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Showing 1 - 20 of 20 Journals sorted alphabetically - Revista Eletrônica de Moda     Open Access  
CBR - Consumer Behavior Review     Open Access   (Followers: 2)
Clothing Cultures     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 5)
Consumer Behavior Studies Journal     Open Access   (Followers: 2)
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 13)
Fashion and Textiles     Open Access   (Followers: 17)
Fashion Practice : The Journal of Design, Creative Process & the Fashion     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 13)
Fashion Theory : The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture     Full-text available via subscription   (Followers: 30)
Fashion, Style & Popular Culture     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 9)
Ground Breaking     Open Access   (Followers: 1)
International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 17)
International Journal of Fashion Studies     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 4)
Journal of Fashion Technology & Textile Engineering     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 10)
Journal of Global Fashion Marketing     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 6)
Journal of Media Business Studies     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 3)
Journal of the Association for Consumer Research     Full-text available via subscription   (Followers: 7)
Luxury Research Journal     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 2)
Textile : The Journal of Cloth and Culture     Hybrid Journal   (Followers: 27)
Transactions of the Burgon Society     Open Access   (Followers: 4)
ZoneModa Journal     Open Access   (Followers: 1)
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Fashion and Textiles
Journal Prestige (SJR): 0.185
Citation Impact (citeScore): 1
Number of Followers: 17  

  This is an Open Access Journal Open Access journal
ISSN (Online) 2198-0802
Published by SpringerOpen Homepage  [261 journals]
  • Optimization of dyeing parameters of cotton standardized samples for
           laundry test of dye transfer inhibition program

    • Abstract: In order to prevent light-colored clothes from being stained by dyes released from dark clothes during the washing process, some new-type washing machines have developed the dye transfer inhibition washing program. However, there is no certified reference materials for the test of dye transfer inhibition function. To this end, cotton fabric and reactive dyes are used as experimental materials to prepare standardized samples to evaluate the dye transfer inhibition function of washing machines. Firstly, the single factor analysis method is used to analyze the significance of the dyeing parameters including dye dosage, dyeing temperature, sodium sulfate dosage and sodium carbonate dosage. Secondly, a 4-factor 5-level experimental design and theoretical prediction of the best dyeing parameters are successively carried out through central composite design and response surface method. Two evaluation indicators, the dye release amount of the standardized sample of dyed fabric and the color difference value of the standardized sample of white fabric after washing, are proposed as the response values for response surface analysis to search the optimal dying parameters in theory. The optimal dyeing parameters obtained through response surface analysis are that the dosage of dye is 5.63% (owf), the dyeing temperature is 60 °C, the dosage of sodium sulfate is 93.60 g/L, and the dosage of sodium carbonate is 15 g/L. Experimental results indicate that the standardized samples prepared with optimal dyeing parameters can effectively distinguish the dye transfer inhibition function of washing machines.
      PubDate: 2020-11-25
  • Body shape classification of Korean middle-aged women using 3D

    • Abstract: Most Korean apparel companies lack suitable dress forms for the different body types of middle-aged Korean women, resulting in poor clothing fit for them. As a part of an ongoing project to develop a dress form that fully reflects Korean middle-aged women’s bodies, this study classified the body shapes and examined the anthropometric characteristics of women in their 40s and 50s. The 3D anthropometric data of 302 middle-aged women of normal weight (18.5 ≤ BMI < 25) were obtained from the 6th Size Korea. Sixty-three measurements related to the construction of dress form were chosen. Based on the scores from five factors, the body shapes of Korean middle-aged women were classified into four types: Type 1 had a broader shoulder and a slightly developed upper body but a more developed lower body; Type 2 had a longer, relatively thin and flat, vertical body; Type 3 had a shorter body and smaller torso than the other types, and the lower body was more developed than the upper; Type 4 had a bulky upper body and the highest BMI, but the lower body was rather small. The nine key measurements in classifying the body shapes of Korean middle-aged women were found by discriminant analysis. The characteristics of representative body shapes obtained in this study can be useful for developing dress forms for clothing that better fits Korean middle-aged women.
      PubDate: 2020-11-15
  • Approaching fashion design trend applications using text mining and
           semantic network analysis

