Pages: 138 - 151 Abstract: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Volume 30, Issue 2, Page 138-151, April 2018. Purpose Stretch fabrics are employed to create compression in garments for medical, sports, and fitness applications. Although potential correlations between wearing compression garments and physiological or performance metrics have been studied, such correlations require knowledge of the actual compression caused by garments. The purpose of this paper is to demonstrate, compare, and contrast different methods for measuring compression delivered by an exemplar compression garment. Design/methodology/approach The exemplar compression garment is a plain jersey knit maternity band. The compression delivered by this garment was determined via three different methods – Tekscan pressure mapping system, Hohenstein Measurement System (HOSY), and a fabric-based analytical model employing uniaxial fabric tensile data. Findings HOSY and the fabric-based model, assuming a circular cross section for the garment, provided comparable results for compression versus garment height. However, these methods did not capture the varying compression delivered at different transverse locations when the subject was noncircular in cross section. Assuming an elliptical cross section, the fabric-based model predicted results that were comparable to those measured by the Tekscan system: for example, compressions were approximately 130-160 percent greater at the hip, and approximately 60-100 percent lower at the posterior, than HOSY revealed. Further, the Tekscan system allows the effect of movement on compression to be captured. Originality/value This paper compares and contrasts three compression measurement methods and demonstrates the importance of angular position and height dependencies. Further, the fabric-based model is presented as a tool to assist design of compression garments. Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology PubDate: 2018-03-20T02:35:50Z DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-01-2017-0008
Pages: 152 - 158 Abstract: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Volume 30, Issue 2, Page 152-158, April 2018. Purpose The paper focused onto the development of microcapsules by using two essential oils. It proposes the uses of eucalyptus oil and cedarwood oil as a natural insecticide. The purpose of this paper is to demonstrate the application of developed microcapsules to impart insect repellency on textile substrate. Design/methodology/approach The paper opted for an experimental study using two essential oils and gum in formations of microcapsules through a simple coaseravtion encapsulation technique. The developed solution was analyzed, including confirmation of size and structure through. Application of developed finish on substrate was also undertaken to prove better ability as repellent fabric. Findings The paper highlights useful invention of microencapsulated fabric developed with the combination of gum acacia and eucalyptus oil as core and shell material. The developed fabric has better ability to repel silverfish as compared to microencapsulated fabric developed with gum acacia (shell) and cedarwood oil (core). Research limitations/implications Due to the lack of time and less availability of essential oils, only two oils were used to test the insect repellent behavior. Practical implications This paper fulfills an identified need, it includes implications for the development of a very useful natural insecticide to repel silverfish (Lepisma saccharina) insect. This insect is a very common problem found in cloth wardrobes and bookshelves; it mainly attacks the fabric with cellulosic content and starch. Social implications Society will get major benefit of using these microencapsulated finished fabrics, which repel silverfish from their home and keep their clothing and books safe for longer period. The natural fragrance and medicinal benefits of these essential oils can never be ignored. Originality/value This study sets a new approach to repel insects like silverfish from the bookshelves and clothing wardrobes. A layer of insect repellent microencapsulated finished fabric can be added in these shelves and wardrobes. It is an eco-friendly approach of using natural essential oils instead of chemical insecticides. Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology PubDate: 2018-03-26T10:22:36Z DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-02-2017-0022
Pages: 159 - 174 Abstract: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Volume 30, Issue 2, Page 159-174, April 2018. Purpose Currently, a common method of reconstructing mannequin is based on the body measurements or body features, which only preserve the body size lacking of the accurate body geometric shape information. However, the same human body measurement does not equal to the same body shape. This may result in an unfit garment for the target human body. The purpose of this paper is to propose a novel scanning-based pipeline to reconstruct the personalized mannequin, which preserves both body size and body shape information. Design/methodology/approach The authors first capture the body of a subject via 3D scanning, and a statistical body model is fit to the scanned data. This results in a skinned articulated model of the subject. The scanned body is then adjusted to be pose-symmetric via linear blending skinning. The mannequin part is then extracted. Finally, a slice-based method is proposed to generate a shape-symmetric 3D mannequin. Findings A personalized 3D mannequin can be reconstructed from the scanned body. Compared to conventional methods, the method can preserve both the size and shape of the original scanned body. The reconstructed mannequin can be imported directly into the apparel CAD software. The proposed method provides a step for digitizing the apparel manufacturing. Originality/value Compared to the conventional methods, the main advantage of the authors’ system is that the authors can preserve both size and geometry of the original scanned body. The main contributions of this paper are as follows: decompose the process of the mannequin reconstruction into pose symmetry and shape symmetry; propose a novel scanning-based pipeline to reconstruct a 3D personalized mannequin; and present a slice-based method for the symmetrization of the 3D mesh. Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology PubDate: 2018-03-15T03:42:47Z DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-05-2017-0067
Pages: 175 - 194 Abstract: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Volume 30, Issue 2, Page 175-194, April 2018. Purpose The purpose of this paper is to develop an automated human body measurement extraction system using simple inexpensive equipment with minimum requirement of human assistance. This research further leads to the comparison of extracted measurements to established methods to analyze the error. The extracted measurements can be used to assist the production of custom-fit apparel. This is an effort to reduce the cost of expensive 3-D body scanners and to make the system available to the user at home. Design/methodology/approach A single camera body measurement system is proposed, implemented, and pilot tested. This system involves a personal computer and a webcam operating within a space of controlled lighting. The system will take two images of the user, extract body silhouettes, and perform measurement extraction. The camera is automatically calibrated using the software each time of scanning considering the scanning space. The user will select a front view and a side view among the images captured, and specify the height. In this pilot study, 31 subjects were recruited and the accuracy of 8 human body measurements were compared with the manual measurements and measurements extracted from a commercial 3-D body scanner. Findings The system achieved reasonable measurement performance within 10 percent accuracy for seven out of the eight measurements, while four out of eight parameters obtained a performance similar to the commercial scanner. It is proved that human body measurement extraction can be done using inexpensive equipment to obtain reasonable results. Originality/value This study is aimed at developing a proof-of-concept for inexpensive body scanning system, with an effort to benchmark measurement accuracy, available to an average user providing the ability to acquire self-body measurements to be used to purchase custom-fit apparel. This system can potentially boost the customization of apparel and revolutionize online shopping of custom-fit apparel. Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology PubDate: 2018-03-21T02:01:31Z DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-01-2017-0002
Pages: 195 - 209 Abstract: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Volume 30, Issue 2, Page 195-209, April 2018. Purpose Para-aramid fabrics see service in a great variety of applications, such as heavy weight lifting applications, penetration protective multilayer panels, etc. It is, therefore, increasingly important to understand the strain rate range at which the fabric has optimum mechanical properties. Although this is a field that has not been studied before, it is of great significance since it allows for the determination of the fabric’s layer location within the multilayered structure which offers maximum overall performance. The paper aims to discuss this issue. Design/methodology/approach Rectangular strips of PARAX 300 S8 woven para-aramid fabric underwent uniaxial tensile tests at various extension rates. The angle between two fibers at the center of each specimen was measured after the fabrics were elongated at different tensile extensions. This recovery angle was determined by visual analysis of the test video recordings after specimen unloading. Based on this, the recovery of the weaving form after unloading was also estimated for each tensile extension. A recovery degree based deformation characterization of the sections of a typical load/extension curve has been introduced. Findings The fabric does not appear to be strain rate sensitive for a strain rate range of 0.03 s-1 to 0.53 s-1, and its load/extension characteristics are generally not affected by the extension rate. However, break load and maximum elongation values appear reduced at actuator velocity of 2,400 mm/min and enhanced at 3,600 mm/min. Finally, the effect of extension rate on the different deformation zones of the material is reported and discussed. Originality/value The current research work offers a novel approach for the investigation of non-standard response of woven para-aramid fabrics when subjected to tensile loading under various strain rates. Additionally, a new approach is introduced to explain in detail the deformation zones based on the recovery degree of the fiber orientation angle after unloading. Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology PubDate: 2018-04-10T02:28:36Z DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-12-2016-0134
