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Subjects -> TEXTILE INDUSTRIES AND FABRICS (Total: 40 journals) - CLOTHING TECHNOLOGY AND TRADE (6 journals) - TEXTILE INDUSTRIES AND FABRICS (34 journals)
CLOTHING TECHNOLOGY AND TRADE (6 journals)

Showing 1 - 4 of 4 Journals sorted alphabetically
	Clothing and Textiles Research Journal (Followers: 27)
	Costume (Followers: 12)
	Dress (Followers: 13)
	Fashion Theory : The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture (Followers: 30)
	Textile : The Journal of Cloth and Culture (Followers: 27)
	ZoneModa Journal (Followers: 1)

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Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
Journal Prestige (SJR): 0.36

Citation Impact (citeScore): 1
Number of Followers: 27

Hybrid journal (It can contain Open Access articles)
ISSN (Print) 0887-302X - ISSN (Online) 1940-2473
Published by Sage Publications

[1097 journals]

Editors’ Notes: Advancing Design Scholarship in Textiles and Apparel
- Authors: Sherry Haar, Elizabeth Bye
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The past 20 years have seen growth in exposure and academic outlets for design scholarship through new journals, special topics sessions and conferences, and PhD programs. Yet, there is a lack of strong published examples of design scholarship in textiles and apparel as designer scholars and administrators still struggle to understand how to conduct, document, and evaluate design scholarship. This issue, long overdue, looks at the current state of design research in our textile and apparel discipline and provides examples that begin to fill the gap in our shared understanding of a way forward.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-07-23T09:56:16Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20943305
Factors Influencing Consumers’ Intention to Adopt Fashion Robot
Advisors: Psychological Network Analysis
- Authors: So Young Song, Youn-Kyung Kim
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Drawing upon the theory of human–robot interaction (HRI), this study examined the relations among perceived characteristics of fashion robot advisors (FRAs), consumers’ negative preconceptions toward robots, and positive dispositions toward technology to identify network differences in adoption and nonadoption groups. For interviews, pretests, and main data collection, we presented video clips of FRAs as stimuli. Based on the data (n = 464) collected via an online survey, we conducted psychological network analysis to explore defining factors that differentiate adoption and nonadoption groups. The results indicate that perceived characteristics of social intelligence, humanlikeness, and knowledgeableness combined with a positive disposition of technological self-efficacy lead to adoption of FRAs. This study contributes to the literature on the theory of HRI and technology acceptance models, particularly in fashion retail sectors. Furthermore, this study provides a new graphical approach to networks that conceptualizes shoppers’ adoption of technology as a complex interplay of psychological attributes.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-07-21T10:10:06Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20941261
Multiscale Finite Element Modeling of the Viscoelastic Behavior of
Sportswear Under Periodic Load
- Authors: Ali Sajjadi, Seyed Abdolkarim Hosseini, Saeed Ajeli, Mohammad Mashayekhi
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The aim of this study was to investigate the influence of different stitch factors on the mechanical behavior of the seam section of sportswear under periodic load. Multiscale finite element (FE) modeling was then utilized to predict the mechanical behavior of the samples under periodic tensile load. The unit cells of the fabric and the stitched section were modeled in the mesoscale. Elastic and viscoelastic properties of the yarns were assigned to the model. In order to obtain the mechanical properties of the sample, periodic boundary conditions were applied to the unit cell. Elastic and viscoelastic properties calculated from the mesoscale were then used for the macromodel. FE results had a good agreement with the experimental ones in predicting the mechanical behavior of the seam section under the periodic tensile load. By using Taguchi method, the optimum sample was found.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-07-14T09:55:10Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20937796
Age and Gender Differences in the Relationship Between Actual and
Perceived Body
- Authors: Jooyeon Lee, Yun-Ja Nam, Jinhee Park
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  We analyzed the relationship between actual and perceived body, the effect of body shape on this relationship, and age and gender differences within it. Descriptive statistics were analyzed using body measurement data of 6,172 Koreans aged 15–69 years, in addition to a survey about perceived body types. We determined the body perception type according to the congruence between perceived and actual body. Using the body proportion index, we identified whether there were physical features depending on perception type. Women perceived their bodies more objectively than did men and eased their physical evaluation standards in their 50s. On the other hand, men tended to underestimate their obesity levels since their youth. In addition, participants underestimating their bodies had a high body mass index. These results provide an overall understanding of the tendency to perceive the body differently by age and gender and may be used as a reference in clothing design.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-07-10T09:43:12Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20937065
Exploring Effects of Self-Evaluative and Motivational Schema in Appearance
on Advertising Effectiveness in Fashion Ads