    • Abstract: This study aims to identify fashion trends with design features and provide a consumer-driven fashion design application in digital dynamics, by using text mining and semantic network analysis. We examined the current role and approach of fashion forecasting and developed a trend analysis process using consumer text data. This study focuses on analyzing blog posts regarding fashion collections. Specifically, we chose the jacket as our fashion item to produce practical results for our trend report, as it is an item used in multiple seasons and can be representative of fashion as a whole. We collected 29,436 blog posts from the past decade that included the keywords “jacket” and “fashion collection.” After the data collection, we established a list of fashion trend words for each design feature by classifying styles (e.g., retro), colors (e.g., black), fabrics (e.g., leather), and patterns (e.g., checkered). A time-series cluster analysis was used to categorize fashion trends into four clusters—increasing, decreasing, evergreen, and seasonal trends—and a semantic network analysis visualized the latest season’s dominant trends along with their corresponding design features. We concluded that these results are useful as they can reduce the time-consuming process of fashion trend analysis and offer consumer-driven fashion design guidelines.
      PubDate: 2020-11-05
  • Non-boundaries of style represented in fashion Instagram: a social media
           platform as a digital space–time

    • Abstract: This study qualitatively examines the “non-boundaries of style” represented in fashion on a social media platform. The term “non-boundary” refers to a nonlinear boundary or distinction based on the more flexible time and space in the digital era, rather than a space at a certain time. Based on a theoretical review of media ecology, that is, how the media environment transforms human experience and affects society and culture, the spatial and temporal aspects of digital platforms were characterized as transcendental, open social, realistic virtual, and aesthetic spaces in everyday lives. The fashion-related images from the Instagram account of global fashion influencer Susanna Lau (@susiebubble), uploaded from May 2012–June 2019, were then analyzed, including their titles, caption content, hashtags, and followers’ commentary. Analysis showed that the images represent a digital lifestyle and trace the non-boundaries of style across the binaries of work–leisure, public–private, real–virtual, and geography–culture.
      PubDate: 2020-10-15
  • Unifying yet dividing: voices of pussyhat maker–wearers who participated
           in the 2017 Women’s Marches

    • Abstract: On January 21, 2017, several million protesters took part in the “Women’s March on Washington” and its more than 400 sister Marches held in cities throughout the U.S. and across the globe. One enduring image of these Marches was the (often pink) pussyhat. In this qualitative study we examine broader issues of inclusion and exclusion within craftivism and take a closer look at the way craftivism supported, and potentially detracted from, its intended purpose as a unifying symbol of the Marches. From a dataset of 511 surveys distributed and collected online, 71 “maker–wearers” were identified and investigated for this study. While our overarching question focused on the role of craftivism related to the inaugural March and the pussyhat, we seek to understand not only the voices of craftivists, but also the voices of marchers who reported negative and/or controversial associations with the pussyhat. Building on previous findings that the majority of marchers we surveyed perceive the pussyhat as an anti-Trump symbol that represented women’s power, strength, and solidarity, a small number of our respondents and emergent voices in mainstream media have indicated concerns about potential racism and trans person exclusion represented by the pussyhat. We conclude that even as the pussyhat is recognized as a unifying symbol, it is simultaneously representative of exclusionary, potentially divisive practices within both craftivism and feminism. As awareness of the pussyhat’s problematic symbolism is spreading, new conversations have spawned about intersectionality and the implementation of more inclusive practices.
      PubDate: 2020-10-05
  • Digital atmosphere of fashion retail stores