Pages: 210 - 221 Abstract: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Volume 30, Issue 2, Page 210-221, April 2018. Purpose The purpose of this paper is to develop a new objective evaluation method of fabric pilling using data-driven visual attention model. Design/methodology/approach First, the multi-scale filtering images are formed by Gaussian pyramid decomposition. Second, center-surround differences algorithm is used between multi-scale filtering images to build saliency map. On this basis, the pilling information is segmented from saliency map by the segmentation threshold. Finally, the pilling is objectively evaluated by extracting pilling feature. Experimental result shows that compared with the traditional detection methods, the proposed objective evaluation method has strong anti-interference ability, and correct classification rate (CCR) is 96 percent. Findings Fabric pilling saliency can be effectively improved by data-driven visual attention model, which will lead to stronger anti-interference ability and higher correct classification rate. Originality/value To void uneven illumination, noise, and texture interference, the proposed method can enhance the saliency of small targets in saliency map using a bottom-up visual attention model. Through the threshold segmentation according to pilling feature, the pilling information is effectively from the fabric texture. Pilling feature about pilling area density is extracted to pilling grade evaluation. Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology PubDate: 2018-04-19T11:41:44Z DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-04-2017-0042
Pages: 222 - 234 Abstract: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Volume 30, Issue 2, Page 222-234, April 2018. Purpose The purpose of this paper is to understand people’s preferred design and functional features for mosquito-bite protective clothing. Design/methodology/approach Total 348 participants were asked through an online survey about their perceptions and behaviors related to mosquito bite prevention, preferred design and functional features for clothing, preferred design and functional features for smart clothing, preferred types of transferred data, and their demographic backgrounds. A series of t-tests and analyses of variance were computed using IBM’s SPSS 24.0. Findings There were significant differences in functional and design preferences among participants (p Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology PubDate: 2018-04-18T02:39:07Z DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-06-2017-0081
Pages: 235 - 245 Abstract: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Volume 30, Issue 2, Page 235-245, April 2018. Purpose The purpose of this paper is to present a laboratory-based test method to evaluate colourfastness of silk fabrics when perfumes are applied on it. Design/methodology/approach Three different simple methods like simple spray method, rubbing and perspirometer were used. In simple spray method, standard quantity was sprayed from constant distance. In rubbing fastness tester, perfume sprayed fabric was subjected to rubbing. Similarly, perfume sprayed fabric was kept in perspirometer similar to perspiration fastness testing method. As a new method, perfume applied fabric was again treated with perspiration solution and colour change and staining were observed. Findings On comparing the different methods, it is suggested that method using fabric applied with both perfume and perspiration solution kept in perspirometer will simulate actual wearing condition and will give the actual effect of Perfume on fabric colour. Originality/value So far, no standard method is available. Hence, this test method will enable fabric manufacturers, perfume manufacturers and customers to be aware of effect of perfumes on fabric colour and aesthetics. Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology PubDate: 2018-04-10T02:26:36Z DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-06-2017-0075
Pages: 246 - 267 Abstract: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Volume 30, Issue 2, Page 246-267, April 2018. Purpose The purpose of this paper is to provide the details of developments to research works in the distribution characteristics of the air gaps within firefighters’ clothing and research methods to evaluate the effect of air gaps on the thermal protective performance of firefighters’ clothing. Design/methodology/approach In this paper, the distribution of air gaps within firefighters’ clothing was first analyzed, and the air gaps characteristics were summarized as thickness, location, heterogeneity, orientation and dynamics. Then, the evaluation of the air gap on the thermal protective performance of fighters’ clothing was reviewed for both experimental and numerical studies. Findings The air gaps within clothing layers and between clothing and skin play an important role in determining the thermal protective performance of firefighters’ protective clothing. It is obvious that research works on the effects of actual air gaps entrapped in firefighters’ clothing on thermal protection are comparatively few in number, primarily focusing on static and uniform air gaps at the fabric level. Further studies should be conducted to define the characteristic of air gap, deepen the understand of mechanism of heat transfer and numerically simulate the 3D dynamic heat transfer in clothing to improve the evaluation of thermal protective performance provided by the firefighters’ clothing. Practical implications Air gaps within thermal protective clothing play a crucial role in the protective performance of clothing and provide an efficient way to provide fire-fighting occupational safety. To accurately characterize the distribution of air gaps in firefighters’ clothing under high heat exposure, the paper will provide guidelines for clothing engineers to design clothing for fighters and optimize the clothing performance. Originality/value This paper is offered as a concise reference for researchers’ further research in the area of the effect of air gaps within firefighters’ clothing under thermal exposure. Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology PubDate: 2018-03-26T10:25:18Z DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-07-2017-0103