- Authors: Ui-Jeen Yu
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Thin-idealized models are mainly promoted in fashion ads, supporting “thinness sells.” Based on the self-schema theory, this study investigated how self-evaluative and motivational schema in appearance influenced attitudes toward brand advertising thin models and purchase intention. A web-based survey consisting of three different model stimuli—thin, average-sized, and no models—in fashion ads was conducted. A total of 380 female college students at a large Midwestern university in the United States responded to the web-based survey. Results indicate participants with higher motivational schema in appearance showed more positive attitudes toward brand and greater purchase intention when exposed to thin models rather than average-sized and no models. However, participants with lower motivational schema in appearance responded to thin models less favorably than those with higher motivational schema. These results explored individual differences of motivational self-schema in appearance in responses to thin models. Implications on marketing and advertising strategies for fashion ads were discussed.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-07-09T09:21:17Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20937793
Measurement of Aluminum and Chemical Oxygen Demand in the Effluent of
Mordanted Cotton Against Environmental Regulations
- Authors: Sherry Haar, Kowshik Saha, Sarif Patwary, Tuyen Duong Thanh Nguyen, Santosh Aryal
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Despite toxicity concerns of chemical mordants used in natural dyeing, there is limited research on the measurement, quality, and safe disposal of the chemical mordant effluent. This study measured the aluminum ions across the premordanting process of cotton print cloth using inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry and calculated the oxidizable organic matter in the effluent through chemical oxygen demand (COD). The amount of aluminum absorbed by the cotton print cloth was low (2.31%–5.16%). The effluent COD was 23.91g COD/kg. Upon neutralization of the acidic condition, the aluminum in the effluent met discharge to freshwater regulations, and the COD met discharge to U.S. municipal sewage systems. However, the Global Harmonized System restricts aluminum acetate dibasic from organic certification due to its boric acid content. The high mordant concentration in the effluent supports the reuse of mordant baths but not direct disposal to the land or standing waters.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-07-08T10:12:54Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20939662
Investigation of the Thermal Protective Performance of Shape Memory Fabric
System: Effect of Moisture and Position of Shape Memory Alloy
- Authors: Yehu Lu, Lijun Wang, Jiazhen He, Pengjun Xu, Wenfang Song
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  A prototype of temperature-responsive protective fabric assembly with shape memory alloy (SMA) spring was developed. The effect of moisture on the thermal protective performance of fabric was investigated under radiant heat exposure and hot surface contact. The thermal liner of fabric system was pretreated with moisture amount of 25%, 50%, and 100%. Meanwhile, the thermal protection of fabric assembly with SMA springs in different positions between the fabric layers was explored. The results showed that moisture above 25% had a positive influence on thermal protective performance of both traditional and SMA fabric assembly under two hazardous environments. The effect of moisture in SMA fabric assembly was more remarkable than that in fabric without spring. And the SMA spring located between thermal liner and moisture barrier provided better thermal protective performance. The research findings will be beneficial for manufacturing high-performance temperature-responsive fabric.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-07-08T09:46:34Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20937075
The Exploration of the Modular System in Textile and Apparel Design
- Authors: Chanjuan Chen, Kendra Lapolla
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The aim of this design research is to explore modular shapes and interlocking systems for apparel design using research through practice approach. As a transformable design approach, modular design features small standardized units that can be independently combined in various configurations to create different forms and provide multiple functions. However, there has been little hands-on integration of methods for developing more fitted garment designs and incorporating visually appealing surfaces, such as prints, within a modular system. By adopting Bye’s description of a research through practice approach, the researchers for this study aimed to explore modular textile systems that would result in more fitted garments and aesthetically appealing surfaces. Through documenting and analyzing a range of data from the design process and outcome of four experimental designs, this study resulted in the development of advanced research through a Focused Knowledge Design Practice framework.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-07-08T09:44:54Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20937061
Skills and Knowledge for Merchandising Professionals: The Case of the
South African Apparel Retail Industry
- Authors: Bertha Jacobs, Elena Karpova