    • Abstract: This study sheds light on a prominent issue in retailing: how the digital atmosphere can affect the consumer decision-making process in a fashion retail store. Digital devices and services such as digital screens and digital signage are widely employed in fashion retail stores, transforming the way consumers make decisions about purchasing fashion products. This research investigates how the digital atmosphere affects consumers’ purchase behavior patterns based on the attention-interest-desire-search-action-share (AIDSAS) model. The findings show that attention is a key antecedent to interest, desire, and behavioral responses (search, action, and share) triggered by the digital atmosphere. The findings further suggest that attention has significantly positive effects on consumers’ purchasing patterns of utilizing the digital atmosphere in two types of fashion retail stores: sports and luxury stores. However, we find that these positive effects are more pronounced for sports retail stores than luxury retail stores. This research contributes to understanding consumer behavior related to the digital atmosphere of fashion retail stores by applying the AIDSAS model and helps uncover the stepwise relationships between attention to the store atmosphere-interest/desire and the products-behavior response. These findings have practical implications that can be applied in the fashion industry.
      PubDate: 2020-09-25
  • Constructing cultural identity through weaving among Ri-Bhoi women
           weavers: a symbolic interactionist approach

    • Abstract: With this interpretive study, we sought to understand how weaving as an activity contributed to constructing women handloom weavers’ cultural identity in the region of Ri-Bhoi, a district in Meghalaya, India, by exploring weavers’ experiences through changing tides of modernization in the handloom industry of the region. We adopted a lens of symbolic interaction to consider the ways in which interactions within the Ri-Bhoi cultural context contributed to meanings about the women’s weaving activities and their cultural identities. An ethnographic approach was implemented using participant observation, field notes/journaling, and informal and formal interviews to collect relevant data. Analyses revealed four themes representing the value that Ri-Bhoi women weavers attached to various aspects of their weaving tradition, which in turn, supported their cultural identities: (a) maintaining the tradition of weaving through acquisition and exchange of knowledge, (b) securing social support from family and community, (c) maintaining the tradition of weaving through creation of textiles that symbolize tribe and culture, and (d) achieving a sense of fulfillment (i.e., joy, happiness, and pride). Further exploration revealed that the modernization of the Ri-Bhoi handloom industry increased engagement of women in weaving and their passion to preserve their tradition, which further strengthened their connection to weaving. Implications and future research directions are discussed.
      PubDate: 2020-09-15
  • Bio-EPDM/tungsten oxide nanocomposite foam with improved thermal storage
           and sea water resistance

    • Abstract: Bio ethylene propylene diene monomer (EPDM) produced with sugarcane-derived ethylene is an eco-friendly alternative material that can perform similarly to an oil-based synthetic rubber while reducing dependence on fossil resources. In this study, bio-EPDM/tungsten oxide nanocomposite was prepared to improve thermal insulation properties of bio-EPDM foam for application in highly functional eco-friendly diving wetsuits. The synthesized tungsten bronze nanorods (TBNRs) were doped with sodium and added to the bio-EPDM compound, then foam was generated by molding at 155 °C under a high-pressure. After foam molding, the effects of TBNRs on the sea water resistance as well as the thermal and mechanical properties of bio-EPDM foam were investigated. As a result, TBNRs remarkably improved the softness and photothermal properties of bio-EPDM foam without a significant reduction of their mechanical properties. Especially, the excellent dimensional stability of the bio-EPDM foam with TBNRs under the sea water circumstance highlights its superiority as a material for marine sports. Overall results indicate that the bio-EPDM foam material containing TBNRs at the optimum ratio can be fully utilized for the development of eco-friendly and high-performance wetsuit materials with excellent elasticity, flexibility, and thermal insulation properties.
      PubDate: 2020-09-05
  • Application of persimmon ( Diospyros kaki L.) peel extract in indigo
           dyeing as an eco-friendly alternative reductant