Pages: 268 - 283 Abstract: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Volume 30, Issue 2, Page 268-283, April 2018. Purpose The purpose of this paper is to mathematically model the structure of doubled fancy yarns made by combining together several threads. Design/methodology/approach It was assumed that such a structure may have two distinctive parts – sinusoidal and helical (i.e. sigmoidal). This model is based on calculating the length of the effect thread in relation to the core thread. The case of having several variants of such a structure was discussed to account for several types of doubled fancy yarns. The number of wraps of the binder, the overfed ratio, and heights of the fancy profiles in the different parts were the fundamental parameters of this model. The effects of changes in the number of wraps, the overfeed ratio or both simultaneously, on this model, were also considered. The shape factor of fancy yarn was also modelled depending on the basic model of the structure. Findings The model was tested and the correlation coefficient between the theoretical value and the real value of length of the effect thread was 0.90. Originality/value This model is useful for predicting the length of the effect component based on the type, dimension and number of the fancy profiles of doubled fancy yarn, and for understanding the changes of the multiple-thread structure of fancy yarn when the overfeed ratio and/or the number of wraps were to change. Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology PubDate: 2018-04-10T02:24:34Z DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-05-2017-0063
Abstract: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Ahead of Print. Purpose The automatic body measurement is the key of tailoring, mass customization and fit/ease evaluation. The major challenges include finding the landmarks and extracting the sizes accurately. The purpose of this paper is to propose a new method of body measurement based on the loop structure. Design/methodology/approach The scanned human model is sliced equally to layers consist of various shapes of loops. The semantic feature analysis has been regarded as a problem of finding the points of interest (POI) and the loop of interest (LOI) according to the types of loop connections. Methods for determining the basic landmarks have been detailed. Findings The experimental results validate that the proposed methods can be used to locate the landmarks and to extract sizes on markless human scans robustly and efficiently. Originality/value With the method, the body measurement can be quickly performed with average errors around 0.5 cm. The results of segmentation, landmarking and body measurements also validate the robustness and efficiency of the proposed methods. Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology PubDate: 2018-04-30T10:13:57Z DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-06-2017-0086
Abstract: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Ahead of Print. Purpose The purpose of this paper is to bridge the gap between human emotions and wearable technologies for interactive fashion innovation. To consider the reasons why smart clothing should satisfy the internet of things (IoT) technical functions and human emotional expression simultaneously, to investigate the manner in which artistic design perspectives and engineering methods combined effectively, to explore the R&D elements of future smart clothing based on the IoT technology. Design/methodology/approach This study combines artistic design perspectives with information-sensing engineering methods as well as kansei evaluation method. Micro-sensors and light-emitting diodes (LEDs) embedded in couples clothing prototype. The first experiment step in the design and production of prototype clothing, and do the initial emotional evaluation. The second experiment is the comparative evaluation of the prototype and other typical smart clothing. Findings The interactive clothing prototype was proven to correlate well with human emotional expressive patterns. The evaluation I indicated the prototype can stimulate the emotional response of the participants to achieve a higher score in the activate sensor state. Evaluation II revealed that in the process of interactive clothing design, the technical functionality should synchronize with the requirements of human emotional expression. Originality/value This study builds the research and development theoretical model of interactive clothing that can be integrated into daily smart clothing life design, and analyze the methods and means of blending IoT smart information-sensing technology with emotional design. By means of this experimental demonstration of human-centered interactive clothing design, the authors provide smart clothing 3.0 evolutionary roadmap and propose a new concept of internet of clothes (IoC) for further research reference. Citation: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology PubDate: 2018-04-26T03:25:35Z DOI: 10.1108/IJCST-09-2017-0152
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