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  This study explored skills and knowledge required for merchandising professionals to fulfill their roles and perform their responsibilities in the South African apparel retail industry. The apparel merchandising competency (AMC) framework was used as a theoretical foundation in this research. A phenomenological approach was followed to explore the perspective of professionals employed by South African retail companies. Semistructured, face-to-face, in-depth individual interviews were conducted with 16 merchandisers who had between 2 and 20 years of experience in the apparel industry. Atlas.ti software was used for data organization and analyses. Following the AMC framework, four topical areas emerged: (a) soft skills, (b) hard skills, (c) explicit knowledge, and (d) tacit knowledge. To fulfill their roles and perform their responsibilities, 8 soft skills, 7 hard skills, 10 explicit knowledge types, and 1 tacit knowledge type were identified as essential. Thick description of the findings using participant quotes and a graphical representation is presented.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-07-08T09:35:34Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20935516
Machine Learning (ML) for Tracking Fashion Trends: Documenting the
Frequency of the Baseball Cap on Social Media and the Runway
- Authors: Rachel Rose Getman, Denise Nicole Green, Kavita Bala, Utkarsh Mall, Nehal Rawat, Sonia Appasamy, Bharath Hariharan
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  With the proliferation of digital photographs and the increasing digitization of historical imagery, fashion studies scholars must consider new methods for interpreting large data sets. Computational methods to analyze visual forms of big data have been underway in the field of computer science through computer vision, where computers are trained to “read” images through a process called machine learning. In this study, fashion historians and computer scientists collaborated to explore the practical potential of this emergent method by examining a trend related to one particular fashion item—the baseball cap—across two big data sets—the Vogue Runway database (2000–2018) and the Matzen et al. Streetstyle-27K data set (2013–2016). We illustrate one implementation of high-level concept recognition to map a fashion trend. Tracking trend frequency helps visualize larger patterns and cultural shifts while creating sociohistorical records of aesthetics, which benefits fashion scholars and industry alike.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-06-18T11:17:08Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20931195
Fashioned Bodies in Roller Derby League Logos: Critical Analysis of Race,
Gender, Body Size and Position, Clothing, and Aesthetics
- Authors: Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Denise Nicole Green, Kelsie Doty
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Revival of roller derby in the early 2000s garnered significant interest in the sport, and an extensive network of leagues began to form. By 2018, approximately 1,500 leagues were operating in North America, each with a unique logo. In this study, we focus on the league logos as a potent form of embodied fashion representation. Using content analysis, we examined all of the logos for U.S. Women’s Flat Track Derby Association–member leagues and have interpreted our findings through a critical cultural analysis. Revival of roller derby in the aughts has repositioned the sport as inclusive of diverse bodies; however, the logos tell a different story. League logos perpetuate hyperfeminized, thin-centric, white bodies—that is, the norms that derby athletes are performatively challenging through participation in the sport.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-06-17T10:07:54Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20930086
Millennials’ Intention to Use Self-Checkout Technology in Different
Fashion Retail Formats: Perceived Benefits and Risks
- Authors: Hanna Lee, Karen K. Leonas
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  With an increase in automation, fashion retailers started to offer a self-checkout option in their stores to meet diverse consumers’ demand. Self-checkout technology has great potential to enhance the shopping experience of millennials, who increasingly dominate the market with increasing buying power, placing convenience as their top priority in the shopping process. However, despite the potential, it is unclear what drives and inhibits millennials to use self-checkout in the fashion retail context. Therefore, the aim of this study is to examine millennials’ intention to use self-checkout in the fashion retail environment with regard to their perceptions of benefits and risks. Data were collected from 352 millennials through an online survey. Perceived benefits and risks identified in this study are the key antecedents of the intention to use self-checkout in the fashion retail stores. Also, individuals who have a low need for human interaction are more likely to use self-checkout.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-05-19T09:52:49Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20926577
Muslim Women’s Purchasing Behaviors Toward Modest Activewear in the
United States
- Authors: Chanmi Hwang, Tae Ho Kim
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  This study examines Muslim women’s purchasing behaviors toward modest activewear in the United States and tests the underlying mechanism of intent to purchase activewear, based on the theory of planned behavior (TPB). A sample of veiled Muslim women (N = 328) participated in this study. Results from structural equation modeling revealed that perceived aesthetic attributes and compatibility with regard to apparel functionality, expressiveness, and aesthetics are significant predictors of attitude toward purchasing activewear. Attitude and subjective norm are significantly related to intent to purchase modest activewear, and religiosity indirectly influences purchase intention through the social norm. This research extends the TPB and contributes to the growing body of research on Muslim consumers’ purchasing behavior and to the growing modest apparel market and pro-hijab movement in the industry.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-05-18T10:24:44Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20926573