    • Abstract: The aim of this study is to investigate the efficacy of persimmon (Diospyros kaki L.) peel extract as a reductant for indigo dyeing. Dried persimmon peel was water extracted and its sugar contents and functionalities were determined. Its reducing power was studied in terms of redox potential of the indigo bath and color strength (K/S value) of the ramie fabrics dyed in the indigo reduction bath. Total sugar content of the extract was 74.3%. Antioxidant capacity reached up to 86.0% at 3.5 μg/mL of the extract concentration. The persimmon peel extract had an effect on indigo reduction and the maximum color strength was obtained within one or two day. At 2–3% of the extract concentration, the redox potential of the indigo bath was maintained in the range of − 550 ~ − 600 mV for 10 days. With increase in the extract concentration, reduction state lasted for longer time and higher color strength was obtained. The persimmon peel extract can be used for indigo reduction dyeing as a sustainable, nontoxic, biodegradable alternative to sodium dithionite.
      PubDate: 2020-08-25
  • Physiological and psychological neck load imposed by ballistic helmets
           during simulated military activities

    • Abstract: The wearing of ballistic helmets commonly coordinated with a night vision device (NVD) often imposes a load to the neck of a soldier. A lighter ballistic helmet promises comfort and enhanced combat performance, but technological developments have not provided a complete solution satisfying all the requirements, including cost. Moreover, the change in munition has led to increasing demand for the attachment of more accessories to the helmet, providing advanced functions but additional weight. Therefore, the current study quantified the neck muscle strain caused by the varying weight of a ballistic helmet, particularly during simulated infantry activities with moderate neck flexion and neck extension against a head-weight in the prone position. Eight healthy males participated on four separate days. On each day, different loads were placed on the head: 0 kg (no helmet, NH) to 2.07 kg (1.5 kg helmet with a 0.5 kg night vision device, HH&NVD). The results showed that prone shooting imposed substantial muscular strain on the splenius capitis (neck extensor), resulting in a 7–9% maximal voluntary contraction depending on the overall helmet loads. In addition, a gradual increase in the subjective neck load and pain in proportion to the overall weight of the helmet assembly was noted, and the heaviest loads caused severe complaints for muscular discomfort. This paper recommends strategies for designing and developing ballistic helmets as well as further methodological issues on evaluating neck muscle strain caused by the helmet weight.
      PubDate: 2020-08-15
  • A Fulbright Scholar’s report on textiles and apparel education in

    • Abstract: Myanmar, once known as Burma, has a substantial history in the textiles and apparel industry. In the past, the nation’s contribution to the industry was small compared to that of other Asian nations. However, Myanmar’s global trade in textiles and apparel products has increased dramatically after the European Union suspended its sanctions in 2013 and after the United States issued a waiver and general license in 2012 (Kent, Can manufacturing succeed in Myanmar,, 2012). This trend is expected to continue, with Myanmar’s apparel exports projected to more than double by 2020, reaching $4 billion ( Given the economic growth potential of the textiles and apparel industry, it is imperative for Myanmar to support textiles and apparel education regarding design, product development, retailing, and marketing. The author served as a U.S. Fulbright Scholar to Myanmar for the 2018–2019 term. She taught a course in the MBA program at Yangon University of Economics in Yangon, Myanmar, in addition to working in the Myanmar fashion industry to support fashion entrepreneurs using traditional Myanmar textiles and designs. In this report, the author provides her insight on the current status of Myanmar’s textiles and apparel education, along with information on the textiles and apparel industry in Myanmar.
      PubDate: 2020-08-05
  • Something seems fishy: mainstream consumer response to drag queen imagery

