics, Vol. 1, Pages 61-74: Safety Evaluation of Cosmetic Ingredients:
           In Vitro Opportunities for the Identification of Contact Allergens
    • Authors: Emanuela Corsini, Angela Papale, Valentina Galbiati, Erwin Roggen
      Pages: 61 - 74
      Abstract: Irritant and allergic contact dermatitis are undesired side effects in the development of drugs and cosmetics as well as after contact with environmental or industrial chemicals. Over the last decades, a great deal of progress has been made in the development of alternative In vitro test to assess these issues. Driven by the 7th Amendment to the European Cosmetic Directive, the EU policy on chemicals (the registration, evaluation, authorization and restriction of chemicals (REACH) system), the update of the European legislation on the protection of animals used in research, and emerging visions and strategies for predicting toxicity, in vitro methods are likely to play a major role in the near future. On 12 December 2013, the European Union Reference Laboratory for Alternatives to Animal Testing (EURL ECVAM, part of the European Commission Joint Research Centre) published its Recommendation on the Direct Peptide Reactivity Assay (DPRA) for skin sensitization, capable of distinguishing sensitizers from non-sensitizers. Other assays (i.e., KeratinoSens™ assay) will follow shortly. While a number of methods are at various stages of development and use, currently it is not possible to rank chemicals for their sensitizing potency, an issue that is important for a full safety assessment. It is expected that a predictive method to totally replace animal testing will be in the form of a test battery comprising molecular, cell-based, and/or computational methods, the so-called “Integrated Approaches to Testing and Assessment”. This review aims to discuss the state-of-the-art in the field of in vitro assessment of contact sensitizers.
      PubDate: 2014-03-20
      DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics1010061
      Issue No: Vol. 1, No. 1 (2014)
       
  • Cosmetics, Vol. 1, Pages 1-2: Cosmetics: A New Open Project
    • Authors: Enzo Berardesca
      Pages: 1 - 2
      Abstract: It is my great pleasure to announce a newly launched open access journal, Cosmetics, published by MDPI, dedicated to this fascinating world. Do we need a new journal in this area' This was the question I had in mind before starting the project and I will try to answer in the following paragraphs. [...]
      PubDate: 2013-05-21
      DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics1010001
      Issue No: Vol. 1, No. 1 (2013)
       
  • Cosmetics, Vol. 1, Pages 3-13: Dimeric Surfactants: Promising Ingredients
           of Cosmetics and Toiletries
    • Authors: Naveen Kumar, Rashmi Tyagi
      Pages: 3 - 13
      Abstract: Surfactants are an essential ingredient for cosmetic, toiletries and personal care products for enhancing their performance. Dimeric surfactants demonstrate superiority compared to conventional surfactants in all areas of application. Dimeric surfactants are extremely promising for utilization in various cosmetic formulations viz. shampoo, lotions, creams, conditioners etc. These surfactants possess extremely unique surface properties viz. lower surface tension, unique micellization, low critical micelle concentration (CMC) and antimicrobial activity, higher solubilization etc. Dimerics enhance the performances of cosmetics in an extraordinary manner and provide eco-friendly preparations for human epidermis.
      PubDate: 2013-11-21
      DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics1010003
      Issue No: Vol. 1, No. 1 (2013)
       
 
 
JournalTOCs
School of Mathematical and Computer Sciences
Heriot-Watt University
Edinburgh, EH14 4AS, UK
Email: journaltocs@hw.ac.uk
Tel: +00 44 (0)131 4513762
Fax: +00 44 (0)131 4513327
 
About JournalTOCs
API
Help
News (blog, publications)
JournalTOCs on Twitter   JournalTOCs on Facebook

JournalTOCs © 2009-2014