Sexy-Clothing Behavior of High School Girls: Sexual Self-Congruity and
Parental and Popular Girls’ Influences
- Authors: Jessie H. Chen-Yu, Anne Dillard Elkins, Marjorie J. T. Norton
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The present study focused on the sexy-clothing behavior of high school girls. Specifically, we examined whether high school girls wear sexy clothes to express their actual sexual self-concepts and achieve their ideal sexual self-concepts and whether parents and popular girls influence those behaviors. The results, obtained by applying structural equation modeling to analyze the data collected from 384 ninth-grade girls, imply that such girls wear sexy clothes to convey their actual sexual self-concepts and achieve their ideal sexual self-concepts. The girls’ perceptions of parents’ sexy-clothing approval and of popular girls’ sexy-clothing wearing behavior influence the high school girls’ sexy-clothing wearing behavior. Parents significantly influence high school girls’ tendencies to wear sexy clothes to express their actual sexual self-concepts. Popular girls’ sexy-clothing wearing behavior influences high school girls’ tendencies to wear sexy clothes to achieve their ideal sexual self-concepts. Implications of the findings are discussed.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-05-11T09:41:56Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20923729
Apparel Design Scholarship Practices: Analysis of ITAA Professionals’
Design Abstract Proceedings From 1999 to 2017
- Authors: Young-A Lee, Seoha Min, Sumin Helen Koo
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  We explored the topical trends of the International Textile and Apparel Association professionals’ Design Abstract Proceedings (DAP) and how apparel design scholarship has been cited in the discipline for the past two decades. Using a content analysis, three research objectives were as follows: to examine (a) designer-identified keywords trends of the DAP, (b) to examine DAP directly cited in scholarly works, and (c) to examine DAP not directly cited but related to designers’ scholarship. Six overarching themes (inspirational references, apparel design, technology, sustainability practices, textiles, and nonapparel) were identified through the keywords analysis and used for further analyses. We found that design scholars were not used to cite other relevant scholarly works or their own works in their scholarly design work. The study findings provide an awareness for the strong need to establish citation practices for design scholars, which will add to the body of knowledge in clothing and textiles and increase the impact of design scholarship beyond the discipline.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-04-29T09:56:40Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20921461
Fashion and the Buddha: What Buddhist Economics and Mindfulness Have to
Offer Sustainable Consumption
- Authors: Cosette M. Joyner Armstrong
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  While consumers increasingly expect fashion companies to be bastions of social and environmental causes, they also aspire for fashion in ways known to erode human well-being, evidencing an ethics–behavior gap. The purpose of this conceptual article is to explore how Buddhist economics (BE) and mindfulness could narrow this gap; a spiritual consciousness making consumer ethics more consequential. Classical economic theory is contrasted with BE, a moral framework, including moderation and nonviolence. Mindfulness practice is explored as a practice used to temper consumption. It is concluded that on the topics of human nature, self-identity, and the role of possessions, fashion epitomizes human suffering, from a Buddhist standpoint. This article’s contributions include educational guide points for consumers, a proposed definition of mindful clothing consumption, and identification of theoretical blind spots in fashion consumer behavior research considerably in need of attention to better understand the relationship between clothing and human well-being.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-04-10T09:38:47Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20917457
Body Mass Index and Body Satisfaction: Does Availability of Well-Fitting
Clothes Matter'
- Authors: Sarah Grogan, Simeon Gill, Kathryn Brownbridge, Gillian McChesney, Paula Wren, Jenny Cole, John Darby, Celina Jones, Christopher J. Armitage
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Relatively little is known about the factors that mediate the relationship between high body mass index (BMI) and reduced body satisfaction. This is the first study to investigate whether availability of well-fitting clothes mediates this relationship. Eighty-five women with an age range of 18–81 years were 3D body scanned and weighed and measured at Time 1, and number of retailers stocking their sizes (determined through body scans) was calculated. At Time 2, they completed an online body satisfaction measure. Body satisfaction at Time 2 was predicted by both BMI and availability of well-fitting clothes in UK retailers at Time 1, with the two factors explaining 27% of the variance in body satisfaction. Availability of clothes size partially mediated the relationship between BMI and body satisfaction. Results suggest that the clothing retail sector might contribute to reducing body dissatisfaction by providing a wider range of choices for all sizes of consumer.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-04-01T09:49:02Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20915528
In Pursuit of Design Vision Through Design Practice
- Authors: Kim Hongyoun Hahn