    • Abstract: This study investigates how drag queen imagery in advertising and mainstream consumers’ tolerance towards homosexuality (i.e., drag queens) affect their attitudes towards the advertisement and brand in the context of beauty brand advertising. Based on the social identity theory, this study posits that implicit (vs. explicit) drag queen-themed imagery and consumers holding high tolerance as an in-group of LGBTQ+ cultures (vs. out-group of lower tolerance individuals) would have greater impact on ad attitude and brand attitude independently and together. A web-based experiment reveals that while different imagery types (implicit vs. explicit) in ads do not differentiate attitudes toward ad and brand, consumers’ individual tolerance of the drag queen culture positively affects such responses. Additionally, the ad imagery and consumer tolerance toward drag queens have an interaction effect on brand attitude via ad attitude in the explicit drag queen-themed imagery condition but not in implicit imagery. The results add insight to a growing body of literature on the LGBTQ+ and social identity theory research and benefit marketers with a better understanding of how to manage drag queen-themed advertisements within mainstream media.
      PubDate: 2020-07-25
  • Exploration of the body–garment relationship theory through the
           analysis of a sheath dress

    • Abstract: The apparel industry is replete with assumptions regarding the body-garment relationship. Traditional anthropometry focuses on linear body measurements, which are inadequate to describe and classify the human body-form for apparel pattern development. To enable the development of a body-form based block system, this case study explored the body-garment relationship for a sheath dress to determine if apparel block shapes could be categorized based on distinct body-form variations. A modified version of Gazzuolo’s (1985) body-garment relationship theory guided the development and analysis of the study. Pattern blocks were fit to 39 female subjects, with 16 dimensions extracted from specific pattern components and graphed to reveal between one and five groups per dimension. Visual analysis of the sample’s body scans revealed 27 body-form variations with 99 categorical descriptions. Categorical descriptions were compared to the dimensional values resulting in ten suggestions for a body-form based block system, and seventeen assumptions that require further analysis. In conclusion, this case study discovered multiple body-form variations across a single size, but block shapes could not be identified due to the wide variation in the sample. Future studies should assess a statistically significant sample of individuals with in-depth analysis of a single body region to determine if there are generalizable body-form variations across the population.
      PubDate: 2020-07-15
  • Correction to: The development of a performance hand wear and tools
           product innovation framework

    • Abstract: An amendment to this paper has been published and can be accessed via the original article.
      PubDate: 2020-07-14
  • Experimental design and evaluation of a moisture responsive sports bra

    • Abstract: Women prefer to wear a sports bra not only for exercising, but also during resting and daily activities, highlighting deficiencies in current sports bra designs. The purpose of this study was to design, develop, and evaluate a sports bra that offers responsive behavior, in terms of breast support and comfort, both during rest and running conditions. A biomimetic design framework guided the conceptual phase, and moisture responsive plant biomechanics offered a feasible functional model. Fourteen sports bras were developed and wear- tested using college athletes. The moisture responsive panels inside the bra absorbed the sweat generated during running, making the fabric thicker when wet (statistically significant via 3D body scanning results), while maintaining comfort and perceived breast support through sweaty conditions (confirmed via questionnaire results). Adjustments to the underbust band tightness should be pursued, aiming to further improve sports bra functionality, promoting women health and their lifestyles.
      PubDate: 2020-07-05
  • Consumer resistance to innovation: smart clothing

    • Abstract: Smart clothing is believed to have an enormous growth potential, but at present, it is not so attractive in terms of sales. This study identified various obstacles affecting consumers’ interest in smart clothing. Interviews were conducted with consumers who are resistant to innovation, those who would continue to use their phones and wearable devices of which safety and functionality have already been proven but reject smart clothing. Availability, which refers to the extent to which consumers can use a product or service, is also a significant factor influencing the innovation resistance of smart clothing. It was also observed that consumers reject smart clothing as an act of resisting innovation; many stated that they would not buy smart clothing unless a trustable brand produces it with appropriate functions and lower prices. Some people said that they refuse to purchase smart clothing due to aesthetic dissatisfaction despite the improved quality and performance. These results indicate that manufacturers should consider what functionality or technology would be appropriate to incorporate in clothing while ensuring fashionable styles and availability in many sizes.
      PubDate: 2020-06-25
  • Collegiate female athletes’ body image and clothing behaviors

    • Abstract: This study investigated the body image experiences unique to collegiate female athletes in relation to their apparel wear. Female athletes (n = 36) participated in interview sessions, 3D body scanning, and photography of garment fit, and the Multidimensional Body-Self Relations Questionnaire (MBSRQ). Through Qualtrics, the MBSRQ was distributed to female college students nationwide, to obtain a larger participant pool (Lean sport athletes (n = 36), non-lean sport athletes (n = 42) and non-athletes (n = 101). Results indicated that both sports groups were most influenced by sport specific body ideals. Correlation of body image and athletic uniforms was more influenced by the fit of the uniform than by the categorization of the sport. Both lean and non-lean sport group participants expressed dissatisfaction in pant fit. 3D body scans revealed similar body proportions and shape between sports groups. MBSRQ results indicated no significant difference between sports groups but higher body image scores in comparison to non-athletes.
      PubDate: 2020-06-15
  • Achieving corporate sustainability performance: The influence of corporate
           ethical value, and leader-member exchange on employee behaviors and
           organizational performance

    • Abstract: This study investigated how corporate sustainability performance can be attained through the interface of corporate ethical values and leader-member exchange, and how employees’ positive and negative behaviors can influence these relationships. A total of 310 data sets were collected and used to test our hypotheses. To assess the factorability of the variables, exploratory factor analysis was conducted, and confirmatory factor analysis was conducted to test the fit and validity of the measurement model. Then, the structural model proceeded to test the hypotheses. The results of this study found that employee behaviors can highly influence corporate sustainability performance. Depending on contextual or/and relational factors, employee behaviors can either encourage more organizational citizenship behavior or alleviate counterproductive work behavior. These findings demonstrate that it is critical not only to create an ethical working environment but also to develop quality relationships with direct managers.
      PubDate: 2020-06-05
  • Art, life, and the fashion museum: for a more solidarian exhibition

    • Abstract: This article departs from the century-long understanding that fashion connects ‘life and art’, an understanding once advocated by Hans Siemsen in his avantgarde journal Zeit-Echo, to discuss how the museum constitutes an important space, or arena, where this connection is taking place. The museum as we know it is a space dedicated to displaying objects of art—and to some degree, of everyday life objects—and as such it constitutes a space for the linkage between the aesthetic and the profane, between art and life. However, as will be argued, as a space that has increasingly become dedicated to fashion—as a cultural, social and not least economic phenomenon—the museum does not embrace its full potential in displaying and problematizing fashion’s close and real relation to actual life, and especially, the very lives that produce it. The museum and its curatorial practices, it will be argued, ought to strive less to offer its audiences spectacular displays of extravagant designer fashion—and instead dare to deal with the urgent quest for and necessity of a reformed fashion industry in which textile and garment workers can actually lead safe and liveable lives.
      PubDate: 2020-06-05
  • The development of a performance hand wear and tools product innovation

    • Abstract: Humans wear products and use tools that interface with their hands to provide abrasion resistance, impact protection, grip, thermal comfort, and detailed maneuvers. The skills needed to design new and innovative products for the hand are multi-faceted. Academic programs in the US typically focus on soft goods (textile and apparel) or hard goods (industrial and product design/engineering) based design. Therefore, students often do not learn all of the available skills and technologies needed to design hand wear performance products because of the pedagogical split between the different academic disciplines. This case study outlines a three-phase innovation framework, for use by designers throughout the product creation process, specifically for creating performance products and tools for the hand. The phases include strategies for: (1) understanding the hand wear and tool project background, (2) defining the user’s 3D and 2D hand and (3) hand wear and tool product innovation. The paper will also demonstrate how the framework was implemented by students in a graduate level design studio, to create new gloves for athletes. The framework could also be used by students and professionals to design innovative products for other users and to improve safety and overall performance.
      PubDate: 2020-05-25
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Heriot-Watt University
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