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  This article is about the designer’s journey in design research where the designer has developed a body of work. The development of each project’s design process, method, technique, and practice-led research are addressed. The purpose of this article was to contribute to the design discipline by sharing an example of how a design researcher develops a body of work. This article first describes the designer’s design value and design process which has guided the designer’s creative work and practice. The 10 different creative works are presented in chronological order as the designer’s design development progressed. The designer’s design framework is presented along with the future direction of the designer’s design work.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-03-31T11:04:28Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20913115
Apparel and Textile Design Scholarship: Shared Knowledge, Dissemination,
and Evaluation
- Authors: Jean Parsons, Kristen Morris
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Apparel and textile (AT) design scholarship can be classified in diverse ways. As a professional organization, International Textile and Apparel Association is in a unique position to lead in identifying what constitutes contributions to research in the field. Defining, presenting, and evaluating design production as scholarship is critical, especially as the broader design disciplines become more rigorous and academic institutions become more focused on evaluation metrics. Our purpose was to examine AT design scholarship through the lens of three critical components of research: shared knowledge, dissemination, and evaluation. These three components of research should be points of reference for AT design scholarship in moving forward to establish a unified vision of research that focuses on designed objects as valuable forms of scholarship. Additional work is necessary to identify core values that represent AT design knowledge, disseminate in formats that facilitate contributions to research, and measure the impact of design scholarship.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-02-18T09:41:58Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20903809
Teaching Sustainability in Fashion Design Courses Through a Zero-Waste
Design Project
- Authors: Hae Jin Gam, Jennifer Banning
  First page: 151
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  With the increased importance of learning about sustainability in fashion design curriculum, this article reports the teaching zero-waste design in existing fashion design courses that teach skills needed to create and construct garments. This study documents the development and delivery of a zero-waste design project in two different levels of fashion design courses. Data were collected before and after the zero-waste design project implementation. By learning about zero-waste design, students’ interest in sustainable living and fashion and consciousness about generating fabric waste was increased. Written comments about student experiences also supported these findings and indicated that the zero-waste design project positively influenced their awareness of sustainability practices.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-02-21T09:15:36Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20906470
Simultaneous Thermochromic Pigment Printing and Se-NP Multifunctional
Finishing of Cotton Fabrics for Smart Childrenswear
- Authors: Tarek M. Abou Elmaaty, Shereen A. Abdeldayem, Nashwa Elshafai
  First page: 182
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Thermochromic (TC) pigments offer significant potential for functional and aesthetic design of smart textile materials. In this study, TC (blue and red) pigments were applied to cotton fabrics and printed on especially designed childrenswear by flat screen printing technique. The antibacterial and ultraviolet protection functionalities have been implemented into the fabrics under study by using selenium nanoparticles. The factors affecting the printing process were studied and the optimum formula was screen printed to produce the pattern’s designs of childrenswear. After conducting several tests, the results showed a significant color-changing effect depending on temperature, the color fastness properties to light, wash, and rubbing were excellent. Antibacterial activity of printed fabrics was very good against Bacillus cereus and Escherichia coli bacteria and the anti-ultraviolet protection was found to be very good. The printed fabrics can be as protective childrenswear as shown in this work.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-01-21T10:53:39Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X19899992
The Use of Dress in Objectification Research
- Authors: Sharron J. Lennon, Kim K. P. Johnson
  First page: 196
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  To objectify another person is to dehumanize and treat that person as an object. Objectification has interested dress scholars, and some objectification scholars have acknowledged that clothing and bodies act to facilitate or resist objectification. Research purposes were to determine the extent to which dress had been used to evoke objectification in experiments when objectification was an outcome and to determine whether internal validity had been correctly established. Experimental objectification research was content analyzed using descriptive statistics. A database search resulted in 80 refereed empirical research articles containing 91 experiments. Dress was used to evoke objectification in 57 experiments; yet, many provided no rationale for using dress stimuli or conducted manipulation checks or stimulus pretests. These practices call into question the validity of research results and may explain inconsistent results. Opportunities for dress scholars and recommendations for teaching and for research best practices are offered.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-02-20T01:22:16Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20907158
Introduction to Focused Issue: History of Textiles and Fashion
- Authors: Linda Welters, Abby Lillethun
  First page: 227
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The introduction to the focused issue draws attention to research in the history of textiles and fashion among International Textile and Apparel Association members. It is divided into three parts: the past, the present, and the future. In the first section, a review of the history of dress and textiles under the umbrella of “clothing and textiles” is provided. In the section on the present, a snapshot is given of the current situation now that dress and textile history has been accepted by a wide range of academic disciplines. Finally, suggestions are offered to move the historic area forward in the journal and the organization.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-06-30T09:26:15Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20935637
The Ties That Bind: Britain’s Use of Scottish Highland Dress
- Authors: David Loranger, Eulanda A. Sanders
  First page: 240
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  For over 300 years, Britain has influenced Scotland’s national identity. Scottish Highland dress, which consists of kilts and tartans has been appropriated, manipulated, and transformed by the British in order to forward political, commercial, and social objectives. Scotland’s national dress has contributed to a more cohesive identity within the United Kingdom. However, available research only examines specific instances of British influence on—and usage of—kilts and tartans. The purpose of this study was to identify and explore a sample of key figures and historical events that illustrate the use of Scottish Highland dress to forward British interests. The researchers triangulated databases and secondary literature along with extant objects and materials, with the aim of developing a more holistic understanding of appropriation, manipulation, and transformation. Findings indicate how the context and usage of Scottish Highland dress was transformed over time.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-04-13T09:40:15Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20910789
L. Candee & Co. and the U.S. Rubber Shoe Industry
- Authors: Arlesa J. Shephard
  First page: 255
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  The rubber shoe industry was a large and thriving industry in the 19th century. Research on this industry provides insight about technology development, the entrepreneurial spirit, the rise of industry, challenges with intellectual property rights, and efforts made to maintain market dominance in the 19th and early 20th centuries. This research examines L. Candee & Company which was one of the early rubber shoe manufacturers in the United States. A case study of this company parallels the story of the growth and decline of the rubber shoe industry. Early investment in this industry required great risk. Once established, the industry thrived and grew into a highly profitable industry. In the early 20th century, the rubber shoe industry began to decline as new technology and products were developed.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-04-13T10:06:20Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20918018
The “Use of Lines in Your Clothing Will Work Magic”: Advice to Women
From 1914 to 1961 on Using Line to Design an Ideal Body Type
- Authors: Jessica L. Ridgway
  First page: 270
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Women have sought and received advice on how to dress for as long as they have been putting clothing on their bodies. One area in which women have received advice on dressing for their body type is the use of line in dress as an illusion to change the way body shape and size is perceived. This study was undertaken to gain a better historical understanding of advice on dressing for different body types between 1914 and 1961. Advice books and textbooks written for women from 1914 to 1961 that included prescriptive information on how to dress for various body types were explored. This time period was selected as it coincides with critical years in the growth and maturity of the home economic movement in the United States. A content analysis of 15 historical texts revealed trends found within the themes of body ideal, line as illusion, and figure types.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-02-18T09:44:18Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20905358
Song Brocade in the Ming and Qing Dynasties
- Authors: Kun Chen, Dan Lu, Zimin Jin, Miao Su, Jing Jin
  First page: 285
  Abstract: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Ahead of Print.
  Song brocade is Chinese traditional brocade that originated in the Song dynasty but flourished in the Ming and Qing dynasties. Its delicate patterns, graceful colors, and exquisite techniques show the unique craftsmanship of ancient China. The fabric structure, pattern, and weaving technique had changed greatly because of the social environment, cultural customs, and other factors during the Ming and Qing dynasties. This article proposed a new series of classification for Song brocade patterns in Ming and Qing dynasties and recurred the fabric weave of Song brocade in Ming and Qing dynasties. Besides, the research provided a concise English-language description of historical background, varieties, and specifications based primarily on Chinese-language research publications.
  Citation: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
  PubDate: 2020-06-17T10:10:34Z
  DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20932657